First Attempt Trad Climbing on Erect Direction at The Gunks, NY
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- čas přidán 20. 09. 2017
- Crab walks and layback cracks. Two styles I'm terrible at. They're also the two styles that make up most of Erect Direction. Then add the Directissima nature of this route and the number of roofs that the rope needs to drag over and I find myself having a half hour adventure.
I absolutely LOVED this climb.
Bring far more runners (long runners) then I did up this beast and maybe double up a piece or two. Doesn't matter which ones, you'll need them all ;) - Sport
I'm a big fan of the raw videos with the falls, as well as the commentary. It helps me learn what to do, what not to do, and why you should or should not do something. As somebody who learns most of their technique primarily from youtube I appreciate the chance to see somebody talk through their decisions and point out their own mistakes. Kudos!
That climb was hilarious. The shirt on the leg gag had me rolling.
Props for leaving this one up and not just posting a refined version with better performance. We've all been there. I have noticed on quite a few of your videos that you pass really good hand jam rests in favor of laybacking in a much more strenuous position. You can do that because you're strong and have incredible endurance. Guys like me have to seek out creative rests and jam rests because I can't just hang on my grip forever. Looks like a really tough line and you did a good job despite some of the mistakes- all of which I think most climbers that plug gear and get gripped have made at some point.
Thank you for these videos 🙏🏻 fun to watch and very informative to a new trad leader
Holy balls this is a great video. Thanks for posting the less-than-perfect ones. I’m learning a lot from you.
Very impressive. Congratulations, great climbing...
Loved this one, looks like a scary climb :D
Awesome. Loved watching the realness.
I had a multi hour epic on this route myself, i didnt extend the first (big) piece before the crab crawl and did it all in one pitch... the rope drag was insane and my second had just as much trouble...Do it in two pitches unless your crazy solid on roofs...But the climb has good holds and just keeps coming and coming. Felt like a real deal route for sure. great videos!!!
I loved the shirt sliding down around the foot. 😁
Had an fun time trying to lead ED after my partner backed off. Got through the "crux" and tried to do it all in one pitch but ended in terrible rope drag mostly because I wasn't smart/brave enough to extend my slings enough. From what I can remember if broken into two pitches it's like 5.10a first pitch to Cray's exposed 510a G second pitch.. wild that such a impossible looking roof can be climbed by mortals!!! The gunk's may be the best trad crag in the universe!
Incredible climb!
I am always impressed with your endurance! The one thing I would say is that putting some time in backing off the grade and practicing placing gear, preplanning a rest point, getting to that rest point, setting the feet in the best place to get as much rest as possible and the least amount on the arms, spending as much time needed to preplan placing a piece the first time, where exactly it goes, where exactly it is on your harness, then getting it and placing it the first time. If it doesn't go the first time in the exact place you expected it to go then it is a fail. Stepping up the game on gear placement when it's not critical will pay off big time when your playing for keeps. It also will improve the trad grade you climb, increase your confidence because you know exactly how long it will take to place a piece and how much reserves you have, and it increases your enjoyment because your not fiddling with gear your spending more time climbing with the confidence that the last piece is exactly where you want it and it is the most secure for the giving situation.
Agree I really enjoy the gear planning and execution part of trad climbing. I tend to lead from piece to piece. Sounds like great advice!
Climbing this in one pitch is def a great goal and would be a great test of ones ability to plan ahead and on sighting a route like this close to your limit is safe and fun but could end up being very memorable!!! Rope management cost me the clean send....
That thing looks rad
Was this an instruction video on drag? You crack me up. Oh sh# I lost all my chalk
Love the raw videos ... I don't mind the naysayers. Too many people post clipped down clean music videos, I mean climbing videos ;) I try to post up climbing videos that are all raw and often first attempts for me ... I am sure I will cringe looking back at them a year from now :)
The adventure is real in raw footage ... You just can't capture the same emotion and struggles on later attempts.
Keep it up. Oh and have you modified your gunks rack ? I am still using a double .2-3 and throw in nuts if I know a route could use them on occasion ... But I also place two pieces for every one you do so lol
Thanks. I have and I was just talking to a friend of mine the other day about updating the "Building a rack" video in the interest in seeing how it has evolved. The big changes are I started using X4's in place of my TCU's and I switched out the type of runner I use.
Love the stuff you've been putting up BTW, Keep it up and Electric Motorcycles? No lie, I built one a few years ago off a Suzuki GS500 frame.
Epic! I am at the point where I could build an EV bike if I wanted to but have other projects to attend to. Ironically my ICE bike videos have the most views in my videos :/ My heavily modified zero motorcycle has served me well but I am considering getting a ZEV scooter as my next EV since I mainly commute (13.5k miles year round in east coast weather even :) )
I have largely stopped using my C4's and the few x4's i have, I only seem to use them for size 3+ and when I am training new leaders ... i should do a this is my "beginner" rack video for those scaredy cats who have been only trad climbing < 1 year ...
As for my videos i am just trying to chronicle my trad journey (at this point I climb more trad than anything else outside) and make my local crag more accessible to new leaders. So this also means updating content on mountain project and creating topo maps as well as reaching out at local gym events to promote trad climbing :D
Did you document your GS500 build? I have seen a couple of them online and some even using Lithium cells.
Nice!
One definitely needs to split the pitch off the grant traverse ledge into two, taking a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse left under the roof. At the very least double ropes are a must for safety, lest one be unable to move as one is finishing the final pitch, which meanders first left, back right, then back left, not to mention the roof itself.
The climber showed excellent control hanging from the lip of the roof after the traverse and protecting it. One might be tempted to get on with it, but without that protection a full be quite serious, considering the protection under the roof might be less than bomber for holding a pretty hard fall with the last line of resort being the belayer in the corner.
Definitely agree, combining everything was a poor decision on my part.
Give Teeny face (5.10a) a try! It's an overlooked Trapps route that has a super classic second pitch
Teeny face has become one of my new favorite routes. Great little roof move and then AMAZING face climbing in-between gear with clean fall potential. It's super fun to plug gear and go and then remain cool while placing the next piece. Despite it having a little run out reputation it's super safe. Gear exactly where you need it and clean falls best 40ft of climbing at the grade on perfect rock!!
great video! Was it a better stance sidepulling where there appears to be a bomber hand jam? at the pin you rested on it looks like theres a thank-god hand jam to sink your wrist into that could have given you some rest. dunno though, the video could be playing tricks on me
Maybe if I was better at hand jams, that would work. ;) The rest was more of a mental break then a physical one. It's only another 2 moves and things get a little more comfortable.
FirstPersonBeta for sure, that route looks super taxing mentally and physically. Awesome effort man, you're a strong climber! Been watching your videos since just about the beginning and am always thinking "jam dude! It would be so much easier!" Might be time to get jamming technique down :) Anyways, keep sending hard man, Love the channel
vipe103 haha I was thinking the same thing!
wow :) i see you falling for the first time
Do you bring that cordelette up there in case the rappel stand is damaged ?
Handy for just about anything so good to have around.
Is there a reason for you to put your quickdraws in to the slinga of old CAMs stuck in the Wall? It seems that it Would be a lot safer to put it in to the actual loop of the cam since UV and general weather affect textile way more.
+Petter Sundberg you're probably right though the first fixed piece I clipped into I'm unsure I could have reached the thumb loop and the second peice was in the back of a pretty big roof. By habit, I tend to avoid connecting hard points.
I used to think that clipping the loop in old gear was best too but apparently that isn't a good idea it weakens the cam by a decent amount. Check out "how not 2" youtube channel...sewn slings are super strong so even old ones are prob ok...
My hands were sweaty the entire time.
Is there a reason you don’t hand jam? Seems like there were some bomber jams that could have been used to save your strength but you chose not to.
Im climbing this route for the first time this weekend and I am quite nervous.
Split it up belaying in the corner after the crab crawl crux. The roofs have good golds but it feels much longer than it looks. Have fun big holds await!!
the 2 fixed cams , are the ystill there ?
I can’t believe you sat on that shit pin at the top.
Imagine the fall you would have taken if that fixed gear you clipped didn't hold? Awesome video
Thanks. It crossed my mind but honestly, I'm not sure I could have reached up high enough to get anything else in that crack and I didn't realize I could get a #3 in until after I had already attempted the crux once. Fortunately, the .4 at 2:16 is pretty bomber but it still would have been a ride.
FirstPersonBeta still extremely impressive climb, 10D overhanging trad link up is mad impressive.
That 1st crux sucks if you are tall and you must be (I’m 6’3” ) I have always belayed from just a bit left and down from that same crux, where there is a good ledge, better than the GT imo. Great work!
that first crux at 7:30 gave me Nam-like flashbacks of the final move on this route: czcams.com/video/O2lkkATHyRw/video.html
exactly the same!
I was also under impression that you've used too much gear after the optional ancor.
Or maybe, that's just not a trad mindset of mine
Great vid man! ... and that may be the first time someone has called me out on using to much gear!
ever have to bail on a route yet that you couldn't make? what's the standard procedure for that?
Not yet. In general, I'm only getting on stuff I know I can get to the top of and I'm by no means above aiding up anything.
@@FirstPersonBeta gotcha, also I'm a new trad climber and I'm petrified of building an anchor with just gear and not having bolts to clip to. Any chance of a possible video tutorial in the future building one? Think it could be helpful for a lot of people
Why do you climb with single rope?
What I had but you're absolutely right in that a 2 half ropes (doubles) would be a much better way to do this pitch.
Much better to split the last pitch in 2, belaying in the corner. the drag can be quite serious and dangerous.