Thanks for this. It confirmed some of my guesses and filled in other gaps, and I concluded that it's not worth changing the surface mounted FET. If you had a large workforce, say at a factory or warehouse chain, you could save a lot of money by standardizing your equipment to a single model and identifying the main failure modes
How can I modify this charger to make it a power supply to provide a constant voltage to turn my cordless tools into corded? Like everyone else, I find the Ryobi batteries don't last long enough.
+ipyroguy1 - You can't modify it to make it a power supply for that purpose. It isn't capable of enough current. You are incorrect when you wrote "like everyone else..." blah blah blah. No, most people find that the Ryobi batteries last long enough, so long as you buy modern 4Ah version of them, and most people also find that it's pretty silly to try to power their cordless tools from an AC-DC power supply because one with sufficient current and decent quality will tend to be 350W at a minimum and cost well over $50 including support parts and a whole lot of your time, just to end up with a tethered brick that's worse to actually use than buying some corded power tools. Ryobi is the last brand you should consider converting to corded, because even their old NiCd 18V tools will run off the modern 18V, 4Ah Li-Ion packs and the chargers including this one in the video are reasonably priced at around $25 to $30, even less for something used.
Small standard screwdriver will get those screws right out without damaging anything. Just put it in half of the screw, not across the whole thing cuz that tamper proof thing is in the way. I use one of those orange Stihl screwdrivers that you used to get with a chainsaw, trimmer, blower, etc.
Sure, if you have the EXACT right size flat blade screwdriver that can work, BUT you're going to be more efficient in the long run to just bust open your wallet and spend the $5 it costs for a set of security torx bits. Imagine that, using the Right Tool For The Job.
I have found that the only problem for the Ryobi P118 was a brown round thingy. Twenty bucks later I am out the door. And that white tag is a “Sensormatic” security and “Stock” reporting. It will tell the owner and buyer who bought it and where, or who stoked it and where. The cashier would place it on a price of magnet and once paid for the tag or sensor tag would shut itself down as it came across the magnet. Good luck and God bless you. And the problem was not the fuse, only that brown looking round thingy. Sorry don’t know it’s actual name.
Hello. Just caught your vid on the Ryobi P118 Charger guts. I need to ask this question as I am in Brazil and to ask someone here to help me fix my charger it is better that I do it my self. I know that my charger is a 110v charger and to plug in to 220v receptacle would be foolish. I usually use a 120/220 transformer which allows me to charge my two Ryobi batts. But this time I was not thinking and plugged her in to a 110v/220v adaptor but then plugged that adaptor into the 229v wall. So my question is what is the possibility of only the fuse blowing which would be easier to fix the problem of me not being able to charge my batteries. Please help. I am in Brazil and the post office is terrible. So I cannot send it to you to fix. I have a meter but do not know how to use it and I would not know if a capacitor or some other electronic wiz motor burned out. Helpppppppp. Edward
A number of things may have been killed, not just the fuse. These use a capacitive doubler rectifier on the input, and feeding it 220VAC means the switcher got fed over 600VDC. This means the switcher chip is probably fried as are the input electrolytic capacitors in the doubler. Depending on the nature of the transient coupled through the transformer, stuff may be blown on the secondary side as well.
What could be the possible problem if you accidentally plugged it into 220v? I had mine by my nephew, it still on but keeps on flashing the red and green light and it’s not stopping or going into charge mode. Any insights on what could be the problem? TIA
@@danward6134 There may be a jumper on the PCB that bridges out part of the bridge rectifier and turns it into a potential doubler rectifier. Cutting this jumper makes it a 240V input charger.
@@randacnam7321 This power supply has no jumper like the ryobi p117. You need to replace the capacitor after the 200v 68uF diode bridge with a 400v 68uf capacitor. And replace the 3-pin mosfet (on the aluminum plate) with a Vds value >= 900V (the mosfet on the video circuit has a Vds of only about 600V). You have successfully converted 120v60hz to 220v/50/60hz.
Zainul Zainuddin Zainuddin Too low and you will get nuisance failures. Too high and the fuse will not do its job in case of a fault. Any decent electronics store or electrical supply house should have the right fuses. Any 1/4in by 1-1/4in 8A slow blow fuse should work. Don't get fast blow ones as they may trip from the capacitor charging inrush.
Me too require p118 to convert from 118 to 220 v use.My new P118 from US connected to converter 220v to110 v also new one and there was noise and charger not working . It is puzzle , New converter checked for converted voltage showing 43 v .Any comment
paulc317 This P118 model doesn't have a voltage divider, unlike those having like the P117 model that can be done by severing a track and replacing a varistor to a higher voltage, so converting to 220v can be more complicated. The best option is using a transformer having a capacity of at least 60W
Is there any problem using higher capacity say 2000w transformer/converter from 220v to 110v . New P 118 charger gone when connected to 2000w capacity conveter.
Thanks for this. It confirmed some of my guesses and filled in other gaps, and I concluded that it's not worth changing the surface mounted FET. If you had a large workforce, say at a factory or warehouse chain, you could save a lot of money by standardizing your equipment to a single model and identifying the main failure modes
Finally! Somebody who speaks my language. Great identifications and explanations
Sorry but I would like to know the name of the components corresponding to EC1A and Rt1
How can I modify this charger to make it a power supply to provide a constant voltage to turn my cordless tools into corded?
Like everyone else, I find the Ryobi batteries don't last long enough.
+ipyroguy1 - You can't modify it to make it a power supply for that purpose. It isn't capable of enough current.
You are incorrect when you wrote "like everyone else..." blah blah blah. No, most people find that the Ryobi batteries last long enough, so long as you buy modern 4Ah version of them, and most people also find that it's pretty silly to try to power their cordless tools from an AC-DC power supply because one with sufficient current and decent quality will tend to be 350W at a minimum and cost well over $50 including support parts and a whole lot of your time, just to end up with a tethered brick that's worse to actually use than buying some corded power tools.
Ryobi is the last brand you should consider converting to corded, because even their old NiCd 18V tools will run off the modern 18V, 4Ah Li-Ion packs and the chargers including this one in the video are reasonably priced at around $25 to $30, even less for something used.
The black component in the input is an NTC, not PTC.
Small standard screwdriver will get those screws right out without damaging anything. Just put it in half of the screw, not across the whole thing cuz that tamper proof thing is in the way. I use one of those orange Stihl screwdrivers that you used to get with a chainsaw, trimmer, blower, etc.
Sure, if you have the EXACT right size flat blade screwdriver that can work, BUT you're going to be more efficient in the long run to just bust open your wallet and spend the $5 it costs for a set of security torx bits. Imagine that, using the Right Tool For The Job.
I have found that the only problem for the Ryobi P118 was a brown round thingy. Twenty bucks later I am out the door. And that white tag is a “Sensormatic” security and “Stock” reporting. It will tell the owner and buyer who bought it and where, or who stoked it and where.
The cashier would place it on a price of magnet and once paid for the tag or sensor tag would shut itself down as it came across the magnet.
Good luck and God bless you. And the problem was not the fuse, only that brown looking round thingy. Sorry don’t know it’s actual name.
Hi there, How to check the electronic parts of the Ryobi P117, and Discover the problem
Anyone know the size ot the torx key for the p118
Hello. Just caught your vid on the Ryobi P118 Charger guts.
I need to ask this question as I am in Brazil and to ask someone here to help me fix my charger it is better that I do it my self.
I know that my charger is a 110v charger and to plug in to 220v receptacle would be foolish.
I usually use a 120/220 transformer which allows me to charge my two Ryobi batts.
But this time I was not thinking and plugged her in to a 110v/220v adaptor but then plugged that adaptor into the 229v wall.
So my question is what is the possibility of only the fuse blowing which would be easier to fix the problem of me not being able to charge my batteries. Please help. I am in Brazil and the post office is terrible. So I cannot send it to you to fix.
I have a meter but do not know how to use it and I would not know if a capacitor or some other electronic wiz motor burned out. Helpppppppp. Edward
A number of things may have been killed, not just the fuse. These use a capacitive doubler rectifier on the input, and feeding it 220VAC means the switcher got fed over 600VDC. This means the switcher chip is probably fried as are the input electrolytic capacitors in the doubler. Depending on the nature of the transient coupled through the transformer, stuff may be blown on the secondary side as well.
What could be the possible problem if you accidentally plugged it into 220v?
I had mine by my nephew, it still on but keeps on flashing the red and green light and it’s not stopping or going into charge mode. Any insights on what could be the problem? TIA
If run on 240V without necessary mods, it would probably die.
@@danward6134 There may be a jumper on the PCB that bridges out part of the bridge rectifier and turns it into a potential doubler rectifier. Cutting this jumper makes it a 240V input charger.
@@randacnam7321 This power supply has no jumper like the ryobi p117. You need to replace the capacitor after the 200v 68uF diode bridge with a 400v 68uf capacitor. And replace the 3-pin mosfet (on the aluminum plate) with a Vds value >= 900V (the mosfet on the video circuit has a Vds of only about 600V). You have successfully converted 120v60hz to 220v/50/60hz.
can you tell me about the specification on the internal fuse of the p118 charger,because i had blown and lost my fuse .thank you
8A AGM/3AG or equivalent.
can you give me some retail link ,im sorry im not very expert in this term.,thank you again :)
randacnam7321
randacnam7321 and the rated current does matter to?
Zainul Zainuddin Zainuddin
Too low and you will get nuisance failures. Too high and the fuse will not do its job in case of a fault.
Any decent electronics store or electrical supply house should have the right fuses. Any 1/4in by 1-1/4in 8A slow blow fuse should work. Don't get fast blow ones as they may trip from the capacitor charging inrush.
Por favor traducir al español o al castellano,gracias !!!
How do we make this run off 12v DC?
You don't. You'd almost be better off engineering a new circuit based on a coost converter.
help us to convert this p118 charger from 110v to 220v
I feell the same way
Please i need it too
Me too
have the same problem - help to convert Ryobi P118 to 220 V
Me too require p118 to convert from 118 to 220 v use.My new P118 from US connected to converter 220v to110 v also new one and there was noise and charger not working . It is puzzle , New converter checked for converted voltage showing 43 v .Any comment
Does anyone have info about converting the 110V unit to 220V?
paulc317 see
u tube
How to convert Ryobi P117 charger from 120v to 230v
paulc317 This P118 model doesn't have a voltage divider, unlike those having like the P117 model that can be done by severing a track and replacing a varistor to a higher voltage, so converting to 220v can be more complicated. The best option is using a transformer having a capacity of at least 60W
Is there any problem using higher capacity say 2000w transformer/converter from 220v to 110v . New P 118 charger gone when connected to 2000w capacity conveter.
@@vijayatata6480 The converter is good only for RESISTIVE loads, not for ELECTRONIC DEVICES.