Hayward Vari-Flo XL Valve Repair (Sand Filter)
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this video, I service the Hayward Vari-Flo XL valve (model SP714T) on a sand filter (model S210T). I show how to disassemble the valve to replace and lubricate the gaskets.
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This tutorial left out a very important part. During disassembly and re-assembly setting and ensuring proper key valve orientation.
You have a 50/50 shot at getting it right. I got it wrong the first time and needed to reverse the handle.
the little black flat gasket is for the "see through" glass that you view the water with during backwash operations.
Good video, replacing my gaskets now. Cleaned and lubed the handle... was cruddy, now moves freely, reassembling...
OMG! What a difference this made. Thank you for this video. My valve handle had completely seized and water was leaking excessively around the sand filter. I must admit, getting the handle pin back in just about did me in. I only had hand squeeze clamps, and as a smaller person with much less hand strength, it was quite the challenge. Once I reinstalled everything, the handle turned so freely I thought maybe I did something wrong and it wasn’t operating properly, but it works! I’m so very excited. Thank you again.
Happy to hear. Glad it worked for you. Thanks! 😊
HandyDad, thank you for showing me the clamp and wood trick! So much more secure than STEPPING on the valve to attach the handle.
Which is what I'm doing now cause I don't have those. lol
You saved me a lot of money on a pool company fixing this valve. Thank you
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for posting. I watched another video from a pool store they said we should only be turning the dial clockwise. Hence our problem.
I saw nothing on the inside of the valve that would suggest it needs to be turned in a certain direction. My issue was just being lazy and turning it while the pump is running. Learned my lesson.
While there’s no “actual directions” that say you must *only* turn the handle one way, it helps AND it’s a trick for maintaining a longer lasting seal. It is equally as important to make sure you don’t just turn off the pump quickly change the settings.. you want the water being pumped to come to a complete stop! If you change multi-port valve settings too fast, you will eventually regret it later as the seal can be pushed out Pausing for a few minutes between settings allows the dirt and stuff churning around in the tank to settle. This helps keep tank debris (such as sand) from getting inside the port gasket. The goal here is to keep the gasket working correctly for a longer period of time.
Good video, helped a lot. One suggestion is I've been instructed that you should always turn the handle in the same direction and that it doesn't matter which direction you choose. The "spider" gasket is less likely to buckle by doing so.
Having taken the valve apart myself, I can say there is nothing about the design that suggests it would benefit from turning in the same direction all the time. It doesn't matter.
My issue was caused by my own laziness: I operated the valve without first turning off the pump.
@@handydadtv, I agree. You are a thinking man.
Very good video. Hayward recommend the spider gasket is glued in with semi permanent gasket sealer. - Permatex No 2 non-hardening Form-A-Gasket Sealant. This discourages it from happening again.
I read somewhere that you should only use glue if the previous one was glued.
Thank you DAD!!! I
Everyone was telling me to spend 100.00 on a replacement head bc of the pain in getting the pin out..... I watched your video! Went to Home Depot, bought 2 C Clamps for 17.00 each and BOOOOOOMMMM! It came off with no prob
And now you'll have two C-clamps for the rest of your life! Nice going.
yeah 17+17+20=54$ plus labor and aggravation and maybe might not work properly vs 90$ for a new one install and done!@@handydadtv
Great stuff. Parts ordered, hopefully my repair will go as smoothly as yours.
Hope so. 🤞🏻
Take the pin out before you loosen the screws. This will keep the spring compressed.
Thanks
Great video! The local pool “experts” told me to turn the multi port valve in the same direction - with the pump off - each time or I’ll have problems with the gasket.
...what was freely given, I freely give! Hahaha
News to me. Thanks.
I don't know about having to rotate the valve in the same direction... It doesn't say that anywhere on the valve, and since a "PROFESSIONAL pool company" that was hired to open the in ground pool that was at the customers newly purchased house by the previous owner talked the customer into abandoning the original, albeit older, D.E. filter in favor of a sand filter anyone could buy on amazon for about $300 which they happily sold him for around $600 (+ $250 in labor and miscellaneous parts, etc) based on the fact that sand is better because it's easier to maintain, cheaper to operate, and inability to repair the d.e. due to lack of available.parts because 9 filter is so old- prompting me to go online and find every part the filter could possibly need ... They neglected to mention the$600 profit they'd make as a selling point.. but I digress.. my point is that never applied the operators manual... I guess they assumed they'd be hired to do anything it needs and the manual would only confuse the owner.. my other point is I've seen it mentioned in yt videos that it's important to operate the valve in the same direction all the time, never been told that by Hayward, but it's something I'm going to research for sure... NOTE,:It IS labeled and stamped on the valve that the valve should only ever be operated with the pump turned OFF... That IS necessary to avoid damaging the valve... The pump pushes some serious water they that valve and the pressure of the water could absolutely unseat the spider gasket should it be allowed to get under it. I've known that for at least 40 years because of having a pool growing up. It just seemed like common knowledge but I can see where it's anything but common knowledge to someone who's never owned a pool or doesn't have any experience with filters and multiport valves.
It's also worth mentioning that in every other video, the gasket is"glued" to the seat with silicone or gasket cement which must be thoroughly removed when removing the old gasket and must be reapplied when installing a new gasket and allowed to dry for 24hours before operating or using the valve.. this guy doesn't mention cementing the new one or removing all taxes grim the old one before installing the new gasket... I'm almost shocked his installation worked without gluing the gasket in place.
I read you should only use glue if your original was glued. Mine wasn’t.
Thanks for the great video. Going to rebuild my pump.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Remove the handle while its still installed so the spring is already compressed.
Good idea
Nice video. It would be good to wear safety glasses when working with spring components.
Pool shops and other YT vids mention adhering (gluing/gasket sealant) the bottom surface of the gasket that goes into base housing slot/channel, letting it set/dry for 24 hours and then lubing the top surface of the gasket before placing the switch cap.
That makes sense if the original was glued. Mine wasn’t.
Really great video! thanks... my discharge port is leaking a small amount of water and I suspect that replacing the seal will solve that problem. Not that I see how it works I am going to order the replacement part and give it a go. THANKS!
Good plan to buy it before you REALLY need it.
Great video! Thanks for including the links to the products. I already the lube and ironically, my name is Jack. lol But, I was certain on which gasket to order, super helpful man!!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Just spent 5+ mins to dig out, tiny bit at a time the white spider gasket on my 4 yr old valve head. So far I have about 1/2" out of one channel. These were glued in from the factory? Insane...
Some models are glued. I was lucky.
I tried for about 30 mins and gave up. Just bought a new key assy. Another question - How did you orient the key to the top. The top of my handle shaft has a small raised (didn't see the same on your demo) key on one side but the handle works in both orientations. Sadly I didn't pay attention when I disassembled it, was expecting a one way key...
Found answer (I hope) - Handle position key must be pointed directly over the open port through the key.
You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. I got it wrong. You can tell it’s backwards if water comes out multiple places at the same time.
Quite a few gaps in your inx there buckshot like when you release the clamp and take the spring out and when reassempled turning it manually to see if it works and finally when the pump is installed the tight squeaking which it should not do hence the reason for replacing the guts in the first place. When the pump was new it never made that squeaking noise and operated smoothly which to me indicates some friction occuring with the stem that the spring surrouds. $90 to replace whole valvevs $20 for gasket kit seems like a bargain based on the work and whether it will function like a new one.
Far from new but it fixed my issue.
well I did the whole take apart accept for removing the pin from the handles and replacing the washer my seal (bottom multi section one) is showing sign of wear so I cleaned it and siliconed it and also used a plactic safe spray all around spring under the handle and into the stem that the handle pulls up inside the spring. Reattached and it is operating smoothly now no sticking or squeaking plus handle operates freely up and down. Remains to be seen next season if the seal does in fact need to be replaced but that is all I would do and not bother with removing the handle etc.
great vid man cheers, dont have that kit in Canada amazon, but at least now i know which one i need.
👍🏻
I wasn't always good about turning the pump off either when moving the handle. I am changing that myself.
Hello! I hope all is well with you. Thank you for making a very informative video! I am wondering if you can make a video explaining in detail about how and what tools you used to remove the molded spider gasket from the diverter the first time. I have the same exact part as you, but my gasket is not budging at all and yours came out very easily making me think you have previously been able to remove the molded spider gasket in the past in order to be able to replace them in the future.
Mine wasn’t glued. Perhaps you can find another video that shows how to replace a glued one.
@@handydadtv Thank you so much for your response!
Thank you so much this really helped me!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
After I went ahead and ordered a new gasket, I discovered that Hayward wants you to replace the entire diffuser with the gasket already glued in (part # SPX714CA). I'm hoping that just seating the new gasket as shown in this video works. Can anyone report that this fix still holds after a year or two?
I don’t know why some are glued and some aren’t. Mine wasn’t glued and it was still working a couple years later when I sold the house and moved.
But the lesson I learned was to religiously turn off the pump before moving the handle. Each and every time. I believe that was the root cause of the gasket failure.
Thank you. Just the info I needed.
Glad it was helpful
Question. When putting it back together, there are two ways to point the handle (maybe Filter or backwash) How do you know which direction to place the handle so it aligns with the gasket, before putting the pin in?
You have a 50-50 chance of getting it right.
I got it wrong and had to reverse it.
Great video, thanks for the info. Do you know how often the valve seal should normally be changed?
As needed. I wouldn’t change it proactively.
Im having an issue matching the exact part number. Your lable matches exactly to mine but i couldn't see the actual model number where your label rolled up. Finding/matching this online is same problem. My label actually says, varo-flo xl sp0714g11m and my spider gasket looks like yours and is white also.
Sorry I can’t help. I sold that house in 2020.
@@handydadtv No problem, thanks for the reply.
Shoooot... Mine is glued in like a mofo.... I'm picking it out piece by piece... Hopefully it works if not... I guess I'm buying the whole assembly
Sorry
Anyone deal with an issue of water coming from up around the handle after reinstalling? It’s slow but it leaks consistently
I didn’t have that issue.
Awesome it’s fixed thank you
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
No shaft seals in the kit? Wow, that's crappy since you took it apart and were unable to change those two o-rings. Thumbs up on using two clamps to make the job easier.
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks - I have to rebuild mine too...wow are we ALL lazy about shuttng the pump off? -lol
Accurate
I don't lubricate the spider gasket or its mating surface so dirt doesn't attach to it.
Dirt and sand pinched by the gasket is what causes leaks and end up ruining the gasket.
I think my failure was caused by turning the valve without stopping the pump. I got lazy.
thank you ! 😭
A tip you might not know about IF you have 2 skimmers without the ability to turn off one of them via a valve when vacuuming. Get yourself a smooth rubber ball large enough so it can't get sucked into the pipe under the skimmer basket. You will have double the suction for the dreaded spring clean-up. Actually I loved cleaning the pool when I was a teenager the gratification one gets from a nasty dirty pool to a sparkling clean one. To this day i don't understand why living algea passes thru a sand filter and dead algea doesn't. Keep a watchful eye on your pressure 30psi for our pool was clogged if memory serves and 10 to 12 clean. Does that sound right?
Good tip! Yes the pressure sounds about right.
When I remove the top portion to replace the valve water pours out of the filter. Is that supposed to happen? I am thinking it isn't since I see no water come out of yours when you take it off. Are you plugging the lines from the pool first that you're not showing? Any help from anyone would be appreciated.
If you have an above-ground pool, plug the lines.
I'm not really mechanically inclined, so do you think it would make sense for me to replace the large o-ring and the spider gasket, and see if that works (before trying the rest of the steps?). I also noticed that there is a Hayward SPX0714CA
Key Seal Diverter Assembly with the spider gasket already installed (about $35). Maybe this would be better?
What problem are you trying to fix?
Silly question before I do this myself this weekend (Mine is an above ground pool, but a similar filter and assembly):
Should I be plugging up the skimmer with the plate and the return with the screw-in plug before taking the top valve assembly off the filter? I'm not sure if water would flow out the top of the valve or not since I've never opened one up myself.
Plug the skimmer and return or you’ll drain the pool.
HandyDadTV figured about as much but was worth checking. Thanks!
My problem is water leaking no matter which port the key was on. Mostly on the backwash port. About how often do you get a comment about a bad spring? My valve handle doesn't seem to spring back when changing ports. I can't compress the spring much at all. The Spider gasket seems to be in it's place though. The white key cover looks like it needs to be replace which is no longer flat. Need to rebuild or buy another key valve replacement? Modle#SP0714C
Great video - sounds like exactly our problem! Any advice if the spider gasket is so dry rotted you can barely get it out?
I’ve heard some are glued, but never dry rotted. Either way, scrape it gently and try not to damage the plastic. If the repair doesn’t work, the valves are around $100 online and $175 retail.
Awesome video!
Thanks 😊
You never want to turn the selector handle backwards/counterclockwise. It will damage the gasket.
That's news to me. Damage is primarily caused by not turning off the pump.
@@handydadtv I agree. Either direction, it shouldn't matter
Spider gasket is supposed to be glued to the filter
I read there are different kinds, not all are glued. Mine wasn’t.
I had the same problem, when I remove my valve to replace the gasket; the Spider gasket was glued on , took me 2 hr. to get the gasket off and cleaned to put the new one on ; ????
Ugh that sucks
You can also purchase a whole new bottom end assembly with the spider gasket molded to it for about the same price as the rebuild kit on Amazon. I'm currently waiting on mine.
Can you please help me. I install a whole new gasket assembly with all new rings and gaskets and put it in just as oh showed but no when I put it in filtration, water and sand still come out the waste hose.
The handle is probably pointing the wrong way. Take it apart and reattach the handle in the opposite direction.
my pool keeps getting sand back in it. I checked the laterals and the multi port valve and it all looks good. What do you suggest?
Call a pro.
After backwashing, make sure you use the RINSE setting. This will re-settle the sand after stirring it up during the backwashing. RINSE for about 30-60 seconds or until sight glass water appears clear. Then turn off pump and re-adjust filter settings back to FILTER mode and restart pump.
Excellent!
Thanks
Did you remove the original white gasket. I didn’t see that in the video although it’s in the picture of your video.
Yes I removed the original to replace it.
@@handydadtv did you have to pry it out. That gasket isn’t meant to be replaced. Hayward expects you to buy an entire new plastic piece. They don’t make a replacement. Any issues with your filter since you changed it. Thanks.
Others have said their gaskets were glued (probably to prevent the issue). But mine wasn’t glued. I just pulled it off and put in the new one. I moved two years ago but the new owner hasn’t had any issues with this gasket.
@@handydadtv Yeah, I've heard that if the one you are replacing isn't glued, then you don't have to glue it (for some models), however if the one you are replacing is glued, then you have to glue the replacement. You can use super glue or a 3M glue. Small dabs at the cross sections and middle of each line. Don't glue the entire thing because it will be a pain in the ass to get out again.
Handydad, thanks for the vid. I suddenly had a leak, big one, coming out my main drain line and a ton of sand coming out the returns and I think it may be my gasket. I am going to check my spider gasket and see if this is the culprit. Same valve as yours the Vari-Flo XL, so thanks again for the video. I think the only thing I wouldn't have done was grease the gasket, but I seriously doubt that hurt anything. Might attract some sand, or maybe not.
Also, looking at my manual for the filter the part list shows a 1 and 1/2 " Vari-flo valve and a 2" Vari-Flo valve. Any idea which one yours was by any chacne?
Anyway, take care.
Mine was 1.5”
Was your original gasket white and you replaced it with a black one?
I'm being told i have to replace entire valve head
Yes original was white and the new one is black. For 20 bucks, try this first.
How do you know which side to put the handle on?
You have a 50/50 shot at getting it right the first time. I got it wrong and needed to reverse it.
Thanks!
Glad it helped.
Do I need to drain the water level down below the skimmer/intake to take this top off?
No.
Thanks I had the same question - doing this tomorrow when the parts arrive. Wish me luck!
Thank you so much! I think I will order the parts then too, and tackle it now rather than wait until end of season.
But you do need to block the flow of the water at the skimmer or somewhere up the line! Just figured that part out!
That’s what I was thinking too Sheila, how did you end up block it off?
Warning!!! Forgot the most important part for longevity. Where's the adhesive that's needed for the spider gasket? Without it, valve leakage is assured sooner rather later.
They don’t all get glued. My original had no glue so I didn’t glue the replacement.
Thanks for the video at the end I notice your triangular-shaped vacuum on the top can you help me find one like?
Sorry. I got that with the house and don’t have a link.
What was the name of your valve, and what model number was it.
It’s called a Vari-Flo XL. The model number is worn off.
it seems to depend on the valve. We have an SP0714t1 spider valve (also sp714t or sp0714t). this video was a really promising lead! but after a bit more digging into my specific valve model it seems likely that the gasket is manufactured onto the valve and sealed with silicone. Which seems to imply that the gasket isn't a replaceable part. I still need to open up my valve to see but maybe you're reaching the same conclusion as me?
I thought the spider gasket has to be glued, cmiiw.
Mine was not
@@handydadtv Its in tiki's guidance on amazon web.
DO NOT wait to replace the gasket until it is bad. By the time that happens, the heat from the Sun has already melted the gasket and mated it to the surface of the valve. And trust me, it's a giant pain in the ass to clean/remove all the old gasket. Better to spend $10 every 2 years buying a new gasket. If you're really frugal, than every so often open up the valve, say every 3-4 weeks and remove the gasket, wash it with warm water only and pop it back in. This should prevent the gasket from getting permanently stuck.
Thanks for the advice.