Jeep 3.7 & 4.7 Air Bleed Up-Grade for Cooling System
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- If you can't remove the air bleed fitting for the cooling system of the 3.7 and 4.7L Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Mitsubishi this is an easy mod that can be made so you are able to purge the cooling system of all the air which is very important. This is also a great mod for an easily removable 10AN cap that only needs a few inch pounds to seal.
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Your cooling system videos helped me cure my chronic mild overheating on my 2003 4.7L. It would always heat up to 235 - 240 degrees F under normal conditions. After properly bleeding, its now always runs around 210 F now. Thank you sir!
I'm glad it worked out for you. I believe this is the cause of valve seat drop with the 4.7 and the 5.7 Hemi is improper purging of the cooling system.
@@martinbuilt I think you're right. The overheating was occurring on a newly installed remanufactured engine. The installer did not properly bleed the system. Had I not paid attention to my coolant temperature; I could have had a premature engine failure down the road. I'm glad to see you posting new videos for the 4.7. Keep them coming!
@@thecoolstuffchannel5980 Glad, I could help.
I couldn't find the video you're talking about where is it
I leaked 1L of coolant and temp went to 220F and dropped a seat so you def lucky
Im gonna do this asap on mine. My bleed nut was stripped when bought . inexpensive and easy mod. Love your videos
I've been a machinist, a boilermaker, auto mechanic, built race engines and MANY drag cars. I started working on cars over 60 years ago and have never seen anyone recommend tapping NPT so the fitting bottoms out. That's a sure way to having a leak. Every time that fitting is taken back out and reinserted it cuts the threads a little deeper and at some point it won't tighten and will leak under pressure. The threads should be cut a little more than half-way so it can used many times without worrying about the fitting not being able to tighten. I've wasted many good steam, fuel and oil fittings doing what you just did. Teflon tape will help in some cases but on the long run it will start leaking at the threads and
in high heat and/or high vibration, will work loose. Anyone watching this video, DON'T CUT THE THREADS THAT DEEP!
Thanks for your comment appreciate the advice. But once this fitting is installed it never has to be removed, you only need to remove the cap. I only installed it all the way down only for Aesthetics as mentioned in the video.
I tend to agree w/Martin, unless you break the fitting off why would you remove it. That's the point of the o-ring hex head cap. Now it might not be as effective on a drag strip engine, but on a daily driver or even an off road buggy, surfices just fine & NO specialized tools to make it work. Interesting point though slightly irrelevant if you understand why it's on there. Have a great day.
The perfect fit for my dilemma! The suggested parts are on their way. Thanks Martinbuilt, love that ingenuity and then sharing it!
Finally a video worth watching thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
You're the best mechanic brother..thank's
just ordered the luminum adapter and ORB cap in blue from your Amazon affiliate page, about to do a full flush and replace upper and lower hoses
Thanks for the videos on the 4.7! keep em coming :)
That sounds good. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
According to Chrysler factory data, the 3.7 is self bleeding with the reservoir/overflow tank. No bleeding procedure is given in the 3.7 factory maintenance manual, other than fill 'er up, drive it and monitor the coolant level in the reservoir. topping off when necessary.....
Excellent mod Martin! ill be doing this to my Jeep ASAP!
I just put in a old style Rad petcock on my 4.7 to bleed out the air works great I kept the old plug in case I needed it down the road .
I've never thought I would be doing this mod. My God, I stripped my bolt. Hahaha
I like that!! ! Took me 2 weeks to fully bleed one of mine.
Yeah it's something you definitely want to make sure you get all the air out of. I believe it's the number one cause of valve seat drop because of hot spots in the cylinder head caused by air bubbles
3:00 I thought you cut your fingers lol 11:10 free Flashlight from Harbour Freight me thinks.. I have one right next to me lol Fair Winds and Smiles
Lol. . Oh the red grease huh, yeah I got a bunch of those free flashlights from Harbor Freight
Awesome mod. Just completed the first mod on my 4.7 HO. Very clean and effective upgrade. Thanks for uploading and keep up the great work.
This is brilliant! I’m going to do this when I do my e fan mod soon! Martin is Always thinking ahead!!
Thank you Cody!
@al carr I've never even seen a coolant vacuum tool before, I'll be trying one of those out.
The only problem with the temp sensor it is mounted below the level of the bleed screw and wouldn't help in removing the air.
Using a spring-loaded tap follower will make the tapped hole perfectly straight.
Thanks John, never even heard of a spring-loaded tap. I'll have to look into that.
www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=spring-loaded+tap+follower
I have a 2003 Dodge Durango 4.7 and my upper radiator hose has the cap on that hose and the radiator cap sits higher than the purge valve i bleed the system with the cap off and it seemed to work my heat works great now.
yes, the Dodge Durango and Rams have the radiator cap higher than the bleed plug, using the rad cap to bleed out the air works well.
Nice, good idea man. Always fun trying to bleed the 4.7
Nice solution in general for most autos.
I’m assuming you could also do this to the 3.7 as well, very neat idea,
Love your content.
Yes you could definitely do that on the 3.7, thank you
Yes, I'm in the process of executing this fix with my 2007 Grand Cherokee 3.7L
Hi, I just discovered your channel a few days ago and appreciate your hard work making these videos. If I may, is that a bleeder valve that's behind the thermostat housing? Can that be used during the bleeding process or only for draining the engine of coolant? Thank you again even if you can't answer my question.
Cool definitely thinking about doing this with mine. Thanks.
Doesn't that fitting extend down into the coolant passage blocking it a little?
i appreciate your beard.
Great video! Heads-up, the 10AN to 3/8 NPT Fitting Amazon link sent me to a 4AN to 1/4 (ordered by mistake).
Thanks for the heads-up, I fixed the link.
@@martinbuilt Awesome! I am a big fan. I ran into your videos recently after purchasing a rust belt WJ. They have turned my anxiety into drive. Thanks again!
Started working on my new WJ and did a coolant flush ... what do you know it has a strip bleeder valve! I will be doing this mod and I'm going to film it and throw a ton of praise Your way!
Yeah, I have seen that many times at Pic-a-Part that the bleeder is striped. Good luck with that, looking forward to seeing your video.
@@martinbuilt thanks buddy, hey on the hydro fan are those little ball bearings around the rim the counterweights?
@@ProjectDanH yes those are to balance the fan and motor, so the motor and fan are balanced as a unit.
Thanks for your very helpful video!!
To me if I could remove the stock eight mil plug I'd replace it with a pipe plug that can be removed with an adjustable. You are not going to strip a pipe plug. Then I would use a funnel to bleed the system. Because I like taking the easy way out.
May I ask why not just use regular screw in place for a sensor to save time and work for drilling? Or if it's possible to do that. I have exactly the same issue.
first class work Martin.
I never liked using the grease had bad experiences with globs falling in with shavings then made it harder to vacuum/ blow them shavings out....
What do you prefer to use?
Yeah, so I ordered the 10an fitting and cap off of the link. Upon installing the fitting into the coolant bleed port housing, I cannot thread the cap onto the fitting. The cap is too small.
Sorry about that, I fixed the links and added the eBay links who I got mine from.
Amazon
10AN to 3/8 NPT Fitting amzn.to/2Yv5A31
10AN Aluminum Cap O-Ring Flare Cap amzn.to/3dq20ex
eBay
10AN Flare to 3/8 NPT Adapter AN Fitting BLACK ebay.to/37ZByqZ
10AN Flare Cap With Internal O-ring ORB BLACK / 10AN Cap ebay.to/3fRPne0
I had to heat up around the air bleed plug with my map gas torch to get it loose.
yeah, that's not surprising I have seen many of them very tight or seized.
I know this vid is 4 years old, but what (tap) socket size did you use for that 3/8" NPT tap? Thanks, if you see this.
You are write the cooling is very important for 4.7 engines .
S. B and 3.7
Martin what about the 4.0 Jeep
Why are the 3.7 and 4.7 such a nightmare to get air out of the cooling system?
Right on!
Glad you liked it 👍 😊
What's a good way to bleed this without this
How much do you charge for this assembled fitting ?
I ordered a 32mm air bleed/ coolant hose adaptor (to run a aftermarket fan controller) I believe it said the temp sensor threads are 1/4npt but, they look small! I also ordered a new temp sensor for my 07 Pontiac G5 because I was trying the think of how I could extend my temperature sensor wires without damaging my harness at all. Anyways, the one they sent measures 34mm. The sensor opening looks very small. Plus it has a grounding screw in it. I went to a parts store & measured the coolant tube for my G5 & one hose measured 32mm the other measures 34mm. They say to order them a just a bit bigger then needed but, I need one that fits my coolant tube & a aftermarket fan controller. Also, I don't know which fan controller is quality? I would want a fan over ride switch to be able to turn on the fan when I WANT TO BUT, To still have the fan run at a predetermined time
When measuring the diameter don't measure the ridge of the adapter. You can drill and tap the hole to 1/4 NPT.
That part of stripping the plug over torqueing it .Just happened here It sealed ,but now will not come out without potential damage. Better left alone for now i think before more damage. Now bleeding at the coolant temp sensor. I know it is lower ,but what else ?.Had an idea to add a fitting to raise the coolant temp sensor, but uncertain if it will do any good. Now I just seen your idea. Confused on this. Noticed the fan on the liberty does not come on until 219 degrees F. Thought it was suppose to be 212F ?
Hey Martin...I am utilizing this mod, and adding a watertemp sensor with the sleeve. I am also adding an electric oil pressure guage, and i am wondering if you have ever used the 1/2" NPT port that is right above the oil filter for this purpous?
I plan on using that half inch NPT port for a oil accumulator. I'll be using the top port to supply oil to the engine during cold engine starts. It would work for a oil pressure sending unit is well.
@@martinbuilt Thanks Martin! I really appreciate the conformation on this one......
Thank you!!!
Glad you liked it.
Does anyone know a way to purge the coolent system on an old 1973 Dodge B300 van with the 318? I'm basically on the road and my radiator is toast. I have a new one and everything I need but no clue how to get air out ( if even needed with this model).
My 40 just came in the mail. It looks so small
Hey @martinbuilt. I have an '02 WJ with the 4.7L PT. I recently replaced the radiator due to a leak from one of the plastic tanks. I also replaced the radiator cap, water pump, the upper and lower hoses, and the thermostat and thermostat housing. I did install a 185° thermostat. I am now going on 3 weeks of fighting with air building up in the system. I have tired several different methods including watching your videos and following your procedure. Each time I believe that I have the system bled, I will drive a few days and eventually start hearing a "rushing water" sound coming from the heater core during a cold start. I will also hear that same sound in stop and go driving each time I press the accelerator. I'm beginning to think I have a crack somewhere, or a head gasket issue. Currently, both oil and coolant are clean. I'm at a loss and hope that you can help. Thanks
When bleeding the air out of the system you wanna do this on a cold engine and this could take 15 maybe even 20 minutes to bleed the air out properly. Are you having to add any coolant to the system?
If not you don't have any leaks.
@@martinbuilt When I remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold, it will send a lot of air to the expansion tank. Once the cap is removed I top off the radiator with 50/50 mix. Last night, I pulled the cap on a cold engine. It did not bubble up in the expansion tank, and the radiator was full. I let it run in the driveway for about an hour completely sealed and monitored to make sure the thermostat was cycling. I drove it this morning, and the heater was noticeably hotter than the last time I drove it. I'll check again tomorrow morning after it's sat all night. Thank you for taking the time to reply. I appreciate the level of detail in your videos. I've referenced them many times. Looking to swap in an '08+ intake manifold this winter.
Hey would this work on the 5.2? Always seem to get air in the system and do not see or know of any leaks. Thanks
yeah, this should work on any engine. Just need to check the inside diameter of the radiator hose and get the right size adapter.
Will this work for an 09 Dodge Nitro 3.7 V6... I bought couple weeks ago and the bleeder had a black seal coated to apparently stop what looks like a leak. Coolant is still seeping through.
yes it sure will
Where did you order those type of bleeder fittings from? I was looking to order them.
Do you have a video of how to bleed the cooling system with that setup?
Where can I get your product at and how much
Any suggestions for a stuck bleeder screw? After the water pump went out on my WJ and stranded me again I broke down and got a WK2 and replaced the water pump on my 02 WJ today just to have a running vehicle to sell but I can't get that screw to budge. I'm afraid I'm gonna crack the whole housing it sits in. Any suggestions on that other than letting it soak in pb blaster?
Perhaps try adding some heat with a propane torch around the plug but not directly to the plug.
You could also bleed it by removing the radiator cap that should do a fairly good job that way.
@martinbuilt Thanks Levon Helm. You've made some great videos. I will try the torch. I do have one. It was very strange, the coolant kept coming back up out of the cap (with the cap off). It was a process but the heat began working once I started driving it and the temperature gauge finally went back to normal. Might need more coolant. It took a lot I was surprised. I just need to get rid of it. It's not in the shape yours is in. It burns oil, airbag and check engine light are on. The ac is full but doesn't cool very well. Weird pieces of foam come out of the defroster every now and then lol. The power seats don't move. Heated driver side doesn't work anymore. I just don't have the time for it anymore. It's still in my work parking lot. Soon to be for sale. Thanks again Martin!
Martin, just wondering why you chose a 40 mm radiator hose adapter and not a 38 mm. I have a 4.0L and the upper hose measures 38 mm inside diameter - is the 4.7 upper radiator hose a bit larger or are you just allowing that the hose will stretch out a bit when it gets hot or older? Thanks! Love your videos!
Thank you, yes the 40 mm adapter was the perfect size for the 4.7 radiator hose.
I've got a quick question off the topic, What do you think about the Snipping of the YELLOW N GREEN STRIPED WIRE FOR THE TORQUE MANAGMENT SYSTEM ??? THANX. ✌👀
I say do it. I did it in a way that it could be hooked back up again if I wanted to.
@@martinbuilt toggle it ! 👍👀
great video, i have a question, Does the size of the drilling and fitting matter?
Yes it does, for this application.
Hi Martin, thanks for the videos.
I don't mean to be troublesome, I'm genuinely interested in figuring out if my physics is off, hopefully it is, please let me know.
Wouldn't raising the height of the highest point of the cooling system by adding the raised fitting (now higher than the port to the reservoir), mean that each time that you open the radiator cap the level of the coolant in the system will drop to the same level as the port to the reservoir and mean you now have an air pocket in the ANN fitting, which when the engine is restarted will become an air bubble?
Just a couple of additional points on the coolant/bleed opic that may help others reading the comments.
1) in Australia you can but green HOAT coolant, I see a lot of video content repeating that you have non-HOAT coolant if it's green, which is not necessarily the case, at least in Australia.
2) I'm pretty sure the reason that the allen plugs get stripped is because the bleeder is tightened when the system is hot and the metal is expanded. When it cools the threads tighten and it freezes. I spent three days trying to get my allen plug to crack open, I used penetrating oil, an impact wrench, a wrench with breaker bar, all with no luck. I then had no option but to go with adding another bleeder port. When tightening the plug on the new bleeder I noticed I was able to tighten it further down than when the adapter and plug were off the vehicle (I didnt use the ANN style fitting). I then tried cracking the original plug after driving the car and it opened up easily. So, that could help someone out, no one else seems to mention this trick.
3) lastly, in your bleed video, I think it's very important to mention adding coolant to the open radiator cap while running the vehicle to get air bubbles out, otherwise whatever coolant exits out of the bleeder port just leaves space for air in the system die to the fact the system can't pressurise to draw from the reservoir, am I off here?
Thanks again, I'd be interested in your feedback.
Roger
1) the color does not mean anything, the manufacturer adds the color. All coolant would be clear. In many of the Chrysler's the radiator cap is higher than the bleed screw.
3) yes your off there. it's got nothing to do with pressurizing.
@@martinbuilt thanks for getting back to me Martin.
Just ordered the parts :-)
What about a 3/8 NPT fitting with a ball valve/tap on it if you're doing this job regularly though?
Yeah you could do that, I just personally wouldn't find it very attractive but it would definitely make it easy to service
@martinbuilt would burping the system by squeezing the top rad hose be okay with the cap off instead since I can't get my bleed screw out?
I would remove the radiator cap and run the engine as shown. The air should escape that way. Give it at least 15 minutes.
i wish you sold this item already assembled.
Hi , hey if I were to purchase the items how.much would you charge me to make the new bleed screw that goes in the upper hose .. I don't have a drill press etc....
I have the one that I made in the video. Contact me on Facebook Messenger
4.7 it has a problem with over heating? That the purpose of modification?.
I wouldn't say the 4.7 has an actual overheating problem, my particular Jeep did run hot due to the hydraulic cooling fan was not turning enough RPM. I eventually removed it and replaced it with a electric fan and even in southern Nevada Heat it runs right at 185 degrees.
The mod in this video was just to help remove the air from the system and not lose so much coolant when purging.
the depthness of the plug will restrict the water flow through the tube ,, am i the only one that thinks this? wouldnt be more of a concern to find the correct depth of plug to replace or convert the cooling system?
There is no worry of how deep the fitting goes into the cast, it is extremely thick right there and there is no restriction if flow.
Where to find one for jeep liberty
If you have a 3.7 V6 engine, it should be the same size that was used for the 4.7
I was wondering do you sell the blue and black
I sold the one that I built in the video.
How has this held up a year later? Will you be doing this mod to your dakota?
yeah it's been great and yes I will be doing this to the Dakota.
IS THE ORIGINAL BLEEDER SCREW A 8AN ? i cant find this information anywhere
it is an 3/8 NPT
@@martinbuilt excellent thank you . I figured it was along those lines
question: is it ok to NOT have a thermostat?
Definitely not recommended. The engine needs to get up to at least a certain minimum temperature or it will increase the internal wear
@@martinbuilt ok thanks for the info! & thank you for taking the time to be detailed when you explain things!
@@martinbuilt i just installed the air bleeder adapter you recommended . thank you oh so very much! worked great!
Martin, do you have a video on how to PORPERLY bleed a 3.7/4.7? I've got a jeep with the 3.7 and I'm always afraid that I've left air in there. I dont have nay overheating issues, needle stays at half or a hair below half.
I don't have a video on just that but, I do show how to in a few different videos.
@@martinbuilt I just started watching your channel, in which video(s) do you show how to do it?