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HOW TO REFINISH YOUR PIANO! (Refinishing an upright Piano)
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2021
- In this video, we demonstrate how we go about refinishing an upright piano. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask! Please help us out by liking and sharing our video and subscribing to our channel if you're interested in future furniture videos that we put out weekly. thanks!
Soda blaster tool:
amzn.to/40Tn6fz
![Refinishing a Vintage Upright Piano - [NLH 5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PEiqhDjlv5k/mqdefault.jpg)
Ummmm note for anyone wanting to try this… cover all of the strings. Even the bottom needs to be covered as it will affect the strings!!
Also, I read that professionals generally put on 20ish coats of lacquer for the shine they get.
That is correct, I did catch that mistake after my first coat. A shine coat is generally reserved for concert pianos, or grand/baby grand pianos in general. However, whatever sheen the customer wants can be applied
That was an amazing process to watch! Thanks Boone for the care and detail you gave to restore my grandmother’s piano that is such a sentiment remembrance of her.
It was such a pleasure. Thanks for trusting us with this beautiful piece
@@randydegner after recieving it did you have any troubles with the action or the playing experience rather than having to re tune it upon arrival?
@NosferatuPsychosis nope, no troubles at all
@@the323vlog4 Wish you were in Saudi Arabia with us 😅
I have a Steinway and son upright, Piano it’s Black and there’s some water damage on the top of it including the fabric that was on top, stuck to the piano itself, so there’s a fuzzy feel on the top of the surface. I want to sell it there’s a lot of nicks on it. Do I need to re-sand the whole thing or just those areas and can I paint over the top of it with black lacquer paint? Do I need to disassembleble to do touch-up painting?
For such a well known high end brand I would consult a professional piano repair consultant for guidance so that you do t hurt the value of the piece
Man, that's amazing! What a wonderful transformation! Such an interesting video, thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching and the support!
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing!!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
Loved your class!
Thanks
Beautiful !!! ❤
Thanks!
I want to refinish my old upright piano. It was a church piano for decades. I don't think I'd ever get it put back together.
Great job! thank you for sharing!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
Incredible work!
Thank you for the kind words! That is very encouraging
@@the323vlog4 Would you recommend pure tung oil and/or citrus oil to cut it for refinishing a similar upright piano?
@@kevinjung6130 you probably could, but I typically don’t see those used unless it’s a food safe surface. I personally prefer something heavier duty like an industrial-based finished for wear and tear purposes.
This Cable upright is the exact same as mine ,Great restoration job,I have no information on mine it was given to Me ,in Your opinion was this piano worth the money and effort to restore?
I would say so. A lot of projects like this hold a sentimental value and restoring that is priceless
A truly beautiful restoration. It is a little sad that the piano brand name had to be lost from the front, but that couldn't be avoided.
I agree. I think the decals are available to put them back on, But I wish there was a way to avoid losing them to begin with
So with my '57 Kimball Spinet that I'm refinishing, I'm taking a picture of the og label on the key lid, and I'm recreating it in Photoshop and printing it in vinyl so that when I get done staining, I'll have something as close to the original as possible
@@Kookookutchoo great idea!
@@Kookookutchoo...i also have a Kimball spinet with a Pianocorder player/reproducer attachment. I loaned it to a friend years ago who just "had to have a piano" so she could take lessons! Needless to say, she never took a lesson and the cats were all over that piano and it reeks of those smells of never letting ones cats or dogs outside to do their business. I picked it up today and bought 10 arm and hammer boxes of powder and put them inside! I also put spray furniture polish on it and will continue throughout the week doing this. Eventually I will start sanding a per your instructions! I collect automated musical instruments and this little Kimball came from an antique shop i bought my first Piano from in 8th grade, a 1880's Chickering Square Grand!! Even though, Kimball is a "chevy" in the piano world, it has great nostalgic memories for me! Unfortunately, it was subjected to not so great of an environment, reeks of animal smells, the player part still functions! Thank You Joseph Tushinsky!!!
,
I have a project coming soon and would appreciate if you could share info on the tools you used please
I use a orbital sander (carefully)tkk on remove the finish. Usually start with 80 grit, then 120,150,220 . Stain can be just about any brand. A Clear coat that is user friendly is a wipe on poly by minwax.
Hi,
I'm refinishing a 100 year old up right black Piano.
Love the shade that you have put on its really beautiful.
if you could share the details of the shade you have used would highly appreciate.
Regards
I believe that was an early American stain if I remember correctly
Thanks
@@ricardofernandes4567 my pleasure
He said early American is the shade. It's available at lowes or home depot
What was the paper stuff you used to protect the keys and all that?
It’s just standard masking paper sold at the paint store
i just stained my pianioand it looks amazing! is it necessary to a clear coat on top
I would say, yes, because you want to protect it from any damage. It will protect it from a number of things, plus it gives it a nice sheen.
Wipe on poly urethane is a good friendly option that is easy to apply
What do you do about the brand name? Mine is when you open the cover for the keys. I want to sand and change the stain. Do I just take the brand name off or how do I sand amounts that? Thank you
I would see if it available online or trace it and transfer it into a Cricut and print a new one .
@@the323vlog4 ok thank you! And then when do you put the new one on. Before or after the sealer?
@user-qn3ji6sp5t I would say after the sealer
What size soda blaster tips did you use? Having trouble with mine being effective...
The one I use doesn’t offer different tips to my knowledge.
@@the323vlog4 then I definitely am using the wrong one 😅
@@meaganburwell9354 keep in mind not all finishes can be removed using the blaster. Some are very resilient
@@the323vlog4 I think that's definitely the issue! Thanks for the info 👍🏼
im thinking of restoring an upright i was given, how do i figure out what shade to restain it? (id like it to be as close to the current shade as possible)
The colors on the sample boards at the hardware store are usually pretty accurate. I would start there. If you’re hesitant about it still, maybe start with several sample sizes and test it on the piano. Different wood species can take the stain differently, so it may benefit you to test them first
Was it not possible to just slide out the actions. The pianos I’ve hedged it’s very easy.
Idk. It has been a long time. I believe there was only a screw or two On the sides and it slid up
@@the323vlog4 yeah doing stuff like that can be very intimidating. But once you start it is really easier than it looks. I e tuned and work on a couple myself.
@emaneasler yeah, piano come apart a lot easier than people realize . Pretty cool
Why go straight sanding over a stripper first? Just preference or do you find sanding easier?
I honestly find it easier to just go straight into sanding most of the time. Most of the strippers on the market today don’t have much affect and are more trouble than they are worth in my opinion
Approximately how many man hours? Thanks
It has been a while, but I would estimate close to 15 hours on this one
What grit did you use for the orbital sander?
I probably started with 150 on this project since it was mainly veneered
MAYBE 100 and I was very careful.
If you have a solid wood piece, you could start as low as 80 and work your way up if you want
Awesome work, I couldn't find information on the Renner 662 you mentioned. Is it lacquer, polyurethane? Which sheen did you apply? It seems like a satin but it has some shine to it, so I was confused. Thank you!
I think it was the 1062. I order from a company called Timberlane finishes. It is a waterborne product. I believe it was a satin! thanks for watching
can you also recommend caster wheels?
I would recommend the heady duty casters with a large insert that has to be drilled out like this:
www.ebay.com/itm/291752225041?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
Looks amazing! How long did the whole process take?
It has been a while since this project, but I’d estimate around 12-15 hours
Really fascinating to see. I noticed that there was a brass inlay with the piano's make on it....did you remove that and not put it back? If you did leave it, how did you protect it from getting scratched during the sanding etc? We're about to redo a mahogany piano that we've inherited and don't want to lose the inlay details. Thanks.
Not an inlay, but a decal that gets lost during the removal of the original finish, you can order new ones from companies like decals unlimited and apply it back on. Inlays are a total different story.
@@jorgeandrade20 Ah ok, ours is an inlay...so not sure how to proceed with that.
be very careful! that's a nice feature and you definitely wouldn't want to scratch it up. Maybe tape it off and use an exacto knife to trim around it.
great input, thanks!
Is this something that a beginner could try? I've never done anything like this but I am dying to refinish my piano.
It’s a pretty extensive project for a beginner in my opinion, but anything is possible when you put your mind to it. I would heavily caution you to be careful when sanding, otherwise you could go through the veneer. It would definitely be safest a hand sand or strip first, but can be very labor intensive
can you use paint removal for some of the harder to reach places?
yes, definitely. Chemical strippers are an alternative route to use. They are a little messier, but can definitely get the job done.
What grit sand paper do you recommend?
I have a dewalt electric sander, would that be good enough to use along with manual sanding for the curves / tight spots?
Yes, it should get the job done! If it has veneer I’d recommend 150 if you’re extremely careful or hand sanding altogether. If it’s solid wood, I start as low as 80, then 120,150,220
Name of the piece at the last minutes?
Good question. I’m not positive. I would identify it as the piano keys lid.
@@the323vlog4 I got it. It is called Living Minnesota
What grit of sandpaper did you use?
I usually start with 80.120.150. Unless it’s veneer then I’ll carefully sand with 150, sometime by hand . Last think you want to do is burn through the veneer
@@the323vlog4 Thanks!
@@tylercarey5030 my pleasure
Can you link the top coat product and sprayer? I’ll probably just do the by hand but I’d like to read about the products you mentioned!
Here is the sprayer I use :
amzn.to/3d9QVUz
Here is the topcoat I’ve been using:
tlfinish.com/product/renner-italia-water-base-clear-stain-topcoat-yoxx-1062-00usg/
Great thank you! How many coats do you do with the sprayer? What’s the dry time between coats?
@@candacewhiting9026 usually 3-4. Depends on weather, but usually only 30 minutes in the summer
I am concerned about removing parts because putting it back will be tough
That is a valid concern. A couple of things to help is take a lot of pictures and label parts in ziploc baggies
And why sand over using a stripper? Was that solid wood or veneer?
I believe this was a veneer and wood. They’re usually a mixture. i just prefer the sanding method. I feel it’s faster and less messy
What amount of stain should I purchase to cover the piano? Do I need to do multiple coats of stain or is 1 enough?
I’ve read to either use a water-based polyurethane top coat or a varnish. Is one of those options preferable over the other?
Also I’ve read about using a conditioner prior to the stain. Is that necessary?
One quart should be plenty of stain. Maybe two quarts of tops coat depending on how you’re applying it. I use waterborne finishes that are very durable.
How many labor hours were involved?
I believe it was around 12-15
How much would it cost to have an upright piano refinished? Thank u!
It depends on several factors: market, paint or stain, ornate details of piano. I would say bare minimum $800 in my area. Could be several thousand dollars depending on the details though.
@@the323vlog4 thank u so much!
@@angelamonasterio877 you’re very welcome
Was that a laquer?
I don’t remember 100%, but I think it was a water-based Coating
You didn't include the link for 7:20
amzn.to/40Tn6fz
Thanks for the catch! I have added it now
I'd be concerned with faults in Assembly or disassembly going wrong... Can't do it my self nor can I trust anyone in my country to do it even if they claim they can ... They're not well Educated Nor trained for this task or dealing with Pianos 😢 Even Tuners and Techs here do their job by traid or experience (Trial and error) Not by Education and adequate training.
Intersting, thanks for the input
i have a 80>
Glad it helped!