There is a good reason why car makers don't solder wires at terminals aside from alt and starter pig tails / diodes, same reason they don't do it in aircraft. But crimping is only as good as the tool used to do it, if anyone is not prepared to buy a good quality ratcheting double crimp tool they might be better sticking to solder. Wires snap off at the solder because the copper has been heat treated and is more brittle, which also accelerates corrosion of the wire. If you are going to solder wires be sure the wire has solid mechanical support either side of it and well sealed the moment you solder it. A crimp will take a considerable lack of mechanic harness support to break at the crimp, the more common reason they break at the crimp is some bright spark notched the conductors with their strippers and destined them to snap off. If you feel the stripper make contact with the cores, they are damaged already, you only need to slice though most of the insulator and a pull will do the rest so back off the strippers a bit. One complaint I have with most auto crimp joiners is they lack a second larger crimp on the insulation as well to support the wire. My other crimper for electronic header pins has 2 sizes of crimping in the tool to do the wire and insulator crimp. Using an electrically temperature controlled soldering iron is acceptable for limited uses but anyone that uses a propane soldering weapon of combustion should be frog marched out of the work shop.
Hi, I’m the CEO of 3rd Gen Tire and Service Center in Bay City, Michigan, I would like to thank you for these videos, I told my staff about you, and I know that you have saved them some money, and perhaps increased their efficiency on a few items! We really appreciate your hard work and effort here, making a positive difference in our industry.
Looks a little HOT in the shop there, i use butt unless i have a lot then i solder to make a smaller bundle like ya say...It all works when done correctly...Peace, God Bless America..
one place you do not want to solder is golf cart battery wires, too much heat causes the connection to break down over time then you get a terminal meltdown which can cause an explosion. see it all the time
I attended a 3m seminar years ago. Retired a Fleet Manager of a fleet of fire apparatus. A static conductor is usually soldered. A dynamic conductor is usually crimped. No soldered joints in a 747 or a Seagrave/Pierce fire truck. Like you're channel!
Maybe someone could come up with a butt connector with a strain relief incorporated into it, perhaps also with low temperature solder inside,,,,might be the best of both approaches or a horrible compromise.
They do have those, and as Tucker said they are not cheap and a instructor I respect tried them and found the solder joint was subpar, hard to get enough heat in without melting the connector, so I do not recommend them
Butt connectors are the industry standard. I used to solder all the time, and if the job gives a lot of time and calls for quality, I will solder. However, butt connectors should be the standard for most electrical repairs-I also like the sealed shrink tube connectors. P.S. If you have any resistance with either method, you suck.
soldering is beter if you TIN it first....but connections i keep crushing the daylights outta them..i strip the plastic off at best then solder them then i get artful with black tape dam good at it too..looks factory
I use the butt connectors,double check if they are secured very well.Do this with heat shrink putting this in first before securing it to the other wire.I have seen bad wire repairs with butt connectors,one was with an ABS wheel speed sensor harness in a GM.Anyone knows you can get a replacement harness and this previous person tried to fix the old harness
I would like to see you measuring the resistance before and after with your soldering technique. Since twisting 2 wires will double the amount of copper plus the soldering.
So happy I checked this video again, I'm training up the young tech in electric basics tonight, gonna build some simple circuits and bad grounds etc, breaking out the dvom power probe 3 jumper wires and my new power probe soldering and torch kits tonight. Slow night in the shop means training and education , gonna give him a leg up as hes starting his electric course In school
I use both depending on application. The correct Repair is the one that works for the long haul. Sometimes you have to replace harness sections just to move the repair out of danger.
Depending on the application and the location of the splice is what I use to determine which to use. You're right about the cheapy butt connectors though. I do still have some, but they're just collecting dust at this point.
I bought some for a cub scout project, I was teaching basic wiring to the scouts and bought a pack of them, for it after it was over i chucked them in the trash
Yep I crimp then add some electrical peace of mind solder at the end with extra finesse. My wick is maybe halfway up the crimp if-that. I like the connectors that have a part to wrap/crimp the insulated part of the wire and let the insulation take the vibration. They're hard to find and easy to make with copper tubing. A friend of heatshrink is liquid electrical tape. Easy to coat the whole junction, fastener and all.
Good vid, my preferred method is using the plain barrel splices and using a high quality heat shrink. Less bulk than a butt connector and easier than soldering, and if u want most barrel splices have a hole in the middle to add solder to the connection. But most wiring repairs i run into are in a really tight spot and soldering would just not be possible without major disassembly
Depends on the application. Believe it or not but Cummins sends out all their sensor pigtails with butt connectors on them and in their manual they tell you to stagger them so they will fit in the harness.
I've been soldering my whole life (my folks owned an electronics factory) and it's definitely quicker and cheaper than crimp connectors. There are plenty of issues with it for automotive use though. Wire insulation isn't supposed to be heated and you can damage is integrity if you don't do it properly. Where possible I would prefer to use high quality crimps but they're rarely in my budget
I work for a Police dept. and I use non heat shrink butt connector I use them for a new printer wire or power to a laptop wire. usually in tight spots and try and get the office back on the road. I do the work outside no bay or shelter in bad weather. so I go quick and easy.
I like to make my lineman splices more according to the Nasa standard with 3+ tight adjacent turns with no overlap and neatly trimmed ends although I usually stop of short of pre-tinning the wire unless I want it to go really quickly on the final joint as pre tinned wires solder much faster and cleaner in my experience. I do try to make clean solder joints with nice fillets around the wire overlaps, except when I feel the need to hack something together with unsealed butt connectors, everything has its place. One point is that sometimes its just not possible to get a decent wire crimper into tight confines when you are working say under or in the dash or next to a tight corner so soldering works better then, unless you just unpin the connector and re-wire it out of the vehicle.
Im in the solder camp. But they both have there place. Soldering looks cleaner. And will usually out last butt connectors. Even if the connectors were done write. No space for moisture to get in with soldering. But thats my opinion.
If you are on flat rate a tech uses butt connectors . If you are an hourly tech and you don't have a the shakes, good tool , solder and Work for a professional shop You SOLDER .
I have to say I have a twist I love the heat stink selves with the solder in the middle save so much time all you have to do is heat up and soldered and slaves looks neat fast to do job done
I am in camp butt...I am not against soldering just the connectors are quicker. And you are absolutely right...got keep the green crusties away. Heat shrink, heat shrink, heat shrink...did I mention heat shrink yet?...lol I also use a few bare butt connectors depending g on the application.
So it begins. I know you said you didn't want to do repair videos, but this looks like a segue in that direction. Makes sense, it would be hard to have a channel about working on cars...without working on cars. I use non insulated butt connectors and weather resistant heat shrink. I would argue that the size difference is minimal between that and solder, if you use the correct connector size for the wire. Most of the bulk from butt connectors comes from the extremely thick insulation/pre-applied heat shrink.
Nope, still not going to do DIY repair videos, and yes the size difference on a non-insulated butt connector, with shrink tube will be right around the same size as a soldered joint
These are what i use. Very clean and professional appearing. I even put a second layer of heat shrink and it ends up good as oem czcams.com/video/24FjjIVpk9U/video.html
I like soldering, but my Packard crimpers sure do a nice job, good enough for the many OEM's that use them... plus I kind of suck at soldering. Still a skill I would like to develop though, which only comes with practice. Agree 100% on using heat shrink crimp terminals or at least good heat shrink over regular terminals.
LOL, I think the reason many OEs are preferring Crimp over solder is the reason you use them as well quality solder joints are a skill not everyone has anymore
@@flatratemaster maybe I've done it too many times but I don't get what's so hard about a solder joint. There are plenty of good instructions available for free. As long as you get the solder to flow through the wire, bascially, and you twist the wires together in a manner where the joint is pretty strong before you even use solder, it seems pretty foolproof to me. People just need a good iron that gets hot enough
ill use a butt connector to do a quick diagnostic if it fixes the problem im trying to repair, or if theres more damage thats unseen. Later ill go back and repair it properly with a solder join. I do a western union, but dont bunch it up so much. i want the joint to be long and lean. Ill make a little video today if requested.
I was referring to the jaw of the crimp tool, the non insulated jaw with the nub in it can damage the insulation of the connector and cause water intrusion
Scotch lock wiring connectors are the best hands down - all the best hacks out there use them all the time. It's fun watching a copper wire turn black in one month. LOL
Personally I've had really bad experiences with butt connectors and I prefer soldering wires together... I do see the need and use for connectors in certain applications like you mentioned in this video but if I'm given a choice I prefer soldering!!!
for me in the climate i live in, ive found that solder cracks, and butt connectors corrode unless shink tubed, so linesman splice with shrink tube has never left me stranded.
Hehe you said butt. I use connectors that look like a butt connector but is a heat shrink tube with solder in the middle. So it heatshrinks and solders at the same time. Love your videos keep em coming
I have never used them personally, but an instructor I respect experimented with them and found on autopsy that the solder never got hot enough to flow out right without melting the insulation, but again I have never used them so I can't say much other than that
I use both depending on the situation and I do use a Western Union splice. As a side note the Western union splice is the standard splice that NASA uses. A bunch of years ago i tried every connector I could find and tested it with a fish scale. A lot of the connectors I found at automotive stores had the wires pul out from the crimp at surprisingly low tension. The best I found anywhere were Anchor Marine connectors. Here is a recent test I did with Anchor connectors that were crimped with their new ratcheting crimper. The wire was breaking at 49Lb. and the wire never pulled from the crimp. czcams.com/video/Ni_peXLDE24/video.html Hope you don't mind the link. Chris
I prefer soldering, so I guess I’d be considered a solder Nazi. However, I feel that both are adequate depending on the circumstance and location. I just love soldering stuff.
I work on trucks and heavy equipment. Both of those are hard use applications with lots of vibration. That being said I never use butt connectors or splice connectors. I've seen many of butt connectors come lose. Also I've seen butt connectors on glow plug harnesses cause resistance over heating and melting. I'll proudly proclaim my solder Nazi status! When you've done has many trailer harnesses as I have and you've had to undo the nasty corroded cornucopia of butt connectors you tend to start hating them.
That's funny you said that because the first thing that came to mind is all the 6.0 glow plug module connector kits I have installed on 7.3 Navistar engines. I just use the butt connectors and heat shrink that comes with the kit from International.
Well..I go with solder 90% of the time. For longevity of course, but if a job pays piss, crimp n go. You get what you Pay for. I am also a big spokesman for dielectric grease as a corrosion barrier under the crimp or shrink tubing.
I'm always blown away by how anti-solder some people are. Absolutely a crimp connection can last the life of the vehicle and they are much quicker and easier to do. I'm totally cool with that. But I've met a bunch of people that are vehemently against solder! Without even factoring in time or difficulty. They were totally against solder and totally believed mechanic connections to be superior in every way. Not sure why..? Personally I like to solder. I've never diagnosed something where the cause was a failed solder joint but I've seen many an issue caused by failed crimps. (Not including cases of failed solder joints on factory circuit boards). Of course that's not a very fair comparison as many more people use crimp connections. Especially people with less experience. But I think both have their special concerns that need to be kept in mind when doing a proper splice. If done properly I think either or are just fine and should be a matter of personal preference. Although I think solder is far superior for really thin stuff. I don't think any normal butt connector is going to grab a 20ga wire that well... Personally I think the most important aspect of wiring repair is to take pride in your work. If you do that you'll always try to improve your connections and eventually will hone your techniques to perfection. Even if no one else will ever see your work to appreciate your craftsmanship.
Your never supposed to heat shrink wrap with a flame. Hot air only. You have a butane soldering gun, utilize the hot air blower nozzle on it. No Flame for heat shrink.
What's funny is any electrician will tell you butt connectors are garbage and solder only on sensitive components but wire nuts actually hold up better and less likely to break or come apart but car wiring is differnet
For what its worth, ive done both on my cars, for 6 or so years, and neither have failed on me so far.. I think if you do a good job it snot a big deal
I Bare The Plastic Off my Butt connectors,Crimp , Solder & Heat Shrink Them. I Even solder Trailer Wiring. I Charge Accordingly My Western Is Longer & skinnier than yours. But I've Been doing this 30 Yrs. Yes I'm a Solder Nazi. But At least I Don't wear a Snap on hat.
There is a good reason why car makers don't solder wires at terminals aside from alt and starter pig tails / diodes, same reason they don't do it in aircraft.
But crimping is only as good as the tool used to do it, if anyone is not prepared to buy a good quality ratcheting double crimp tool they might be better sticking to solder.
Wires snap off at the solder because the copper has been heat treated and is more brittle, which also accelerates corrosion of the wire. If you are going to solder wires be sure the wire has solid mechanical support either side of it and well sealed the moment you solder it.
A crimp will take a considerable lack of mechanic harness support to break at the crimp, the more common reason they break at the crimp is some bright spark notched the conductors with their strippers and destined them to snap off.
If you feel the stripper make contact with the cores, they are damaged already, you only need to slice though most of the insulator and a pull will do the rest so back off the strippers a bit.
One complaint I have with most auto crimp joiners is they lack a second larger crimp on the insulation as well to support the wire. My other crimper for electronic header pins has 2 sizes of crimping in the tool to do the wire and insulator crimp.
Using an electrically temperature controlled soldering iron is acceptable for limited uses but anyone that uses a propane soldering weapon of combustion should be frog marched out of the work shop.
Hi, I’m the CEO of 3rd Gen Tire and Service Center in Bay City, Michigan, I would like to thank you for these videos, I told my staff about you, and I know that you have saved them some money, and perhaps increased their efficiency on a few items! We really appreciate your hard work and effort here, making a positive difference in our industry.
I use a third option with weatherpack connectors and dielectric grease.
Looks a little HOT in the shop there, i use butt unless i have a lot then i solder to make a smaller bundle like ya say...It all works when done correctly...Peace, God Bless America..
They call it Hotlanta for a good reason!
I've been using bare crimp connectors with solder and heat shrink
one place you do not want to solder is golf cart battery wires, too much heat causes the connection to break down over time then you get a terminal meltdown which can cause an explosion. see it all the time
I attended a 3m seminar years ago. Retired a Fleet Manager of a fleet of fire apparatus. A static conductor is usually soldered. A dynamic conductor is usually crimped. No soldered joints in a 747 or a Seagrave/Pierce fire truck. Like you're channel!
Thank you!
Maybe someone could come up with a butt connector with a strain relief incorporated into it, perhaps also with low temperature solder inside,,,,might be the best of both approaches or a horrible compromise.
Stan Sbornak they already have them, but they aren't cheap
They do have those, and as Tucker said they are not cheap and a instructor I respect tried them and found the solder joint was subpar, hard to get enough heat in without melting the connector, so I do not recommend them
Oh well....on to the next invention! Tires made out of recycled concrete.!
Butt connectors are the industry standard. I used to solder all the time, and if the job gives a lot of time and calls for quality, I will solder. However, butt connectors should be the standard for most electrical repairs-I also like the sealed shrink tube connectors. P.S. If you have any resistance with either method, you suck.
soldering is beter if you TIN it first....but connections i keep crushing the daylights outta them..i strip the plastic off at best then solder them then i get artful with black tape dam good at it too..looks factory
Food for thought for a mainly DIYer who doesn't want my vehicle doesn't to peeter out on a long drive because of a bad connection. Great job FRM.
Thank you!
I solder almost everything. Gm airbags are very sensitive to resistance, ive found solder tends to hold the resistance value longer for some reason
All air bag systems are sensitive to resistance, get it out of spec and that light will never go away:(
The best way is crimping with the correct tool and a quality crimp with heat shrink capabilities.
what ever works for you!
I use the butt connectors,double check if they are secured very well.Do this with heat shrink putting this in first before securing it to the other wire.I have seen bad wire repairs with butt connectors,one was with an ABS wheel speed sensor harness in a GM.Anyone knows you can get a replacement harness and this previous person tried to fix the old harness
LOL, tying the repair that harness is a total waste of time:)
Some of the Delphi fuel pumps come with a new plug for some of the GMs which get crimped and heat shrinked
Excellent video, your point about soldering communication circuits is crucial.
Thank you!
i use cheap butt connectors but seal them over with liquid electric tape
Exactly what I'd expect from a hack , pretending to be a technician.
I would like to see you measuring the resistance before and after with your soldering technique. Since twisting 2 wires will double the amount of copper plus the soldering.
I like what Ken Schmidt posted about using both crimp and solder and I like to coat with heat shrink tubing.
So happy I checked this video again, I'm training up the young tech in electric basics tonight, gonna build some simple circuits and bad grounds etc, breaking out the dvom power probe 3 jumper wires and my new power probe soldering and torch kits tonight.
Slow night in the shop means training and education , gonna give him a leg up as hes starting his electric course In school
I use both depending on application. The correct Repair is the one that works for the long haul. Sometimes you have to replace harness sections just to move the repair out of danger.
So true!
Depending on the application and the location of the splice is what I use to determine which to use.
You're right about the cheapy butt connectors though. I do still have some, but they're just collecting dust at this point.
I bought some for a cub scout project, I was teaching basic wiring to the scouts and bought a pack of them, for it after it was over i chucked them in the trash
Yep I crimp then add some electrical peace of mind solder at the end with extra finesse. My wick is maybe halfway up the crimp if-that. I like the connectors that have a part to wrap/crimp the insulated part of the wire and let the insulation take the vibration. They're hard to find and easy to make with copper tubing. A friend of heatshrink is liquid electrical tape. Easy to coat the whole junction, fastener and all.
Temperature ! The missing link to all of this. What temperature does your solder melt at or become softened?
New Level Auto Yes good point and it does make a difference .
very good point
Keith, I quess I should have said in the video, do not every buy that Silver solder only 60/40;)
@@flatratemaster Yeah if you have to use lead-free get the flo-temp it at least melts at 430 not 500. I think 60/40 melts at like 375.
Good vid, my preferred method is using the plain barrel splices and using a high quality heat shrink. Less bulk than a butt connector and easier than soldering, and if u want most barrel splices have a hole in the middle to add solder to the connection. But most wiring repairs i run into are in a really tight spot and soldering would just not be possible without major disassembly
Good technique!
Depends on the application. Believe it or not but Cummins sends out all their sensor pigtails with butt connectors on them and in their manual they tell you to stagger them so they will fit in the harness.
so does every truck manufacturer I can think of, I still solder them tho
So does GM, that is where I get my supply of shrink tube butt connectors from;)
I like both depending on location and application. Good subject.
Thank you!
If I want 100% no issues, solder. But Mr Flat rate took the words out of my mouth
I've been soldering my whole life (my folks owned an electronics factory) and it's definitely quicker and cheaper than crimp connectors. There are plenty of issues with it for automotive use though. Wire insulation isn't supposed to be heated and you can damage is integrity if you don't do it properly. Where possible I would prefer to use high quality crimps but they're rarely in my budget
True, I tend to use more shrink tubing to cover any areas that might get affected by the heat.
I agree I use both depending on situation. If it’s one sure I’ll use but connector. If it’s a harness I’ll solder looks better.
I work for a Police dept. and I use non heat shrink butt connector I use them for a new printer wire or power to a laptop wire. usually in tight spots and try and get the office back on the road. I do the work outside no bay or shelter in bad weather. so I go quick and easy.
Inside a car it is unlikely they will get much corrosion, unless the cop spills his coffee ;)
I usually use heat shrink butt connectors or solder. Usually depends on the area I’m working in and ease of access.
I like to make my lineman splices more according to the Nasa standard with 3+ tight adjacent turns with no overlap and neatly trimmed ends although I usually stop of short of pre-tinning the wire unless I want it to go really quickly on the final joint as pre tinned wires solder much faster and cleaner in my experience. I do try to make clean solder joints with nice fillets around the wire overlaps, except when I feel the need to hack something together with unsealed butt connectors, everything has its place. One point is that sometimes its just not possible to get a decent wire crimper into tight confines when you are working say under or in the dash or next to a tight corner so soldering works better then, unless you just unpin the connector and re-wire it out of the vehicle.
nice technique!
Im in the solder camp.
But they both have there place.
Soldering looks cleaner. And will usually out last butt connectors. Even if the connectors were done write. No space for moisture to get in with soldering. But thats my opinion.
I do agree soldered repairs are much easier to hide back in the harness etc!
Definitely a time and place for each.
Yep!
If you are on flat rate a tech uses butt connectors .
If you are an hourly tech and you don't have a the shakes, good tool , solder and
Work for a professional shop
You SOLDER .
I am flat Rate and Solder huh??
@@flatratemaster Sounds like he has the flat rate greed , where ' good enough ' vs correctly is his standard. Pretty sad .
I much prefer solder, however with where I work it’s pretty hard to solder 4/0 AWG cable so we use compression crimp lugs.
I use Both As You Stated Great Topic Flat Rate Master 😎👍🏼👨🏼🔧
Thank you!
They also make all metal buttconnectors small just like soldering and use heatshrink after.
Leon is gonna have fun with 6:43!
LMFAO!!!!!!
Awesome video. New techs like myself appreciate the help 👍🏼
If you offset them there is no problem dude
I like to solder and marine grade heat shrink wire on the outside and will do whatever is faster/easier for wire inside
Good plan!
Vw Audi school butt connectors are the only way
I have to say I have a twist I love the heat stink selves with the solder in the middle save so much time all you have to do is heat up and soldered and slaves looks neat fast to do job done
what every works for you!
Good video. Thanks for the information. I let the situation dictate what connection to use. Eric O. Rocks
Thank you, he is a cool dude as well!
I am in camp butt...I am not against soldering just the connectors are quicker. And you are absolutely right...got keep the green crusties away. Heat shrink, heat shrink, heat shrink...did I mention heat shrink yet?...lol
I also use a few bare butt connectors depending g on the application.
What every works for you!
Like you depends on the application . Good video !
Thank you Norman!
So it begins. I know you said you didn't want to do repair videos, but this looks like a segue in that direction. Makes sense, it would be hard to have a channel about working on cars...without working on cars.
I use non insulated butt connectors and weather resistant heat shrink. I would argue that the size difference is minimal between that and solder, if you use the correct connector size for the wire. Most of the bulk from butt connectors comes from the extremely thick insulation/pre-applied heat shrink.
Nope, still not going to do DIY repair videos, and yes the size difference on a non-insulated butt connector, with shrink tube will be right around the same size as a soldered joint
Check out solder splice connectors. Its a wad of solder sleeve covered by heat shrink and sealant
These are what i use. Very clean and professional appearing. I even put a second layer of heat shrink and it ends up good as oem
czcams.com/video/24FjjIVpk9U/video.html
I am know about them but have never used them
The key is dont overheat them. They make a nice clean install. Just use gentle heat and move it around constantly
You can get them cheap on ebay
I like soldering, but my Packard crimpers sure do a nice job, good enough for the many OEM's that use them... plus I kind of suck at soldering. Still a skill I would like to develop though, which only comes with practice. Agree 100% on using heat shrink crimp terminals or at least good heat shrink over regular terminals.
LOL, I think the reason many OEs are preferring Crimp over solder is the reason you use them as well quality solder joints are a skill not everyone has anymore
@@flatratemaster maybe I've done it too many times but I don't get what's so hard about a solder joint. There are plenty of good instructions available for free. As long as you get the solder to flow through the wire, bascially, and you twist the wires together in a manner where the joint is pretty strong before you even use solder, it seems pretty foolproof to me. People just need a good iron that gets hot enough
Agree with you for the most part, except I'm a huge fan of piercing probes. I always liquid electric tape wherever I probe though.
Piercing probes are a different subject, and yes I use them and use Liquid tape as well!
excellent video,, solder , weather proof heat shrink , glue rigid plastic on with The Amazing goop adhesive to prevent wire flex
i mostly do sealed but connectors and stager them if there is multiple ones and had no issues so far
:)
.2 / Hr per wire repair... H/C Butts!
I think I've used barrel connectors with solder and heat shrink. No idea where they came from. Maybe with some light kit I bought.
I do not have any personal experience with those.
ill use a butt connector to do a quick diagnostic if it fixes the problem im trying to repair, or if theres more damage thats unseen. Later ill go back and repair it properly with a solder join. I do a western union, but dont bunch it up so much. i want the joint to be long and lean. Ill make a little video today if requested.
The joys of filming at 9:45 at night and you are ready to go home after a getting to work at 7 am, i was rushing the joint and didn't want to reshoot
I always use solder. But in school I was taught "that's the proper way" only thing I was told not to solder is CAN bus wires.
excellent topic FM when you were talking poking holes in wires were you reffering to scoth lock connectors or piercing probes ?
I was referring to the jaw of the crimp tool, the non insulated jaw with the nub in it can damage the insulation of the connector and cause water intrusion
every connection in your cars are crimped enough said
Scotch lock wiring connectors are the best hands down - all the best hacks out there use them all the time. It's fun watching a copper wire turn black in one month. LOL
LMFAO!! damn I hate those things!!
i am a firm believer that soldering is the best way to go
:)
I always solder I use the eagle torch lighter they sell at 7-Elevens
LOL
Personally I've had really bad experiences with butt connectors and I prefer soldering wires together... I do see the need and use for connectors in certain applications like you mentioned in this video but if I'm given a choice I prefer soldering!!!
Me too!
for me in the climate i live in, ive found that solder cracks, and butt connectors corrode unless shink tubed, so linesman splice with shrink tube has never left me stranded.
Problem solved. I love these things.
Hehe you said butt. I use connectors that look like a butt connector but is a heat shrink tube with solder in the middle. So it heatshrinks and solders at the same time. Love your videos keep em coming
lol! Thank you I will!
How about shrink tubes with the solders built in?
I have never used them personally, but an instructor I respect experimented with them and found on autopsy that the solder never got hot enough to flow out right without melting the insulation, but again I have never used them so I can't say much other than that
I use both depending on the situation and I do use a Western Union splice. As a side note the Western union splice is the standard splice that NASA uses. A bunch of years ago i tried every connector I could find and tested it with a fish scale. A lot of the connectors I found at automotive stores had the wires pul out from the crimp at surprisingly low tension. The best I found anywhere were Anchor Marine connectors. Here is a recent test I did with Anchor connectors that were crimped with their new ratcheting crimper. The wire was breaking at 49Lb. and the wire never pulled from the crimp. czcams.com/video/Ni_peXLDE24/video.html
Hope you don't mind the link. Chris
i solder everything but lighting circuits, those wires are usually too oxidized to solder anyway
So true, peel back 2 foot of wire just to find a good section to tie into!
I prefer soldering, so I guess I’d be considered a solder Nazi. However, I feel that both are adequate depending on the circumstance and location. I just love soldering stuff.
+The Angry Yota Tech so do I, wierd I know
Wht do you suggest on car speaker wire.
Hey FRM new camera? The Quality looks better, great video. GP
what happened to the L in soLder???
I work on trucks and heavy equipment. Both of those are hard use applications with lots of vibration. That being said I never use butt connectors or splice connectors. I've seen many of butt connectors come lose.
Also I've seen butt connectors on glow plug harnesses cause resistance over heating and melting.
I'll proudly proclaim my solder Nazi status! When you've done has many trailer harnesses as I have and you've had to undo the nasty corroded cornucopia of butt connectors you tend to start hating them.
That's funny you said that because the first thing that came to mind is all the 6.0 glow plug module connector kits I have installed on 7.3 Navistar engines. I just use the butt connectors and heat shrink that comes with the kit from International.
Corey Cline I throw those freaking connectors away. I've had a couple of comebacks on the Valve cover harness connector repairs.
Hey, do what works for you, as I said in the video, I mostly solder too
Well..I go with solder 90% of the time. For longevity of course, but if a job pays piss, crimp n go. You get what you Pay for. I am also a big spokesman for dielectric grease as a corrosion barrier under the crimp or shrink tubing.
What soldering iron is that
I'm always blown away by how anti-solder some people are. Absolutely a crimp connection can last the life of the vehicle and they are much quicker and easier to do. I'm totally cool with that. But I've met a bunch of people that are vehemently against solder! Without even factoring in time or difficulty. They were totally against solder and totally believed mechanic connections to be superior in every way. Not sure why..?
Personally I like to solder. I've never diagnosed something where the cause was a failed solder joint but I've seen many an issue caused by failed crimps. (Not including cases of failed solder joints on factory circuit boards). Of course that's not a very fair comparison as many more people use crimp connections. Especially people with less experience. But I think both have their special concerns that need to be kept in mind when doing a proper splice. If done properly I think either or are just fine and should be a matter of personal preference. Although I think solder is far superior for really thin stuff. I don't think any normal butt connector is going to grab a 20ga wire that well...
Personally I think the most important aspect of wiring repair is to take pride in your work. If you do that you'll always try to improve your connections and eventually will hone your techniques to perfection. Even if no one else will ever see your work to appreciate your craftsmanship.
I like when other guys use just black tape!! That way I know where to look first next time!
LMFAO, so true!!!
👍👌👍👌
Your never supposed to heat shrink wrap with a flame. Hot air only. You have a butane soldering gun, utilize the hot air blower nozzle on it. No Flame for heat shrink.
The flame never touches the shrink tube, just the heat from the torch, I never use direct flame
"Your never supposed to heat shrink wrap with a flame..." fucking guy. Really? Get to work fucker!
Floppycoc104 your angry. Why so angry? I bet your divorced and your kids hate you. Esad, amf.
------> D FOX AUTO
===========))> Floppycoc104
Floppycoc104 that's what I thought. Esad
You forgot to mention wire nuts. Hate when I see those on hack jobs.
I hell no!!! those and scotch locks, HACK!!!
What's funny is any electrician will tell you butt connectors are garbage and solder only on sensitive components but wire nuts actually hold up better and less likely to break or come apart but car wiring is differnet
solder only on my christian chat server
For what its worth, ive done both on my cars, for 6 or so years, and neither have failed on me so far.. I think if you do a good job it snot a big deal
Heat shrinkable butt connectors all day if it's more that one I stagger them. Fast, easy, never has failed me.
What ever works well for you!
Been engineering studies on it
I use butt connectors most of the time but only because in arizona it gets hot enough to melt solder
FRM- What is your opinion on solder sleeves? I was recently introduced to these at work and I thought they ere kind of cool...
I have never used them personally so IDK
What's wrong with twist and tape?
twist and scotch tape is the only way to go
;)
what is the soder iron you us in this video?
Power probe
soLder
What did you use on the jaws for that matco tool? I find the tool causing cuts on wires 🥺
Crimps are a temporary repair. Solder everything!
Hasn't the term "green crusties" been copyrighted by Eric O? I think you owe him a royalty...lol
He's a friend so its ok😉
I Bare The Plastic Off my Butt connectors,Crimp , Solder & Heat Shrink Them. I Even solder Trailer Wiring. I Charge Accordingly My Western Is Longer & skinnier than yours. But I've Been doing this 30 Yrs. Yes I'm a Solder Nazi. But At least I Don't wear a Snap on hat.
Ken Schmidt ☝️👍👍👍👍
You hate that hat;) Sorry I left the Matco hat at home, it will reappear in the coming videos;)
How do you feel about scotch locks
Hate them with a passion
They are evel
I solder 95 percent of the time. Standards people, standards . Are we professionals or diy hacks .
Lol....neither send to dealer......lol.... i soulder by the way
LOL!
Just use twist wire nuts their proven to work lmao
LMFAO!
They don't make automotive ones do they.
lol .... good acting on the crazy eyes! or is that acting ;)
LMFAO!
if I could help Patton direct I would clay.;./ bill ..and ..wally tried to no you need to buy tools first call bs
It depends on your application
it does!