I use the pinhole method: you have to pinhole the bottom layer with 100’s of pinholes so the top layer will iron down without bubbling. To make all the holes, I use a sharpened T pin.
I wish I found this channel years ago. 😊 I’ve covered a lot of planes. I am just about done with a Balsa USA NorthStar, and it’s been my most challenging build and cover so far. Part of the problem is that I used old Monokote in the beginning and then newer stuff later on. The new fresh covering was a dream to work with compared to the old.
Great project! Monokote will last a long time if you keep it cool. If it sits in the shop and gets hot/cold for years, the adhesive starts acting funny.
Thanks! I have a modified woodpecker tool but I don't hardly use it because it pulls up on the monokote as the pin comes out of the hole. Not the cleanest way to do it.
Thanks, you gave me an idea for a 3d printing project. I think the trick would be to keep the pin protrusion as short as possible to minimize the lifting motion of the pins for monokote. Maybe have a couple different barrels, one for wood with longer pins
@@carrid02 I use the woodpecker for this all the time. The lifting is a non issue after ironing down the top layer. You'd never even know. It's as clean a way to do it as anything I've ever seen suggested by anyone.
Gave up doing the "pin hole" rubbish 30yrs ago! I bought Fey Stillies (THE Monokote Master) books & videos. I Just use Monokote Trim Solvent , & use it the way it's meant to be used. Biggest problem ppl cause themselves, is too HIGHER HEAT. Cool Iron - 95~98°c , for Mono over Mono & LOTS of PATIENTS. I have 20 yr old Pattern Planes, with 800+ flights on them, no wrinkles/bubbles & they never need re-schrinking . All about correct Technique. For ppl whom say to me "Monokote is rubbish" , I say to them "your Technique is rubbish". IMHO.
For an overlapping seam of monokote, I sometimes see a little of the adhesive smear out during the ironing. It's more noticeable on dark covering, but I'm having trouble removing those smears of adhesive from the top of the monokote. Acetone seems to just make the smears even larger .... spreading them a bit. Any tips for removing those smears of adhesive?
Acetone works, you just have to press hard and work the adhesive off. Takes time/elbow grease. The best way to keep that from happening is to use lower heat when applying monokote on monokote. And, run the iron parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. (Which will squish adhesive outward).
@@carrid02 Thanks for reply. My recent issues were during my most difficult covering experience ..... the gulled wing of a Corsair. It goes from convex to concave shape in mere inches of differences in some places. Still working on cleanup after having to use the trim iron in some places.
@@EdMarbach yeah that’s tough for sure… I’d probably cover that in multiple small pieces and overlap the seams 1/4”. Lots of pulling, iron, repeat. Then light hit with the blower to shrink up any wrinkles.
@@williamhoenstine5057if using that solvent, you better put the monokote down exactly where you want it. That stuff don't play. You can also use Windex to do the same thing.
@@carrid02 I have used the woodpecker for this purpose repeatedly and the finish is perfect. The tiny little bit of pull up makes absolutely no difference at all, none.
I wish I found this channel years ago. 😊 I’ve covered a lot of planes. I am just about done with a Balsa USA NorthStar, and it’s been my most challenging build and cover so far. Part of the problem is that I used old Monokote in the beginning and then newer stuff later on. The new fresh covering was a dream to work with compared to the old.
Great project! Monokote will last a long time if you keep it cool. If it sits in the shop and gets hot/cold for years, the adhesive starts acting funny.
You made that look so easy. I have never seen the pinhole method before, nice one.
Thanks!
Great vid mate thanks looks nice
They used to make a “woodpecker “ for the pinholes. I should have gotten one while I could. I love these kinds of covering tips. Keep em coming.
Thanks! I have a modified woodpecker tool but I don't hardly use it because it pulls up on the monokote as the pin comes out of the hole. Not the cleanest way to do it.
Ishould have got one as well obsolete now, I use vinyl but dont get a good color match
Woodpecker is what I use. Always looks perfect when done.
Thanks, you gave me an idea for a 3d printing project. I think the trick would be to keep the pin protrusion as short as possible to minimize the lifting motion of the pins for monokote. Maybe have a couple different barrels, one for wood with longer pins
@@carrid02 I use the woodpecker for this all the time. The lifting is a non issue after ironing down the top layer. You'd never even know. It's as clean a way to do it as anything I've ever seen suggested by anyone.
Gave up doing the "pin hole" rubbish 30yrs ago!
I bought Fey Stillies (THE Monokote Master) books & videos.
I Just use Monokote Trim Solvent , & use it the way it's meant to be used.
Biggest problem ppl cause themselves, is too HIGHER HEAT.
Cool Iron - 95~98°c , for Mono over Mono & LOTS of PATIENTS. I have 20 yr old Pattern Planes, with 800+ flights on them, no wrinkles/bubbles & they never need re-schrinking .
All about correct Technique.
For ppl whom say to me "Monokote is rubbish" ,
I say to them
"your Technique is rubbish".
IMHO.
Once you try the Windex method you will never punch another hole! works with any covering that has a smooth adhesive back (not ultracote)
Man I’ve tried using the windex method on monokote and ultracote… I must not know the secret because I can’t make it work. Oh well.
@@carrid02 Doesn't work on ultracote.
For an overlapping seam of monokote, I sometimes see a little of the adhesive smear out during the ironing. It's more noticeable on dark covering, but I'm having trouble removing those smears of adhesive from the top of the monokote. Acetone seems to just make the smears even larger .... spreading them a bit. Any tips for removing those smears of adhesive?
Acetone works, you just have to press hard and work the adhesive off. Takes time/elbow grease.
The best way to keep that from happening is to use lower heat when applying monokote on monokote. And, run the iron parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. (Which will squish adhesive outward).
@@carrid02 Thanks for reply. My recent issues were during my most difficult covering experience ..... the gulled wing of a Corsair. It goes from convex to concave shape in mere inches of differences in some places. Still working on cleanup after having to use the trim iron in some places.
@@EdMarbach yeah that’s tough for sure… I’d probably cover that in multiple small pieces and overlap the seams 1/4”. Lots of pulling, iron, repeat. Then light hit with the blower to shrink up any wrinkles.
I use Top Flite MonoKote Trim Solvent that works great. Don't know if you can buy it anymore.
@@williamhoenstine5057if using that solvent, you better put the monokote down exactly where you want it. That stuff don't play. You can also use Windex to do the same thing.
Good stuff Craig, thx
Thx!
How do you seal the hinge gap? Do you have a video of that?
A little warning about the monkote iron from top flite, they contain abestos! So beware!
Can you use the pinhole roller on an open bay in a wing. In order to cover over?
I use an individual pin and make the holes one at a time. The roller pulls on the monokote as it comes out of the hole which isn't desirable.
@@carrid02 I have used the woodpecker for this purpose repeatedly and the finish is perfect. The tiny little bit of pull up makes absolutely no difference at all, none.
What blue are you using for the leading edges? Insignia or sapphire?
Sean Dickerson - W5AJO actually, I believe I used Metallic blue on that plane
@@carrid02 thanks for the reply! What’s the status on this build? Is it near completion?
Sean Dickerson - W5AJO yeah man! It’s done and flown! I’d attach pics but not sure how lol
@@carrid02 well, one of these days, you’ll have to take it back out and take a video. Have fun!
Very good video.