My Balmar is setup to charge 3 8d AGM batteries which have come to their end of life. I have replaced them with 2 300 amp hr LiFePO batteries and I was told that the AGM regulator I have been using should be the right voltage range for new batteries. The sterling alternator protection looks like the way to go. I have a 100 amp alternator and they say 50% of capacity in amps for charging so theoretically it should work fine for 600 amps. I've heard of finicky BMS's burning up alternators so I've been researching it when I came upon your video. Regards
Thanks for posting this, I appreciate coming across someone with your particular setup. How's this working out for you? I'd appreciate your input on how you are liking your alternator and voltage regulator as well as if this setup is the way to go. Not many people that I've noticed charge their batteries in this order. House then boat/vehicle. I'm interested in doing the same thing more or less. I've been looking at Balmar voltage regulators and didn't know that they built alternators as well. I have a camper van that I'm building out and was considering charging my Lifepo4 house batteries first through an upgraded alternator then to a voltage regulator as you did. My house batteries are 180AH 24v Lifepo4 and the van is 12v so a 24/12v DC to DC charger should do the trick. My biggest concern so far is that if the alternator doesn't finish charging the house batteries before shutting down the vehicle, I will end up with the vehicle batteries not getting charged. If you have any comments to share, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again.
It’s fairly common in marine applications for the alternator to charge the LiFePO bank directly, particularly in my application in which the engine is an auxiliary and isn’t used unless necessary. Given your van application, you might want to stick with the typical configuration of using a DC-DC between start and leisure batteries. This system has worked perfectly fine for me, keeping both house and start batteries charged. The Balmar alternator and regulator have functioned flawlessly so far. They’re a recognized and trusted supplier/manufacturer.
Hello, I just ordered a 270Ah Lithium battery to replace my GEL house batteries and plan to do the same thing you’ve done! I have a balmar 70 which I plan to have the MC-614 charge directly. I ordered an Orion 12/12-18 I intent to connect to the house bank to keep my Gel starting battery topped off. What solution did you choose to keep your start battery connected and charged? Thanks!
Hello! It sounds like our approaches are nearly identical. I added an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 between the LiFePO bank and my FLA start bank, which has worked well.
@@79cd36 Awesome! So I’m thinking I’ll just have an appropriate sized cable from start battery to the starter, and the same from the Orion to the start battery, all fused as needed. Is that how you’re set up?
Per ABYC standards, I have an appropriately sized class T fuse within 7" of my LiFePO bank on the positive conductor. And per ABYC standard E-11: "Overcurrent protection is not required at an alternator if the ampacity of the conductor is equal to or greater than the rated output of the alternator." My positive conductor coming off the alternator is more than adequate, by a factor of 2, for my alternator's rated output.
No, no issues with overheating. I’m running the Balmar 614 external regulator with the belt-load manager set conservatively to a max of 50 A output, which is more than adequate for bringing my two LiFePO batteries (210ah) back to full charge within a reasonable amount of time. That setting also means my alternator should last longer. 😉
My Balmar is setup to charge 3 8d AGM batteries which have come to their end of life. I have replaced them with 2 300 amp hr LiFePO batteries and I was told that the AGM regulator I have been using should be the right voltage range for new batteries. The sterling alternator protection looks like the way to go. I have a 100 amp alternator and they say 50% of capacity in amps for charging so theoretically it should work fine for 600 amps. I've heard of finicky BMS's burning up alternators so I've been researching it when I came upon your video. Regards
Thanks for posting this, I appreciate coming across someone with your particular setup. How's this working out for you?
I'd appreciate your input on how you are liking your alternator and voltage regulator as well as if this setup is the way to go. Not many people that I've noticed charge their batteries in this order. House then boat/vehicle.
I'm interested in doing the same thing more or less. I've been looking at Balmar voltage regulators and didn't know that they built alternators as well.
I have a camper van that I'm building out and was considering charging my Lifepo4 house batteries first through an upgraded alternator then to a voltage regulator as you did.
My house batteries are 180AH 24v Lifepo4 and the van is 12v so a 24/12v DC to DC charger should do the trick.
My biggest concern so far is that if the alternator doesn't finish charging the house batteries before shutting down the vehicle, I will end up with the vehicle batteries not getting charged.
If you have any comments to share, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again.
It’s fairly common in marine applications for the alternator to charge the LiFePO bank directly, particularly in my application in which the engine is an auxiliary and isn’t used unless necessary. Given your van application, you might want to stick with the typical configuration of using a DC-DC between start and leisure batteries.
This system has worked perfectly fine for me, keeping both house and start batteries charged.
The Balmar alternator and regulator have functioned flawlessly so far. They’re a recognized and trusted supplier/manufacturer.
Hello, I just ordered a 270Ah Lithium battery to replace my GEL house batteries and plan to do the same thing you’ve done! I have a balmar 70 which I plan to have the MC-614 charge directly. I ordered an Orion 12/12-18 I intent to connect to the house bank to keep my Gel starting battery topped off. What solution did you choose to keep your start battery connected and charged? Thanks!
Hello! It sounds like our approaches are nearly identical. I added an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 between the LiFePO bank and my FLA start bank, which has worked well.
@@79cd36 Awesome! So I’m thinking I’ll just have an appropriate sized cable from start battery to the starter, and the same from the Orion to the start battery, all fused as needed. Is that how you’re set up?
@@svtavishb.1817 Yep. This video might be helpful too: czcams.com/video/aE06SEJrBpw/video.html
Pretty sure you need a fuse at the alternator protecting the wire from the alternator to your lithium batteries.
Per ABYC standards, I have an appropriately sized class T fuse within 7" of my LiFePO bank on the positive conductor. And per ABYC standard E-11: "Overcurrent protection is not required at an alternator if the ampacity of the conductor is equal to or greater than the rated output of the alternator." My positive conductor coming off the alternator is more than adequate, by a factor of 2, for my alternator's rated output.
Any issues with the alternator overheating? I’m doing the same thing and everyone is telling me the Lithium will overdraw/overheat my alternator.
No, no issues with overheating. I’m running the Balmar 614 external regulator with the belt-load manager set conservatively to a max of 50 A output, which is more than adequate for bringing my two LiFePO batteries (210ah) back to full charge within a reasonable amount of time. That setting also means my alternator should last longer. 😉
Did you fuse the alternator wire to the battery. If so what amp rating.
Yes, Class T fuse rated at 175 amps, but fuses need to be sized for the wire you're using. It isn't a one-size fits all application.