I bought the Echo 620P w/ 24" bar to fell two big dead trees near my house. The biggest one was pretty much the same size at the base as the one in this video. I paid $535 for mine out the door. I looked long and hard at the 590 TimberWolf, but the extra features and build of the 620P won me over even though it was more expensive. I don't think a better 60cc chainsaw can be bought for the price. And even if the Stihl and Husqvarna 60cc chainsaws were in the same price range I don't believe they are any better quality than this chainsaw. This chainsaw is perfect for medium to big timber and a light amount of limbing. It's on the heavy side for any amount of serious limbing. I use a Husqvarna 440e for limbing right now, but want an Echo CS-501P. I think the LPX chain on the 620 is rather impressive for a "safety chain". It's a full chisel chain though and if kept sharp, cuts through wood very fast. I haven't tuned mine yet. I've been running as came straight out of the box because it's been impressive as is so far.
As an engineer, familiar with race prep some time back, and many years with small 2-strokes, I can tell you plainly that adjusting carb (H) mixture @WOT unloaded with a tach is a kludge. Two much better ways: 1) adjust for max rpm UNDER LOAD with inductive tach (kinda messy for dealer to do, so they won't)- that's typical mfg. instruction in days past; 2) adjust for 2-stroking (clean exh. note) @WOT under load, just getting into 4-stroking as you lift, still @WOT. Be prepared for minor adjustments going into winter/summer. Much mo-betta: Auto-Tune. It'll do exactly same as 1) above.
Great video, I need to watch your first one. I run this saw tuned with muffler mod with a 32” .063 and it hangs with the 462s that my guys run. I’ve surprised and pissed off lots of Stihl guys with it.
Are you running a full comp chain on the 32" bar? I got my bar today but haven't ordered any chains yet and wasn't sure if I should go with full comp or full skip.
I ordered this saw with the 24" bar based largely on your other video glad your happy with it .I paid 588 was looking at the 20" version but it was a hundred dollars more.I am going to pick up a tachometer to. I wish echo listed there tuning specific for these saw I head they come lean from the factory .
I'm glad that video was helpful for you. Mine was running at around 10,000 rpm from the factory at full throttle. I had to remove the limiter caps to properly tune it. Just something to keep in mind.
@@obeconoberougle9497, the balance with a 24" bar is great. I also have a 32" bar for it that I haven't tested out in wood yet but it definitely makes it off balance towards the bar nose.
I dunno. I have a Stihl 051 and I will put it up against anything for cutting. I do admit that it will tear your fingers off if you don't start it with a direct strong pull. Its an old saw that my Dad gave me and it was given to him for helping someone out. But it will fill up a pickup with racks in no time with some good firewood.
At home depot I can pick up a echo 590 with 20 or 24in bar for $420 without tax, can't find a 620p near me and at Baileysonline it's $635 to my door. Around $200 more for the 620p, is it really worth it? I don't really cut firewood but I will be using it on my homemade chainsaw mill to mill up to 20in diameter pine, maybe oak. Considering how expensive lumber is right now would it be worth the investment or would the echo 590 be good enough?
The 590 typically runs about $200 less than the 620. I feel it's worth it. You get a lot for the money. The piston and cylinder are a higher quality steel. It has a better clutch and a sprocket, a metal handle, magnesium clutch cover and about 20% more power. Milling is very taxing in a chainsaw so I'd say for you it would definitely be worth the extra money to get the 620.
@@theinternets7516 Thanks for the quick reply. I have pretty much decided that if my 40cc poulan wild thing can't do what I want then I'll bite the bullet and get the 620p. BTW those who are wondering the only difference between the 620p and 620pw is the weird handle that sticks out to the side, which for me and my use is just not at all appealing. I wanted to ask if you could use a low profile bar on the 620p? My poulan uses 3/8 050 62 drive link Low profile bar and chain and I would love to be able to use it on the 620p. If not it's not too big of a deal but I've got some good cheap chains from UpStart Components on Amazon and they stay sharp really long for (I bought a 5 pack with a 18in LP bar for $35 a few years ago) $7 chain, longer than my $25 Oregon ones. I figured I'd sharpen one to 10 degrees for a ripping chain instead of paying the extra price for a real ripping chain. I plan on getting the 24in 620p so I can cut the biggest trees on my property but will mostly be using the 18in bar for most things. Thanks in advance!
@@DigIntoGaming, you can get the 620 with a 28" bar if you want the biggest bar they offer. I even have a 30" bar for mine but I wouldn't recommend it for regular use. Mine is generally running the 24" bar and I think the balance is perfect. There are definitely some ripping bars and chains you can buy for it but as for using what you already have, I really don't know. Honestly, if you're going to do much milling at all your better off to just buy the milling specific stuff rather than try to make other stuff work. Don't get me wrong, you can get by with the other stuff but all that milling specific hardware exists because it works better, and when it works better that equals less work for your saw and a longer more reliable service life for your saw.
If you're in the market for a 60cc saw I don't think you can go wrong with it. It's been great. As long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything. I got it on a One-Day Sale 20% off which is how I got it out the door for $518 but after using it for two years I would definitely be willing to pay full price for it. If you don't have to have it right now then go to www.echo-usa.com/Promotions/One-Day-Sale and find a dealer near you who's going to have a One-Day sale coming up and buy it then.
It was a very basic hour meter/ tachometer made by Searon for around $20. The one I bought isn't available right now but if you Google Searon tachometer there's one that shows up for sale on Amazon and it's got 4.5/5 stars and it's in the $20 range as well. Here is the link, www.amazon.com/Searon-Digital-Tachometer-Counter-Snowmobile/dp/B01H5ECBZ0
@@theinternets7516 I bought this exact same tach after seeing Steve from SteveSmallEngineSaloon recommend it. It's not a true wireless tach like I'd prefer, but this one may be more accurate since the red wire gets wrapped around the spark plug wire to get it's readings.
How do you do that? I'm fairly decent at operating a saw but I have a lot to learn when it comes to getting the most out of it from a tuning standpoint. I know that basics but I've never heard of tuning a saw under load.
@@theinternets7516 the way i do it is 1st set low speed at idle by slowly adjusting till highest rpm then fatten it up till r ' s just begin to drop . Then put it in the wood till good n warm the i stop cutting and w my 620 backed out hi screw 1/4 turn at a time till just begin to 4 stroke in the wood . I think i did this 3 or 4 times before finding the sweet spot . I want a tach to check it in the wood to be completly satisfied tho
If I had one available I would but I don't think it would be a fair comparison. The MS262 is a 50cc saw with 4HP whereas the 620 is a 60cc saw with 4.5HP. I think it would be a much better comparison to put it up against a MS362 (59cc 4.7HP). Thanks for watching and commenting!
I bought the Echo 620P w/ 24" bar to fell two big dead trees near my house. The biggest one was pretty much the same size at the base as the one in this video. I paid $535 for mine out the door. I looked long and hard at the 590 TimberWolf, but the extra features and build of the 620P won me over even though it was more expensive. I don't think a better 60cc chainsaw can be bought for the price. And even if the Stihl and Husqvarna 60cc chainsaws were in the same price range I don't believe they are any better quality than this chainsaw. This chainsaw is perfect for medium to big timber and a light amount of limbing. It's on the heavy side for any amount of serious limbing. I use a Husqvarna 440e for limbing right now, but want an Echo CS-501P. I think the LPX chain on the 620 is rather impressive for a "safety chain". It's a full chisel chain though and if kept sharp, cuts through wood very fast. I haven't tuned mine yet. I've been running as came straight out of the box because it's been impressive as is so far.
As an engineer, familiar with race prep some time back, and many years with small 2-strokes, I can tell you plainly that adjusting carb (H) mixture @WOT unloaded with a tach is a kludge. Two much better ways: 1) adjust for max rpm UNDER LOAD with inductive tach (kinda messy for dealer to do, so they won't)- that's typical mfg. instruction in days past; 2) adjust for 2-stroking (clean exh. note) @WOT under load, just getting into 4-stroking as you lift, still @WOT. Be prepared for minor adjustments going into winter/summer. Much mo-betta: Auto-Tune. It'll do exactly same as 1) above.
in the cut and out of cut is a better way to tune than max rpm.
Great video, I need to watch your first one. I run this saw tuned with muffler mod with a 32” .063 and it hangs with the 462s that my guys run. I’ve surprised and pissed off lots of Stihl guys with it.
Thank you! I'm glad to hear that it runs well with a 32" bar. I actually just ordered one a week ago and I'm looking forward to testing out.
Are you running a full comp chain on the 32" bar? I got my bar today but haven't ordered any chains yet and wasn't sure if I should go with full comp or full skip.
Stihl makes some great chainsaws, but I think they are over-rated and over priced. The buyer is paying extra for the name.
Smart man, even if u fell it correctly a tree can still fall in any direction. Especially a dead or rotten one.
Hey you shoul do a 5 year review on your echo 620
I may do that. The short version is that it's still a great saw. Still zero problems. I love it.
Good morning from Piqua Ohio.
Same to you. I guess it's good afternoon at this point.
2:20 sweet house
I ordered this saw with the 24" bar based largely on your other video glad your happy with it .I paid 588 was looking at the 20" version but it was a hundred dollars more.I am going to pick up a tachometer to. I wish echo listed there tuning specific for these saw I head they come lean from the factory .
I'm glad that video was helpful for you. Mine was running at around 10,000 rpm from the factory at full throttle. I had to remove the limiter caps to properly tune it. Just something to keep in mind.
Operator's Manual (page 34) lists the following:
Engine speed
Idle: 2400-3200rpm
Clutch engagement: 3750-4250rpm
Wide open throttle: 12600-13200rpm
I think this saw is balanced best with at least a 24" bar.
@@obeconoberougle9497, the balance with a 24" bar is great. I also have a 32" bar for it that I haven't tested out in wood yet but it definitely makes it off balance towards the bar nose.
nope,nope,nope most saws come from factory on the RICH side,they dont want you burning it up.
I dunno. I have a Stihl 051 and I will put it up against anything for cutting. I do admit that it will tear your fingers off if you don't start it with a direct strong pull. Its an old saw that my Dad gave me and it was given to him for helping someone out. But it will fill up a pickup with racks in no time with some good firewood.
It would be fun to do a side by side comparison of them.
@@theinternets7516 The Stihl 051 is 89 cc's. My 81 year old dad has one with a 24" bar and .404 chain.
O51 is 89 cc's.
At home depot I can pick up a echo 590 with 20 or 24in bar for $420 without tax, can't find a 620p near me and at Baileysonline it's $635 to my door. Around $200 more for the 620p, is it really worth it? I don't really cut firewood but I will be using it on my homemade chainsaw mill to mill up to 20in diameter pine, maybe oak. Considering how expensive lumber is right now would it be worth the investment or would the echo 590 be good enough?
The 590 typically runs about $200 less than the 620. I feel it's worth it. You get a lot for the money. The piston and cylinder are a higher quality steel. It has a better clutch and a sprocket, a metal handle, magnesium clutch cover and about 20% more power. Milling is very taxing in a chainsaw so I'd say for you it would definitely be worth the extra money to get the 620.
@@theinternets7516 Thanks for the quick reply. I have pretty much decided that if my 40cc poulan wild thing can't do what I want then I'll bite the bullet and get the 620p. BTW those who are wondering the only difference between the 620p and 620pw is the weird handle that sticks out to the side, which for me and my use is just not at all appealing. I wanted to ask if you could use a low profile bar on the 620p? My poulan uses 3/8 050 62 drive link Low profile bar and chain and I would love to be able to use it on the 620p. If not it's not too big of a deal but I've got some good cheap chains from UpStart Components on Amazon and they stay sharp really long for (I bought a 5 pack with a 18in LP bar for $35 a few years ago) $7 chain, longer than my $25 Oregon ones. I figured I'd sharpen one to 10 degrees for a ripping chain instead of paying the extra price for a real ripping chain. I plan on getting the 24in 620p so I can cut the biggest trees on my property but will mostly be using the 18in bar for most things. Thanks in advance!
@@DigIntoGaming, you can get the 620 with a 28" bar if you want the biggest bar they offer. I even have a 30" bar for mine but I wouldn't recommend it for regular use. Mine is generally running the 24" bar and I think the balance is perfect. There are definitely some ripping bars and chains you can buy for it but as for using what you already have, I really don't know. Honestly, if you're going to do much milling at all your better off to just buy the milling specific stuff rather than try to make other stuff work. Don't get me wrong, you can get by with the other stuff but all that milling specific hardware exists because it works better, and when it works better that equals less work for your saw and a longer more reliable service life for your saw.
@@theinternets7516 The piston and cylinder aren’t a better quality steel…they aren’t steel at all.
Hey great video but should I buy it I am used to big husqvarna saws but i want a echo just a bit hesitant to buy it. Thanks bud
If you're in the market for a 60cc saw I don't think you can go wrong with it. It's been great. As long as the chain is sharp it rips through everything. I got it on a One-Day Sale 20% off which is how I got it out the door for $518 but after using it for two years I would definitely be willing to pay full price for it. If you don't have to have it right now then go to www.echo-usa.com/Promotions/One-Day-Sale and find a dealer near you who's going to have a One-Day sale coming up and buy it then.
@@theinternets7516 thank you sir I will god bless you take care
@@lukeruggiero1894 did you get it and your impression ?
What tachometer did you pickup the price very from 20 bucks to over 150 dollars.
It was a very basic hour meter/ tachometer made by Searon for around $20. The one I bought isn't available right now but if you Google Searon tachometer there's one that shows up for sale on Amazon and it's got 4.5/5 stars and it's in the $20 range as well. Here is the link, www.amazon.com/Searon-Digital-Tachometer-Counter-Snowmobile/dp/B01H5ECBZ0
@@theinternets7516 I bought this exact same tach after seeing Steve from SteveSmallEngineSaloon recommend it. It's not a true wireless tach like I'd prefer, but this one may be more accurate since the red wire gets wrapped around the spark plug wire to get it's readings.
I would say it's a little lean. Tune it in the cut. They are great saws
How do you do that? I'm fairly decent at operating a saw but I have a lot to learn when it comes to getting the most out of it from a tuning standpoint. I know that basics but I've never heard of tuning a saw under load.
@@theinternets7516 the way i do it is 1st set low speed at idle by slowly adjusting till highest rpm then fatten it up till r ' s just begin to drop . Then put it in the wood till good n warm the i stop cutting and w my 620 backed out hi screw 1/4 turn at a time till just begin to 4 stroke in the wood . I think i did this 3 or 4 times before finding the sweet spot . I want a tach to check it in the wood to be completly satisfied tho
@@sundial6919, thanks. I'll give that a try.
Gonna blow it up unless u richen the high side
Still running great. I've had it for 6 years now. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Hey another CZcams channel is using this video on his channel checkout Chester Delgado.
Thanks man! This has happened before.
Compare this to ms 262
If I had one available I would but I don't think it would be a fair comparison. The MS262 is a 50cc saw with 4HP whereas the 620 is a 60cc saw with 4.5HP. I think it would be a much better comparison to put it up against a MS362 (59cc 4.7HP). Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@theinternets7516 Echo actually has a comparison sheet. The Stihl MS362 is the saw.
The Echo 490 and 501P would be the right saws to compare to your MS262.
This saw is a little more powerful than a 361. Echo 501p is a saw to compare to the 261
@@obeconoberougle9497 362 is a turd