Feast of Fools 5.10b : freak-out on p2 (4K POV first-person beta) : Trad Climbing The Gunks, NY
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- čas přidán 28. 09. 2023
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Pitch 2 starts at: 9:07
Pitch 3 starts at: 21:52
It's been a hot minute but not long enough for your intrepid hero to be this scared. Feast of Fools 5.10b at the Arrow Wall of the Gunks, NY fires off with a very sporty first pitch up a dihedral into a thin traverse one way before hero-jugs traversing back to a no-hands rest. From there is a small boulder problem into either a dihedral finish on jugs or a face-climb on some smaller holds. Both felt on the grade but climb wildly different. Pitch two, at the loaded grade of 5.9++, hit yours truly quite hard in its cryptic, sustained sequence. The beginning face does not protect well but once you're at the undercling corner crux you can get a few solid pieces in including clipping a fixed wire left by some unlucky but kind samaritan. What came next was a harrowing experience I'm mildly embarassed to have caught on film. Pitch three seemed to be never climbed with the amount of lichen on it but cruising up the detached blocks into a memorable roof sequence was still very worth doing. It's time to bring this puppy back, hope you enjoy!
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It's been a hot minute but not long enough for your intrepid hero to be this scared. Feast of Fools 5.10b at the Arrow Wall of the Gunks, NY fires off with a very sporty first pitch up a dihedral into a thin traverse one way before hero-jugs traversing back to a no-hands rest. From there is a small boulder problem into either a dihedral finish on jugs or a face-climb on some smaller holds. Both felt on the grade but climb wildly different. Pitch two, at the loaded grade of 5.9++, hit yours truly quite hard in its cryptic, sustained sequence. The beginning face does not protect well but once you're at the undercling corner crux you can get a few solid pieces in including clipping a fixed wire left by some unlucky but kind samaritan. What came next was a harrowing experience I'm mildly embarassed to have caught on film. Pitch three seemed to be never climbed with the amount of lichen on it but cruising up the detached blocks into a memorable roof sequence was still very worth doing. It's time to bring this puppy back, hope you enjoy!
Thank you for sharing. Lovely video :)
haha lovely is one word for it! Thanks for watching! More coming as we speak!
Great vids, thanks for posting, keep them coming.
I feel compelled to voice this concern:
That P2 belay anchor could have ben sooo much better.
One of the main rules of anchors is REDUNDANCY.
Equalizing bolted chains is so easy, there's no reason not to.
Two quickdraws off the hangers is literally 100% more bomber than clipping one chain.
And there are half a dozen other ways to equalize.
I've certainly taken chances while climbing before, everyone has, but for new climbers watching I'd hate for them to take the cue that one point of pro is sufficient.
And yes I'm sure a new stainless 1/2" bolt can hold three parties glory whipping at once without issue.
But good habits take practice.
And showing good habits will only help the newbies who are inspired by these vids.
thanks for taking the time to comment! If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about the bolted anchors at the top of Pitch 1. You'll notice when I get to the anchor I clip into both chains for the reasons you describe. I don't recall what set of decisions my partner came to when I began off the second pitch, but I suppose if we were to analyse that current configuration, we are arguably through both sets of bolts as I have my first piece through the right one and he is cloved into the left one. Redundant, yes. Equalized? Surely not. However the concept of equalization in its regurgitated interpretation has been widely and heavily debunked but that's a discussion for another time.
oh I should also mention that yes you're absolutely correct if we just used a quad or two draws that would have EASILY been a better choice
I thought I was watching myself climb at the 15 minute mark! So relatable. Expect I climb like that when I have a bolt at my waist.
I expect a lot of exceptions from you
I've done all three pitches and that 2nd pitch looks moderate but IS the crux of the whole climb.
crux: hard
pants: shat
That second pitch got my heart racing. Was definitely feeling the panic creep in
upon review it still doesn't fully capture how terrified I was :(
@@arduouspathsYou might want to stay on belay till you are anchored at the top.
@@marcushill78 yeah that's a good idea. You're pretty secure on the GT ledge though
I felt your fear on pitch 2! You kept it together, that's the important thing.
the fear was so real 😭
When did you climb this I was just at the Gunks this Thursday
I climbed this some time ago. BUT I was at the gunks this past thursday! I was epicking on follow of Scary Area 5.12c
Hopefully we bump into each other sometime
@@TheDiabolicalDoogle aiming to do some 5.4s some time this week :)