CORROSEAL Rust Converter - Does it Hold Up On Its Own? Tests and Results! 4 year review! Stop Rust?
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- čas přidán 15. 10. 2020
- Test and 4 year results of Corroseal Rust Converter. I have used Corroseal many times over the last 4 years. Lets see how it has held up! Lets also perform a corrosion test right now and see how it holds up on its own!
In the first half of this video, I test how it holds up on its own, just to see what it can do.
Corroseal is a primer and intended to be painted over to protect it. In the second half of this video, I show some steel that I have applied Corroseal to, then painted, in the past. I have painted over it many times in many different applications including vehicle frame, brake drums, weld beads on new body panels, and steel pipe. In my experience, the rust bubbles back through from under the paint. It does not appear to neutralized the rust as advertised.
UPDATE:
New 7 Month Vehicle Frame Test Video:
Clear Paint, to see if Corroseal is holding up under the paint!
• CORROSEAL Rust Convert...
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This kind of review is extremely helpful for us DIYers who want to know what products actually work. Thank you so much for posting this!
Thank you very much! I’m glad you found it helpful!
I think if you paint the metal with a thin layer of tar at a time while the metal is hot, I think that should work? I'm not sure
I had a hideous rusty truck bed tool box. I wire brushed the rust. I sanded the good paint. I applied 2 coats of corroseal to the rust. I spray painted entire tool box with 2 wet coats the next day. The adhesion on the corroseal was excellent. The tool box looks excellent 3 years later.
Awesome! Glad it has worked well!
Thanks for sharing the results.
No problem!
Thanks for posting, I really appreciate the level of detail you went into here
Excellent video with good information 🏴
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Can’t wait to buy this stuff thanks for sharing your positive experiences
Glad you found it helpful!
In my personal experience, it has worked fine on metal surfaces with no rust (in which case the product is not really needed). On surfaces with rust, and on new welds, the rust came back through the paint.
What was positive about the product.or are you watching a different video.lol
Hello! In this video, the intention of the test was to show how Corroseal holds up on its own. I have received several comments, and am well aware, that Corroseal is a primer, and should have a top coat of paint.
I am currently running a test over the winter. I have applied Corroseal to half of a rusty bar, and Corroseal plus a topcoat of paint to the other half of a rusty bar. The bar is zip-tied under my car for the winter. I will post the results video in the spring!
UPDATE:
New 7 Month Vehicle Frame Test Video:
Clear Paint, to see if Corroseal is holding up under the paint!
czcams.com/video/pHeHN5h4l6I/video.html
Thanks for the video, I believe all kind of rust conversion is for preparing the surface before Zn-coating, and paint it. I believe 3 steps is necessary. 1. rust conversion, 2. Zn-coating, 3. paint it.
@PA2060 is illegal Thanks for the suggestion. I have not tried those products. I appreciate it.
Please test with an undercoat.
@@andrewc9790 thanks for reminding me about this!
@@andrewc9790 I retrieved the test bar from underneath the vehicle today. I will post the results video soon. Maybe this weekend.
I have also tried several tests with products on my vehicles. The rust converter I've used is from Loctite. I have had admiral results with it over many years. I own a 1978 F 250 4x4, which I purchased new. I've used this process on the front fenders in the wear areas from long ago fender flare wear lines. To this day I have no rust on these fenders where I used this process. But I did coat with paint after the Loctite rust converter was applied. My truck is used in the winter with salt on the roads and has never been in a garage. It's 43 yrs old now and I'm happy it still is in nice condition. However ! , I am currently on my 3 truck bed. Each lasted about 20 years. Good luck and thanks for your info.
Thanks. I will check it out.
Thank you for the review.
Good vid
Glad you found it helpful!
I also have had the same experience as you ,rust comes right back no matter how many coats or how much prep! I am in Western Pa where road salt and brine are put down so heavy you can hear your frame rusting on a good night! I have had just as good of luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer as anything I ve ever used.If you put it on heavy and brush it in it does help slow rust down . I now use a product from Berkebile Oil Company in Somerset,Pa.It is called PFC ,(Protection First Class),it is a blend of Lanolin Based ,Rock Wool type product .Their salesman showed me tests of their frames on the sales fleets vehicles and I was impressed . I think you would like it.I spray my pinch welds and rockers and my frame . It creeps nicely and seems to stay on better than fluid films. I saw tests on the WD 40 product you are going to try also . You can get a gallon of PFC and a spray gun package for around 100 bucks.I am going to go that route.I have used over a dozen cans and love it .The small cans cost adds up quickly .
I’m pretty much done with rust converters. None of them seem to work. Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched. czcams.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/video.html
Once the rust begins, there is no stopping it. You can slow it, but it’s a loosing battle.
Here is another product that you may be interested in. I have not personally used it, but it’s currently at the top of my list if I try a product like that.
Cosmoline RP-342
amzn.to/3UF0rQ4
This year, I just sprayed Rustoleum truck bed liner on the underbody of all my vehicles for the winter.
From my understanding you are NOT supposed to remove the rust on the metal being the Corroseal reacts with the rust and creates the barrier with the rust acting as the catylist to some degree. Sanding things down to bare metal defeated your purpose. Protecting bare metal is not what Corroseal was made to do.
Yes. I have heard that, makes sense
The rust converter is not intended to be a top coating it's intended to be a primer. You need to topcoat it with paint to seal it.
Thanks for the comment! I agree that a top coat is required to stop new rust from forming as a result of the metal surface being exposed.
In the real application to outdoor pipe, vehicle frames, vehicle brake drums, vehicle body panels, and weld seams for new body panels, I did indeed apply Corroseal, then a top coat of paint. Either Rustolum oil based paint (which I have found to hold up the best) or automotive spray paint.
I experienced rust bubbling back through, from under the paint, implying that the rust was not converted and continued to grow. I know this is true for body panels. The paint absolutely did not wear off, exposing bare metal. The rust came back from under the paint.
I am performing a more practical test over the winter. Corroseal + paint. I will post the results in the spring!
For my application, full frame, painted after I put it on the frame - it's all perfect. I used a two component industrial primer on top of it.
Thanks for your review. You just saved me some $.
I’m happy to hear that this was helpful! I have more planned in the future!
Very helpful. Your stated intent was to show how this stuff holds up on its own- and that’s exactly what you did as far as I can see. The manufacturer says in it’s advertising that
“ Corroseal Rust Converter converts rust (iron oxide) into a stable substance, magnetite. It also primes the surface with a high quality latex metal primer at the same time. Corroseal truly provides one step corrosion control” .
I for one have been curious just how that claim held up and you answered that. Certainly additional coatings, preservers, or different methods might improve finish longevity but that wasn’t what you were testing. Keep the realistic and honest testing coming, I certainly appreciate it
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Well.
Scratch another "wonder" product for my old truck frame.
Thanks for the review.
It definitely has a lot of great reviews, which is why I tried it. But, there are negative reviews as well, and it has not worked well for me.
I would use it to coat some pipe or something outside, but I would definitely not trust it to restore my entire rusty vehicle frame. I would anticipate rust coming back in a year. But, that’s just my experience.
Look up Qurox (if you can find) it's amazing stuff. Had a shop putting in an engine and when the dropped the frame we noticed a section that could use a touch up. This stuff took a power washer and New England salt directly and no rust has formed on the Qurox.
thanks buddy very helpful.
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Excellent video thanks
Happy you found it helpful!
THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP!!! Almost bought a gallon😮 I’m trying to compare this with POR 15, I’ve used previously on a wheel well. I’ll stick with that
Maybe this stuff them por15 over it ?
Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched comparing rust converters. czcams.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/video.html
Fighting rust seems to be a losing battle. I’m pretty much done with trying, and reviewing rust converters. This year, I just sprayed Rustoleum truck bed liner on the underbody of all my vehicles for the winter.
Thanks for your review… you just save me from lots of hours of elbow grease.
Well done... Thanks...
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.
I’m interested in the video thanks for making it I was actually going to try this it was between this and the Skyzone osphos or something like that the green bottle I’m gonna try that and I’ll let you know
I've used Corroseal& follow directions,it works fine.Northeast salt belt.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for the content. I'm sure many of us appreciate when someone does the testing and review the product for us so we can see how it works. That's actually why I clicked on it, right? So please don't take my next part of the comment as me boo booing your video. However, I have purchased CORROSEAL before and let it sit for a very long time without using it or maybe dipped my brush into it and contaminated it and it turned into a more liquid and not as white substance. I noticed immediately in your video that the product you were applying looked a lot like mine once it was no longer good. Just wanted to point that out for the sake of the experiment because when CORROSEAL is in good condition, the consistency is almost like Elmer's Glue, and with that being said, it may be that the product was not able to perform as intended in this testing.
Thank you
Did you try applying a top coat like the instructions say? It's my understanding that rust converters, convert rust but do not stop new rust from forming thus the need for a top coat.
Thanks for the comment! I agree that a top coat is required to stop new rust from forming as a result of the metal surface being exposed.
In the real application to outdoor pipe, vehicle frames, vehicle brake drums, vehicle body panels, and weld seams for new body panels, I did indeed apply Corroseal, then a top coat of paint. Either Rustolum oil based paint (which I have found to hold up the best) or automotive spray paint.
I experienced rust bubbling back through, from under the paint, implying that the rust was not converted and continued to grow. I know this is true for body panels. The paint absolutely did not wear off, exposing bare metal. The rust came back from under the paint.
I am performing a more practical test over the winter. Corroseal + paint. I will post the results in the spring!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial After Corroseal don't use paint on the frame, use a rust inhibiting coating like CRC Corrosion Inhibitor as tested by Project Farm here: czcams.com/video/lyWHF4NoNVk/video.html
5 days ago, I finished applying 2-3 coats of Corroseal to my frame. I had previously knocked off as much rust as possible, and sanded the frame. Some spots were shiny metal, but most still had rust. The Corroseal turned black, just like the instructions said it would. 2 days after, I sprayed painted the entire frame with POR-15 Top Coat. It's been raining here for about 4 days straight, and I brought the truck in to work on another part. I was shocked to see that the entire frame has what looks like brown dots of rust. I was able to wipe it away, as it was still wet. Wet, mostly from condensation. The rain is not directly coming down on the frame. It only took 5 days for the rust start showing up. I don't think this stuff works at all.
Wow! Sorry to hear that, but thanks for sharing! I personally need to coat the bottom of a vehicle very soon before winter rolls in. I have not yet decided which product I am going to use.
Went to Chassis saver after derust with wire wheel and clean .
Hey I think it should only be used on tight surface rust if your not going to take down to fresh clean metal. You usually clean and prime metal with a etching agent prior to priming or painting.
Thanks for letting see the results. Did you try anything that worked, por 15 maybe? What would stop control arm rust on an Impala people? Ah the north... Nice summers to (try to)fix the winters rust.
Lol! “ Nice summers to (try to) fix the winter‘s rust.”
I’ve heard good things about poor 15 online, but only personally know one person who has actually used it. He painted a jeep wrangler frame with it. He said it was junk and it didn’t even hold up for a year.
I have also heard great things about cosmoline rp-342 online, but have no personal experience with it.
I tried a couple Rustoleum products on the bottom of my vehicle over the winter. I applied them last summer, and will do a review video soon showing how they held up over the year. I honestly don’t know the results. The last time I looked under there was during the winter.
Good test review. I believe Corroseal will work well in Southern states that don't use salt or chemicals on the roads on an annual basis.
Great point!
Brother I think your issues here, as I witnessed when you did the extensive testing on the flat bar, is that you likely spray on top of the corroseal before it is completely dry. When you did the rust over clean and rust over corroseal tests, it's evident that there were areas of the corroseal coating that were still globbed up and wet. Wait for the stuff to fully dry out, and absolutely use a top coat.
Thanks for sharing! I definitely recommend a top coat.
He needs to read the instructions it’s not for body work especially where a seam is that moisture can get behind and supposed to put more than one coat and let it dry before painting
Thx man --- no one on you tube did this - make more using different products like rustrolem
Thanks. I am planning a video comparing multiple coatings. It see it being a long term project though. I’m planning to let them perform over time instead of forced corrosion with chemicals.
I did another Corroseal test over the winter. I hope to make a results video soon.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I Think I would rather see the force corrosion because there are already lots of other videos on rust control through natural means
@@gregl2249 God point. I appreciate it. Thanks
You just depressed the shit out of me. I have corraseal and was about to do my whole truck with it and then paint it with oil based tractor supply paint. Looks like that won't do either. Thanks for the vid man.
I’ve painted vehicle bodies with tractor paint, and the results were good.
If the frame is already rusty, I would personally use Fluid Film or something like that.
Here is another Corroseal video that I made a year later.
czcams.com/video/pHeHN5h4l6I/video.html
Here is a pretty good video that I recently watched comparing rust converters. czcams.com/video/tu1n1POMg98/video.html
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial thank you bud!!
After using the corroseal let dry and coat it with epoxy primer (primer with harder added). I’ve had good luck with that. If it’s a frame op coat with por 15 or equal.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate it! I actually do plan on doing a frame off in the next couple years. That’s the plan anyway...
Thank you so much for sharing. The video is extremely helpful. May I ask you where do you live? Near a sea side? Do leave your car outside for the winter or do you store it keep it outside? Is it humid where you live (lots of rain? )
Thanks. I live in the north east, near the Great Lakes. There is no severe humidity or any ocean salt. Just cold in the winter and the roads are salted all winter to combat snow and ice. The winter road salt destroys vehicles.
The silver car in the video pretty much lives outdoors year round.
Probably fluid film would do the same job. It would take less time to apply though. I live in the uk, extreme humidity. so I am looking for something that would work. Found 2 products that I want to test Hammarite No.1 Rust beater (3 coats as suggested and Neutrarust 661 + a coat on to it. I see how it goes. P.S. Thought that you might be storing the car in a home garage, then it would corrode, because when the car is wet and you take it to closed space, the humidity eats the metal, as it has no way to go away. So one should put their car into a garage when their car dries out. @@HowtoandReviewsOfficial
@@karlrod4699 Great information. Thanks for sharing!
I spent some time in the UK a few years ago and really enjoyed it!
Another viewer recommended “Cosmoline RP-342 Heavy Rust Preventative Spray“ which looks very promising. You may want to take a look at it.
To use correctly, those latex/phosporic acid rust converters are only used to wirebrushed or sandblasted, clean-looking metal to prevent small pits of rust starting to grow. Even then, the metal must not be rusted through at all, or else the rust gets oxygen that way. For example, a lightly rusted car surface should be cleaned to look rust free, then the converter applied and allowed to dry completely, cleaned again to bare metal, primered with rust preventing primer, and painted. On the inside/other side, rust preventing spray applied to prevent possible rust pores that go through the sheetmetal to allow oxygen go through. Any rust that has formed layers is not treatable with converters, only way to slow that rust down is to thin atf with solvent, soak the area inside and out, and after few days, use rustproofing spray to form an oily/wax-like surface to prevent the atf from being washed away. And that only slows the rusting process down for some time. "Rust never sleeps..."
Thanks for the input! Very good information.
Corroseal claims that it can be applied to a rusty surface with no sand blasting required. In my experience, that is not true. But if you grind down to clean metal, there is no need for a converter.
I have applied it to rust free metal, before paint, as an extra precaution, but that’s not it’s purpose.
Anyway, thanks for sharing. I completely agree.
Does anyone bother to research this product... IT IS APPLIED TO RUSTED STEEL NOT CLEANED STEEL. Corroseal is used in the trucking industry, we use it on all our trucks. When the truck frames start to bubble up and the paint is flecking, factory paint only holds up 2-4 yrs on frames.
I don't know what you are doing, it's probably the fact that you keep cleaning the metal which implies that you are fucking it up and blaming the product.
We remove the heavy scale and that's it, corroseal the frame, and then paint the frames with semi truck chassis paint, we do not experience the reoccurring rust that you are year to year.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I use a rust converter gel to remove both rust and mill scale. I have had great results making sure the metal is clean of rust flakes and apply it and keep it wet with either the liquid or a bit of water. Using a good heavy britsle bush works well and a paintbrush to smooth over the gel. Then i clean off any excess. With the krud cutter you are left with a surface you can paint but you'd have to rough it up pre treatment for best adhesion results. I use it on anything i intend to paint or keep nice. A light coating of fluid film once the paint dries and you've created a surface with multi level protection. Using a self etching glavanizing primer also helps. When the phosphoric acid gel turns the surface black it has simply sealed in the rust along with any humidity that was present. I am always wary of the black coating as i have scraped it off with ease using a paint scraper. It often takes much of the the rust with it when you do. After scraping it off ill treat again if necessary. Dont be afraid to brush the surface as its working. Youll have less left behind to worry about
спасибо! хорошее видео.
Use Hammerite paint on top of the CORROSEAL treated surfaces, it works for me.
Sounds great. Thanks for the input!
Corroseal is used on semi truck frames and trailers, if it is good enough for an industry that operates in all weather conditions, it's more than good for DIYers
Works the product good when the are to steel plates together too, fore exsample doorpanels
If you top-coated that with a quality paint underneath and some fluid film on top it would look like new.
Have you found a better solution? I just used Ospho to remove and convert my rust after using a grinding wheel. I'm considering covering it with Cosmoline RP-342 Black Rust Preventive Spray (Military-Grade).
I just used up my Corroseal last fall because I already owned a big jug of it.
I have read a lot of great things about cosmoline rp-342, and it has been recommended to me many times. It is at the top of my list to try next.
Thanks for your thorough video. I agree with your own assessment of Corroseal, after using it and having it fail spectacularly.
About 3 years ago I started making original light fixtures as a side gig / hobby, many out of rusted scrap steel. Any parts requiring new steel were rusted intentionally by using a vinegar / peroxide mix, so that they matched the others. I was looking for a rustic black finish, like old wrought iron. I therefore removed all loose rust, and after much research, decided on Corroseal as a rust converter/primer, topped with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum 2x matte black paint. All were applied according to manufacturer recommendations with regard to time, temperature, etc.
I did notice early on that the Corroseal seemed to chip fairly easily, as I had to recoat a couple of tiny spots where I accidentally tapped it with a tool etc while working on the fixtures. I should have thought more about that when it happened, but the product had such a good reputation etc that I figured I would be okay.
Around the same time I made a fixture using similar techniques, but wanted the final finish to be rusty. I therefore removed all the loose surface rust and simply used 4 coats of the Rust-Oleum 2x matte clear coat. In other words, the same paint as the black, except in clear.
Life has been kind of tough over the last two years, so I didn't really push to sell those completed fixtures. It turns out that was fortunate.
About a month ago I sold my house and moved. When I did, I took a moment to admire my fixtures, which had been carefully sitting in boxes, in a fully air conditioned occupied house. To my dismay, EVERY single surface on which Corroseal had been used was covered in tiny dots of powdery rust breaking through the finish. They were not related to any previous chips or other damage, but were everywhere.
I then looked at a test sample of steel which I had used for activating rust. After determining the best method for making them rust, I had prepped them and coated them in the exact same manner as the black fixtures. All pieces of the sample steel were rusted just as the fixtures were.
After that I examined the intentionally rust-finish fixture, the one which only had 4 coats of Rust-Oleum clear coat on it. No breakthrough rust was visible, but since the underlying surface itself was rust, I wanted to make sure. I rubbed it all over with a piece of white paper towel, then examined the towel for any trace of color. There was absolutely none. In spite of being covered in rust to start with, the Rust-Oleum clear coat alone had done its job, and the fixture looked exactly as it did when I finished it.
To put it mildly, I am extremely disappointed in Corroseal. I now face the tedious task of disassembling every fixture I made using this crap, stripping them down to bare metal, and completely refinishing them.
For me, Corroseal utterly failed in every way, and I will never use it again.
Thank for sharing your experience. Sorry things turned out that way.
I finally used up my 1 gallon jug and I will not be buying any more.
I have watched several other videos on Corroseal and we are not alone.
I’ve used Corroseal on several truck frames over the years. It must be coated. Enamel paint is lousy. I use 3M undercoating. Lats great.
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
I disagree, I've used corroseal for years on different applications. Used it on my truck and jeep frame. Used as per instruction, remove all flakey rust, degrease the rusty object. Use multiple coats if necessary, acts as a primer. And I usually paint over with some industrial paint, preferably glossy. Havent had an issue. Also dont put un used corroseal back in bottle it contaminates the product. And this is from Canada with our winters and salt...
Thanks for sharing your experience! I appreciate it! I read many great reviews for Corroseal, which is why I bought it.
I have tried it several ways, including wire wheeling the rust, then Corroseal, then paint, and the rust bubbles back through from under the paint.
I am happy to hear that you have great results. The product is worth trying. Unfortunately, it has not worked well for me.
I am performing a test over the winter. I will have a video up in the spring.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial did you degrease before applying?
@@ryansremark6983 No, not officially. I use rubbing alcohol after wire wheeling, but I do not use an official commercial degreaser. I will incorporate degreaser into the winter test, thanks for bringing it up!
Do you apply it onto metal that has surface rust, or do you grind it down to clean bare metal?
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial . I work on commercial workboats in a salt water environment. Been using Coroseal for 14 years with zero issues. You must follow the directions perfectly. You must leave a light coating of rust.....Coroseal does not like shiny clean metal. It needs rust to convert itself into a primer. I always do the Coroseal, then primer and topcoat with color. No issues at all. On your vehicle rust spots, you are better off trying Mastercoat Silver rust prevention sealer. THAT stuff is the bomb and is exactly what you are looking for. Coroseal is more for anything except an automotive paint surface situation.
@@shawnmann9491 Very helpful and appreciated; thanks for taking the time to write this.
About 95% of my Corroseal use has been automotive application. I’ve done Corroseal on rust + topcoat, Corroseal on rust + primer + topcoat. I have also used it on clean metal as a preventative/failsafe + primer and/or paint. The results have been mixed, and on the negative side. (I do not use Corroseal without a top coat. I was just testing how it holds up on its own, on a couple different surface, in this video.)
Strangely, it did very poorly on new welds. Lots of new body panels with rust coming through the paint on the weld beads.
I will definitely be trying the Mastercoat Silver.
Thanks again for your comment. It is helpful and appreciated.
Sand blast and epoxy sealer primer is your best bet
Thanks for the input! I agree, thanks!
Dude there’s a spooky skull face in the corroseal on clean portion.
I would believe once you use corroseal and it’s dry a topcoat of paint would protect the area better.
Thanks. I agree. It should definitely have a top coat. Just seeing how it holds up on its own in this video. But I did just post a 7 month test review video with a top coat.
What type of brush do you use to brush of the rust? Is it stainless steal or does it contain other metals. Some metals contaminate steal, like Nickel. Which is prone to rust.
Great point! I’ve used both. When grinding down to bare metal, it’s a carbon steel brush mounted on a drill. When not trying to expose all the way down to clean metal, to let the Corroseal neutralize the surface rust, stainless steel hand brush.
So the moral of the story is that rust always wins.
After you use the course seal, did you spray your frame down with the oil or any sort of undercoat?
Yes, I did. Rustoleum oil based paint.
amzn.to/3vyvB13
I did notice your tested metal was contaminated when you brushed it on left to right. You actually brushed the rust back on it.
Thanks for the input!
I was thinking the same.
When you weld metal, you have to sand it or send blast it and then etch it using acid etch primer or just acid treatment.
Perfect, thanks
Yes in SALTVILLE USA
Same, Corroseal only surface converts rust so it is useless under frame since it doesn't penetrate.
I've used this, its ok ish. It claims to be able to be left uncovered and will last up to a year before breakthrough but testing it I'm getting breakthrough in a couple of weeks even after 4 coats.
Yeah, I also think it definitely needs a top coat.
How about rust bullet? Any thoughts? I have a 2015 and looking for good protection.
Hi! I don’t have any experience with rust bullet, but I have added it to my list of things to test in the future. Thanks for the suggestion!
I have a friend who used POR-15 on a Jeep frame and said it was garbage a year later. I have not personally tried it though.
Another viewer recommended “Cosmoline RP-342 Heavy Rust Preventative Spray“ which looks very promising. You may want to take a look at it.
Try final coating with spray cosmoline
Thanks for the suggestion! I checked out Cosmoline spray, iand it sounds outstanding. I have not tried it yet, but I assure you that I will in the future. It sounds like it should be sprayed directly on the metal, and not on top of a primer (Corroseal). The Corroseal would inhabit the Cosmoline from doing its job.
I will look into doing a Cosmoline test over the winter.
Hmm- I wonder if after adding the corroseal, if adding a rubber spray coat of the corrosral would protect more?
For sure. The Corroseal is just a primer and should have a to coat to protect it.
Would definitely not use a rubber coating as it can trap moisture underneath and rot out your frame. Eastwood makes a good chassis paint that I can vouch for, spray that on top of the corroseal
I used coreseal and capped it with boiled linseed oil I'll see how it holds up
Let us know how it goes!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial it's a test I mixed the linseed oil with 25 percent Rust-Oleum and sprayed it with a Wagner spray gun I'll keep you posted
I’ve read replies from other channels that say to spray it with a zinc paint to stop the rust and then topcoat
I am planning on covering the corroseal with cosmoline RP-342 and/or CRC 0626 which will keep out the moisture. Time will tell if this works or not. (I am hopeful) With my 99 4runner frame, I have nothing to loose.
I wish you the best. Hopefully that takes care of it.
In my experience, if you have existing surface rust, apply corroseal, then paint, the rust will come through. It also did not work on new welds; rust came through. If you use it on clean metal, it should be ok, but if the metal is clean, you may as well use automotive primer. The best solution is to grind off rust if you can. That has been my experience over the last 4 years. I hope it helps.
I’m doing another test over the winter with different combinations of Corroseal, primer, and paint. I will make a review video in the spring.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I am finding I get better results if when applying, I keep applying it, keeping it wet for about 1/2 hour by constantly re-brushing it. In those areas, You just can't brush on a coat and let it dry. This way, at least, I do not see the rust come back quickly. I will update with longer term results when they come in.
@@kf3en That sounds great. Keep us posted. Looking forward to the results.
Do you think that is you haven't done the coating that maybe the rust would have been worse? Just wondering.
Corroseal definitely needs a topcoat of paint and real application. I was just doing a test to see how it holds up on its own.
Corroseal by itself is better than nothing. But, it definitely needs a top coat of paint to protect it
I'm not one for these rust converters, but this stuff needs to be topcoated with paint. The converted finish is not waterproof, it's absorbent; which it has to be for good adhesion to paint. Try primer and paint after using this product and then conduct these same tests; would be very interesting seeing the results.
Thanks for the input! I actually have done just that; I have coated a rusty bar and topcoated it with paint (I did not use primer because Corroseal is advertised as being a primer). It is currently attached to the underbody of my vehicle for the winter. I will do a results video in the spring!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial No, you need to use the appropriate primer for the particular topcoat used. Primers have good adhesion to almost anything including other primers; topcoats, not so much. You need to use a suitable primer to completely cover the area to be painted. If you don't primer it, it will fail 100%
I would not expect this rust converter to hold up to high temperatures, so in areas that will see high heat, I would expect it to fail.
@@lizardking8388 Good point. Thanks
Good video. I also tried this stuff. Bottom line is it doesn't work very good! A good rust primer then good thick top coat of paint is way better. Don't waste your time with this latex stuff.
Your should try Fluid Film or PB Blaster Surface Shield. I have seen reviews on them. People have added pretty good results. Check them out.
Sounds great, Thanks!
I feel an issue you may be having is you are grinding down the rust on your hood and frame.
How can a rust converter convert rust that’s not there?
From what I’ve gathered this works the best being applied to actual rust not a non rusted surface.
I feel if you’re going to remove the rust there probably is another product better suited for non rusted surfaces and rust prevention.
I feel rust prevention and rust conversion are 2 diff topics.
I did enjoy your video tho. It was informative
Thanks, I appreciate it! Great points!
I agree that rust prevention on bare metal , and rust conversion are two different things.
This product did not work well for me to convert rust; just applying it directly to rusty metal.
I suppose I started moving towards grinding rust to help the product out, so there was not as much rust to convert.
My thought for applying it to metal ground clean is that there may be microscopic rust dust imbedded in the surface from grinding, or rust that I missed. I tried Corroseal as a failsafe, thinking if there’s any rust not visible, the Corroseal should take care of it.
I have tried it in many different applications, and all around, it has not worked well for me. Wherever I use it, rust comes back.
I know this video was not the best, but I thought it may be helpful in someway. I’m currently working on a more straightforward test over the winter. I intend to post up the results in the spring.
Thanks!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I cant wait to see more videos from you
@@k.wright3664 Thanks, I appreciate it. I currently post a new one every Saturday morning with no plans to deviate from that schedule.
Montreal Canada - I agree with the review - I had the same POOR results on my 2005 Xterra - Lots of rust and the Tremclad High gloss Rust paint came off - what a waste of effort.. Looked great the 2 months. A year later flakes, rust everywhere, repeat the same results. I even used Rust - Check oil to refresh and stop the rust -only this process slowed things down. After 4 years of effort and time, my Xterra looks like this video rust everywhere and 3 holes. Never use a POR or any Rust paint after any rust converter - It works very silently eating away the metal as you think all is OK. Using the hammer vibration test then you see the damage..Conclusion: CORROSEAL Rust Converter does NOT WORK !! Painting over CORROSEAL does even more damage.
So again 2 days ( I hate you CORROSEAL; why I'm I doing this again!!) of removing all the surface flakes and rust with a scrapper, power wire brush, hammer, and then sprayed 6 cans of WD-40 ..After a few applications, it's penetrating into the metal.. I think this is a much much better strategy than CORROSEAL- The next step is to use a heavy-duty lubricant, dripless formula to protect the penetrating WD-40 .. I'm leaning towards RP-342 ..
Thanks for sharing!
In the past I’ve also tried coating rusted metal with motor oil (did not work), and I also tried grease (not recommended, it accumulated dirt and was extremely messy, and I’m not sure if it worked).
There is definitely no magic coating. Grinding and wire brushing is a must. The battle against rust continues!
I have yet to try RP-342 on my first gen sequoia. I'm hoping this "military grade" stuff really works, and then go over with some farm equipment paint, or semi truck paint.
So are you just corrosealing ....or are you putting the required paint coat on top of it?....I did mine and painted it as required and still solid no rust comes back
Glad to hear that it has worked well for you.
In the first half of the video, I used Corroseal only, to see how it holds up on its own.
In real application I applied a top coat of paint. On surfaces where there was no rust, there are not any problems. However, on surfaces where there was rust, or where there were welds, rust came back through the paint.
What do you think is the best rust treatment now?
I don’t currently have a good recommendation.
I’ve tried Corroseal.
My brother and I have both tried a Rustoleum rust converter in a spray can with poor results.
I have a friend who used POR-15 on a Jeep frame and said it was garbage a year later. I have not personally tried it though.
Another viewer recommended “Cosmoline RP-342 Heavy Rust Preventative Spray“ which looks very promising. You may want to take a look at it. That’s the top product on my personal list products to try.
The best solution is to grind down to bare clean metal, and apply appropriate primer and paint. But, that is not practical when talking about an entire vehicle frame, which is why we are all interested in a rust converter that works....
Let us know if you have any other suggestions!
Great review :)
Rust ocnverters dont penetatre the rust deep enough, almost as bad as painting a rusty metal, you will get bubble rust in no time. I prefer just stripped as many rust as possible (combionation of rust remover and wheel wire brush) and used rust converter to finished them off.
Thanks. I agree. Regardless of what the rust converter claims, grinding or sandblasting is the way to go!
How did the WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor work?
I didn’t get a chance to try it. Someone thought it was a can of regular WD-40 and the can disappeared.
I’ve been spraying the underbody every fall with Rustoleum truck bed liner.
I still want to clean up a steel plate, spray half with WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor and leave it outside for the winter season. It’s on my video list.
In other words, rust is here to stay and - aside from living in the desert - there is nothing we can do to stop it.
That’s how I feel about it. You can fight to slow it, but once it starts, you are out of luck.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialIf I were an eccentric billionaire (well, I'm halfway there...) I''d have every ferrous object in my gaze sandblasted and hot-dip galvanized. Honestly, I can't believe the amount of my life I've spent in this Sisyphean battle.
Wear protective equipment. Respirator, gloves and cover your skin. Especially a respirator, dust from rust removal is bad news. Also if you're spraying Corroseal instead of using a brush it can discolor your skin. It takes weeks to for the discoloration to fade. So cover up. This information is brought to you by the school of life.
If you're spraying, avoid getting Corroseal on sensors, wiring, rubber bushing and plastics. Just wrap with newspaper. If it gets on there it's not the end of the world, just not a good idea long term to keep exposing it.
1. Remove loose rust flakes with a wire brush. Wire wheel on a drill or hand brush, whatever you have.
2. Wash all contaminants off the frame (Or body). Oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, even wax and soap residue etc.
2a. Blow off excess beaded water with air gun. Let it completely dry for a couple hours with a fan. Allowing all those nooks and seams to dry is important.
3. Apply Corroseal in a thick coat with a brush or spray it on. (I use a $20 pneumatic spray gun from Harbor Freight to spray it on. Much faster than brushing it.)
4. Here is a hint using Corroseal. Multiple coats. The process of converting rust takes longer than the drying time. So using a spray gun to apply another layer before it's completely dry is going to allow it to soak in and get all that hard to reach rust. The more rust you convert the longer it takes for it to return. So put on a few coats, even if you're using a brush. Once you coat the whole job go back and coat it again. Even a third time if you want.
5. Now apply whatever sealer you use. Whether it's paint, bar and chain oil, or another thin film product.
The name Corro"seal" denotes that it is a sealer, but they should have named it Corro"converter". It's a great rust converter, not so much a long lasting sealer. It WILL rust again and you have to do it again and again. But if used in conjunction with paint or undercoating it works great. What Corroseal does is take a majority of the elbow grease out of restoring the metal, instead of hours of sanding and grinding. You don't need to grind the frame down to bare metal and get all the pitted rust off. Just spray on Corroseal then let it sit and do it's job. Corrseal works great as a base for other sealers. It leaves a rough texture on the metal like etching. Wipe off excess dust with a dry towel and it takes paint great.
EDIT. The best case scenario is to use Corroseal to convert the rust, then paint it with glossy paint, then use a thin seal product or oil coat. I use bar and chain oil. On vehicles used in the Northeast over 15 years I've only needed to Corroseal them twice. Then I spray every other year with bar and chain oil. The undercarriages look great. Warning though, bar and chain oil smells like bar and chain oil. So it smells and drips a little for a few days. So if you don't like stains in the driveway, use one of those thin coat sprays. But I have lots of bar and chain oil so that's what I use. It's cheap.
Don't get any of the above chemicals on the exhaust. At best it'll smoke at worst you'll have a fire.
Outstanding. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it.
I wander if you paint it how well will it do
I recently posted a video showing how Corroseal holds up with a top coat paint. I used clear paint to see what the Corroseal is doing beneath it.
czcams.com/video/pHeHN5h4l6I/video.html
But yes, Corroseal is intended to be top coated with paint. In this video, I was just seeing how it holds up on its own.
A year ago I did a truck frame and took it to the extreme I air hammered the frame then light wire bruck grinder then sprayed water then ospho let it dry over a week then sprayed corroseal let dry a week then sprayed 2k epoxy let dry a week then brushed on oil based black even after all that seams and welded connecting points still show light rust
You put in the full effort. Thanks for sharing the results! Very valuable information!
maybe the brake didnt resist the heat?? some heat resistant paint maybe?
doesn't it say on the label that corroseal isn't intended for clean metal and is only a converter of rust....there must be rust for a conversion to take place....lot of good examples of longer term samples.....yes i used to swear by it but it isn't as permanent as they want us to believe, for sure....whats the better suggestion out there?
I have watched many videos on this product. I think your issue is that you are supposed to coat with this product 3X.
You put on your frame then didn't topcoat? Do you know how hot a brake drum gets 😆
Thanks for the comment. I agree that it is a primer. I have indeed top coated and experienced rust coming up from under the paint in multiple applications. I’m currently performing a test over the winter with Corroseal and a top coat. Results video in the future.
5:40 looks like an alien skull on the end of the metal.
I see it!
Use blaster.They make a rust pervasive (Blaster) spray can at Harbourfrightfor about $10.00 A can. Spry on man?
Lol. I was just at Harbor Freight to replenish my zip ties!
The directions say to stir . Do not shake
use as primer only. paint over as directions say.
Thanks for the input!
I agree, it is a primer. I have indeed painted over it many times in many different applications including vehicle frame, brake drums, weld beads on new body panels, and steel pipe. The rust bubbles back through from under the paint. In my experience, Corroseal has not neutralized the rust. and cannot be applied without sandblasting or wire brushing first as advertised.
I am conducting a test over the winter, with Corroseal primer and paint. I will have a video with the results up in the spring.
Use por 15
The speed of rust showing up was kinda scarey. I think the instructions talk of 2 coats, and letting it cure for 48 hours.
I put a single super thick coating on my vw bug inside floor pan that had years of heavy rusting, with 1/3 of it rusted away to nothing on the passenger side.
It’s worth a try. I would recommend welding in a floor pan.
Dude the narration is hilarious. He sounds sad the whole time because he has been using the same product that doesn’t work after years. 😂
Lol. This has me cracking up.
I finally used it up in a different video. Someone left a comment saying I didn’t need to use that much. What they didn’t realize is that was the day I was going to finish it off at all costs so I could finally get rid of the jug.
Top coat with RP342
This product is at the top of my list!
If it’s brown doesn’t that mean that the substance has been contaminated with chemicals?
The website says it is the result of incompletes conversion.
But, I purchased the product, applied it, and that’s the result.
Maybe putting on 3 heavy coats on it would solve your problems...
So what product works ?
I do not have a good recommendation in my experience. Several other products have been recommended, however, I have not personally tried them.
In my personal experience, grinding the rust down to clean metal and priming and painting it has been the longest lasting solution, but the rust eventually comes back. Another solution is to cut it out and weld in new panels, however, I have also had issues with the welds rusting over time.
This stuff just looks like a rust converter rather than a sealer, after using it try using a wax oil or some other sealer on top of it and see how it gets on.
Did you read the bottle? Says RUST CONVERTER. Doesn't say anything about being an undercoating or pancake syrup. It needs a top coat per the bottle.
There's also a better one called RUST SERGANT R.C.M.P. Kinda pricey but works
Nice. I will check into it!
Also you are supposed to top coat with paint but on my 03 duramax I did the frame with no top coat and it's been over a yr and no signs of rust anywhere
Dude sounds like Joe Pera lol
CRC
If it doesn't work use a rust converter not a primer then seal with a polyurethane not a latex
Then wool wax
Yes, needs top coat
Thanks. I agree. Just seeing how it holds up on its own in this video. But I did just post a 7 month test review video with a top coat.
Can you use a sprayer
Good question! I have personally used it in a spray bottle. Just a regular spray bottle that you pump with your hand, like a Windex spray bottle. It did not seem to work very well and I just ended up using a brush. I have not used it in a commercial pneumatic spray system, so I do not know about that.
Can you be any more lazy??
Countless of people try to winn over the rust,but none of them sucsess.
Hahaha! The rust always wins.
They the same test after you paint it...