Nice work Cole! (Looking back over the last sixty years, I wonder if any engine has received more love or respect than the Cooper S units.) There will be some viewers here now that will still be alive when this engine design reaches one hundred years, and I’m sure it will still be happily racing around the world’s race tracks! 🙏😊
I think the block casting number reads 12 H4D on the front of the block at about 9:10, this reads 12 August 1964 shift D. So this looks like the engine from a 1964 car
i see no problem running on the stand. when I built my cooper s race motors, we usually ran them in in the car, for the first 25 minutes varying the rpm to about 3000 till things seated.
The engine itself isn’t positive earth. It’s really your wiring harness and instruments. So running it here I just used my own starter and ran it negative earth. The distributor can be wired either way without damaging it.
@@Radfordperson This does have removable tappet covers. However Hardy Spicers were a factory option during this model year. So not all Cooper S engines had them. This one did not have that factory option chosen when it was purchased. 🙂
That engine took far to long to get oil pressure, I've built hundreds of mini engines and they all have hit 75 psi+ instantly when turning over. You haven't primed the system properly or there is something wrong. Just saying, not being big-headed but just having a say.
The engine was primed but sat for about 3 weeks before running up to pressure. It also has an oil cooler in a unusual orientation which promotes air in the system. Took a perfectly normal amount of time given the variables.
@@classicminidiy my 1380 sat over a year, the oil pressure was up at nearly 80 within a split second. Use proper engine build lube and prime properly and it will be good like my engines. Also, mine start instantly, we call it beating the key. It's like the old by planes, start with half turn of the prop like a starting handle
Nice work Cole! (Looking back over the last sixty years, I wonder if any engine has received more love or respect than the Cooper S units.) There will be some viewers here now that will still be alive when this engine design reaches one hundred years, and I’m sure it will still be happily racing around the world’s race tracks! 🙏😊
If you care, the upper rad hose on a Cooper S can be replaced with a Chrysler 318 water pump bypass hose, available at your local parts house.
As a Brit who owns a fully restored customized 1293cc mini I found this very interesting.
They are incredible fun to drive!
Very nice to have! Kind regards to you sir.🙏
Nice job, that'll look and run so nice back in it's original home
I think the block casting number reads 12 H4D on the front of the block at about 9:10, this reads 12 August 1964 shift D. So this looks like the engine from a 1964 car
i see no problem running on the stand. when I built my cooper s race motors, we usually ran them in in the car, for the first 25 minutes varying the rpm to about 3000 till things seated.
Remind me what rocker assembly you have, please?
What did you do to the starter to make it work as it’s a positive earth ??
The engine itself isn’t positive earth. It’s really your wiring harness and instruments. So running it here I just used my own starter and ran it negative earth. The distributor can be wired either way without damaging it.
Is this a cooper s as I don't see the 4 conrod bulges on the case.
There were different cooper S blocks. This is a thin flange cooper s engine. 😎
Is this an S engine, or a 1300?
This is a true S engine.
@@classicminidiy Apologies, not followed the build, but why no removable tappet chest covers and no Hardy Spicers?
@@Radfordperson This does have removable tappet covers. However Hardy Spicers were a factory option during this model year. So not all Cooper S engines had them. This one did not have that factory option chosen when it was purchased. 🙂
@@classicminidiy Thanks, I did not know this, and I thought that I knew a bit about Minis. I used to work for Janspeed in the late 60's and early 70's
That engine took far to long to get oil pressure, I've built hundreds of mini engines and they all have hit 75 psi+ instantly when turning over. You haven't primed the system properly or there is something wrong. Just saying, not being big-headed but just having a say.
The engine was primed but sat for about 3 weeks before running up to pressure. It also has an oil cooler in a unusual orientation which promotes air in the system. Took a perfectly normal amount of time given the variables.
@@classicminidiy my 1380 sat over a year, the oil pressure was up at nearly 80 within a split second. Use proper engine build lube and prime properly and it will be good like my engines. Also, mine start instantly, we call it beating the key. It's like the old by planes, start with half turn of the prop like a starting handle