How Does Exposure Compensation Actually Work? | Ask David Bergman
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2020
- Today's question from Jeff S. -- “How does exposure compensation actually work? Does it just change shutter speed, aperture, or ISO? If so, how does it decide which setting or settings to change?”
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING! - Jak na to + styl
Count of " " was so irritating to me....
Yes. It was very distracting.
Yea it really detracted from the useful information
Seriously
Thumbs down just for the counting of air quotes very distracting
Agreed. These “quirks” on free education materials are soooooooo annoying. Gtfo here. Beggars can’t be choosers
I couldn't make it past the 3rd ding.
OMG 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
I barely managed to the 6th. Most annoying video edit ever. And it cuts in the middle of sentences ruining the good lesson.
As someone who is prone to migraines the audio quality is just as important as the content.
4 minutes 6 dings and I’m wrenching. Afraid to watch more because it will trigger a migraine. Please adjust the dreaded 🛎
that ding lost it's appeal real fast.
but otherwise, super handy video!
I stopped watching half way through because of the distracting 'ding's
The dings would be bearable, but the constant pausing of the video killed it for me.
Yeah bad call..
Dings and pauses bad. Quit watching on third ding.
Couldn't watch the whole thing because of the annoying "dings" and freeze frame.
Yeah, lower volume and no freeze frame would have made it more watchable.
Totally agree
Same
LOL, I really got a lot out of the video but yes most distracting. It's common in the world of teaching videos. I suppose the idea is to keep it fun and entertaining but I myself like to get serious and stay in the zone of focusing and learning.
same
Just put up a counter instead of the dings & freeze frames
Thank you for stating what I've always known but couldn't articulate, which is that if you shoot manually exposure compensation has no value lol. You simply adjust your aperture or shutter speed accordingly (e.g., based on light meter readings or, better yet, what you see on the LCD).
I heard that what you see on the screen is deceptive. You should instead check on the histogram. Is that correct?
That's not accurate, at least on cameras I've used. All the exposure compensation does is tell the camera metering system that the scene is brighter or darker than the 18% grey that it typically exposes for. In automatic modes, it will result in changes being made to the actual settings. In manual mode, all it does is change where the indicator is on the exposure meter and leave it to you to make the adjustment manually. As a result, you can get a lot more adjustment than you'd think as you get both the maximum exposure compensation as well as the maximum amount that you can adjust the meter and still be on the display.
It's kind of an important detail as sometimes you may need more than the amount of compensation that is available or what you can see within the meter. In manual mode you can just completely ignore the compensation if you like, but it will limit you insituations where you need so much compensation that you're no longer on the displayed meter.
And as Lewis suggested, ultimately, it's the histogram that will tell you if you've got the exposure correct. Or at least correct enough for some reasonable adjustment in software.
@@lewis1180 I almost never use my histogram for exposure *shrugs*
That's basically what I have come to figure out. EC only applies to people who shoot Aperture or Shutter Priority. I've never turned my knob off of M for the 25 years I've used a SLR or DSLR. I wouldn't know who to use my camera if it's not on M. Just the way I was taught
Stop the ding. It detracts from the message ANNOYING
Deal with it.
Fantastic lesson. It’s always been confusing part of photography but not anymore. Thank you.
Excellent lesson David. You covered all the bases and answered all the questions. Not frustrating at all like many videos I watch. Thank You.
A big thumb up to you David. Even I don’t natively speak English and have very little knowledge about photography, I understood the lesson easily
Ni video David. On my Sony A7RII, when I use aperture priority, I also set the min and max range for ISO and min shutter speed, so I know that the camera won't go any lower than, for example, 1/160th or 1/250th sec. Works pretty well.
In digital photography the most frequent exposure problem is blown out, irretrievably overexposed highlights. Underexposing by one stop (and often even more) will not only reduce the likelihood of that happening, it will be easy to restore the highlight/shadow balance in post. Even modestly priced gear will retain shadow detail if underexposed up to three stops, but at least some blown out highlights tend to pop up in most uncompensated images, unless spot metering was used to expose specifically for the highlights. Bottom line - most of the time expose/compensate for the highlights, and retrieve the shadows in post.
Please stop the dinging. It got in the way of the message.
Outstanding lesson.
I cannot watch this with the mindless dings.
And this answers why I never use exposure compensation: I'm always shooting in manual mode. But, it's still pretty useful for shooting in shutter priority or aperture priority when the internal reflective meter isn't metering the point of focus.
If using auto ISO, exposure comp is useful for manually pushing the gain average up or down.
Obviously, if you've got an external meter, this is pointless. An incident meter will get the exposure right pretty much every time, as long as you can position it near the subject.
For manual generally though, it can be useful if youre exposure needs to be far enough off from the typical that the indicator is stuck on the left or the right. At that point, you might as well not even have a meter as you're not going to be able to tell the difference. The EC can extendt hat a bit. Shooting with the indicator stuck at either side is kind of risky.
The internal reflective meter IS metering the point of focus.
Thanks so much for this. I never really had a good understanding of what was happening mechanically. Now I do.
for street photography I find “full manual” but bracketed auto ISO to be the best for me. Exposure comp is a very quick way to control the ISO during select compositions
Very fascinating and educational. I am definitely going to utilize some adjustments in certain areas of weakness especially night shots.
I prefer Manual Mode also, where I set the Aperture and Shutter speed, but put the ISO on Auto. That way, when you use exposure compensation it only changes the ISO. Works for me :) Keep up the great work!
Best answer right here ^. If you are new or you are simply a shooter hat's never really used it, THIS ^ again is the best way to go.
In doing this you can allow the camera to pick a high iso which might get grainy
What max ISO settings do you use?
Make a sense... Excellent tutorial... I needs to work on that features but I hasn't messing with it for years. Hand gestures are fine without sound effects like air quote. Notification pinging in my ears was unnecessarily but can be heard someone else notification goes off in the background. Nice work, David. Rock star photography (maybe). 🤘🏻 📷 📸
Wonderful coverage of the subject and how to select which feature one controls when shooting in those modes and what one aspect from the sensor reading in different backgrounds and subject.
Brilliant - Just what I needed. Thanks
Very helpful, thank you! Another Q - how do exposure compensation & flash compensation interact? When using a flash, would exposure compensation even come into play with TTL? Would flash compensation basically override “in camera” exposure compensation when flash is in manual mode? (“See” what I “did” there?)
Very clear demo of what EC does and how to use it in practical terms
I use exposure compensation all the time in hockey arenas. The ice reflects and causes the cameras metering to be off. So I take a test shot. Some arenas I’m up at +1.7 and sometimes as low as +1.3. It depends on the lighting and the ice surface. I look at the images I take for details in the highlights, proper skin tones and the uniform colours. Lots of times one team will have a dark jersey and another a light jersey. So I want to make sure I see the tonal ranges in the jerseys. I am usually shooting at 1/320
Second and iso 3200. I have a variable aperture lens 70-300 f:/4.5-6.3 so I do have to make minor adjustments when shooting at 70mm compared to 220mm. It works well. Saves me in editing in post ( other than checking horizon lines).
1/320s is way too slow for sports.
Was just shooting a football game 3 days ago. Was talking with a student photographer on sidelines about this very subject & few more items. Told her last year to watch videos on this channel for tips which she says she does.
During game was discussing how metering works in cameras & for her to take control of exposure for how she wants her images to look & not let camera decide always. Hope she watches this video because she will have to laugh since we just talked about this subject... great timing David 👍
If she (Fe......) sees this... Like I told you great tips here... hope to see you again for playoff games.
And again the timing couldn't have been better for this video, lol ✌️
ADB should have his own channel. He’s concise, knowledgeable and awesome.
Extremely helpful and great. Thank you for this. When I'm in Av Mode, my camera changes both the shutter speed and ISO. In this video, the camera is automatically adjusting shutter speed and not ISO. Is this because you have set your ISO instead of having it on auto ISO? Thanks.
Perfect explanation! Thanks!
Best explanation - the way I see it then is you could use Exp Comp to selectively make the blacks less grey or make the whites whiter in your shot if the camera tries to neutralize everything to a neutral medium grey
Essentially yes. With many sensors though, that applies just as much to lit reds, magentas and yellows as to whites as all three use red pixels and tend to be highlights that are more easily blown.
Thanks. Excellent lesson.
This is just what I needed! Thank you!
excellent video, David. I don't really use the exposure compensation dial so I never thought of it much. I'm the house photographer at a music club and I shoot in manual mode all the time. I was not aware that in manual mode exposure compensation doesn't do anything. Very interesting. Good to know how it actually works just in case. I learned something new. 🙂
Great explanation.
I WAS JUST THINKING I NEED TO FIND A VIDEO ON WHAT EX COMP MEANS. Great video!!!
Nicely explained David, excellent video👍
You eradicated any kind of questions i might have about exposure....👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent. Simon d’Entremont also does an excellent Exposure Compensation mode lesson. Grateful I found both! 😊 thank you!
Hey David, thanks for the response. You mostly answered the question, but... I am a Canon shooter, in your example you were shooting Av and you set the ISO, what if you left the ISO on Auto, hence giving the camera two choices to adjust (shutter and ISO), which would it choose? I do mostly shoot Manual (setting shutter and aperture) leaving ISO on auto for bird shooting, but I'm almost positive that the camera adjusts my shutter speed in this case, not just ISO when I shoot with bracketing on.
If shooting aperture priority in auto ISO, the camera will adjust shutter speed first as always. Then, when it gets to the minimum shutter speed you set (in the auto iso settings), it will stop and switch to moving the ISO. That’s so your shutter speed doesn’t get so low that you get blurry images. Here’s a video I did about it: czcams.com/video/lFpLhIHXVOk/video.html
Not only answered Jeff's question... I always wondered why I need adjust exposure if I have ISO/Shutter/Aperture..+ND (Which is in Manual- - ) Turns out its kind for 'semi/full' setting not needed in manual
Fantastic and crystal clear, thank you David.
Thank you David..you are as always the cream of the cream..wishing you all the best.
Great explanation thanks!
Really helpful video!
So well explained. Thank you so much :)
I tend to shoot S priority most of the time personally. On manual, may go a half stop lower for better saturation.
Very interesting. I always wondered that even though I’ve never used it. However, you brought up something I didn’t know. I just purchased an R6 and use it to shoot my son playing ice hockey. I am in full manual and usually set the metering to partial metering. You mentioned the R6 has a different metering process. Should I use something else for my metering?
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!
I followed your setting and it gave me 1/8 on a dark background and 1/5 on a brighter background. I used Canon 6D. This is at what you said 1/100 and 1/50.
Thank you . that made sense.
What meter mode you use when use flash in ETTL ? Why and what situation?Thank you for you time and I appreciated all you videos.
Great explanation. Well done.
As always...great information, David!
Bonus that we got to watch you do the air quotes and keep track. Hilarious!
Hi Jeff, yes you explained that very well using the lens cap.
I want to try to use it to take portraits outside facing bright sun.
If I was a pro, or had a light meter I suppose I could use manual.
But with AE I can use Aperture or Shutter mode, and then we are really overding the camera with an AE or 1 or 2 stops.
Is that right?
I tried this on several canon cameras and got very different results. Program mode uses an algorithm to set the exposure using shutter speed, aperture and ISO. None of them are locked in unless you've set a minimum or maximum value. The algorithm won't bust your limits so the program will shift the values of what it can. It does not restrict changes only to shutter speed. Exposure compensation tells the algorithm to allow more or less light than it would otherwise, but still uses all three points of the exposure triangle.
This was a great question. I don't like to use Exposure Compensation mainly because it can still give you a bad setting! It has no idea if your subject is moving or you are handholding on a zoom lens. That means it could slow down your shutter too slow and end up with an out of focus image in Aperture priority.
Its also a two-step process, push the exposure comp button, then turn the dial.
Man up and learn Manual Mode (Just kidding) but its the best mode to use.
That would be the case regardless. If you're allowing the camera to set things automatically, that can happen. Some cameras have either a safety shift feature that can override the settings if it thinks they're really poorly advised, and some cameras will allow you to set a minimum value for shutter and maximum for aperture to ensure that things don't go off the rails due to the computer screwing up.
You shouldn't be using the EC without knowing what you want from it.
Excellent video. You have a gift for explaining things. Love your videos. I was 10 minutes in the video and was going to make a comment saying, it sounds like I should just continue with manual mode because I have full control. Just so happen you mentioned the same thing later in the video. lol. There are too many issues to deal with exposure compensation. (AV & TV).
Awesome video
Great! Thanks!
Thanks
I have a zoom lens with variable aperture f/4.5 to f/6.3. By setting it to aperture priority mode and setting the correct exposure compensation even though the camera will change the aperture when I zoom in or out I will get the correct exposure. Depending on how I have zoomed the lens the camera will change the aperture and the exposure will be compensated with shutter speed.
very nice info.. esp on M what exposure does.. i got my answer..
A wealth of information
Does this topic relate to the camera metering mode? For the lens cap sample, the spot metering will yield a correct exposure without any exposure compensation if your meter spot aims to the lens cap.
So much to learn, so much to remember
Illuminating, confirmed my experiemce, thanks
Who knew exposure compensation didn't work in Manual mode! Good info on a somewhat difficult topic. Thanks for your time!
thy. ..good video and well explained
In Aperture or Shutter priority mode with Auto ISO, exposure compensation will just move the ISO up or down. And I find that highly confusing as to whether that's a good, bad or OK thing. I end up with the same exposure at different ISOs and have no idea which is the best one to keep or why.
I prefer to keep Auto ISO off and just move the ISO up or down to get the shutter speed (or aperture) I want. And when I use EC, it makes sense because the exposure is actually brighter or darker and I have some idea of what I'm doing.
brilliant
Wow. That’s the best explanation I’ve heard. I finally got now. Thank you!!
Great video. I was confused about your comment that in P mode the “ camera selects aperture, shutter speed and ISO”. I know that is true in full auto mode but on my Nikon, in P mode I still select ISO, and camera selects aperture and shutter speed. Am I missing something?
Probably not. Does the camera have an A option in the iso range, because that's usually the case, if you want fully and completely automatic, that's what you'd typically do.
I don’t know if anyone here has been shooting long enough to have worked with a Minolta XK, yes back in the days of film. It had the ability to do plus or minus three stops simply by pushing a spring loaded lever to the left or right to get 3 stops compensation seamlessly. Let go of the lever and it reverted back to zero. No fiddling around with dials or forgetting that you still had the compensation set. Also your eyes never left the viewfinder. Amazing for a camera introduced in the 70’s.
I've enjoyed this recent series of videos. Would you be willing to talk about handling white balance/color in mixed lighting situations? I am a hobby photographer who shoots candids of family members indoors and struggle to deal with the mix of window light and interior lighting.
Sure! Send it to www.AskDavidBergman.com :)
Such information filled video. But spoiled by 🛎️🛎️🛎️
“ excellent explanation “ 😁👍🏻
Awesome ! Wish I could join the shop but that’s wedding day for me. Next time though
Thanks for this. Very helpful. Assume you are shooting in Manual with auto iso. If you use exposure control to darken two stops - does the camera lower iso two stops, and leave the aperture and shutter speed at the settings you selected manually?
Yes. Itll lower iso until it cant any further. At that point it will start blinking
Great video. What if I use shutter speed priority and zoom all the way out with maximum aperture, what does the camera do when I step up the exposure compensation?
Just depends what the camera is seeing. It will adjust for what it thinks is the “right” exposure regardless of being zoomed in or not. Unless you have activate exposure lock or change to manual.
If you have a slow lens and there isnt enough light, AV/TV modes will show a blinking number in your viewfinder telling you that your settings are capped. Your photos will be underexposed. You can turn safety shift on in custom functions and itll change ur shutter speed or aperture even in priority modes to get a correct exposure.
I have ongoing problems with shooting against the light.
Most common scene causing problems is taking photos of people at the beach with very bright sun at their backs.
As you have already guessed, end up with too many blackened/underexposed human objects.
I invariably use aperture priority and spot metering.
Have attempted to use exposure compensation, obviously with less than satisfactory results.
Advice please?
Am heading off to Adorama ,by you, dealing with exposure compensation.
You mention R5/R6 have an andvanced metering mode that prioritize the focus area, picking up the best exposure regardless of the background (like snow). Any more infos on that? Can't find details in the reference...
David, I may have misunderstood the point of, when in full manual mode, the camera is telling you without making any changes to the composition that you are two stops underexposed. How do you know when composition is correct then. sorry if this is sounding like a thick question.
Mr. Bergman - Is exposure correction an alternative to a neutral-density filter? If so, when might you use a ND filter or when might you use Exposure Correction? Thanks for the videos.
I wouldn’t use a filter for something you can simply control with exposure. The goal should always be to get the exposure that’s “correct” for you. ND filters can help when you need to go beyond what you can do with exposure. For example, if you want a very slow shutter speed for running water on a tripod. Something like 10 seconds. You can put your ISO as low as it will go and close down your aperture as much as the lens will allow and still have too much light at 10 seconds. So put an ND over the lens to block some of the light from entering the lens.
Thanks for the prompt response. I get it. Gotta say if I need help in the range of 1 to 3 stops, exposure correction looks easier and faster to deal with, especially hand held.
is it worth reducing the exposure down 1 stop (for example) to get a faster shutter speed then bringing the brightness back up when doing your post processing?
i shoot with Av mode..
Thanks for this video... but now I have a question about shooting the stars... do you want to be darker or brighter? TIA
Interesting...I use manual but with auto ISO (wildlife/nature shots) so Exposure Compensation does have an impact. In that case, is it adjusting ISO to compensation? Canon R5 is my primary.
In manual, auto ISO will only change the ISO. If you’re on aperture priority, you set the aperture and pick an shutter speed (in the settings) so that, if the camera wants to go lower than that speed, it will start to adjust ISO instead.
If all EC does is change one of the other settings, then why not just change those settings yourself? I was always under the impression EC somehow changed some other setting in a way not known by users.
What is the definition of zero on the exposure compensation scale? What is the algorithm by which the camera determines what zero is? I'm aware that 18% grey is used for white balance. Is it also used to determine exposure?
Double figures! Well done 🤣🤣 Good video!!
Okay, that explains it. Strong back light, use exposure compensation. Thanks for posting.
When you shoot using AV or TV mode, how does your ISO change? Do you put your ISO in auto to have it dial in a number using AV or TV? I also assume if you set a number for ISO, it won't change in AV or TV mode? Thanks!
Hi David. On a speedlight you have zoom. Why should you use it and how? // José from Sweden.
Hi sir...how to use speedlight while shooting in AV/TV mode
What's the advantage of using Aperture Priority than Manual? Since you are discussing exposure compensation. Next video please
How can I manually adjust shutter speed on EOS R while in manual mode? thanks.
How does it works in Manual mode. In D850, we increase or decrease exposure compensation. I didn't get this thing in Manual modern.
In manual, you pick all the settings and the camera doesn’t change anything.
Thank you so much!
if i were you I would limit the use of bell sounds, they are really taking the focus out of the topic.
I own a canon 90d and i love it. When i'm using jpeg only i get 32 megapixels, but when i'm reducing to 15 megapixels, How does it actually works in camera can any one tel me. Thanks.