How to replace leaking SHARKBITE water heater connector with ball valve DIY
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this video I’ll show you how I changed out a leaking SharkBite water heater connector with integrated ball valve. The connector was leaking in an area that indicated it was a manufacture defect. So I went to my local box store, bought the same one, replaced the faulty connector and returned the defected unit. To my surprise, they don’t give you any hassle and refunded my money back to my card.
Skip ahead:
01:37 - Step 1: Turn off the water
01:45 - Step 2: Turn off the power (breaker)
01:57 - Buying a pressure relief drain pipe
02:45 - Cutting and installing drain pipe
04:23 - Releasing the pressure
06:13 - Removing connector from water heater with adjustable wrench
06:40 - Removing the sharkbite
09:15 - FINALLY removing the sharkbite (MONEY SHOT)
09:56 - Installing new connector
11:33 - Turning water back on
12:50 - Turning power back on (breaker)
SharkBit Connector: amzn.to/3SNFgdF
Kobalt 3-piece Adjustable Wrench Set: amzn.to/3dXUIVV
GoPro Hero 7 Black: amzn.to/3cDjIhY
Camera used: GoPro Hero 7 Black w/ some photos from iPhone X
Editing Software: Final Cut Pro X version 10.4.8
Date of activity: 1/21/2021
Great Video, I've had to remove Sharkbite fittings, and I'm elderly with Arthritis, and it was a horrible struggle.... 👍👍👍
Yeah it’s not easy, even for someone without arthritis.
I'm glad you finally installed that T & P valve pipe on your water heater on this video. NOW YOUR WATER HEATER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE.
Thanks for watching both videos. Yeah, I got that T&P comment a lot so when I did the Sharkbite video I was ready. However, I didn't debur correctly in this video...so on my next Sharkbite video I'll have a good tool. Actually installed a sharkbite shut-off and spigot recently and used sandpaper on the outside....folks didn't like that either. Really need that tool - amzn.to/3TJJkxs
I always mark the pipe before sliding on the connection, and I remove the insert when using copper. Great video..
That's really good advice. I installed a Sharkbite spigot in another video and found out the hardway why it's best to mark it before installing.
some notes: it doesn't look like you had enough slack to insert properly. There is a tool to debur the outside edge of the pipe for proper insertion that wont damage the inner ring AND to mark the proper insertion depth (really helps to see if you're inserted all the way in, and straight), also, the small plastic insert does a nice job on all pipes, in case it is not properly deburred inside.... and last, but not least, why the dangly dirty spider web?
The newer no burst connections are a lot better! If you deal with Sharkbite fittings a lot it’s best to buy a pair of Sharkbite removal pliers! They make taking off Sharkbite fittings a lot easier!
Got my Rheem 50 gallon electric finished up a couple hours ago thanks to your diy installation video. I have the same sharkbite hose with shutoff valve so I'll keep my eyes on it when the washer is going. Luckily mine is also in the garage on concrete, so not a big deal. thanks, subscribed !!!
Awesome! Glad it helped. The comments are scattered with people hating on the Sharkbite. Haha. I’ve had no issues with it since that first one went out after two weeks.
@@weekendhomeprojects great video I just finished installing my water heater today after watching your other video of the water heater instalation and it helped me save 350$ that a local contractor wanted to charge me for instalation and when I showed my wife how easy it is from your video she gave me the green light to do it 👍🏾 so now I'll just keep a eye on that shark bite fitting because I have the exact same one installed
@@By_Any_Means_Necessary awesome!!
You have no slack in those heater supply lines, the number one cause for failure of PEX or Sharkbite connections is having any amount of tension on those connections. Either get longer heater supply lines, add more pipe to your supply line brass or sharkbite, or make a base for your tank to sit on, both will ensure you no longer have tension on those joints.
Thanks
Thanks for showing the struggle.
That chrome piece where the water was coming from just threads on to seal that joint. I had one leak in the same spot. Gently put a pipe wrench on it and turn to the right (just a little) and it should stop. Mine has been in service 6 years now… not a drop since.
I find that this can occur during installation if you bend the flex hard near that collar.
Mine started leaking this week in the same spot 2 weeks after install. The only option at the store was a braided flex pipe option. I hope it holds.
You are missing the expansion water tank conected in an "in line supply and you never will have leak since when water turn hot it expand And the tank absorb the diferences in pressure,if you do not use it them that pressure will be released thru tour home utilities ,expansion tank has a limited pressure calibration until 50 glns,over 50 glns a bigger water tank needs to be installed,the pressure valve over the WH tank is factory calibrate as an emergency release valve so safety is rule number one,in certain states the codes require a checkvalve the at main water home supply meaning that one the water (city psi)come in it never can come out so there is no way that any over pressure that happen in your home will scape to the city the only way is to your home
Rule #1 safety
Thank for your video
Thanks for the comment. I've got a lot of expansion tank comments. I may put one in soon, but didn't in this video because I was just switching everything out like it originally was.
For the future, always set water heater so there is something between concrete and metal. The wires are 220 so it didn't matter what color you put to what both are hot. Glad to see you wearing shoes in this video. lol
Haha, yeah, finally got some shoes on. Yeah, had I to do over I'd bought a pan to put under it. But I was switching it out just like the old one. I thought pans were just for leaks, but now understand it's to prevent the water heater from rusting on the bottom.
I was wondering about that as well. Would a 2ft square sheet of 1/2 plywood work ok as an insulator between the tank and concrete?
Installation instructions to my new electric water heater doesn’t go into detail about this, just mentions a pan in case it is installed in a high risk area (2nd floor etc).
Say your last video on the installation of the water heater and I say hats off. Good thing I saw this video about the defective tube line. I will be calling a plumber to do my install as my wife would ride me like a Gray hound bus for years and on any future projects if this occurrence happened to me.
The reason that pipe likely failed is because I didn’t properly debur the inside and outside of my copper pipe before attaching the sharkbite. There are tools for like $10 on Amazon that do both. That’ll save you about $150 of you decide to do sharkbites over a plumber. Good luck.
Something like this: amzn.to/3TJJkxs
All you had to do was tighten the Chrome piece. Turn it to the right
You do not need the plastic insert when hooking up to copper pipe. push it in until you hear the second click
You are supposed to take out the little plastic piece when you put to copper leave in when it's for a pex
I didn't even realize that or notice it saying that on the connector packaging directions. I'm going to take a look at the packaging again the next time I'm at Lowes. Today I read a bunch of forum posts and installation guides and they do mention the plastic insert is only needed for PEX, but it doesn't cause any problems if not removed for copper. It's a much bigger concern if you remove and then use on PEX. Thanks for pointing that out. Good info for the next time I have to install one.
@@weekendhomeprojects the plastic insert is for soft copper not pex, anything that will crush.
I asked Sharkbite about this and they say DO NOT remove the plastic insert for copper!!! Although it’s not needed for copper, they don’t want you to risk damage to the oring or teeth. Although I find that you can successfully sneak it out if you’re careful, it does not harm to just leave it in.
The new Max design does not use the plastic insert anymore.
That orange plastic tool sucks for sure! The tongs are better but still need super human strength. Using a C-clamp on the tongs works well, or better yet… the new hand tool designed for the task is the way to go (although it’s expensive).
Just thought I'd check up on how the fitting was holding up as far as leaks? Reason is, I'm about to install these myself, and after research seems that on these SharkBite Water Heater fittings, it's almost never the SharkBite connection itself that leaks, but always the manufacturer's connection to the ball valve itself, or the same area on the non-ball valve fitting for the hot water side. Thanks.
That first one leaked in a few weeks. But so far, the replacement is doing fine. I'd be a little more nervous if it was in a finished area of the house. But where mine is...if it leaks I just have to replace it. If I was doing it in a finished area I'd think about compression fittings and copper.
I used a 1 inch to 1 inch sharkbite tubing like yours but for my water softener. It started leaking from the white plastic ring on the outside. I had to return it and get another one. Thanks for putting up the video.
I also have a leak at the same place when the tanks fill up what causes it to leak only.when the thank fills up
Aren't you supposed to have a catch pan under the water heater to prevent some of the water from hitting the floor?
Yes, especially if your water heater is in a livable area. Mine's in the basement, so a leak doesn't really affect anything.
Too cautious with the hand, your scared of messing up, you made a fatal mistake that you have not corrected, you did not deburr it correctly, they sell a SharkBite outside rim cleaner and you can use another tool to do the inside, beside last time having tension on it, really only reason is you damaged up the O ring inside from that edge and did not mark it before to confirm snug flush fit with the SharkBite rim tool , but you have to clean that sharp edge up, you will be back with another leak video sooner if not later. but your video does help, you should mention your user error in next leak from both video's.
Good info, thank you. So far, no leak but it’ll be good info to add to a video when it does.
are things still going tstrong with that waterheater and sharkbite connectors?
Yes…4 years later and no issues.
For Sharkbite....... debur, debur debur !
And how would you drain the water out of the pressure relief valve? That's what the little spout at the bottom of the tank is for.
I wasn’t draining water, I was releasing the pressure. So air and water were coming out. You don’t want pressure in the tank when you remove the connector pipe.
@@weekendhomeprojects
I would have released any pressure by opening a tap in the house or the drain valve of the tank.
actuating the pressure release valve creates risk of debris getting into the valve.
them type sharkbites leak easy next time replace them with the sharkbite braided line
Just cut the copper with a tube cutter install new shark bite this time clean the copper with sand papper to remove burs install new fittting done deal
Estás muy güey
Is it the same process for line without shut off valve?
The hot water outlet connector hose coming from water heater? Same process yes, but the hose won't have a shut off.
You really have to learn lither bit more about to how work with sharbite,First deburry the pipe well and snad the first inch from the cut of the pipe,
Yeah, I've got that comment a lot. Next time I work with Sharkbites I'll be sure to have the debur inner/outer tool. Thanks for pointing it out. I learn a lot from the comments for future projects.
How’s the new connection /fitting doing to date?? Anything you’d change if ya could go back? Appreciate it! About to go pick one of those water heater sharkbite line w/shutoff for my new tank I put in yesterday.
The connection is still working good, no leaks. Based on the location of the water heater and my plumber experience (very little), I wouldn’t change a thing. Did you get a Rheem?
@@weekendhomeprojects no an AO 100 50gl and used the sharkbite with shutoff for the hot side and had to use the new sharkbite 3 way and coupler on the cold due to the expansion tank hookup, but no issues so far outside of having to open up my attic access because the 50gl put in when my house was built was 23” wide and the 50gl I put in was 24” wide smh go figure, but as long as you install the sharkbite correctly they’re good. When they fail and leak is when the connecting pipe isn’t prepped properly and not connected deep enough from everything I’ve seen.
Should have used a compression fitting those shark bites fail quite a bit.
I’ve heard that a lot. May change them out this fall. So far no (more) leaks.
Nice job! I have those same valve lines connected to my hot water tank and water softener so will need to keep an eye on those, though, they’ve been good for over six years but knock-on-wood 😀. Subscribing to you and keep it rolling as you’re getting close to that magic 1k subscriber mark. Good luck to you!!
Thank you kind sir! I sub’d to you too. Found you through ur 9v battery scale fix. My electric fence dog collar battery connector crumbled apart when I was trying to replace the battery. Watched ur vid then bought some connector replacements from Amazon. Thanks for the help.
@@weekendhomeprojects that’s great to hear and I appreciate you watching that video, too. Funny how the videos you think will take off, don’t and the ones you question are worth posting end up getting more views than expected…classic irony 🤣. I appreciate a fellow DIYer, learner, fixer and salute you for sharing your knowledge journey with the World. Keep it up and keep on posting. I know how discouraging it can sometimes feel when videos don’t get the desired views but you’ll hit that monetizing mark sooner than you think!!
You opened no sink valves to get the air out of the lines??? could have done it by opening the relief valve a couple of seconds at a time into the bucket. Are you sure you got the shark in all the way? should have marked your length, usaully you feel 2 clicks puting it on.
why not just go with a compression fitting ball valve?
Something like 1:30 of this video? - czcams.com/video/UoBVwXEzZsM/video.html
Damm the cane bend pipe for pressure relief valve at my Home Depot is 24.97 yours is $10 that’s nuts
Yeah that was pre-pandemic pricing. Someone commented the other day the water heater that I paid around $370 for is like $570 now.
@@weekendhomeprojects ouch!
I bought the cheapest one at Menards 2 months ago $600 🤦🏻♂️ so sick and tired of this joke of an economy ’
$ 1 is worth about .30 and that’s no joke! That’s reality!!
We have only just begun’
Honestly blows my mind say u make $12 an hr that’s 960$ every 2 weeks then let the govt dip their hand in the cookie jar now maybe take home is $800 x2 in a month $1600 now factor in if u have 1-2 kids
Rent is 1500 now u have car payment phone insurance
U get the point lol’
Even at $15 an hr maybe taking home 2k a month’ we slave away yet the pockets of the rich get fuller!
How one ever gets ahead in life is getting rarer by the day!
I managed a govt low income housing for the elderly
After their rent no joke some had maybe $100-150 left from social security to last a month to buy food pay phone etc breaks your heart seeing how $20 to them was like a million’
Don’t buy anything unless U have
to is my advice to anyone right now’ big companies r gouging us more by the day!
Until we get an administration that cares about the people’ save every dime one day we’ll be the elderly and need it’
Hopefully that helps even 1 person lol’
best wishes to all those fighting to keep their head above water in these really messed up times!
The good thing about “anything”
Is “ nothing last forever”
Aren’t you suppose to have a expansion tank? Maybe it was expanding with no where to go?
If you have a closed water system you should. In some places code requires it. My area does not so the builder didn’t put one in. I may try to put one in as a future project.
You need a DHW Expansion tank on all water heaters today. The shock of the rapid closure of the washing machine solenoid valves shock the water line inrush pressure causing leaks and damage to your system. Today's water heaters have ball checks built into the inlet nipple to prevent back flow, in essence shock has no where to go .
Were you able to return the defective hose?
Yes. I checked with Lowes customer service to confirm the best way to do it before hand. They had me buy a new pack of connectors, take it home and replace the defective one, and return it. So I was returning the defective one in the new package (which still had the brand new non-valve connector). Got a full refund quick and easy.
Why put the same thing back on there it failed once I wouldn't trust it
I’m a glutton for punishment. Haha. I may end up putting press fittings on.
How to replace sharkbite fitting is very simple, dont install them , solder in all copper pipe like a real license master plumber.Oh wait i forgot the plumbing contractors in todays world that are under 50 years old dont know how to solder.
so what is the point of this you say not to buy a shark bite then say not to hire a plumber not in there late 60s
Shark bite connectors are crap. Have had no luck with them. They are convenient but that's about it.
I had only a few weeks experience with them before I had issues. I’d hate to have put them in the walls.
Sharkbite IS NOT 100 % ACCURATE. IT COULD BE A WASTE OF MONEY MOST OF TIMES 😡😡
Your replacing the sharkbite as listed in your video but you don't show disconnecting the sharkbite??? Thanks for nothing!
@6:47 I disconnected the Sharkbite. Is that what you’re referring to?
Finally let’s loose at 9:15
That was half of his video... Smh
That sharkbite looks fake,the ones i use doesn't even look fake like that with spray paint look silver....you were doop....
They sold it at Lowes. But I agree, it looks different than others I've seen.
😭😭👎👎👎
Life’s hard man.