- 102
- 301 019
cdsailor
Registrace 17. 09. 2006
Videos highlighting sailing on Lake Michigan and other things nautical.
Victron Cerbo GX Digital Input Options
A brief explanation of wiring three different types of digital inputs on the Victron Cerbo GX: magnetic reed switch, potential-free or dry contact relay, and an optocoupler.
zhlédnutí: 1 014
Video
Victron Cerbo GX Wiring - Bilge Pump Relay
zhlédnutí 668Před 5 měsíci
Simple overview of how I wired the Victron Cerbo GX aboard my boat to signal bilge pump function.
Victron Cerbo Digital Inputs - Bilge Pump & High Bilge Alarm
zhlédnutí 955Před 5 měsíci
Quick overview of adding a high water bilge alarm to the Cerbo GX digital input with a simple float-switch relay, as well as adding a bilge pump alarm using a potential free relay.
Winterizing Marine Diesel Engine - Lehman 120
zhlédnutí 584Před 8 měsíci
My process of winterizing our twin Lehman 120 engines and Westerbeke generator, saving at least $400 in yard labor. And having a little fun in the process ;)
Trawler Electric Stove Out, New Stove and Cabinet In
zhlédnutí 145Před rokem
Ditched the old Princess electric stove/oven aboard Molly and made a simple shelf for a two-burner alcohol stove with a large cabinet and storage space below.
Norcold Refrigerator Fix - Dual-Electric Model 441
zhlédnutí 106Před rokem
Our refrigerator quit cooling and a quick diagnostic test revealed a faulty 120-volt circuit/converter, prompting me to determine if it was possible to bypass the faulty circuit and wire direct to 12 volts.
Ford Lehman 120 Trawler Oil Hose Upgrade
zhlédnutí 584Před rokem
Is improved oil pressure a benefit of American Diesel Corp's larger oil filter and cooler hose kit? We replace the three hoses and compare my panel gauge to a mechanical gauge before and after installation.
30 amp SmartPlug Connector Installation HD 1080p
zhlédnutí 332Před rokem
Video is not a substitute for following SmartPlug installation instructions. Follow manufacturer's instructions. This video is only for visual reference and interest, documenting my installation.
Trawler - Exterior sunset 360, Albin 36
zhlédnutí 461Před rokem
Albin 36 trawler exterior 360 while at anchor summer 2020. Music Credit: Nowhere To Be, Nothing To Do by HoliznaCC0 Free Music Archive
Marine/RV antifreeze: Are you protected?
zhlédnutí 32Před rokem
Quick-n-dirty antifreeze dilution protection test comparing -100 and -50 antifreeze.
Trawler winter haul out - Albin 36 Trawler
zhlédnutí 478Před rokem
Quick video of hauling Molly this past fall.
Trawler Lion Energy LiFePO & Victron DC-DC Charger Overview
zhlédnutí 201Před rokem
Quick overview of new Lion Energy LiFePO batteries and a Victron DC-DC charger. These batteries will replace tired lead-acid batteries aboard our Albin trawler.
Lion Energy LiFePO4 battery install - Balmar, Victron DC-DC
zhlédnutí 316Před 2 lety
I replaced four six-volt golf cart batteries - 440Ah @ 200 lbs - with two 105Ah Lion Energy Safari 1300 UT LiFePO batteries with 210 ah. Installation included a Victron 120-volt battery charger replacement, addition of a DC-DC charger between LiFePO and LA start batteries, Victron 712 monitor, Balmar alternator, and proper fusing and APD.
Balmar Alternator Install and LiFePO upgrade
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 3 lety
Installation of two Lion Energy Safari 1300 UT LiFePO batteries aboard a Cape Dory 36 equipped with a Perkins 4.108 auxiliary.
Cause of Failure - SPX 2200 GPH bilge pump by Johnson Pump
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 3 lety
Cause of Failure - SPX 2200 GPH bilge pump by Johnson Pump
SmartPlug 30-amp Shore Power Inlet Installation - Albin 36 Trawler
zhlédnutí 460Před 3 lety
SmartPlug 30-amp Shore Power Inlet Installation - Albin 36 Trawler
Lehman 120 Raw Water Pump Removal and Replacement
zhlédnutí 4,4KPřed 3 lety
Lehman 120 Raw Water Pump Removal and Replacement
Albin 36 - Bulkhead, core, and Samson Post Repair, part III
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 4 lety
Albin 36 - Bulkhead, core, and Samson Post Repair, part III
Albin 36 - Foredeck Fiberglass Layup Timelapse
zhlédnutí 598Před 5 lety
Albin 36 - Foredeck Fiberglass Layup Timelapse
Albin 36 Trawler: Teak/Fiberglass Deck Repair - Part II
zhlédnutí 3,4KPřed 5 lety
Albin 36 Trawler: Teak/Fiberglass Deck Repair - Part II
Albin 36 Trawler: Bulkhead & Samson Post Removal, Part I
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 5 lety
Albin 36 Trawler: Bulkhead & Samson Post Removal, Part I
Mine died as well in 2 seasons. I will not use the same brand again.
Thank you for a great video! What is the name of the relay you are using for the bildge pump? If I want to DIN rail mounted relay, what is the specification I should look for? Can use a relay to tap into the float switch that is triggering the bilge pump?
The relay in the video is this: Zooz NO & NC 2 Channel Accessory Relay ZAC98 (12-24 V Inputs, Dry Contact Outputs). Be aware that ignition protected parts are required in some applications. And it just so happens I have a video of integrating the relay into a bilge pump float switch setup: czcams.com/video/8v-77y141zY/video.html. As far as a DIN-mounted relay, I'm not sure. Sorry. Glad the video was helpful.
Sehr gute Arbeit.
Thank you for sharing
Can you use an octocoupler instead of the relay?
Yes
See my most recent video.
Very helpful video. Can you please share a video showing how you set a 60 second timed delay for the bilge alarm and how you send SMS notifications for the alarms? Are you using node red or is this one of the alarm settings in the cerbo gx digital input settings?
@@craigallardyce4248 Glad it's helpful. I'm afraid I don't see the advantage of a 60-second delay for a high water bilge alarm. The alarm sounds when water reaches the float switch, which is placed slightly higher than normal bilge levels. Regarding notifications, that's explained by Victron here: www.victronenergy.com/blog/2022/12/02/new-for-vrm-push-notifications/. I'm using Gerbo GX digital input settings for alarms and VRM.
@79cd36 Thank you for your answer! The 60 second timer is to alert me when my bilge pump runs continuously. This can (has) happen on my boat when the hose connected to my bilge pump loses its prime. Worried about draining the batts. Anyway thanks again. I purchesed the dry rely you referenced and it seems like a very simple and safe solution to activating the digital input.
Can you share a link to the relay you used? Thanks!🙏
This is the one in the video for my land-based demo, but do your own research to ensure a safe installation for your application: a.co/d/8JdPbDv
@@79cd36thanks! Trying to figure out the wiring for bilge running alarm.
@@79cd36can you provide more detail on wiring a relay when you have a float switch?
@@tedboender Just for you: czcams.com/video/8v-77y141zY/video.htmlsi=izRNGTg0udNtt_3v
Hi,good job.Please can you tell me what a model is trasmission,I have the same but i can not finde what is a model a just know tahat is a Borg Warner and if it is a bearings on shaft or something else bekause I'm geting some nois.Thanks
You should find a metal plate located on the port side of the transmission. It includes the model number, gear ratio, and rotation information.
Next on my long list of to do
Good job, funny ending .
Thank you so much for taking the time to meet this. I am restoring a 1972 Bertram 31. I couldn’t figure out why the throttles weren’t balanced.
Did you fuse the alternator wire to the battery. If so what amp rating.
Yes, Class T fuse rated at 175 amps, but fuses need to be sized for the wire you're using. It isn't a one-size fits all application.
i has a Charlie Morgan built in 1968. keel centerboard was nice.
Quick question. On your port engine, while you were ahowing the helm pressure i noticed it would jump every 5 seconds or so. I can hear the click in the video which seems to be why the pressure gauge jumps the way it does. What is that click? Just bought similar boat and have the same click
Somehow and for some reason, the oil pressure gauge and the engine hour meter are sharing power, hence the jump every time the hour meter ticks over. Not sure if that was original or if some PO messed it up. It's on my list of things to address.
Good video, and thanks. Try to figure out a high oil pressure reading on a 44' trawler. We're at sea at the moment, and it's reading 80psi. Both engines were serviced a month ago. I'm inclined to think it's a faulty sensor - any thoughts?
@@TrevorTownsendOfficial Just seeing this. Sorry. No other way than to verify with a separate, stand-along gauge/tester, unfortunately. I have a Perkins that read high. Temporarily installed a mechanical gauge to test. Original gauge was faulty. Good luck.
Did you put teflon tape around the threads before putting them on the new pump ?
Which threads? The hose barb fittings? No, I use Rector Seal No. 5.
Is it possible to put that little pin in backwards ?
@@claykerr300 As I say in the video, American Diesel specifies that the pin goes in tapered end first.
Helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Hello, We spoke via email about your the purchase of your Alberg 30 quite some time ago. I have lost track of your email address. Can you let me know how to contact you again? Thanks!
I have rebuilt several Rule pumps, 2000 and 3700 and a Chinese pump from Amazon. Basically the bottom seals fail from SS shaft corrosion and let in the water. Got new brushes and ground to fit where needed. A secret is to us silicone dielectric grease to saturate and seal the seals. It wont wash away and repels water. The rule pumps, the impellors are difficult to remove with some damage. One impeller I did crack off the center hub. Devcon epoxy will repair the plastic impeller. I was thinking of next time, slitting the impeller hub to be able to slip it off. I bought a can of dielectric grease for $10 and it works great. And brushes from Amazon. Then can be sanded down to fit as long as they are bigger than OEM. Rule uses an odd size deliberately. The wires slip thru the black bushing, use the dielectric grease and slip them back as you take pump apart. Grease everything including wires when putting back together.
My Balmar is setup to charge 3 8d AGM batteries which have come to their end of life. I have replaced them with 2 300 amp hr LiFePO batteries and I was told that the AGM regulator I have been using should be the right voltage range for new batteries. The sterling alternator protection looks like the way to go. I have a 100 amp alternator and they say 50% of capacity in amps for charging so theoretically it should work fine for 600 amps. I've heard of finicky BMS's burning up alternators so I've been researching it when I came upon your video. Regards
I have the same pump it died after 3 months.... pure junk!
Nice walk through. Many thanks.
Hey, by any chance do you happen to know where to find parts for these?
Check with this guy. www.boatcityyachts.com/davids%20yacht%20service.htm
Hello, I just ordered a 270Ah Lithium battery to replace my GEL house batteries and plan to do the same thing you’ve done! I have a balmar 70 which I plan to have the MC-614 charge directly. I ordered an Orion 12/12-18 I intent to connect to the house bank to keep my Gel starting battery topped off. What solution did you choose to keep your start battery connected and charged? Thanks!
Hello! It sounds like our approaches are nearly identical. I added an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 between the LiFePO bank and my FLA start bank, which has worked well.
@@79cd36 Awesome! So I’m thinking I’ll just have an appropriate sized cable from start battery to the starter, and the same from the Orion to the start battery, all fused as needed. Is that how you’re set up?
@@svtavishb.1817 Yep. This video might be helpful too: czcams.com/video/aE06SEJrBpw/video.html
Good to see it’s going good. 👍
Eager for spring!
Why not charge the 2 lithium in parallel so they stay the same for parallel connection once installed as the house bank? Oh and congrats on the lithium upgrade, you'll love it for sure
Hello and thank you. Lion states that the batteries should be “independently fully charged before connecting,” which for parallel connections is presumably a precaution to prevent a potentially damaging current spike when making the parallel connection due to the batteries’ low impedance.
Ah ok I didn't know that about that brand. Makes good sense. Cool thanks!
Finally these long-style pumps have been replaced by a much much better unit.
Indeed. Both engines are running the newer style now.
Ive got a scrap bin full of the longstyle pumps. Only thing worth keeping off them is the D-series (helical cut) or Dover ( straight cut) gears. We have had the short style (made by Lees Marine) here in NZ since the '70's.
Do you run into any issue with water intrusion with the batteries being in the cockpit? The cape dory 36 is on my shortlist, but I’m concerned about space for a decent battery bank.
There are different locker lids on the Cape Dory 36 depending upon the model year. Ours will allow a few drops in without proper gaskets. There are also different battery locations depending upon model year. Some of the later boats have batteries located in the saloon. Others have batteries located under the quarterberth. There are options, particularly if you go with LiFePO tech.
Excellent, particularly the pawl spring explanation and photography.
Glad you liked it!
years later, this video was exactly what i was looking for. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Glad to see you are still sailing, how's the Alberg, Morgan and trawler?
Alberg is free for the taking, Morgan is sold, and the trawler is doing well. Good to hear from you!
@@79cd36 I'd love another A30!!....enjoying my CD25. It's a bit small but the smallness...it's "growing" on me! I'll send you an email, definitely nice to make contact again
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing this info with us.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant! Thank you!
Any issues with the alternator overheating? I’m doing the same thing and everyone is telling me the Lithium will overdraw/overheat my alternator.
No, no issues with overheating. I’m running the Balmar 614 external regulator with the belt-load manager set conservatively to a max of 50 A output, which is more than adequate for bringing my two LiFePO batteries (210ah) back to full charge within a reasonable amount of time. That setting also means my alternator should last longer. 😉
Pretty sure you need a fuse at the alternator protecting the wire from the alternator to your lithium batteries.
Per ABYC standards, I have an appropriately sized class T fuse within 7" of my LiFePO bank on the positive conductor. And per ABYC standard E-11: "Overcurrent protection is not required at an alternator if the ampacity of the conductor is equal to or greater than the rated output of the alternator." My positive conductor coming off the alternator is more than adequate, by a factor of 2, for my alternator's rated output.
Wow! Fifteen years ago! Great memories. Thanks for reminding me.
Very good information. Needed a reminder.
How is done if winch is mounted When I try to turn the Allen key,the whole body of 5he winch turn Do I need something like a monkey wrench to hold it? Thanks before hand
Thank you for the video! very helpful!!
That's really helpful! Thanks for making such a clear and informative video.
Thank you. You wouldn’t believe all the guesswork on boaters forums as to how to do what you just did. 🙄
Thanks for posting this, I appreciate coming across someone with your particular setup. How's this working out for you? I'd appreciate your input on how you are liking your alternator and voltage regulator as well as if this setup is the way to go. Not many people that I've noticed charge their batteries in this order. House then boat/vehicle. I'm interested in doing the same thing more or less. I've been looking at Balmar voltage regulators and didn't know that they built alternators as well. I have a camper van that I'm building out and was considering charging my Lifepo4 house batteries first through an upgraded alternator then to a voltage regulator as you did. My house batteries are 180AH 24v Lifepo4 and the van is 12v so a 24/12v DC to DC charger should do the trick. My biggest concern so far is that if the alternator doesn't finish charging the house batteries before shutting down the vehicle, I will end up with the vehicle batteries not getting charged. If you have any comments to share, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again.
It’s fairly common in marine applications for the alternator to charge the LiFePO bank directly, particularly in my application in which the engine is an auxiliary and isn’t used unless necessary. Given your van application, you might want to stick with the typical configuration of using a DC-DC between start and leisure batteries. This system has worked perfectly fine for me, keeping both house and start batteries charged. The Balmar alternator and regulator have functioned flawlessly so far. They’re a recognized and trusted supplier/manufacturer.
Just to clarify, do I need to take any electrical safety measures before messing with the out let, such as disconnecting the batteries?
Mike, I suggest you consult with a certified marine electrician if you have doubts. At the least, study a text like Nigel Calder's Marine Electrical. If a vessel is equipped with an inverter, for example, there are additional precautions one must take when working with the 120v system beyond simply disconnecting from the dockside power.
Please can the "music" thanks.
I know its been awhile since you made this but thanks for sharing and you did an excellent job all around!
Excellent and so very helpful, thanks a lot!
EN FRANCAIS SVP MERCI
Where can we purchase the bearing of this machine? I'm from the Philippines. I also have like this machine
That is a great video and a very good description of the issue, but you have missed the most important and critical detail. As you clearly show, the bottom compression seal is in good condition and should still be doing its job. The reason that it can't do its job is that it has been dislodged from its original position. Again, as you rightly show, it is a compression seal that requires the seal to be tightly help agaist the washer mounted in the base of the cartridge. It is held there by the impeller which in turn is held there by the circlip which is lodged into the groove at the end of the stainless steel shaft that runs from the electrical motor. If this circlip is dislodged or corrodes away then the impeller falls down and as a consequence, so does the compression seal. I have studied your video with some good views of your impeller and associated screws and hardware at the 43 and 49 second mark and cannot see any circlip. Did you remove the circlip? Do you still have the circlip? I would be fascinated to see it if you could show it on another video. Keep up the great work. Cheers.
Dean, the pump was (maybe) a year old and in a freshwater environment (Great Lakes). All pieces were present without any damage or corrosion, including the impeller and circlip. There was no visible indication that the pump had failed other than that it immediately blew the inline fuse when it was switched on. I removed the pump from the bottom strainer and tried to turn the impeller by hand. It wouldn’t spin freely due to the corrosion inside the motor housing. It was then that I removed the circlip and impeller to access the watertight housing and the pump motor. Thanks for the comment.
Here you go. czcams.com/video/xn7i3Aq9yUI/video.html
@@79cd36 Thanks for letting me know those details. I was just trying to work out how the water got in as i have had the same issue. Any ideas?
Nice video.
Did you use a PPF-113 puller to remove the prop? Pro pull made
I'm not sure of the model, but likely.
Nice and clear description. Wish mine were that accessible, I have the Morse MT3 dual controls at dual stations which has some difficulties getting in and out of gear sometimes from both stations. Kind of scary in docking situations. Too bad this video doesn't address the MT3 but worth watching anyway.