BMW E46/E39 No Crank No Start: The Ultimate DIY Guide
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2018
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Are you in the Los Angeles? Do you want Ismail to make you a key? Do you need him to fix your EWS or DME sync issues? Get in touch with him on his Facebook Marketplace:
/ bimmer-logic-320676031...
Or give him a call at (949) 491-3422.
My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
How could anyone actually down vote this video? Are you kidding me? Most informative tutorial out there. 50’s kid your the best and your friend in this video is awesome too!!
This was great. I’m not gonna lie, I skipped through to the parts that I needed but for anyone that knows nothing about cars, this is absolutely great! Thank you guys!!
Good information. But the title should be say something about a full education on the immobilizer. I came here just wanting to know if there's an easy location to get to the starter signal wire 😂
Hey 50sKid, I just wanted to thank you & your guest Ismail, you guys are awesome! I have a 325i that had a "No crank, No start" issue, so I called Ismail to see if he could help. Ismail was very friendly & helpful. He was generous with his time, answered all my question and best of he was able to solve my problem. Thanks again, you guy are GREAT!!! 👍
Great advice from you guys! The most important thing I've learned from these cars is that they hate low batteries!
50sKid... I've owned an E46 for 10+ years now and you have always come through. I really can't thank you enough for your constant solid advice, thorough step by step guides, and the time you have spent making these videos to help the E46 community.
I had a no crank no start. Unfortunately my car was at my GFs & most things I would have on hand weren't with me besides a small tool kit. Everyone in my BMW fb group kept telling me it was the starter and I was wasting energy and money replacing fuses and the ignition switch (as your video suggested). To be honest, I felt they were 90% right but I had to try before getting my car towed to the shop and digging into my pockets. I don't think I'd have the patience to replace the starter. Long story short, before trying to replace the ignition switch I replaced fuse f14, f67, f105 and the car fired right up. I'm almost positive it was f105. You saved me a ton of money, time, stress and even gave me a sense of accomplishment with of course lots of credit to you. Thank you again for all your help!
Yoooooo
I can't find the f105 fuse on my car 2004 X3 where is it?
@@odysseaspsounis2379 just fyi, I was totally wrong. It was my starter. F105 is behind the glove box. You need to actually remove the glove box to get to it. At least in my e46.
@@CapN-Savvy ok thank you
One of the most informative videos I have ever seen on e39 BMW Ignition System.
Hey guys, you saved my day! I’ve done a bunch of work on my 2003 530 I and the battery has been dead for sometime. I put a new battery in and it would crank but not start. I used BMW scanner went in to the DME and hit the DME-EWS adaptation button in programming and immediately after that task was completed I removed the key and waited 20 to 30 seconds like you had mentioned at 24:40 in this presentation. Success! Thank you very much!😎🇩🇪🚙
Jason & Ismail are Just on another Level when it comes to BMW. I own 2005 E46, and this channel is alway my 1st go to, for answers & tips. You guys need a TV Show!!!
Thank you guys, you just saved me a ton of money, I did your EWS trouble shooting on my E46 and it turned out to be the Ignition switch. Total cost $16 and some time. Much appreciated!!
Shout out to Ismail: I had a stubborn no crank no start situation, and was at my wits end (bad starter replaced, everything else tested). Reaching out to Ismail was my last straw. He thought the ignition switch could be at fault. The odds of a starter and ignition switch go bad on the same day simply... never crossed my mind. Bit the bullet and bought a new switch. Viola, the sweet sound of turning over after almost two months.
You guys are awesome! Thank you for everything!
Is there a number I can get to call thus man? I'm having issues with all this
Just thought I’d say that they did a great job of researching all of the possible outcomes and helped me narrow my search down to a bad starter I replaced the starter and was still haven’t issues and I actually found out my ground cable had become so corroded it wasn’t allowing any electricity through so even when I attached live wires I wasn’t getting any cylinoid or motor movement you can simply fix this by removing the two bolts and sanding down the ends of the wire and the mounts and it cranked right up
Long time subscriber here. Just want to say thank you for your E46 contents. I've fixed quite a few things and also did a manual conversion using your videos so please keep rolling with it. Great channel.
I just wanted to thank you for all your videos. You have helped me so much with my 02 325i. 215,000 miles and going strong. My car developed a misfire yesterday and your I watched your misfire video and know she's purring like a kitten. Did a power steering pump the other week thanks to you as well as new radiator and expansion tank. Your the man!!!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm pretty sure my e39 530 has rolling codes out of sync. Had to drop it at a garage after leaving me stranded. Car had been sitting and required a couple boosts, but worked fine for the rest of the day. After a 60 mile drive, I stopped for gas and no crank,no start. I even put a new battery in it (it was going to need it anyway) but by then it was too late. I don't recall seeing the "key in ignition" message, but the door chimed when open and key was in ignition. I wish I'd found this video before having the car towed, I could have done a lot of this diagnosis while I was waiting for the tow truck. At least I have some helpful info to give to the mechanic before they look at it (they are an independent BMW garage so they should have no issues anyway). Excellent info guys! I'm subscribed for more!
You guys Rock!! possibly the best DIY video I've yet seen on the E46 or on any car for that matter!
Life saver. Just used this process to save thousands in repairs. My wife had installed a fashion crystal ring on the ignition switch which was blocking the signal from the key to the housing. Thank you so much
i was having trouble starting up the car everything was lightning up & working but the car wouldn’t turn over no click nothing!!! i , like your wife , did the same thing installed fashion ring 🙄🙄 seen this comment ran out the door to my car to take mine off , she started right up 😂
Seriously?????!!! Damn, I switch batteries, spark and ignition coils ( it was time anyways) and now just bought starter to do the repair then found this video. I’m try the fuses and ground BUT REALIZE by this comment that my wife too INSTALLED bunch of glittering pink stuff and I think the fashion ring too!! Hahahahaha
Oh boy oh boy let me go check
Hey the tip about testing the key was extremely helpful! In the end surprisingly it appears to have been a loose starter relay in that box under the hood. A free fix, if it lasts...
Great Video can't thank you guys enough!! BMW family !
Excellent video! Great information! I really appreciate learning from your videos!!
You guys make a great team. Keep it up. Cheers.
BMW has a special place in heaven for both of you
Great video.thanks for you . Have learned many things especialy the easy check when we have beep if the key is in position1.
Thanks i just found out I have a ground issue, 5 years later and this video is still super helpful.
great stuff guys.God Bless both of you👍
I have seen 100s of videos related to this subject and these guys are heads and tails above all others. I have had a miserable time with bmw mini no crank no start replaced ign switch and starter and battery over the last three weeks in my spare time . nothing but silence when the key turns other than all the lights and stuff working just no start. i hope to apply this knowledge as i approach it once again. thank you so much for explaining so that a non mechanic like myself can understand this complicated starting system.
What was the issue?
Excellent presentation. Appropriate info. well explained, thanks!
Simply BRILLIANT!! Well presented, thank you :-)
Thanks Ismail. You are a Bimmer Genious..
Great video! liked and subscribed. Very well described and explained. I love the analogies with the starter on the table and troubleshooting techniques.
2 absolute legends, when he said 80% chance it’s the car battery he wasn’t lying, because I’m my case that’s exactly what it was, 1 year old Bosch battery was on give me 12.02 volts this was the issue.
Thank you guys now I can finally sleep at night.
We need more people like these guys these video help me a lot.
Graet work.
Omg!!!! So helpful!!!!! Good bless u guy’s for this video!!!
This video was really helpful. I had a no crank no start issue and it ended up being a body to engine ground. First time I'd ever had a problem with the ground.
Stumbled on this video today and definitely very informative and easy to understand. I have been having the same issue with my 2001 BMW e38 750iL. It would start and crank normally forever and than decide not to. I figure its a problem between the ignition lock and EWS, did not scan it with INPA yet. But, when Ismail mentioned the ding dong and beeping, I started thinking, if my car ever did that? And I cant remember. I went back to the car, its not cranking, but no ding dong either. I than flipped the headlight switch on in hopes to hear the beep but in stead car started and started every time after that. Now I am completely stumped, but the car started and I was able to move it from parking lot where it was not suppose to be at. Definitely need to scan it with INPA. But thank you for pointing me in the right direction and having such an informative video.
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Ok, so I
bought a project bmw 2001 740il 2 years ago... crank but no start. It's been sitting 2 years and I've done lots of trial and error since. Today I just ordered a key, antenna ring, ignition module, ews and dme tested in working condition. They also included the trunk key lock. I have other project cars, roadmasters which I love the simplicity of the 92, 93 models. So the bmw has been in back of my apartment pissing off my landlord for 2 years now. Next week I'll do the install of new parts, and hope for the best. I'll also have to change out the gasoline. I have a new battery I bought 2 years ago, it still charges up past 12.6 volts so should be good as long as it's in like the 12.2 v range and above I take it. Which doesn't give you too many starts before declining beneath that range. I'll update w a video link maybe.... to this comment if I get it to run. So here's the back story...
I get the car home. The frustrated seller sold it to me cheap and just bought himself another bmw. Newer. He says limited info on the problems because I'm not getting an easy fix after he put a lot of work and money into it.
He said, might be a vacuum problem, removed after market car stereo because it was causing a voltage drain and the alarm also goes off randomly.
- what I did-
New battery, Crank sensor, cam shaft sensors, voltage checks and fuse checks from battery all the way forward, bought new fuel pump fuse and alarm fuse, checked every fuse including under passenger seat, was signs of water damage linr from carpet stain but all the bases looked shiny new, he must of replaced those= squeaky clean, bench tested the fuel pump and also the extra fuel pump in trunk that came as an extra part w car- he must have tried replacing it but wasn't necessary, both worked fine, yes had fuel pressure squirting out fuel at Schrader valve after a few cranks, fine there, but it wasn't coming out the injectors and also no spark from ignition coils during grounding test while cranking. That told me right there aha! Must be tampering protection mode basically wasn't allowing fuel or spark- so I bought an old school gateway labtop that's specifically meant to work Excellent for the "old school inpa software" which I bought as well and the connector module linking to car's read out port. Installed software etc, which required a video for further instructions because everything was in German. Ok so system up and running and I do the attempt at a rolling codes resynch between ews and dme. It states "No Communication to Dme" ... so I can't even attempt to synch it now. Stale mate. Tried so many times.
That was my dead end.
Too much professionalism in one video!
You are great as always!
40K+ subscribers, yeahh baby!
It will be more than 100k soon, and you totally deserve it!
You guys are amazing thank you so much for helping me
Your channel has helped me so much, man. Thank you!
You guys are super helpful and honest
Before you do anything change the FUSES for the Immobiliser (14, 67) and Instrument cluster (10, 34, 43). Found in the glove box compartment. Even if the fuses look OK. My E46 would start intermittently but had a no crank no start. I was convinced it was the EWS, did a bimmer 1.4 scan and kept coming up with Signal EWS Timeout Elapsed. The circuit board of the EWS was fine, no burns or corrosion. I could bypass the EWS and crank the engine. Bought a new key. Same problem. As a last ditch attempt I thought to replace the five 5A fuses listed above. Car started straight away. No problems or issues at all starting after that. Funny thing is my fuses looked fine, but a long standing fuse LOOSES its effectivity over time. Can’t believe it cost lest than 25p to fix. I just hope this helps someone as it drove me nuts trying to locate the problem. The car was heading to the dealership otherwise.
Excellent video as always! I wish more "car guys" on youtube could produce content this good. I followed your earlier intake manifold / starter removal diy to replace my starter not once, but twice in the course of a year (I cheaped out and bought a chinese reman unit the first time around ....). I guess I was "lucky" in the sense that it was my starter that was actually bad, I didnt troubleshoot beyond battery, ignition switch and fuses. Heads up to all the E46 owners out there - do yourself a huge favor and watch this video more than once before you jump into replacing things, it's only a matter of time before your car gets a "no start".
Complicated but very informative - I fixed a no start issue that my BMW dealer was not help in a no under the hood check by replacing the a S switch in the fuse box of my SUV - And everything worked just fine. Now the car would not work after stopping to fill up with gas. Had it towed by and will go through your check list to see if I can find the problem before I tow it to BMW. I am here in China so communication with the BMW staff is not easy.
This video saved me from a lot of tearing things apart for no reason to deal with a no crank no start on my Copart 540iT. The key in ignition test meant that a $70 key was all it took to get my $700 BMW to crank right up. Much respect and many many thanks.
where did you get the key from?
This is a hugeeeee help. You guys are awesome
You guys are legit , Super thorough And understandable
It helped me a lot, thank you.
You boys are Human GOLD.
Great video! I've been working on my e46 with a no start no crank issue for months now. Learning new things with each video!
Did u get it fix
Did you get it fix mines is doing the same thing
Awsome guys love the video ! Greeting from California
One of the best videos I have seen. Working on my no crank/no start issue on my 2002 540i. Lucky to have easy access to the starter connections. So far, 12.6v on the main cable, 7.6v on one connector and 0.7 on the other. So I am working through all that. This helps a lot. Off to check fuses.
I have exactly the same situation. Only happens when the engine is hot tough
@@irmasalla My issue was the starter. Replaced it and everything works well.
@@daveputerbaugh8606 Thanks a lot, I have exactly the same values at the starter, so your solution give me a lot of input to solve the issue.
@@irmasalla My car was a 540i. If you have the V8, then when you replace the starter, pull out the oxygen sensor for much better access to the top starter bolt. Took me a long time to get the starter out, trying to work around the O2 sensor. I could pull a starter and replace it in about an hour now. Easy job.
@@daveputerbaugh8606 I have the e34 540. But I assumed that is very similar. Sure I will take your advice
Good video guys it has been very helpful trying to troubleshoot the 2005 x3 E83 I am having trouble with. had a 27a4 code replaced fuse f14 code went away but still no crank. It`s time for me to call it a day for now, but i will check the other fuses mentioned tomorrow, as well as the signal to starter. I was unable to locate a wiring diagram, so this info was very helpful Subbed and bell turned on.
Great video guys, thank you.
Very informative. Thank you.
Great Vid! Thanks you both
such a great video thanks for the help
You guys are the best thank you from the bottom of my Heart Lol.
Great video!
Just to add why is IC important - it is a "bridge" between K-BUS (on which EWS is) and CAN-BUS (on which DME is) so obviously they need IC to communicate.
Awesome video guys..complements from the east coast !! Massachusetts !!
Hi and thanks for the video.
I had the no cranking click symptoms on my e46 n42 and after changing starter i found out that my problem was liquid on my DME connectors. After a good clean the car started again.
Brilliant info here thank you
Impressive and exellent as always!! Thank your very much for your informative videos. Hopefully, your videos vill keep the e46 model on the road and youngsters away from computer games. Will the next prodjectcar be a E90 with the N54 engine?
I LOVE YOU GUYS YOUR THE BEST
That's a great video and it helped me (along with other's, for manifold and starter removal) very recently. One comment though: the video strongly suggest that you need to have both control wires energized to turn the starter motor. That's not true - the bigger bolt - yes, it's needed to run the starter and engage the motor. But the smaller (that you mentioned on the video comes from the DME) it's actually not an input to the starter, but a sensor wire if the solenoid has engaged. This and the lower power screw of the solenoid are connected together, it's easily spotted. If you put 12V directly on it (which you should not do) the motor will run, but the sprocket will not engage.
Also, please watch out for starter/solenoid failing intermittently. I took mine out only to see that it functions fine at the bench. But it was also getting all the right signals. Only after a couple of trials I've seen that the solenoid is getting stuck from time to time. I would probably be able to fix it, but the new one is cheap enough not to bother.
How do you re-sync EWS-DME with inpa. Thanks alot for all your good input.
Great Help, Thank You
one of the best videos,
This is a really great video, exactly what I need! I have this 2008 x3 3.0 it has this exact problem, no click no start everything else are find .. No beeping when key insert driver side door open!I have ruled out the starter motor, the key ring and the keys . Just got a new key from bmw dealer which cost me $206..now I need to do a diagnostic on the EWS , how exactly do we do that ? Thanks a lot man!
This video is amazing
Thank you guys !
WOW!!! I read from someone else that a STUPID FASHION RING around the ignition key was the culprit. I be DAMN! My wife installed one last week so I removed it. IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!
After buying battery, ignition coils and spark plugs, now I have a strong running car again. To think my wife was ready to head to dealer for a new car lol. Going few more years left :)
If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal switch will also cause a no crank, no start. I just narrowed mine down to that switch and replaced it and now it starts right up.
I would be such a prick if I did not add this comment: X5 2004 out of no where refused to start. I spent 6am to 8pm non stop tracing circuits, cleaning connections, running data scans, WATCHING every youtube guru in the entire internet. Even the BMW nerd forums are CLUELESS. When I found this video and the sister video you guys did to it, problem was resolved. Bless you guys!
Well???? What was the problem and solution?
Great info in the video.. Do you have a similar video covering a Crank, no start for a e36/7 EWS II? not getting fuel or spark.
Very nice explain
thank you guys so much ive been a sub for years and you helped me so much you guys are crazy I wish I watch this one before I went and did my starter tho
This video is awesome! Specifically intrigued about the park from 13:40 to 14:40
I’ve been fighting with the no crank scenario on an R 53 Mini Cooper which uses the same immobilizer unit found in most E30 nines and e46’s...
Is there any way to scan the car to read for faults before I pay Mini $230 to do it?
I spent hours with a multimeter and pretty much ruled out everything regarding the charging system in the starter as when manually supplying power, it cranks no problem...
Hello! I'm from Zambia, Ive owned 3 e46s in the last 10 years and have come to your channel for help lots of times. I had the no start no crank problem on Sunday morning and I was out of my home town with no tools. After trying various things I opted to disconnect the positive terminal for 30 minutes. When I connected it back the car started right up. Thought I should share this with the community as it was something I had not come accros in my search for a solution.
Excellent video guys, keep up the great work and thank you. Very informative.
Hi thanks for the video. I have an X3 x83 n52. I see several fuses at 5v. F5 to f11. No horn. No radio or cruise control at the steering wheel. I just put an new clock ring and still have the problem. The car sometimes doesn't start rigth away. Is the 5v on those fuses ok? What do you think?
More videos like this please - e46!
You have great videos thanks!
I have e90 and have voltage supply issue when I push start button voltage drops 6-7 is it possible to be dme in that case or should be cable?
True tech work 💪
Great video guys!!
Im here in trouble with my e36 318is 1993.
I need to find whats my problem inside all of possibilities
Thanks guys
Thank you.
Great video very informative. I am having a no crank/no start issue on my 2001 330ci 5 speed. However, when I connect the negative battery I hear a vacuum sound coming from the intake manifold area. Could it be possible that issues may be related?
what would you suggest if the immobilizer ring stays red / hot????
Good video. The beep test works with us cars only, euro cars dont beep when the key is in the ignition.
Thanks mate!!! EU here
@@marcoaurelio6941 I have North American can and this test doesn't work either.
Mine was running and I turned it off when inside and came out and there's nothing lights etc work np but nothing else
My car beeps? And i have a eu car
When the cluster says "code" it is asking for a 4 digit code to be input on the MID radio/navigation screen. E38/39/53s had a feature where you could set a 4 digit starting code to input each start. Cluster probably had a freak out and thought a code was set.
Great video, a co-worker of mine is having issues with no start and She says that it has something clicking when starting but not turning over the engine (I think its the starter solenoid clicking, somethings clicking) does that mean it has both EWS and DME signals are going to the starter. or could this still be one of those issues. Or if its in clicking and no crank mean that the voltage is low to the starter or bad starter. Thanks for the video.
Awesome video and tutorial! Highly recommend. Kudos to 50sKid and Ismail!
Quick q for @50sKid: my MSS54 DME X60003 connector did not have a wire in pin 12 location and could not back-probe DME as you suggested… any thoughts or suggestions?
hello, great video. My question: is the 12v signal from the DME coming from the starter to the DME or from the DME to the starter.If it comes from the starter to the DME it would explain some issues I have
That is exactly thr question I have. I thought that terminal 30h was an output signal to the dme then the coils. I tested my terminals and I have 0.65 volts when tried to start the car. But trying with my spare starter outside the car, the starter will engage if you put 12v on terminal 50. No need the signal at all from the 30h. So I'm a little confused.
I'm in serious need of some help. I've spent the last 3 days changing out the head gasket on a friend's 03 325i and when I finally got it all back together I went to crank it and the battery was almost dead. So I hooked my truck up to with jumper cables and tried starting it again but got nothing at all this time. That's when I figured out that the fuel line didn't snap in place completely to the fuel rail and I guess briefly sprayed gas enough to trigger some sort of complete shut down. Do you have any idea what to do?
I definitely need help i just bought a 1996 315Ti and has no crank no start!!! im check fuses you disgused first then ill try back probe Connector. What about that signal ring though?
Muchas gracias por el video👌🏾 tengo un bmw z4 e85 2003. El problema que tengo es que no quiere encender, conecté el pin1 con el pin2 de la EWS3 y da marcha pero no prende, y si desconecto el pin1-pin2 ya no da arranque. El escáner me da los codigos 281C, 281D y 27a4. Podrían ayudarme?
Hello Guys you are quite something, there aren't enough people like you around youtube or the general web. My Daughter has A uk 530d Touring sport auto and it lost the ability to start in the middle of this week just gone. we have checked the two solenoid terminals as my daughter was turning the key to the starter position ,i was checking for voltage on either post. No voltage at all on the posts.
we have checked the fuses you mentioned in the glove box and in the engine bay near the ECU.
They where all good .One thing i think worthy of note is the fact that when you shift the lever it is hard to select "N" Neutral, you can move the lever back and forward trying to land on it ,but it just flashes as the lever sort of springs past it, eventually we are able to land on Neutral but it ain't normal. we haven't got to the fuses in the floor yet, your help would be most appreciated.
You wanna impress me, tell me how to disable the EWS so I can run over it with the car =p
Great video, not sure if you mention it. Some factory accessories such as the stocked radio is required for reprogramming. Not sure if it was INPA or GTS BMW. I know one of the softwares I have checks all factory modules (about 25 of them) before it will let you reprogram (I think it was the instrument cluster). For those who replace accessories with after market items, keep OEM stuff just in case.
Where can i find the one where u programmed the key?
Hello I love ur videos..kid jumped battery in trunk..originally had NO crank No start..so installed new battery and starter and still no crank no start..got the footwell module out as all the lights stayed on with car off..shorted out..someone said my CAS module might be bad and i'd have to send key ECU, and CAS module..others say just need aligment between CAS and DME..any advice appreciated..got some codes CAS AOBE terminal 15 output one, CAS AOCO term 15 output 3, and another cas code(cant recall but said term 15 output 2..PLEASE advise..NO key lights up on dash when car on and no PARK light on gear selector or dash when key in slot..2008 bmw 328i sedan..any advice? thanks I only have on starter trigger wire E90 series N52.
Is the DME signal a ground or B+. I have B+ from the ews but the small wire im not sure what to look fore
I have a similar issue as the one explained here. My Key on my 2004 BMW e60 doesn't turn...and my best guess is that the CAS /EWS is in a "preventive mode for stopping the vehicle from being stolen" or broken into, or any similar distrubance issues! The vehicle cannot be moved or started!...The "ALARM IS SET" and consequently applies a preventative output signal which physically prevents the KEY from being turned. In additon the DME (ECU) module adds or sends another output to the GEARSHIFT lever that prevents me (the owner/driver) from shifting the lever at all...its totally blocked. So, assuming I'm on a valid trail or path of inquiry the question becomes 'how to get out of the "ALARM" set position? I've collected and studied the wiring diagrams from the "newTis info" website. I'm now on the verge of pulling the power fuses "F7 and F15 which power theCAS/EWS module. Does anybody have a BMW that is in what I might call "LOCK DOWN mode? I have electrical power to many of the other vehicle systems such as lights and DOOR LOCKING as an example, but no power windows, no radio. I've disconnected the battery several times. And actually turned of the Flashing RED light on the rear view mirror and the "don't shake the car audio beeping alarm most people are familiar with. So the LOCKed IGNITION KEY AND GEAR SHIFT lever are meant to prevent the vehicle from being moved! Maybe TOW truck drivers have a work-around ***************************************************** UPDATE 5/25/2019 I've solved a lot of the above issues! The fix: Jackup the back wheels (both at same time) and then spin them around ...I used a forward and backward rotation ...and maybe it was overkill ...Anyway I now have electrical power to the long of items i had earlier!
...The steering wheel turns, the gear shift lever can be moved out of PARK, the power_windows work, the RADIO works, THE AC turns on by itself, etc. Car still doesn't Crank /and no start is still an issue. The IGNITION KEY does TURN and I can plug-in SCANNER!!! > Which I did (INPA) and the only code was 2737 ... Described as CDKWFS- EWS 3.3. which doesn't stick (NO SES/MIL Lights ...Memory was cleared... NOT a problem last comment here is Engine still doesn't crank.
Thanks any way it was the immobilizer relay.