Electro-Voice ZLX-12 & ZLX-15P Power Supply Repair & Test - 647 watts RMS.
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2018
- Electro-Voice ZLX 12 & ZLX-15P Power Supply Repair & Test.
If you can get the max voltage +/-36 volts into the woofer, you are looking at 647 watts RMS.
The repair scope shot shows +/- 30 volts peak to peak before it limits down to 20 volts PP.
30 volts PP times 2 = 60 volts PP.
60 x 0.707 = 42.42
42.42 x 42.42 = 1,799.4564
1,799.4564 into 4 ohms = 449.8641 RMS
At full power, this 449 watts lasted just a few seconds before the chip cut the output down to 200 watts approx.
There is no smoothing on the mains, so 240 volts not 320v.
Oh, I drew the fet wrong too.
The fet driver is is a UC3845B.
After doing this video, I saw another blown ZLX-15P here on CZcams, it was the later board and had blown up.
So later boards are as reliable as early boards.
Absolutely Brilliant, Thanks very much indeed sir. Helped me fix mine. All the same components blown. One tip, get a heatsink on your 100W dummy load resistor, ha ha. It's only rated at 100W if you can get the heat away.
👍Thank you for your feedback 😀
I so glad to have come across your video about the EV not being a 1000 w and only being 500w cause I was thinking of buying the ZLX 15P coz they sound good but being mislead about the watts. It shows that the Electro-Voice company can not be trusted.
Thank you.
Their new speaker is 2000 watts lol
Hey John, just purchased a ZLX15P today actually, I'm glad I found your video, hopefully I'll not need the wealth of knowledge you've provided on repairing it.... But it's reassuring to know there are people out there that are willing to provide these great videos to help others. Thanks very much!
Thank you for your feedback, I hope you have a great 2020 with your new speakers.
@@JohnB-2021 Thanks mate, you too! Hello from Australia, stay warm over in that neck of the woods.
thanks a lot you help me out and now mys is working 👍
Excellent video John, I have just bought the ZLX 12BT and have some experience in repairing electronics in the past and this video will for sure come in handy if it burns for some reason 👍
Great to hear!
Thank you for your comments.
Big success. Repaired power supply section and every thing else seems fine again.
Coated boards with conformal coating to prevent future damage from conductive liquids!
R28 and R100 values were backwards on some schematic posted online --I left them as factory. R28 = 100 ohm/R100 = 150 ohm
R26
R100
R28
R62-R71
D30
D10
IC2
Q8
Q1
Input Fuse
What is the size/wattage of the SMD components you used?
@@guitarreromxl74 Part Mfg. Part Newark Part Qty Description
R26 CR0603-JW-101ELF 02J2282 1 SMD Chip Resistor, 100 ohm, ± 5%, 100 mW,0603 [1608 Metric],
R100 CR1206-FX-1500ELF 02J2586 1 SMD Chip Resistor, 150 ohm, ± 1%, 250 mW,1206 [3216 Metric]
R28 CR1206-FX-1000ELF 02J2563 1 SMD Chip Resistor, 100 ohm, ± 1%, 250 mW,1206 [3216 Metric]
R62-R71 CR1206AF/-1R00EAS 16AH0618 9 SMD Chip Resistor, 1 ohm, ± 1%, 250 mW, 1206[3216 Metric], Thick Film,
D30 BAS16,215 35M2838 1 Small Signal Diode, Single, 100 V, 215 mA, 1.25V, 4 ns,
D10 BAT54A+ 03AC7808 1 DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 30V, 0.2A, SOT-23
IC2 UC3845BD1 45AC7924 1 PWM Current Mode Controller, 11V to 30VSupply, 1A Out, 500 kHz, SOIC-8
Q8 BC817-16LT1G 98H0503 1 Bipolar (BJT) Single Transistor, General Purpose,NPN, 45 V, 500 mA, 300 mW, SOT-23
Q1 STP20N90K5 14AC7554 1 MOSFET, N-CH, 900V, 20A, TO-220-3
Input Fuse BK1-S506-4-R 29AJ4185 1 CARTRIDGE FUSE, TIME DELAY, 4 amp, 5MM X 20MM
That's interesting I have just repaired two of these amp modules (different versions) & they had R28 = 150ohms ... R100 = 100ohms (the same as the schematic and John's video). What version of the board is yours, the one with the 9x resistors in a 3x3 block pattern or the L shaped pattern?
@@johnnybravo505 Sorry didn't record board version but resistors are 6 in row with 3 more in a row next to it, not 3x3. There is a discrepancy between R28 and R100 between versions apparently. This amplifier was brand new less than a year ago. Schematic with discrepancy dates to 2012 or so. Somewhere along the line, the 150 and 100 ohm gate resistors got reversed, and perhaps it doesn't matter, but who's to say. Ethan
One of the most intelligent and informative videos I've seen. Thank you John for the effort. Much appreciated, Andrew, Cape Town
Thank you kind sir, I'm pleased it helped.
@@JohnB-2021 Hi Sir, I have one problem, TDA8953TH is the low frecuencies amplifier, you can find R56 in the side down of the board, I receive the speaker with this resistor ripped, do you know if is a thermistor?
I fix a mayor problem with the input board, I think current flow from the XLR connectors making a big short.
After fixing the tweeter sound perfect, but if I put some resistor for R56 speaker Stop working and show HOT.
Any help will be appreciate.
Best Regards.
This is a super video explaining how this particular circuit works...!!!
Thank you.
I have two of these ZLX - 12Ps and bit scared after watching this, coz something goes wrong you are done...!!@@JohnB-2021
This is the full range speaker specs
Impedance: 8 ohms, Re: 5.7 ohms
Power: 160 watts RMS, 320 watts max
Response: 35-5000 Hz
Hi John, nice thorough video! Manufacturers have been "fibbing" to us for years about "wattage", of course bragging about the amplifier's wattage alone means nothing without a reference to frequency response, impedance load and distortion at a certain point I get all that.
Not too long ago, QSC discontinued their very popular powered speaker line referred to as the K Series,... K8, K10 and K12 along with their powered subwoofer. These K Series were advertised as 1,000 watts, then they were replaced with the K.2 series, K8.2, K10.2 K12.2 advertised at,,, wait for it....... 2,000 watts.. RIGHT! In a side by side comparison that I did, there seems to be no appreciable difference in the maximum volume that can be achieved in a comparison between the 1,000 watt and the 2,000 watt speakers when pushing both to their onboard limiting.
The original K12 was advertised at 1,000 watts continuous with 500 watts on the LF, and 500 watts on the HF, and they listed 2000 watts PEAK! The new K12.2 is advertised as 2000 watts and then they show 1,800 watts LF and 225 watts HF. PEAK! So, I could care less about whether or not the amplifiers can actually produce the advertise wattage or not.. my guess is they don't. maybe the original K series maybe ,, but the K.2 Series, 2000 watts,, I don't think so. I think it would be really cool if somebody in youtube land would prove me wrong, I wouldn't mind that at all.
I have six K12 speakers and two K12.2 speakers and both models do a really nice job. If you ever get a chance to do a video on the amps in these QSC powered speakers I would certainly be interested in your observation. Lastly, I really like your statement, near the end.... nice amp, just not 1000 watts :)
+ dankurydotcom
Thank you for your kind comments and information, I do appreciate it.
After someone quoted QSC last year, I decided to see if I could find their schematics. I did find the K series circuit drawings.
I was impressed with the layout and technical information for the engineer repairing them.
I also saw the K series power supply has a 'push - pull arrangement on their power supply meaning it has 2 transistors creating the power compared to just one on this EV.
The push pull is many times more reliable than a single transistor setup.
The output is driven from a 500 watt driver chip, 500 for the bass and 500 watt for the tweeter in class D mode.
I'm guessing the K.2 series might incorporate 2 chips for the bass which would give us 1000 watts on just the bass alone then another 500 for the treble.
Mackie's HD series also use 2 chips for the bass and one for the treble. i.e. the HD1521 or the HD1801 sub.
And like the Mackie, the K series also uses the IRS20957 chip now readily available from Mouser & Farnell etc.
After viewing the QSC schematics, I have told a few people not to forget to include them when looking for upgrades.
I would like to get my hands on them to check them out, I have no doubt they are a quality speaker.
As for distortion, a very good point you make.
The chip on this EV is quoted at 10% so that they can push up the numbers.
At the bottom of the page, they quote the same chip at 82 watts or 84 or something (times 2) at 0.1 %
Thank you once again.
@@JohnB-2021 WOW! John, I wish I had your knowledge but I am an audio engineer and only know enough "to be dangerous" about diodes, chips, transistors and capacitors etc. :) I am very grateful for the time you take to make these videos, no bull just the honest truth. THANK YOU!
dankurydotcom thank you kind sir
I’m sure you’re just being modest, audio amps can get very complicated so my hat of to you.
@@JohnB-2021 awe :)
Hi John, between these speakers which one do you recomend and why?
Mackie thump 12a, turbo sound ixq, rcf art hd 12 and db technologies opera 12.
i presently have EV zlx 12p and i agree with you that it sounds like a 500 watt speaker not 1000. I respect your professional oppinion. Please share with me your thoughts on which one you recommend. thank you
Hello John, thank you.. I bought a used ZLX15 and found it was going "thermal" I found there was no thermal pad :-) It had been to a repair shop maybe for that or because it was missing and was still missing :-)
Thanks for sharing
John once again this is fantastic documentation you've done. So happens that I have a powered speaker with a blown amplifier also. Someone spilled spiced wine on to the top of the speaker and it ran down into and across the input board and then short it out the power supply and amplifier board doing significant damage. MOSFET that drives the high frequency power transformer is shorted and at least the driver resistors for that MOSFET. Once again the one ohm resistors in series with the MOSFET blew along with the primary input fuse thankfully.
I am toying with attempting the repair although in this situation I think there has been more damage beyond just the primary power section.
You might be ok changing all the components, including the fet driver chip, as I did on the amp in the video.
This why always passive, you can trhow there beer, wine what ever and continue doing gig.
Hi John, Great evaluation of the board. Replacement boards now come with that insulator installed and all the others needed in a bag.
I specialize in EV repairs. You have come very close with the information but missed one tiny part. They are actually 1000W below explains small error in testing.
The TDA8954 IC on the bottom which you are missing the pink insulator is extremely smart and will output much higher than 420W for short periods. Its continuous rating is 420W which is perfect for the 250WRMS driver. The DSP is also extremely smart and cuts the signal quickly which is why you cant get the volume bar on the display to go all the way to the end. Playing Dynamic Music will allow it to go higher. You will see the higher voltages if a Digital storage scope is used.
As you know, but other non electronic technical people there are two usual ratings, RMS (Continuous power you can run all day and speaker is happy) Peak (What can be run for a short period)
Hope that does make some people happy who thought they only got a 500W max speaker, no it is actually 1000W Peak.
Below someone asked about the ETX range, I love them sound Beautiful, personally have a ETX12P in the workshop, its used every day for the last 3-4 years no problems. My favorite though the Madras M15 and M18 almost DJ proof but no longer manufactured. They were expensive but great if you want it very loud.
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your comments.
At least I didn't slag off the speaker, I thought it was quite nice.
Are you in the UK, I've just fixed another ZLX amp and he also sent a ELX 118P which is dead.
The smps looks smaller than the ZLX range smps and I see an ugly piece of aluminium for a heat sink with 4 fets bolted to it.
I don't have the time to learn how it works to be able to fix it, maybe I can send it to you?
Thank you again
Have a Ev zlx 12p and the power supply circuit giving me a low buzzing noise no power on the DSP the buzzing noise coming from the Line filter choke and polypropylene capacitor area would i need to changed the whole power supply some feed back will be greatly appreciated.
@@Warrior-uk2tx
Sounds like the power supply is faulty since you don't have the dsp.
It could be any number of small hidden components.
@@JohnB-2021 Got i fixed it was the rectifier diode
Super i will try this afternoon
One time building circuit blow 400v on my stuff. Then the first varistor after the input cable was blown. I do change it, then i got it working but after 2 parties hiting "protect" on this amp display.
Nice repair
Thank you.
Great video.
Thank you
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Nice tutorial sir thank you
Most welcome
1000 watts peak, 250 watts continuous
Ethan Clement below discovered his latest version PCB (less than a year old) had the R28 & R100 Q1 gate charge & discharge resistor values reversed from previous versions and the video here ... have many other people found this to be the case for the latest or any other versions of the PCB? .... e.g. R28 = 100ohm & R100 = 150ohm? I have repaired versions with the 9x 1ohm resistors in a 3 x 3 block & also 6 in a line beside 3 (the newer version) and R28 & R100 have always been the other way round (like in the vid here) but then none of the one's I've seen are that new.
Hi John! Thanks for the comprehensive video. I'm having a similar problem which leads to changing the module to use it as built. In order to save money, I thought of running it with an external amplifier, using the original module as a crossover. Where do you think the speakon connector should be soldered? And are other steps necessary? It would be helpful if you could give me some advice. Thank you!
There is no crossover in that amp.
I do enjoy the process , but it is worth to do it as a professional business this repairs ?
I think so, quick repair for £99 now we know
Hey John. Thanks for the insightful channel. Do you have any experience working with EV's ZXA1 powered speakers? I have five here that are experiencing all the same symptom. Clicking with or without sound. The power supply is close but different from the ZLX. No opto isolator used for feedback. Buck (LNK302GN) and gate driver (IR2153) with FQP13N50 FETs on the primary side. Secondary side has a LM317 and some more filtering to get +-18v. The voltages between the boards are DC +- 18 +- 60 and -50 from the LM317. There is a bit more filtering on the amp board. They use a IRS2092S amp chip with a 4047 and LM353 before that. I think AC is leaking through some of the main filter caps causing problems. Any hints? Also do you run a repair shop? Thanks again. -KM
Hi Kevin,
I don't know much about other ev amps but I do know those IRS2092s are terrible chips, they are used on the Peavey amps too.
Farnell now stock them so you don't have to get fakes from China.
Hi Kevin, do you have the schematic diagram for this model (ZXA1) to share? I´ve been looking for that on internet but still haven´t found. Tks.
@@Pernad3RJ I don't sorry. But the circuitry is similar to what is listed in the IC's datasheets. Were you able to find one?
Great work from you as usual, but this design is the most idiotic design I have ever seen by EV
Thank you MicrosiM diysmps
Yes, not their greatest design.
Hi John B! Can you please help me? Zlx 12 and no sub. The c34 condenser is missing from the pcb. where should I look for the error? Thanks in advance!
Hello Mr. John B. Greetings from Poland. Thank you for the movies and your work, I'm impressed with what you do. I will repair the motherboard in ZLX12P for some time, so I will definitely use your film. For now, I repaired the input board, but it was simple, only the burned resistors. I have a question, can I use your knowledge and experience. I have an A&H ZED22FX mixer with a lot of burned elements. On one board there are XLR main outputs and headphone outputs (small and large Jack). The ground (XLR) of the XLR outputs was connected to the ground of the headphone outputs using an SMD element. What element could it be? Jumper or some filtering condenser? Unfortunately, I have too little experience in repairing mixers. I will be grateful for any help.
Hi,
Sorry I have no idea without a circuit drawing / schematic.
They could be zero ohm resistors designed to fail if there is an earth fault.
Zero ohm resistors are common to protect circuits.
@@JohnB-2021 Thank you for your answer. Unfortunately, I don't have a schematic, and it's rather unavailable. But it seems to me, like you, that there is just jumper 0. And I will put it in, although it works without it ... Greetings and thank you again for the answer.
Great work John 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Have you have any inputs on the newer ev zlx 15 speakers ?
Does EV have done upgrades or changes to the newer speakers ?
I recently have bought a pair of zlx 15’s , before I watched you’re insight video of this …. 😐
Probably did not buy this speaker , if I saw you’re breakdown on this board before .
I you like , I take one apart and send you some detailed pictures of the board and parts , just let me know if you are interested in this matter .
Grts Davy.
EV added bluetooth to later speakers, that's all I know.
Hello, nice video it is useful and educational too,we have a ZLX-15P Speaker
The 4A fuse is blown and when I open the power amp to inspect the reason I found that the TDA7923 is blown up maybe from short circuit
What makes this problem to blow the audio amplifier chip?
Can you suggest?
Thank you
Being worked too hard or short circuit woofer.
6:19 you mentioned .1 ohm resistor but i cant find these anywhere
Have you tried Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, RS Components, they are everywhere.
hello John! Thanks for the class. Could you let me know why this amplifier doesn't have a cooler for cooling? Also what do you think of this amplifier in quality. Thanks for your attention.
Thank you for your comments Claudio.
I’m guessing the amp does not need a fan when used correctly. i.e not driven to max volume.
The amp is based around 2 chips so nothing to write home about.
i just received another unit zlx12p, no power as usual, all the resistor burned. Replaced the resistors, burned diodes, mosfet and the chip as well. Fired up, still no power, checked at rectifier and mosfet, 300+v present. Any idea what could be wrong? Thanking in advance.
@@thehitman5007 From memory, there are some series resistors and a diode that supply power from the mains to the chip. I had one and I think the resistors were blown. Not seen one in years.
@@JohnB-2021 you mean the +15v right
@@thehitman5007 yes
tenho uma unidade de potência de marca electro voice de 3000w quando ligo na inergia da retorno o que pode cer
Não entendi corretamente sua pergunta, João. Poderia reformulá-la?
Great
Hi and thanks for sharing all that knowledge !
I also have a blown up FET on my amp and unfortunately the capacitor C48 is melted a bit aswell. Can you maybe tell me what capaticance that one could be? It is also on your picture but no value there.
Best Regards from Germany!
Good morning from the UK, thank you for your comments.
C48 is 100nf
C49 is 10nf
C51 is 2,2nf
Probably 50 volt.
Hi John, Thanks for doing this video. Very informative. I have a EV ZLX12P that needs troubleshooting/repair. It makes a loud audio bang when plugging in an input. Where would i start in troubleshooting. I dont have the knowledge or equipment you have. How much would you charge to take a look at it. I am westcountry based. TIA
Hi, you plug the speaker in, including audio then turn on. I don’t repair them any longer.
Hi John, thanks so much for posting this video. I've experienced the same blown source resistors on a ZLX-12P and am finding it troublesome (and costly) to track down a replacement amp module. Unfortunately I don't have access to an oscilloscope, but I am fairly competent at soldering SMD and the repair of PCBs. Am I correct in presuming that there isn't any other way of knowing if any other components on the MOSFET / fet driver circuit has blown without an oscilloscope? Thanks in advance!
Hi,
Correct.
It probably has blown, they usually do.
And for the cost of the chip, it's not worth risking replacing all the other parts and not the pwm chip.
Plus, if the gate resistors are blown, it means the chip is blow 99.9% of the time.
You can test the FET with a meter, but I guessed the fet was blown, and it was.
Thanks so much for the fast reply John! I've managed to find a replacement amp board, as time is not on my side to diagnose and fix it right now, but I'll keep it for another time. Thanks again!
How much did the board cost?
About £100 delivered. Before I could only find entire amp modules which were double that.
Brilliant work! Can your help me to identify diode D10 or equivalent? Thanks!
I have no schematic, just stick in any diode if yours is blown.
I’ve been looking for lightweight 12” powered amp speakers and I’m looking at the JBL eon 12” and this EV ZLX 12P. Most reviews seem good over the JBL and Listened to both in a Guitar Center in the US and the EV sounded warmer ( I play soft rock/small band) . I am taken aback to see your videos about the EVs. At this point I don’t know which one to choose because there’s been many reports of problems with the JBLs. Any advice?
Hi,
The EV illustrated sound nice because of the DSP.
They should last many years if used sensibly.
If they sound right for you and the budget is right, no harm in buying one.
I hope this helps.
Sir John B, Our 3 year old EV ZLX-15P just died on us and the service Center would like to charge us for roughly US $195 for the SMPS HV ZLX AXM Board Assembly and about US $52 for the labor. So all in all, we will be shelling US $246 for the total repair. Are we getting a fair price of the repair? Thanks for your advice.
ummm,
I guess it's a reasonable prices when converted to UK £
The board can be replaced in 20 minutes, just a few nuts and cables and don’t forget the heat-sink sticky pad between the amplifier chip and the metal case if doing it yourself.
I think you should find an amplifier repair guy, you could get it repaired for less than $100
How much are the speakers new in the USA?
I have a video to show the repair, it's free to watch.
Oh I forgot, keep the old board and sell it to someone who needs it.
@@JohnB-2021 Oh Im sorry, I forgot to tell you Im here in the phillipines and where I am exactly, a good electronic repairman who reads diagrams is very hard to come by.
The speaker cost us more or less 900 US dollars.
@@jolam317montefalcon6 wow $900
I guess if you get a warranty with new board it's ok. Shame you can't find someone with a good soldering iron and skilled in its use.
@@JohnB-2021 If I have seen this video earlier I may have not brought the speaker to the service center and I would just find a good technician and let him study your video, lol. The sad thing was, the speaker was now in the hands of the service center guys and the only option that they are looking into was to replace the entire board at a hefty cost. :-(
Same issue with our ZLX15P. Looks like all this model have the same power supply issue. I have not brought it yet for service. I am also from Philippines. I will try to find somebody that have the right skills to understand this video and hoping it will be fixed as posted.
HI john. Its nice as I found your videos. I am planning to buy ev zlx 15p. Will it be better or should I go for mackie with 1000watt . Need your help ..??
The Mackie amps are very popular and come with a long warranty, Yamaha are a trusted name too.
Hi anyone knows where I can take my ev speaker to be fixed in London , a technician told me he could not do it and I should just replace it
hi, i have a situation where one of the output rectifier diodes is shorte to ground. the negative voltage output. when i measure the the two back to back anode to groung is grounded and When I remove the transformer the short dessapears.
Hi,
The transformer can appear as a short circuit since it is one.
Have a Ev zlx 12p and the power supply circuit giving me a low buzzing noise no power on the DSP
Sorry no idea what could cause a buzzing noise.
Am looking to buy one I want to know which one is best
None of them is best lol
My woofer keeps going out. I have to turn it off and on again to come back, but the woofer still goes out after about a minute. Replaced the woofer, still happening.. Any idea what it is?
No idea, no schematics from EV remember.
Sir how to check 3845 in zlx 15 .only have startup voltage 11 volt .no response from the ic
you can remove the FET, remove any AC power, then power the 3845 directly from an isolated DC bench supply.
look for switching wavforms out of the chip.
hi john do you still repair the EV's ? i have the ZLX-12P no sound, all lights up and showing the DSP working would that be the input or output ? and are these still viable for repair cost wise thanks
Hi,
No I don't repair them since the schematics are not available.
I have a ev elx115p and when i plug it up i get the power light in the back and power card hook up sound once plugged in but the logo light in the front dont turn on can i fix the same power supply board by replaced the parts u list in the pic will my power come back
I have no idea.
The ZLX 15P amplifier heats up on even at minimum volume. I would like to know if it is normal?
Yes I said in the review, the treble chip gets hot and so do the regulators.
Hey, thanks for the video! I've replaced all the components and when probing the gate I get a very steady 47kHz squarewave. The moment i attach it to mains, however, the mosfet shortcircuits. Apart from the fuse, it doesn't take out any other components. I’m quite at a loss for what could be causing the problem. I thought it might be that I am using a slightly different mosfet (STP20N90K5 instead of STP20N95K5), but seeing that - in the video - you are using jet another part I'm starting to doubt that.. hopefully somebody might have a clue? Thanks in advance!
What if you remove the fet, does it still blow a fuse?
@@JohnB-2021 No, then its fine. At that point, the voltage across the IC is about 11 volts
@@teunvandevoorde9165 Assuming your insulator is fitted, you either have a short circuit in the transformer or your fet is not switching off.
@@JohnB-2021 Measuring the transformer gave me a reading very close to 0 ohms DC. So that could indeed be it? When in circuit measuring a transformer from another working amp, however, it gave me about the same result. Ill try to do a more in-depth inductance measurement, maybe that will tell more?
@@teunvandevoorde9165 its a switching transformer, so the primary only has a few turns and will measure 0Ω
don't forget that the impedance at the secondary of a transformer is reflected at the primary... or in english, if the secondary is shorted, or is driving a short, the primary will see a short.
Sorry John, one more question: Is it normal for him to heat up on bypass? Thanks.
What heats up and what is bypass?
Great video I’m using the EV ZLX 12p for a monitor.. I also use the EV ETX 12p
What’s you opinion on the reliability ? Disappointing to find out the speakers are 1,000 watt yet they are 500 so sad.. in your opinion which Manufactures build the best and by quality etc. Fantastic Video.. yeah mine does that with the limit colours etc like you explain. Be interesting to know which Manufacturer is best build quality John ?
Hi Neil,
It's difficult to say how reliable these speakers are.
In the previous video, many people say their speakers are fine after many years.
I have repaired quite a few, they have all lasted at least 2 years.
I believe the Yamaha DBR series are a good quality amp, but even one of them did fail and I got to fix it and show how in a video.
Thanks for your comments
John B Thank you for replying, I’ve had mine since 2017.. EV ETX 12p they have been brilliant speakers as long as the correct gain structure is set. Which I had to get to grips with. Awesome work.
Because they are being over driven plan and simple.. I have a pair of Zlx-15p purchase in 2015
There still running great.. with a pair of ekx18 powered subs.
@@johnr7022 If I want a ZLX 15 only for practice singing, in my room and a few meetings, do you think these speakers are alright?
Nothing strange just singing.
Your opinion, thank you man
yes there are good for vocals also, check out the qsc line of speakers my choice if vocals are your main thing.. both are good
Good Luck!
My C48 is damaged with a burnt track on it. what's C48's value?
100nF
D10 - BAT54 schotkey diode, R126 - 1K8, R121 - 680ohm
@@PietervanDriel1 you answered your own question ? 😂
I have a ZLX-12BT no BAss at all. Was going to try and replace the chip on the bottom of the board. you think that might fix it? Thanks in advance.
Hi,
I doubt the chip is faulty but it could be.
There are no schematics for EV amps so I don't fix them. (Only the PSU which was easy)
@@JohnB-2021 that chip has a lot of stuff in it. including a Oscillator.
The chip was burn. Change it and it works.
Is there a “basic” fuse anywhere on these? I haven’t opened mine up yet
In the mains socket.
Okay am i just changing out the 3 resistor and the 2 100 ohms one 150 ohms and the 2 rectifiers thing and the 3 3 prong thing and it should work sorry about wrong word just try to fix my board with no power or sound but speaker are good try to find problem in the amp and I'm just go to replace everypart i seen u replace and pray for the best but could i get a part list i watch video about 10 time trying to keep up with terms very skilled just in soldering jewelry want to give it a go please please help get power light in back but seem like speaker has no power and the logo light dont come on no more
I have only seen the ZLX so know nothing about others.
Hi john, ive just repaired this unit and it powers on perfectly but i have one problem. The mains filter choke, one of it the tiny magnet is broken, so i glued it and i still hear the buzzing noise. Should i be worried? Does it need to be replaced? The buzzing noise is a bit loud though. Whats your opinion in this? Leave it or replace it? I cant find the part anywhere. Service manual says its 18MH. Can i replace anything similar? Would that fix the buzzing sound?
Thank you for your comments.
Is the buzzing noise coming through the speaker or actual buzzing from the board?
I’m shocked to hear you have a service manual, I didn’t thing they were available.
@@JohnB-2021 john its coming from the choke itself. Not from the speakers. But the unit is working fine.
@@JohnB-2021 im just too afraid to keep it on for too long. What should i do?
@@thehitman5007 You can buy common mode chokes from places like Farnell & Mouser etc. I wouldn’t worry too much about the buzzing, assuming it is one of the mains filters.
@@JohnB-2021 its quite loud though, thats what worries me 😅😅
Are there any speakers that you have come across that are the wattage they claim?
Yes, the Mackie and Yamaha.
Hi John,
I can get a great deal on the zlx-12 series 2pc new for 520€. My question is, are the amps in the zlx really that bad? I will mostly play edm which has alot of bass. Do you know how i need to handle these speakers so the last for a long time? Or are the made to fail at an certain point.
Hi,
The price sounds good.
The speakers may give you years of reliable service as many people have said in my previous video.
They sound nice, just not 1000 watts.
They are not designed to fail, just a little more money could have been spent to make them super reliable.
@@JohnB-2021 Thank you for the really fast reply! Ill give these a try. Btw your video's are amazing and the information you provide me really helps alot, ill definitly subscribe to your channel.
@@RetroglowSystems Thank you kind sir, have a great Easter weekend.
@@JohnB-2021 You too have a great easter weekend, greetings from the Netherlands.
@@JohnB-2021 thanks. I only want them for singing, practice in my room, and maybe some days a few meetings. Obviously I'm learning music and I have to learn the technical aspects. It won't be nothing professional for now.
Hi John, I have a ZLX 12P that I'm trying to repair myself with a blown R131 resistor, do you know what value of resistor it is? Could that blown resistor have damaged anything else? I've found somewhere to purchase the input board, but I'm just wondering if this might be a simple fix that I can do myself, cheers
Yes other parts will have blown causing your resistor to fail.
Where is 131?
@@JohnB-2021 131 is on the back of the input board, almost in the exact middle
Certainly Not Alex
No idea what value it is, never seen a schematic either
@@JohnB-2021 Is there any way to reliably test the power supply board to make sure that it's not damaged as well?
Certainly Not Alex
Yes measure the supplies
HI mr john thanks for this video can i repair the input board you have access to
zlx ev firmware
I don't have access to schematics, ev are hardly going to release the software.
hello I would like to know where can I find those resistors and the values please
The values are shown in the video.
Which one is better the Mackie or electro voice zlx
Mackie, excluding any of their older 'thump' series that used the same chip. (so a little under powered); better still, Yamaha DBR range.
Hi John, great video can I contact you for a repair (UK based)?
Sorry I don’t repair them since the schematics are not available.
@@JohnB-2021 fair enough, thank you for your quick reply.
Good night I hope for your help I have a zlx12p, my problem is that when I turn it on I can not get an audio signal to the medium or to Twitter and on the screen it sends me a message that says hot where the fault will be thank you
Hi,
When does it say 'hot' how many minutes after turn on?
If you have no audio, maybe the input is blown?
after turning on the 20 seconds appears the message HOT that covers the entire screen as I can manipulate the dsp normally
@@djbreidytbm8405 Maybe the woofer is short circuit
According to technician tells me the fault is in the TDA8953TH
@@djbreidytbm8405
Yes so why no tweeter?
Can those bass chip be shorted?
They usually protect themselves.
wath the name of tha part you was toching in part 21;22 help please thanks
I show the part number at 22 min
Hi, What is the RMS power of the amplifier?
Too small to measure with my equipment. lol
449 watts MAX RMS into 4 ohm.
John, I have two of these speakers with a similar fault. EV customer support has been unless in the UK - is there any chance you could repair my power supplies? I could ship both to you
Hi Andrew,
Yes leave a phone number here then delete it when I have called.
Hi! Can you say what parameters exactly have the resistor you used?
Hi,
0.1 ohm 3 watt
@@JohnB-2021 Thak you! Great video
Łukasz Duda Thank you
Heyyy can you help me replace sub on my ev???
Where are you located? Contact info?
I'm in the UK, why?
@@JohnB-2021 I have a few units that need repair. EV charges $280 for a replacement and there are no local repair shops.
@@walterporras9233 I stopped repairing these years ago, EV refuse to supply a schematic.
So if they don’t help engineers, why should I help to support their customers?
I have shown the common fault and shown how to repair them. (free of charge).
@@JohnB-2021 thanks
@@JohnB-2021 gotta respect that