I totally understood your pleasure when you said it has torx screws, I was helping my uncle build a deck and we secured all the decking down the torx screws, using impact drivers and drills with torx screws is such a joy, ever since we built that deck back in 2013 i only use torx when possible, I also ride bikes and everything on the bike is torx, I love Robertson, don’t mind Philips (for electronics), hate slotted and adore torx.
Torx and Robertson would have been the default type today, except that Henry Ford didn't want to spend anything extra for the licensing, and went with philips. As if being a fascist wasn't bad enough eh.
Sometimes when you are looking for bad solder connections, it helps to change to a dimmer light source, or one with a bluer light spectrum, or shining the light on the board from off to the side, less direct and with less glare. I have found bad soldering that way which I missed in the first go-around with brighter, more direct light.
Great video, Dave, yeah, was given one from a friend recently, he says it works, but when I checked it out, all I got was the sound of crickets!!, lol 😆, so now will be doing some troubleshooting on it !
I fixed a KSW-10 version of this unit which looks nearly identical. Mine had multiple bad caps, a couple zener diodes, and one of the large resistors go bad. All were either in or nearby the power regulators. That area gets so hot that the components fail prematurely. You can see the circuit board is discolored from all the heat. This was not a reliable design. czcams.com/video/gRgr2R06l44/video.html And czcams.com/video/7EulVW4b5Ic/video.html
I Bought A CanonSX110 Digital Camera Everything Works On It Except Wen I Put The Button cell Battery That Allows It To Keep The Date & Time It Still Dont Keep The Date & Time. So I Think It's The Memory Chip.
I have a KSW-12 and I absolutely hate it. It sounds absolutely terrible to me. One thing, does your KW-100 happen to have a typo in the French warning label that says “electronic shock” in French? My KSW-12 does. It uses the word “electronique” instead of “electrique.”
By “your”, I often mean, “featured in your video.” I hope the customer was happy. Funnily enough, I had a similar problem with the fuse on my Klipsch as well. In my case, the tabs holding the fuse holder in place (that you bent into shape) had completely broken off! I had to solder an entirely new fuse holder on. The correct part was hard to find, but I found a similar looking compatible one. This must be a common issue, and now, if I ever run into trouble with the sound cutting out, I will check the solder joints on the PCB.
I fixed a KSW-10 version of this unit which looks nearly identical. Mine had multiple bad caps, a couple zener diodes, and one of the large resistors go bad. All were either in or nearby the power regulators. That area gets so hot that the components fail prematurely. You can see the circuit board is discolored from all the heat. This was not a reliable design. czcams.com/video/gRgr2R06l44/video.html And czcams.com/video/7EulVW4b5Ic/video.html
Hello can you help me diagnose my Denon Av Receiver ? My son was playing video games and all of a sudden there’s a loud clacking noise coming from the surround speakers when there’s a loud scene like cars racing there clackle and goes away at lower volumes . I tried another set of speakers with higher watts and it still does it, so I’m sure it’s not that the speakers are blown . Am I screwed here ? I can send you a video to your email ? Please help . I’ve looked on you tube but none seem to have the issue like mine .
They are all expensive. Huge and i mean astronomical mark up on speakers. Dealer cost on a pair of Altec lansing I have was 300.00 and the retail was 2000.00. A little pair of psb I have that sold for 499 cost me under 100.00
I had a Klipsch KSW-12 sub for years. Cheap and deep, but not particularly accurate. Flabby. The toilet paper tube connected to the tuned port eventually just fell off. I finally replaced it with a sealed Andrew Jones designed 10" sub from Pioneer. Night and day. Doesn't play as deep on paper, but in practice sounds deeper and richer and it's lightning fast. You get what you pay for with these cheap Klipsch speakers. Not that the Pioneer was particularly expensive.
Yeah, I have the same Klipsch, and I wouldn’t even call it deep. It just sounds like tones, and the kick drums sound like bvvv. I also have a Paradigm PDR-10 subwoofer. It isn’t nearly as loud, (in fact, it clips stupidly easily.) but it feels like it goes deeper and more accurate, at least when foam surround on the cone is intact. I’ve had to replace a few. One question, what is a modern low-priced subwoofer sold today that sounds better than my Klipsch? I don’t need volume, I just want something that is very deep and accurate. (Even though it doesn’t get loud, I much prefer the Paradigm. I’m kind of looking for something like that. Should I just grab another PDR-10 second-hand?)
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Not sure. The Pioneer isn't available anymore, sadly. SVS has a good reputation these days. I'd avoid ported subs - sealed subs tend to be much faster, and in this era of digital amps, power isn't such a problem anymore.
What's the problem with it? It looks like a typical consumer electronics product to me. I doubt anyone paid high-end prices for it, so ... yeah, it is what it is. Functional, no-frills, as inexpensive as possible while still doing what it claims to do.
I totally understood your pleasure when you said it has torx screws, I was helping my uncle build a deck and we secured all the decking down the torx screws, using impact drivers and drills with torx screws is such a joy, ever since we built that deck back in 2013 i only use torx when possible, I also ride bikes and everything on the bike is torx, I love Robertson, don’t mind Philips (for electronics), hate slotted and adore torx.
Torx and Robertson would have been the default type today, except that Henry Ford didn't want to spend anything extra for the licensing, and went with philips. As if being a fascist wasn't bad enough eh.
I own the 15" model..I love it, hopefully this will give me some insight into the inner works
Love your work time, you explane it so well
Sometimes when you are looking for bad solder connections, it helps to change to a dimmer light source, or one with a bluer light spectrum, or shining the light on the board from off to the side, less direct and with less glare. I have found bad soldering that way which I missed in the first go-around with brighter, more direct light.
Great video, Dave, yeah, was given one from a friend recently, he says it works, but when I checked it out, all I got was the sound of crickets!!, lol 😆, so now will be doing some troubleshooting on it !
I fixed a KSW-10 version of this unit which looks nearly identical. Mine had multiple bad caps, a couple zener diodes, and one of the large resistors go bad. All were either in or nearby the power regulators. That area gets so hot that the components fail prematurely. You can see the circuit board is discolored from all the heat. This was not a reliable design. czcams.com/video/gRgr2R06l44/video.html
And czcams.com/video/7EulVW4b5Ic/video.html
I really love doing such experience as I was born for doing it🤠
Hi, thanks for that info. I have the same subwoofer with the same problem.
And I was able to fix it by watching your video Thank you 👍 👍.
A hot air station will reflow all of this connection in a jiffy you should consider investing on one
Nice save!
nice fix!
Good Fix!
I Bought A CanonSX110 Digital Camera
Everything Works On It Except Wen
I Put The Button cell Battery That
Allows It To Keep The Date & Time
It Still Dont Keep The Date & Time.
So I Think It's The Memory Chip.
I have a KSW-12 and I absolutely hate it. It sounds absolutely terrible to me. One thing, does your KW-100 happen to have a typo in the French warning label that says “electronic shock” in French? My KSW-12 does. It uses the word “electronique” instead of “electrique.”
This was a customer's set and it has already been picked up as has the turntable which the video hasn't been posted yet.
By “your”, I often mean, “featured in your video.” I hope the customer was happy.
Funnily enough, I had a similar problem with the fuse on my Klipsch as well. In my case, the tabs holding the fuse holder in place (that you bent into shape) had completely broken off! I had to solder an entirely new fuse holder on. The correct part was hard to find, but I found a similar looking compatible one. This must be a common issue, and now, if I ever run into trouble with the sound cutting out, I will check the solder joints on the PCB.
So Klipsch, "high end" American audio manufacturer, delivers products made in China with shoddy soldering and Suscon caps. Good to know.
Klipsch makes some good stuff. Your just not going to find it at Best Buy.
@@stevedawson5844 They do not make competent subwoofers and they never did.
I fixed a KSW-10 version of this unit which looks nearly identical. Mine had multiple bad caps, a couple zener diodes, and one of the large resistors go bad. All were either in or nearby the power regulators. That area gets so hot that the components fail prematurely. You can see the circuit board is discolored from all the heat. This was not a reliable design. czcams.com/video/gRgr2R06l44/video.html
And czcams.com/video/7EulVW4b5Ic/video.html
Hello can you help me diagnose my Denon Av Receiver ? My son was playing video games and all of a sudden there’s a loud clacking noise coming from the surround speakers when there’s a loud scene like cars racing there clackle and goes away at lower volumes . I tried another set of speakers with higher watts and it still does it, so I’m sure it’s not that the speakers are blown . Am I screwed here ? I can send you a video to your email ? Please help . I’ve looked on you tube but none seem to have the issue like mine .
Couldn't tell you from a description or a video.
Isn't that an expensive speaker brand? Klipschorn? (sp?)
They are all expensive. Huge and i mean astronomical mark up on speakers. Dealer cost on a pair of Altec lansing I have was 300.00 and the retail was 2000.00. A little pair of psb I have that sold for 499 cost me under 100.00
I had a Klipsch KSW-12 sub for years. Cheap and deep, but not particularly accurate. Flabby. The toilet paper tube connected to the tuned port eventually just fell off. I finally replaced it with a sealed Andrew Jones designed 10" sub from Pioneer. Night and day. Doesn't play as deep on paper, but in practice sounds deeper and richer and it's lightning fast.
You get what you pay for with these cheap Klipsch speakers. Not that the Pioneer was particularly expensive.
Yeah, I have the same Klipsch, and I wouldn’t even call it deep. It just sounds like tones, and the kick drums sound like bvvv. I also have a Paradigm PDR-10 subwoofer. It isn’t nearly as loud, (in fact, it clips stupidly easily.) but it feels like it goes deeper and more accurate, at least when foam surround on the cone is intact. I’ve had to replace a few.
One question, what is a modern low-priced subwoofer sold today that sounds better than my Klipsch? I don’t need volume, I just want something that is very deep and accurate. (Even though it doesn’t get loud, I much prefer the Paradigm. I’m kind of looking for something like that. Should I just grab another PDR-10 second-hand?)
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Not sure. The Pioneer isn't available anymore, sadly. SVS has a good reputation these days. I'd avoid ported subs - sealed subs tend to be much faster, and in this era of digital amps, power isn't such a problem anymore.
Klipsch makes excellent speakers .
@@kelleyhagan960 I guess. Never cared for the sound of horn drivers myself, even expensive ones.
But they also make some cheap garbage.
Lol. Sub and accurate? No, you put in a sub to just destroy the sound. Invest in real speakers.
easy fix...STOP making them in CHINA Klipsch
omg the inside is cheap garbage amp
You expected something else. You need to lower your standards.
What's the problem with it? It looks like a typical consumer electronics product to me. I doubt anyone paid high-end prices for it, so ... yeah, it is what it is. Functional, no-frills, as inexpensive as possible while still doing what it claims to do.