Woodworking Tricks You'll Actually Use || Helpful Woodworking Hacks
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Tip: You should always leave driver tips and marking pencils in your pockets so they get clean in the washer, and make the dryer sound extra cool with all the extra clanging.
As an appliance repair guy, I don't like you.
@@kirkusmigirkusBut you should! More money in your pocket. LOL
This has the added benefit of making your wife yell at you so you have an excellent excuse to drink more beers.. 😂🎉😂
I let my wife sort them into a giant bin of bits, coins and screws right next to the laundry machine. That way I can eventually get fed up and throw them all away right before I need them.
My wife is yelling at you now instead of me!
One tip I picked up after watching a few of your cabinet videos - where possible, work in common dimensions. E.g. Cut all widths of the same size on the table saw at the same time. Then move to cutting all heights at the same time.
Another tip I have - on your mitre saw, sometimes you need to cut a repeated length for a few pieces (for example the bottom piece of a cabinet), and then you need to cut other pieces (like some supports along the back and top of the cabinet) that may need to be shorter - accounting for the thickness of the side pieces because the sit inside the side pieces (hopefully that made sense). When I do this, I cut the repeated cuts using using a stop on my mitre saw fence, and then I place two scrap pieces of the timber I’m using against my stop and cut the other pieces. This effectively removes the thickness I’m accounting for without needing to measure again.
The nail gun tip is a game changer
When I was a kid, we used to take wax paper and rub it on our metal slide. It was a game changer.
Same. My mom used to keep wax paper and old soft drink cups (this was the '80s; IDK if they still use wax now) in the car for when we went to the park. We'd sit on them and go down the slide. A few trips down and you'd be at risk of breaking an ankle on the dismount!
Why do I have the sledding scene from National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation in my mind now? 😄
So you score the chisels, the bevel will get steeper as you wear out the blade
Yeah exactly. I have a block with markings on it instead. I butt the edge of the jig against the edge of my block and then extend the blade to the marking. Does the exact same thing and I'm not marring the surface of my chisels.
Every 100 +/- some sharpenings, scribe a fresh line, it's not difficult
A friend of mine just marks out the lengths on a piece of scrap wood. As a bonus, changing jigs just means tossing that piece and marking out a new one.
When I wipe off Rubio Monocoat, I make a last wipe with a microfiber cloth without pressing. That removes any pigment excess, no matter they are in cracks or in tight angles. This ensures the whole finish is made of one single thin coat, better drying, better render. Greetings from France
8:49... Was I the only one expecting him to wipe his hat with his actual beard?
Ha!!! that was the first thing I thought of
Kind of disappointed he didn't, actually.....
Back in the day, we would take a screwdriver and wrap it several times with wire and then touch both ends of the wire to the battery terminals to magnetize it. 👍🏼
I’d always wondered what the jointer would do to my fingers, handy tip!
Wonder what one takes them off cleaner,the spiral blades or the straight knives
I saw this happen when I was an apprentice back around 1975. Another apprentice was jointing plastic laminate edge banding to apply to a rabbetted edge. His fingers slipped down the banding and took two of his finger tips clean off. It was a busy commercial shop and those blades were honed sharp daily. Good lesson learned! Work smarter@
@@paulkribbs1701they both do a tidy job but the spiral takes a lot longer to get the slices out of all the corners if you don’t get it cleaned up before it dries. 👍
That was the most entertaining ad for Square Space that i have ever seen!
That was your smoothest entrance to date 10/10 🎉
They're harder to come by now-a-days but a newspaper works well as a strop
Love the tips videos, thanks!
Good to see the tips back, cheers Jason.
The easiest way to remove glue squeeze out in my experience is a thin line of paste (or bees) wax on the sides of squeeze out before glue up. Let it cure and simply scrape it off with 1 pull. Even a plastic scraper leaves a glue free surface.
Oh yeah, lots of good stuffs. I’ll try em. First hydration cover.
There were some good tips in here! Thanks 👍
I learned this when I was a cabinet maker at a small custom shop.
If you are building casegoods and cut a panel, stretcher or other lumber part just slightly smaller than the other pieces, use a piece of iron on edgeband to "shim" out the short piece. If it's a painted cabinet then this can be useful on all faces. If it's stained or clear coat then you'll need to make sure the edgeband isn't going to create an odd shadow line.
I definitely didn’t know about the nail gun one. Thank you!
This is a tip everyone figures out the hard way. I'm glad you learned before you messed up a job.
@@christopherpavlicas oh no, I’ve definitely messed this up several times. I just thought I sucked at getting the nail gun parallel lol
Tape measure trick is awesome
Thanks! Ray
Thanks for a fun "Tips & Tricks" video. I have used the magnetizer for decades and am surprised how many of my experienced DIY friends have never seen it. Works great. Also, for quick touch-ups on the beds of your tools, try neutral Kiwi shoe polish. It doesn't take up any room and contains carnauba, paraffin and microcrystalline waxes.
I've got a small tip to go along with the little magnetizer thing. If you don't have one of those handy but you need to get a screw into an awkward spot and you happen to have some gum you've actually got something that will work.
Chew the gum a little until it's not super mushy and pinch off a tiny piece. Then you stick that into the slot on the head of the screw and it should be sticky enough for the bit to hold onto it until you get it into place.
I wouldn't do this much in woodworking unless the screw isn't going to be really visible as it's sometimes hard to get the gum back out of the slot. Chewing gum like Wrigley's seems to work a little better because it's firmer but it likes to stay stuck more. Bubble gum like Dubble Bubble works too but it doesn't like to hold as well which actually makes it easier to clean off.
I know this is just a silly little trick but maybe somebody will read it and it'll help them out in the future.
The gum trick is a neat idea, actually. What I do is find a spare magnet (the rare earth ones work best) and slap it to the shaft of the drill or bit, and then the whole thing acts like a magnet. When you pull the magnet off, there's virtually no permanent effect. Also, the rare earth ones don't tend to fly off when the drill gets up to driving speed.
If you don’t have gum or a magnet, you can stick the screw thru a piece of masking tape and tape it to your bit
@@user-ow7fq8bo1q that's actually pretty genius and I would never have thought of it on my own.
I learned my trick messing with electronics like where you're trying to get the shell back on an N64 controller but you've gotta hold it in a certain orientation to keep everything from falling out of place so that might have not worked as well. Once I learned it, I never needed to learn a new trick because I've always managed to either find some gum or just brute force my way through.
I'm keeping your trick in the back of my mind though!
@@mattelias721 that's a really good idea as well!
I tend not to have magnets around though. Also, (like I mentioned in the other reply) I learned this messing with electronics and I have a pathological fear of having magnets near technology. I know most modern tech isn't bothered by magnets but I ruined two PS1 memory cards and two CRT TVs with magnets back in the 90s. I disappointed my uncle and lost a deep save in FF7 along with other games on the memory cards and made playing games a lot harder with the TVs so I just don't do it.
This is just personal to me but since I'm over-sharing, every time I see a DIY project or hack with magnets, I immediately dismiss that part because I know I'm not messing with them. Magnets go on the fridge and literally nowhere else for me. I won't even buy magnetic screwdrivers or driver bits if I know they're magnetic.
@@CeeJayThe13th That sounds like a painful mistake, dude...! I work with wood, so I'm far less worried about what the magnets do to that material.
Rock on!
Fantastic video!!
For squeeze-out, I use a triangular paint scraper. Rockler sells one for $18 with multiple heads, but you can find a cheap one elsewhere. Allows you to get in those corners without having to scrape away the wood. Especially important when working with plywood. I do this every day at work.
Squarespace better pay you well for that ad at the end
Good tips.
Nice trick with the brad nailer. For glue squeeze out, I'll grab my chisel plane to get into the corner really tight. For the planer, I just use a melamine board which helps with snipe and has little friction for wood to run through.
Similar to the half-lap machine setup, when cutting mortises and tenons using the table saw, always cut from one side then flip the piece and cut the other side to keep the mortises and tenons perfectly centered.
The magnetiser works by aligning the particles in the steel to make them magnetic. If you pick up some metal shavings that are all over the place with something magnetic you’ll see it on a larger scale as they will usually stand on end. I’m not 100% sure about the demagnetiser but I’d say it’s safe to assume it works by making the particles face in all sorts of directions
Great channel 👌
The brad nailer. Genius!
I've now seen two youtubes who had incidents with that helical-head joiner. One lost part of a finger, once lost three fingers. That thing is no joke.
Looking forward to getting a bourbon blade when I get back from Italy.
Nooice!
Omg the Brad nailer trick! I never knew that.
I needed that wax paper tip!
As a guitarist, I really appreciated the jointer tip.
the way you handle that nailer reminds me of what happened to erin in final destination 3.
6:40 there's just one problem: as that chisel gets shorter, the angle will get steeper.
i'd just set a stop block at 20 inches. way more consistent.
Same with the marks but I figure it’s for people who aren’t going to get to that point. That or they progress and their ability goes beyond needing it.
Tips worthy of a snack for the algo
I use balsa wood with a polishing compound for my strop. It works great.
Try corrugated cardboard. Thank me later.
To get a clean and uniform cut line on your sparkling water can, screw a utility knife blade to a scrap piece of wood whose thickness is the height of where you want to cut. If you project the tip of the blade out over the edge of the wood you have a perfect slicer, just put the can against it and turn it to have a nice even cut all around.
You can also remove squeeze out with a plastic straw cut on a bias while it is still wet/damp. Works great! I keep a bunch of straws on my shop.
Was going to write this!
I think he had that in another tips & trick video
@@iambear.6526 I never remember where I get the idea, so I'm horrible at giving credit where it is due.
Silly Washington has outlawed straws. Now have to smuggle them into my shop.
I got a brand new brad nailer. Its a nice trick for this. Thanks Mate
Use a vacuum to clean tools, don't use compressed air as it blows the dust and dirt inside the tool, switches, motors, etc possibly damaging parts and shortening the life of the tool.
I was building walnut hexagon shelves the other day and said “ man, would it be nice to have dark glue” I poured enough for the glue up in a small container and mixed two drops of epoxy dye and mixed up. It worked great.
I think buying dark glue is a waste. Make your own 😘
15:40. Why would you put a sparkling water sleeve over sparkling water?
And if you buy Athletic brand "sparkling water," it still tastes like "sparkling water" but has the same kind of kick as actual sparkling water!
so, when you score your chisel, after you sharpen a few times, that depth will need to change has you remove material. not a good idea to score it.
Yeah, I was thinking this too -- it actually changes the angle over time. The better way is to create a jig that lets you set your honing guide at a specific projection from it.
It’s not changing enough to make a significant difference over time. You’ll be doing a lot of work and honing before you remove the mms of material it’ll take to make a meaningful difference in angle. We aren’t making rockets here. As long as the angle is low enough to cut and high enough not to fold on the wood you are using it on, it’s good.
Not to mention you might want to have a quick honing set up at hand and now you need jigs everywhere just to keep things sharp. Marking the blade works just fine and only needs updating occasionally. And it’s easy and flexible.
Your removing microns at a time....unless you hit a nail and are rebuilding the bevel from scratch it's going to take a long time filer that line to change v
For glue clean up I take a straw cut a 45. Works beautiful
15:00
a magnet by itself can do this, those oldschool u shaped ones work best.
Another good trick for glue squeeze out in tight corners is to use a plastic straw to scrape it away before it dries. If you fold the straw you'll be able to make a sharp corner that removes all the glue. You'll probably still want to scrap it after in case there's any invisible residue but it'll make that task a lot quicker.
Excellently entertaining video. Doesn't matter if you already knew these or not. Here's a couple tips I'll share.
Keep a chunk of bee's wax handy and drag your wood screws through before screwing them in. Helps lubricate and makes it easier to screw them in.
Put a piece of blue tape down along the length where you are brad nailing, and nail through the tape. Fill the set holes, scrape off the excess, and then remove the tape. In most cases, this will eliminate 99.9% of the glue leaving only a tiny bit to sand level.
Note: I didn't invent these tips. I learned about them from someone else, like my dad.
Good tips. Follow up question: Where do you buy your chunks of bees. And do you wear protective gear to prevent stings? 😜
@@SweetSillyFun Ah, yes. Good questions. One day, after leaving a window open while working in my shop, the sound of my table saw drew a swarm of bees in. They set up a hive under the saw and mind their own business until I need them. When I'm going to be doing some assembly, I just grab a chuck of them - yes, perhaps a bunch would have been a better word - and put them in my apron. They seem content there and are willing to come out and lubricate the screws whenever I need them.
Thanks for asking.
Love the video, as usual. A perfect blend of useful tips and tricks, comedy, and sarcasm.
Question: A few of your mockups for the bourbon blade featured a black or gun blued chisel blade. Will you be releasing this as an option later?
Lie Nielsen has free plans for an angle-setting jig that will work for every standard angle, will stay accurate as you continue sharpening your chisel or plane irons, and it's quite easy to make. That said, I love this angle finder trick for if you're out of the shop or cant find your jig.
Safe table rollin after a few good sparklilng waters...NIOCE :)
Actual hat brushes are a thing. But unless you're into felt hats, you probably don't know..
You can use any strong magnet to magnetize ferrous metals. Just stroke the magnet in the same direction a few times. To demagnetize, just swirl the magnet around it in a semi-random direction.
When you first start to sharpen anything, whether a chisel or plane blade or knife, put some ink on the edge from a marking pen. Then do your setup and take a couple of strokes and look at the edge of the tool under magnification to see if you are taking off the ink right where you need to be sharpening. This will let you know if you are off a tiny bit.
For setting the chisel angle just take a piece of plywood and with your chisel in the honing guide at the proper angel just glue a stop onto the plywood at the distance for each. Then all you need to do is put your chisel partially into the honing guide and but it up against the plywood and push the chisel until it hits the stop block and tighten it down.
Some nice tricks. Waiting for my knife/chisel or chisel/knife or chisel or knife. It will arrive way after my birthday
Tip: empty ketchup, mustard etc bottles make excellent resealable glue bottles! Ps.. make sure the bottles are clean.
I just sat down with a good Irish whiskey on a Saturday night and see a new Bourbon Moth Video came out 5 mins ago, Life couldn't be better
Best Woodworking Tips video yet! LMAO
Tape measure pencil trick is genius.
If you're concerned about glue squeeze out in the corner of pieces, I saw a good tip a while back. Place some painters tape along the edge before you assemble the pieces. Then any glue that squeezes out will be removed when you remove the tape
Just instantly bought the magnetic thing need that
Being not a woodworker, I've been using the air hose trick all my life. And as soon as you said "A really good tip" at the jointer I said don't stick your *ick ticklers in there. Turns out you already knew that tip. Love the can tip. I was lazy and just poured up in a different can.
Okay, legit the chisel into a card scraper trick is really good to know.
Love the can trick ❤. I have to wait until I can get a bourbon moth blade but I want one. God Bless.😊 where’s your foreman?… miss him 😊
“This is a cheap $18 chisel I use just for this”
- me looking at my entire Dewalt chisel set that’s not even that good
I bought one good chisel and the rest are cheap. The higher end one feels fantastic, but I don’t notice a significant difference in edge retention after sharpening.
I'm wondering when my Burbon Blade will be delivered....lol. it's been awhile man. I need my blade man !!!
You had me at brad nailer hack
Rubio crack residue… this is worth gold 🤘🔥🤘
We used to used wax paper on the metal slides.
Grub-Screw Drill bit Depth Stop Collars are just as handy for when you're using a chuck that is too deep!
I learned the first trick the hard way .
A link to the chisels and honing gig would be nice!
When it comes to woodworking tips and tricks, I always tell people to stay sharp or they'll end up in a knotty situation!
Wait? you can Clean a hat? Craig said I had to buy a new one every day!
I don't know if I'd ever seen a better ad than your shameless plug. That didn't last long bc the squarespace ad had the most unrelatable metaphors 😂 plus now I wanna check out squarespace
As far as website services go Squarespace is decent. Used it for years to host my photography website. I still had a custom site I worked on for my other projects but using Squarespace for the professional site was great
Scott brown carpentry does the best square space ads 😂
@@natepuksta662 did my comment praising Squarespace get deleted lol wtf
When I was a kid, we used the wax paper trick on sliding boards at the playground to slide faster.
Wood glue and ketchup. I always have the tip of the wood glue bottle hardened with glue. So what I do now, is when I have an empty ketchup bottle (with this anti drip cap) I clean it and fill it up with wood gleu. Works perfect and makes it easy to dose the gleu.
Vic at DownUnderWoodWorks does that and I keep expecting for the glue to come out red.
I have not tried the ketchup (or mustard) bottle trick yet, mainly because I use sriracha bottles - most have that twisty green cap that seals and leaves a tiny amount that you just wipe onto your shirt or pants, like we all do. Sriracha bottles are kind of one-time use for glue, but in my house, there are always sriracha bottles being cleaned out. They also hold the exact amount of the 'standard' Titebond bottle.
you're forgetting to add the blade kerf using the tape trick, all you cuts will be consecutively 1/8" short. and planers are designed to feed the material, you never want to "push" the material through.
Top tip. When starting a project, get about 15 pencils. Leave some at the saw, some where you are working and a few in your pocket. If you look, most likely you already have one in your hand. 😂
Always choose the type with an eraser on the end!
@@robt2151 which end ?
16:00 That's Coors Light . . . The closest thing to water that's called beer.
Natural Light and Miller Light exist and I'd argue are slightly closer, but that's so marginal a difference I couldn't gauge if pressed on it ;D
Also known as porch beer
"Shop's too big, if I walk, the video will be over."
You should have used a wood stretcher for that part at the end. Though I’ve heard they are very expensive and not many people own them.
2:15 "two inches is too long". Tell that to my wife 😭
The can over the can is worthy of Bob and Doug Mckenzie Great white north
I just bought the demagnetizer. Jason, you are funny. Thanks for the video.
Me too 🌞
Brad nailers are predictable, but the depth adjustment changes with almost every type of wood depending on how hard or dense the wood is. Set it for pine and then work on oak or walnut and you get Hangnails. They hang onto the nailer or the head hangs like a willow tree. 😂
It works: in a pinch with a Phillips head put a bit of spit on or lick the head of the screw and put it on the driver. It's not a perfect solution and doesn't always work but when it does it's magic.
Ha! I inherited an antique pair of clothes brushes and they also do this beautifully! I wonder why they stopped making them?
When you start sharpening a chisel you should start with the back. The first inch from the tip should be polished from 3,000 to 10,000. This needs to be done once.
Wouldn't the scoring marks become obsolete over time as the chisels lose length over repeated sharpenings? Particularly if you ever have to grind it again?
Scoring the back of the chisel is not a good long-term solution for referencing the sharpening angle. As you use and sharpen the chisel over time, the chisel gets shorter, and the angle becomes steeper.
A better solution is to set the reference angle on your sharpening jig, and measure the distance from the tip of the chisel to the jig. Scribe that distance onto a piece of wood and glue down a stop block. You now have a fixed reference that does not change as the chisel gets shorter.
9:22. Craig does the intro graphics for each segment, doesn’t he?
so the demagnetizer steps work by making the item fall down the steps repeatedly. You start at the top step and push downwards to make it hit every step on the way down. The sure fire way to demagnetize anything is to heat it up or to impact or drop it a bunch.
Leather crafter chiming in. It's odd since I work with leather that I'm advocating for something not leather lol, but if you don't have a strop or a spare piece of leather for your chisel, a piece of corrugated cardboard with some jewelers rouge works really good In a pinch.
when are the 1st round of bourbon blades getting shipped out ?
1. But if you mark a permanent position to set the length for sharpening a chisel what happens over time as the chisel gets shorter.
2. If you mark multiple points to cut along a length you'd have to allow for the blade kerf.
Well your mark will wear off by the time that happens as you are sharpening the back too.
Can't do half laps on my DeWalt table saw cuz the blade height changes slightly whenever I turn it on and haven't figured out how to fix it. Never noticed it until I tried to do some dados on a piece.