The final video in the Low Budget Bicycle Frame Jig series! In this video I build the seat tube fixture and finish the Jig (at least for now). Play List: • Pithy Bikes - Low Budg...
I'm not sure if you've already considered it but this whole design lends itself very well to CNC cut ply and laser or waterjet cut steel. You could almost get it to a place where all you end up doing is assembly (or packaging if sending to other people). By the way, if you were to get it CNC cut, may I make a suggestion which is to implement a bridal joint in to the main frame, would still be super strong but mostly you would get a much better economy from your materials.
Alex Rains I had to look up “bridal joint” 😓 yes that’s a great solution. I’m planning a redesign that has a straight base frame with no bend up for the Head tube section. I’ll explain it better in the next video. But really quick, it is to make the jig more portable and modular. Love the thoughts on cnc. I’m considering this if the jig end up working well in practice.
@@PithyBikes Totally, you can use this time to prototype and get a proof of concept, once you're happy with it you could consider putting it in to production. It's a great design with a lot of potential, as best I can tell, economical bike frame jigs are not really on the marketplace so there's certainly a gap to be filled. Good luck with the next iteration.
MGTOW Life sorry about that! I’m staring back on that soon. I’ll build it on this jig. I’m also changing up my video production so I can release videos more frequently. Hope you’ll tune in when I’m back on to the town bike frame guild.
Very nice. I made the cones the same way for my jig. Don't you need a couple more for the head-tube? And if you ever make a mountain bike they need to be enormous-- the fat end of a tapered HT is 56mm diameter.
Your 3d printer's nozzle is just a smidge too high. Start a print, stop it, center, put a card under, and raise the platform until the card (a bussiness card, not a credit one) is touching the nozzle just enough to drag, then repeat this (without moving the height anymore) on all 4 corners until all 5 spots report card depth. Don't turn off the printer, moving the table can induce electricity in your driver card and burn it (you can disable it, but that will make the height motor easy to lose position since weight will fight with you).
When you drill holes in wood (but to some extent metals too) with a pre-hole (mostly enlarging something or chamfering it) first run the drill in reverse. Holes, generally speaking have rough edges that catch the drills (mostly happens with two flute types, triflute doesn't catch so much and so on, but those are stupid expensive), by running in reverse, you smooth the edge and allow for a "soft" chamfering, thus, making it easier to drill straight in the middle. I'm sure you've seen holes wander and/or have that uggly hex pattern.
Great work Steve, can’t wait for the next frame build 😉
I'm not sure if you've already considered it but this whole design lends itself very well to CNC cut ply and laser or waterjet cut steel. You could almost get it to a place where all you end up doing is assembly (or packaging if sending to other people). By the way, if you were to get it CNC cut, may I make a suggestion which is to implement a bridal joint in to the main frame, would still be super strong but mostly you would get a much better economy from your materials.
Alex Rains I had to look up “bridal joint” 😓 yes that’s a great solution. I’m planning a redesign that has a straight base frame with no bend up for the Head tube section. I’ll explain it better in the next video. But really quick, it is to make the jig more portable and modular. Love the thoughts on cnc. I’m considering this if the jig end up working well in practice.
@@PithyBikes Totally, you can use this time to prototype and get a proof of concept, once you're happy with it you could consider putting it in to production. It's a great design with a lot of potential, as best I can tell, economical bike frame jigs are not really on the marketplace so there's certainly a gap to be filled. Good luck with the next iteration.
I've been following you in this serie and i really like your work, it helps us a lot. Can you make a video building a frame with this jig?
Weler Martins yes! I’ll build the mini town bicycle with this jig.
Great Projekt 💪
You baited us so hard with the wife bike concept. Been waiting for a whole year and you haven't even started.
MGTOW Life sorry about that! I’m staring back on that soon. I’ll build it on this jig. I’m also changing up my video production so I can release videos more frequently. Hope you’ll tune in when I’m back on to the town bike frame guild.
@@PithyBikes I'm glued to your channel my dude.
Very nice. I made the cones the same way for my jig. Don't you need a couple more for the head-tube? And if you ever make a mountain bike they need to be enormous-- the fat end of a tapered HT is 56mm diameter.
Ben C I’ll go with custom flat washers for the ht
Your 3d printer's nozzle is just a smidge too high. Start a print, stop it, center, put a card under, and raise the platform until the card (a bussiness card, not a credit one) is touching the nozzle just enough to drag, then repeat this (without moving the height anymore) on all 4 corners until all 5 spots report card depth. Don't turn off the printer, moving the table can induce electricity in your driver card and burn it (you can disable it, but that will make the height motor easy to lose position since weight will fight with you).
Hello good sir! This video is not in the playlist! Video five is in there twice!
When you drill holes in wood (but to some extent metals too) with a pre-hole (mostly enlarging something or chamfering it) first run the drill in reverse. Holes, generally speaking have rough edges that catch the drills (mostly happens with two flute types, triflute doesn't catch so much and so on, but those are stupid expensive), by running in reverse, you smooth the edge and allow for a "soft" chamfering, thus, making it easier to drill straight in the middle. I'm sure you've seen holes wander and/or have that uggly hex pattern.
This is terrible advice.