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Four-Link Tuning Guide for Dirt Late Models and Dirt Modifieds; A Little Different Slant
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- čas přidán 25. 12. 2021
- This is my take on tuning a four-link chassis as we find on dirt late models and dirt modifieds. This might be a little different than you are used to. There are a ton of tuning guides, you can find them everywhere.
If you are interested in getting a copy of my book, you can find it on Amazon at:
amzn.to/3Fvmt0B
You can find my blog at:
hogantechnologi...
Thank you and be safe,
Kevin
The rear axle is a solid axle, so I do not understand how you sepertate left rear steer and right rear stear. If you make a bar adjustment that adds rear stear to one side, you have added rear stear to BOTH sides.
Yep, exactly. Because of the beam axle you are adding to both sides. What many people fail to keep in mind is that roll angle matters as much as lift on the LR. Local people around here concentrate on LR lift, but because the two are connected together, it will start pulling the RR off the cup. Thanks for watching.
2:25-3:00 has me confused. It sounded like maybe you were talking about raising the bar. You described putting more angle in the left lower and sticking the rr outside of the rf and creating a loose condition. Just want to clarify
Yea, actually keeping the LR lower up will increase roll steer. If. You string the right side tires with more roll steer, you will see the right rear actually gets outside the right front.
Never see anyone talk about J-Bar or 5th coil adjustment/pinion angle. Everyone seems to just use the spring smasher for everything.
Yea, things in racing follow trends. This is the trend we are on.
I’ve found a lot of people can’t relate to car handling without talking smash numbers.
I think to be better at the game, you need to understand how things work at their core.
Thanks for watching.
Jbar: lengthening pushes rear end to right, loosening car. Shortening tightens. Increasing angle tightens car, decreasing angle loosens car... 5th coil: closer to rear end= more instant traction but may not pull hard all the way, on long straightaways. May need to add spring rate when shortening and vice versa. Then u have rebound control on 5th coil. These cars are very technical, best to go to chassis seminar, and always start with manufacturer's recommendations first. If you move jbar too much u can bind up birdcages or get the drive shaft into frame by drivers compartment. If run too much LR top bar angle can over cam birdcage along with watching how much rear steer u add to the car allowing drive shaft to get into rear seal of transmission.
Do you have any tips on dummy shocks?
I’m thinking you mean the LR front shock. I always liked getting as little rebound as possible as well as as little seal drag as possible.
Because gas pressure adds seal drag, use just enough gas pressure so it doesn’t cavitation. Bumping up the base valve will help on this.
Compression depends on the driver, track, and the amount of rebound on the right front.
Letting the car not fall on entry is the key. My go to if I saw someone’s car falling on entry was 100 pounds of compression @ 1”per sec.
There is also something to consider here. I used to make my own LR front shock mounts so they would be closer to the axle. This would cut down on the rotational speed and add more traction.
I see lots of ideas and lots of different valuing and they all seem to work pretty good.
Thanks for watching.
I have a new video out today dealing with what I think is the best LR front shock for late models and modifieds.
Yeah I would like to see a video on 5th coil like the guy said below
I will put t on my list. I don’t talk much about it because with all the experimenting I did, we didn’t find much improvement it speed. I will try to put something together for what I know about it. Thanks for watching.
Lets go inside Hogans head.
Actually, I'm Kevin. Hogan was my dog. I thought it would be a good name.