I also still use my Speed Graphic, its curtain shutter is a great feature, meaning I can adapt any odd lens and still successfully time the exposure. Due to the 8x10 camera having already been built, it would have been difficult to adapt a curtain shutter without totally rebuilding the camera. I wanted a shutter up front on the lens. Some alternative shutter ideas, mentioned in the video, include travelling slit shutters, moving either horizontally or vertically, under spring tension. I've also used my Bronica ETRS with Harman DPP, and it works well. I agree about its electronic shutter, very handy. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this interesting video! You probably know this but just in case you don't, you "invented" a bow tie shutter commonly found in motion picture cameras. The issue of the shutter bouncing back and leaving a light leak may be solved by switching to a "half moon" shutter, also found in movie cameras. To change the shutter speed you'd adjust the angle of the "semi" circular shutter.
Klaus, thank you for the advice about improving the shutter. Yes, it's a primitive shutter, perhaps on par with the pneumatic shutters used on LF barrel lenses. A future version could be much better.
Joe,thank You for Your kind reply. I'm eager to watch Part 2 with the fieldtest and the outcome of the images being made by You. I never had the chance to get my hands on One of those barrel shutters You mentioned. Hope I will, someday. And surely I wouldn't call Your shutter primitiv. The idea behind it is great and I'm sure You'll fix the issues. So maybe I can ask You for the pinout of that time measuring device You build for Your scope, as I'd really like to build one for mine. Thanks again, All the best, Klaus
Just stumbled across this video and I have to say that I admire your design and ingenuity. Like Klaus says, friction is not your friend so eliminating it everywhere possible will give you faster and more consistent speeds. A direct acting spring might help, maybe attached to the point where the cord goes around the pin to eliminate that friction. I'm fascinated by the different approaches that have been taken to shutter design.
Hello Joe,very inspirational video, indeed! May I add one or two thoughts, if You don't mind ? One of the things I've learned from repairing cameras and their shutters is that you want to get rid of any unwanted friction.It makes the shutter highly inconsistent.Doesn't matter where it comes from,dirt,hardened grease etc.So maybe it's possible to get rid of these" lightseals" on the back of the blades and build some sort of lighttrap in front of the mechanism instead?The blades look quite massiv.So in order to get a higher acceleration/ speed it would also be good to get rid of weight, specially in the outer parts.Maybe another sort of spring, a round one like in an escapement of a clock, directly attached to the blades would bring some more accurassy and would eliminate the pivot and the pully. ( Less weight and friction, higher speed ) . May I ask You for a pinout of that probe You're using ? Maybe I can find something similar in one of my old VCRs in my workshop and attach it to my old Philips Scope . Thank You again for sharing Your thoughts, I highly appreciate it . Please keep up the good work ! Cheers,,Klaus
That was fabulously interesting and I thank you for sharing all your cool thinking and work. For measuring shutter speeds: This may be of interest more to other viewers than to you: the iOS "Slo Mo" video camera function on some iPhones (iPads?) goes to 240 frames per second (you might need a later-model iPhone to get beyond 120 fps). Assuming we can view the video frame-by-frame, the shutter speed (if in the range 1/30 - 1/60 second or slower) should be pretty easy to measure. Thanks for a fascinating video. Well done!
Did you contemplate using a curtain shutter like the old Graphics did. My curtain shutter still works,but I use it sparingly due to its age. I went the oposite direction with small paper negs by making a single shot back for my Bronica using single shot holders from my Mamiya TLR. The Bronica has a nice 8 second setting thats accurate.Good Luck with this project. I have no doubt you'll solve this
Hi Joe, Have you ever considered making a motion picture film camera? A bit more complicated than this project but itd be very interesting to see. Thanks!
It’s an interesting thought. The challenge is the film has to move in stutter-steps, between frames, then stop long enough for the shutter to open and close.
@@Joe_VanCleave maybe you could have a shutter like the one from this camera: czcams.com/video/7Q_SgMvTO-o/video.html and then have a gear on the same axle which only has the teeth in the closed position of the shutter which drives another gear on the film spool, so engagement and movement only happen when the shutter is closed? Again, obviously it would take some work, and you'd have to time cranking the camera to get a good exposure, but could be an interesting proof of concept. I might try it someday, but I'd really enjoy seeing anything you might want to try for it!
This is truly beautiful, such amazing designs that dont include complicated rotary shutter springs. Truly amazing
I also still use my Speed Graphic, its curtain shutter is a great feature, meaning I can adapt any odd lens and still successfully time the exposure.
Due to the 8x10 camera having already been built, it would have been difficult to adapt a curtain shutter without totally rebuilding the camera. I wanted a shutter up front on the lens.
Some alternative shutter ideas, mentioned in the video, include travelling slit shutters, moving either horizontally or vertically, under spring tension.
I've also used my Bronica ETRS with Harman DPP, and it works well. I agree about its electronic shutter, very handy.
Thanks for watching!
What an absolutely fantastic design! Thank you so much for making and uploading this video!
Thank you for this interesting video! You probably know this but just in case you don't, you "invented" a bow tie shutter commonly found in motion picture cameras. The issue of the shutter bouncing back and leaving a light leak may be solved by switching to a "half moon" shutter, also found in movie cameras. To change the shutter speed you'd adjust the angle of the "semi" circular shutter.
That's a good idea, I'll try it when I can. Thanks for watching!
Klaus, thank you for the advice about improving the shutter. Yes, it's a primitive shutter, perhaps on par with the pneumatic shutters used on LF barrel lenses. A future version could be much better.
Joe,thank You for Your kind reply. I'm eager to watch Part 2 with the fieldtest and the outcome of the images being made by You. I never had the chance to get my hands on One of those barrel shutters You mentioned. Hope I will, someday. And surely I wouldn't call Your shutter primitiv. The idea behind it is great and I'm sure You'll fix the issues. So maybe I can ask You for the pinout of that time measuring device You build for Your scope, as I'd really like to build one for mine.
Thanks again,
All the best, Klaus
Just stumbled across this video and I have to say that I admire your design and ingenuity. Like Klaus says, friction is not your friend so eliminating it everywhere possible will give you faster and more consistent speeds. A direct acting spring might help, maybe attached to the point where the cord goes around the pin to eliminate that friction. I'm fascinated by the different approaches that have been taken to shutter design.
I like it! I’m a bit late to the party, but always good to see the work of a fellow experimenter. Very interesting stuff.
Hello Joe,very inspirational video, indeed!
May I add one or two thoughts, if You don't mind ? One of the things I've learned from repairing cameras and their shutters is that you want to get rid of any unwanted friction.It makes the shutter highly inconsistent.Doesn't matter where it comes from,dirt,hardened grease etc.So maybe it's possible to get rid of these" lightseals" on the back of the blades and build some sort of lighttrap in front of the mechanism instead?The blades look quite massiv.So in order to get a higher acceleration/ speed it would also be good to get rid of weight, specially in the outer parts.Maybe another sort of spring, a round one like in an escapement of a clock, directly attached to the blades would bring some more accurassy and would eliminate the pivot and the pully. ( Less weight and friction, higher speed ) .
May I ask You for a pinout of that probe You're using ? Maybe I can find something similar in one of my old VCRs in my workshop and attach it to my old Philips Scope . Thank You again for sharing Your thoughts, I highly appreciate it . Please keep up the good work !
Cheers,,Klaus
Fun and inspirational, very good job!
Looking forward to seeing part two.
That was fabulously interesting and I thank you for sharing all your cool thinking and work. For measuring shutter speeds: This may be of interest more to other viewers than to you: the iOS "Slo Mo" video camera function on some iPhones (iPads?) goes to 240 frames per second (you might need a later-model iPhone to get beyond 120 fps). Assuming we can view the video frame-by-frame, the shutter speed (if in the range 1/30 - 1/60 second or slower) should be pretty easy to measure. Thanks for a fascinating video. Well done!
Did you contemplate using a curtain shutter like the old Graphics did. My curtain shutter still works,but I use it sparingly due to its age. I went the oposite direction with small paper negs by making a single shot back for my Bronica using single shot holders from my Mamiya TLR. The Bronica has a nice 8 second setting thats accurate.Good Luck with this project. I have no doubt you'll solve this
This is awesome. Did you fix the rebound? My first thought is some rare earth magnets to keep it from rebounding but I am late to the game here.
I haven't revisited this shutter project, but your idea of magnets is a good one.
Hi Joe. Di d u try to turn the whole device by 180 degrees? Maybe this helps to prevent the shutter from opening again.
Chris
Hi Joe,
Have you ever considered making a motion picture film camera? A bit more complicated than this project but itd be very interesting to see.
Thanks!
It’s an interesting thought. The challenge is the film has to move in stutter-steps, between frames, then stop long enough for the shutter to open and close.
@@Joe_VanCleave maybe you could have a shutter like the one from this camera:
czcams.com/video/7Q_SgMvTO-o/video.html
and then have a gear on the same axle which only has the teeth in the closed position of the shutter which drives another gear on the film spool, so engagement and movement only happen when the shutter is closed?
Again, obviously it would take some work, and you'd have to time cranking the camera to get a good exposure, but could be an interesting proof of concept.
I might try it someday, but I'd really enjoy seeing anything you might want to try for it!