Osmosis Repair Part 3 - Refinishing the hull, new glass, filling and fairing (Project Lottie Ep8)
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- In this episode the Osmosis repair on this Contessa 32 continues and is close to being finished by the end. Having peeled and dried the hull in the previous episodes I now lay up a new skin of glass biax cloth over the hull with epoxy resin, I can then fill and fair the hull using my trusted FlexiSander tools using the same resin (thickened as required). I also fit and fair-in the new central log transducer housing and do a lot of sanding, I then do some more sanding and when I’m not sanding I ache…..then I do some more sanding. The end result is a perfectly fair hull, better than new in many ways as I also fair out some defects from the original build.
Stay tuned for the final video in this Osmosis Mini-series as I still need to dry and repair the rudder, refit seacocks and apply both a barrier coat and Coppercoat to the hull.
Note - I am in no way sponsored by FlexiSander but I do like their tools for this sort of job
Note - I am in no way sponsored by Gurit (the epoxy manufacturer) but like their products
Note - If a manufacturer does want to sponsor me or offer products to try out feel free to get in contact :-)
Many thanks to the owner for giving me permission to create this content based on the refit of his boat.
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About Me
I run a small business called The Solent Boat Butler and spend my days repairing, maintaining and refitting sailing boats (often Contessa 32’s due to my long experience with them). I'm mostly in the central Solent area of the UK. Being a cruising and racing sailor with many thousands of inshore and offshore sea miles logged I like to think that I bring a great deal of real world experience to my work and help many new (and not so new) boat owners to improve and maintain their boats. When I'm not fixing boats I also provide some own-boat sail training, help owners with deliveries and provide consultancy services to those that are refitting their own boats for cruising or racing.
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Disclaimer
I hope that viewers both enjoy and learn something from my videos but please remember to take the appropriate precautions for any DIY refit works you undertake with appropriate PPE and the correct tools for the job. If you are in any way unsure as to how to go about a project or are unsure if something on your boat is safe please consult a professional.
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Music credit - Bensound.com
Wonderful to see the job done so thoroughly. Excellent work and knowledge.
I’m a little puzzled that this boat is worth all that work. The owner must really love her.
I've been binge watching your videos and your level of detail and expertise are phenomenal. Fantastic work.
Thank you, I’m pleased you enjoyed them
I have done 14 blister jobs . My nightmares, waking up screaming, are sure to return.
Haha, true, I have just been asked to quote for a 40’ motorboat but I’m not sure I want the job…
The quality of work is exceptional George.
Thanks Stephen, appreciate the kind comment.
"I've done an awful lot of sanding over the last few weeks ..."
Or as Mads Dahlke would refer to it, "Oh Glorious Sanding!"
Quite a process and very thorough! Would love to see a little of your technique when using the long trowels applying the fairing compound and the sanding using your electric long sander. Thanks
When restoring cars we will do what they call a rotisserie restoration. It basically puts the vehicle in the optimal position to work on. Seems to me they should be doing this with sailboats to alleviate all this overhead sanding. I can see how everybody starts off very gung ho on perfection and then settles for close enough. It looks exhausting.
What a ridiculous amount of work! You are to be admired. I hope you have a good mask (RPE) because you are not clean shaven to wear a tight fitting mask. Amazing workload. Look after yourself.
Thank you, I will
Very informative channel. Excellent 👌
The last time we put the heating pads on the hull to dry her out one of the painters in the yard knew a electrician who came in and rigged the electricity meter :):):) we saved a bloody fortune !! Hull is now perfect money very well spent:):):):)
I hope you don't bring your boats to my yard and expect to steal my electricity and bragg about it. Your a thief!
Enjoying your series, thanks. I would like to see the tools you introduce in action though, even if it’s just for 10-15 seconds.
Noted! G
Thank God I found one here on CZcams who knows what he's doing. Good work, I hope that these videos of yours serve as an example for those who are renovating boats and do it wrong. I'm looking for a 40 or even 50 foot one for renovation at a good price. If you know something!?
Thanks, yes there is the good the bad and the ugly when it comes to some of the refit and repair works I have seen on various boats. I’m all for owners work on their own boats so happy to share what I do but sometimes I do see greater enthusiasm than skill. I can’t share all the nuances, tips and tricks but these videos hopefully show the time, skill, planning and effort required to carry out a particular task.
The static effect was just amazing! No one had shown this before i guess. Great and very informative video! I don´t know hof much editing work it would mean to you, but do you have the ability to integrate timelapses? I love watching a thourough video like this one, but imho the addition of more dynamic elements would elevate them even more. As a viewer the perception of this vid is you show the boat, explain very interesting things show a some details but the camera is mostly showing the static picture of a boat. Then you cut and explain that you did lots of filling and sanding and explain detailed changes but again in the picture is just the boat. What other channels do and I think adds a lot to the excitement ist putting in timelapses showing the actual work being done. Imho some of the viewers attraction of project channels like yours is watching actual people doing actual manual work. For many people i guess this is a rare sight nowadays. I don´t know how much additional work that would be for you but imho it might add even more to the enjoyment of watchign your great work. Some examples of what I mean might be Acorn to Arabella, Dan Chambers and Expedition Evans. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment, really appreciate the thoughts. I will try to include more timelapse clips on videos as I can do it. The thing for me is that I do youtube vids as a side project to the real work of fixing and refitting boats for a living so try not to spend too much time on it as I have to earn a living in the real world and get my customers boats back on the water ASAP. I will take onboard your thoughts and thank you for taking the time, I can only get better though the advice from others.
Beautiful shape these Contessas. I can see why they are worth renewing. Well done on all that singlehanded work!
Ooh - I would love to see CopperCoat being applied to Lottie's bottom. 😂
Nice work.
Thank you! Cheers
That is some piece of work George! I've never enjoyed sanding so much.....
🍺 in the post. Cheers.
Thanks.
Wow! That is one heck of a job. Looks amazing. Thank you for sharing
Have a Farr 39ft One Tonner from 1987, former UK AC Jamarella built in carbon by Killian Bushe. Has some osmosis like the bubbles on this Contessa. But carbon repair seems quite hard.... The whole osmosis treatment in your videos is so well explained! Well done!
Very nice boat, thanks very much.
That's a tremendous amount of work to redo the hall. Much appreciated in the knowledge that you are sharing.
My arms and shoulders agree!
Nice work George. Laying up glass even on a hull that size on yer tod is hard work, having two people isn’t twice as quick - it’s probably three times quicker.😉😀👍
Agree, last one I did (prior to this one) I had an assistant for the laminating and two people can achieve more than two people’s work (at least it feels like it!)
At 13:10. I bet that blue lightning is from half a century of being in the sea. Whada they call it? Shwepavesance ? Like when you chuck yu dishwater over side and it lights up all blue.
You make hanging fiberglass overhead look easy. : )
Haha thanks!
Thanks for sharing , currently doing the same work on my own boat, BR34, so i can totally relate to the hard work and effort you are putting in to this project
Best of luck with your refit
Very thorough and good content; but the volume is so different between music and speech that it popped my ears!
Thanks, yes, this is one of my earlier videos, I got better as I made more so hopefully you will enjoy my more recent vids with less ear popping!!
Really enjoying watching this process, thank you!
Thanks for watching and the comment, new episode out tomorrow
Thank you. I have learned lots from this .. Very good work. Wish you were in Florida to help me with my boat.
Again very insightful and brilliant work! Thank you for sharing.
Another excellent video George thank you for sharing the process 👍
Thanks for watching and the comment.
after sanding 7 layers of failed epoxy paint off my boat with a 6 inch festool i can defo say if i did it again i would use a smaller sander like you have
I would be very grateful for the blue one Jr
Amazing work and Expertise A1.
Fantastic job...congratulations.
Whatever your customer paid you, it is not enough🙂
My arms and shoulders agree 😂. Got to do another larger boat soon 😬
Saint Elmo's Fire! :-)
More great information…..which brand epoxy do you use, what do you thicken it with prior to applying the un thickened , and what weight biax glass do you use and do you roll it out or not? Thanks
Another very interesting video, George. I don't think my shoulders are built for all that sanding - although I shouldn't need to worry about this for my boat for a while!! For some reason I imagined that you would need a complete layer of fairing compound or whatever (on top of the fiberglass) over the whole hull equivalent to the original layer of gelcoat, and I always wondered how you would achieve an even thickness and how the hull profile would be maintained. Now I know!
Quite interesting that you are planning to remove the wet foam in the skeg from inside the boat, because being un-enlightened, I would have cut an access panel in the side of the skeg to get better access and perhaps make it easier to get all the foam out. I would be interested in your reasoning.
Have you glassed-in the new GRP stern tube yet, because I've always wondered how you do this?
Incidentally, in later glimpses of the neighbouring boat it looks as though the hull is now grey epoxy/primer/antifoul or whatever. Has the coppercoat been replaced?
Hi John, pleased to her you enjoyed the video.
I will remove the foam from the top of the skeg as I think it’s going to be easier than cutting an access hatch in the side and then making that good after. Also the new foam will need to be poured in, it expands in place so really needs to be poured from the top rather than the side. The plan is to remove the engine and the bulkhead behind the engine to afford better access to the top of the skeg and I can fit the new seacocks at the same time. Your boat does not have that extra bulkhead after of the engine. I will fit the new stern tube once the foam is all out, it will be bonded at each end and the new foam will also secure it as I will be using epoxy boat which is also a semi structural adhesive (that is often used when building rudders on more modern boats.
Boat neighbour in the shed has had a gelshield epoxy coating applied and will get its copper shortly I believe.
@@RefitandSail Thanks for taking the time to explain that, George. Much appreciated.
Nice job!
Thanks :-)
Amazing vodeo series thanks for the insight. When you say material blast is that similar to sandblasting? If so is it just sand or a sand and water mix? Could the same result be achieved with a steong pressure washer like you did with the rudder? Cheers.
I think the media used was crushed glass but I leave that to the experts who do it for a living as different media is used on different materials. Needs to me more than a water pressure wash unless you have an immensely powerful pressure washer.
questions: could an extensive media blast be done instead of the peel? was there no gelcoat reapplication? thanks.. Love your work mate
Potentially but it would take a very skilled media blasting operatives to get an even removal of material. That’s why boats are normally peeled.
Amazing! so how long did it eventually take to dry with your method? and - how satisfying to see the result!
I think it was two weeks of washing and air drying and then two weeks with the heat and vac pads to dry then the surface rebuild as per this video. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video series, would be better to reduce the volume of the music or forget the music.
I've drilled out with a Dremel some inspection patches through the Gel coat on my Contessa and now I'm ready to fill them again with International Watertite filler. My question is where around the patches should I paint my undercoat primer ? Should I prime inside the drilled out holes or leave that bare for the Watertite to bond direct ? Will the smeared Watertite bond to paint primer ? Thanks in advance.
What is the advantage of epoxy vs. poly resin and is there any instance where one is more advantageous-like for bonding strength in a repair?
Very nice craftsmanship. What weight and type of glass did you use to cover the hull? I just peeled the gell coat off my sail boat and letting the hull dry out while i work on other projects.
I think I mention the weight of the glass in the video, from memory it’s 300g but may be 350g.
Considering how many groundings the average yacht will have over its lifetime, wouldn´t it be time for another Mr. Dunlop to come along and develop a (hard) rubber skid to mount where your repair to the front of the keel went, George?
Great job really enjoying watching your videos , hope you dont mind me asking but what weight biax did you use? I’m assuming it depends how deep you plain ? and what fairing filler additive have you used , and are you using west system epoxy ?
Thanks again
Thanks for the comment. The weight of glass needed to refinish a hull is dependant to a great extent on how much needed to be removed for the drying to be successful, I used one layer of 300g biax on this boat, if I had needed more material I could have used 450g or two layers of 300g. While I have used WEST in the past I am not using it for this job as I believe there are better options. WEST suffers very badly with amine blush when curing and I don’t want to be cleaning that off every time I use it as it’s just a waste of time. I have used Gurit Ampro epoxy for the whole job and am using a mix of West low density filler and Q-cell for the additives because I know it works and while there are premixed epoxy fillers I could use they are more expensive and I want to use the same base epoxy system for the entire repair.
@@RefitandSail thanks for taking the time to reply I will def look into the gurit ampro epoxy ,also if as you say on a job you might use 2 layers of 300g biax Is there a reason to not just use 1 layer of 600 ? , would that build the same thickness in theory?
@@nickshipman620 no issue with using one layer of 600 other than it will take a bit more effort to wet out (remembering that epoxy likes to be warm and it much much easier to wet out glass with warm epoxy/hull). It would also be physically heavier so getting it to adhere to the epoxy on the hull prior to wetting out may be trickier but doable with a helper I expect.
Amazing workmanship. I have a Contessa 32 and would like to install an Airmar transducer in the bow similar to what you have done in this video. Did you fiberglass the bronze thru-hull into the hull, or use 3M 4200 so it could be removed at a later date? Did you have any problems with the length of the bronze thru-hull in that location?
It’s bonded in with thickened epoxy and then further reinforcements added internally (epoxy thickened + chopped glass strands).
I have just completed the installation of the Airmar transducer in the bow of my Contessa at roughly the same location as in Project Lottie. Very tricky because of the sharp angle of the vee in the bow but fortunately the bronze through hull fitting was long enough. I added about twenty layers of fiberglass cloth inside to create a level mount for the transducer. After drilling the two inch diameter hole I wrapped the bronze through hull with plastic tape, then inserted it as a temporary form. Then I added eleven layers of 1708 biaxial cloth to the outside of the hull on each side of the transducer, beginning with a large piece and with each subsequent piece slightly smaller in area until the final piece just covered the transducer itself. The result was a linear transition which was half an inch thick around the transducer and required very little fairing. Then I removed the bronze through hull, cleaned it up and did a proper installation with 3M4200 so it could be replaced in the distant future if necessary. No leaks. It worked out beautifully, but would not have been possible without your inspiration -- you showed that it was possible. Thanks again.
You could call it: "Project LOTS of Money" ;-)
Worth every penny!
@@RefitandSail Absolutely! But may I suggest that when you present the bill to the owner, that you have a nurse with you with a defibrillator ready for use.
George what do you think about glassing both sides at the same time with a single piece of glass so that the join is not on the hull centre seam
Probably hard to achieve both sides at the same time as I use masking tape on the peel ply to help the glass confirm to the tight radius at the lowest point, if doing both sides (on a co32 at least) it would be hard to get the glass to take that tight radius on its own.
why didnt you leaned the boat like 5 degrees on one side to have opposite side free to lay out the glass layers lengthwise?
I don’t think that would be particularly safe in a cradle. It would be better maybe to have a cradle that had pads on the hull above the water but that’s not available to me. Also easier to handle smaller lengths of glass
Could i ask what is the approximate cost of all the materials and labour for you to do Lotte's osmosis treatment. The job you are doing is top quality by the way.
Could you approximate for a 30ft, 35ft and 40ft.
Thank you, Graham.
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment, I’d rather not put my pricing in the public domain here as I have agreed with the owner not to discuss pricing in the videos. I’m more expensive than some (but their work is of variable quality in my opinion) but cheaper than others as I’m independent and don’t have the overheads of a larger yard. Every boat is also going to be different in terms of how long it needs to dry, how many seacocks to remove/replace, will some areas need a second peel, what other issues may be found as they have on this boat. If you have a specific requirement you are welcome to email me.
@@RefitandSail Totally understand, where can i find your e-mail?
@@grahampinchbeck99 george(at)solentboatbutler.co.uk
Showing my ignorance, with the weight being carried by the keel in a protected environment, why not put the pads above the waterline?
No ignorance at all, the boat is on higher than normal blocks so I could access the bottom of the keel and the arms on the cradle are not long enough to reach up onto the topsides. I agree this would be the ideal solution and I can do it with my own cradle but not possible with the cradle I have to use in this yard. Using two cradles makes it less of a faff but it’s still a faff doing under the cradle pads. Thanks for the comment.
I have a 33ft boat from the 1980s with this problem, what sort of price would I be looking at to get her peeled and re-done?
Your best option for pricing/estimates is to email me but I do have a waiting list of clients.
Is all of this work cost effective versus buying a boat without the problem?
Depends on the cost of the boat and what the long terms plans are I guess. Of course it would be nicer to buy a boat without osmotic blistering but unless you wish you spend 300k GBP on a new co32 then you are probably looking to buy one that was built in the 70’s whish is when the majority of them were built. Because these are all old boats now any have a degree of osmotic action/dampness in the hull, many have had this sort of work and some have not (or may not need it if they have spent long periods ashore in that 50 years.
I think what I’m saying is if you are buying a 30-50 year old boat you have to expect some of these old-boat issues.
for 36 years i owned a 57 foot Chris Craft and after watching your video my arms are exhausted lol and i think back wonder how on earth did little old me sand the bottom of my boat , i use to do it every 24 months so that was 18 times so figure 50 feet per side equals like 1800 feet of bottom sanding
Sounds like that was a big job. Thanks for watching and the comment :-)
What's the benefit of white pigment clear epoxy on top of the faired surface as the last layer before barrier coat? Why not barrier coat directly on the fairing?
Using a solid colour that you apply and then sand though is called a guide coat and make it easier to find any imperfections in the surface so they can be filled prior to putting on the barrier coatings
WOW 😻😻😻😻😻😻😻 💯 💯 💯 🙀 🙀 🙀 🙀 🙀👏👏👏
How do y9u apply unthickened epoxy on top of fresh thickened epoxy? The thickened layer doesn't get 'pulled' and disturbed by the top layer of sticky clear epoxy?
As I filmed this a short while ago now I can’t think which bit of the video you are asking about but as long as it’s warm so the epoxy is reasonably liquid (it becomes more viscous when cold) it is possible to carefully roll or paint unthickened epoxy over thickened epoxy without disturbing too much although it would be easier to do it once the first layer has gelled/set up to come extent so it’s firm (if not hard). Hope that helps answer the question
Peel-ply?
You used west system?
Not West System epoxy as I prefer another brand but Peel ply is often used (as I did in this video) over glass/epoxy
what does a refit like this cost?
I don’t discuss costs publicly, sorry.
Where do you get those vacuum / heating pads ??
They were custom made for me, not an off-the-shelf product. I had to spec them in terms of size, wattage, location of temp sensor, type of controller, etc, etc. Can’t remember the name of the company now but google is your friend.
Varför så hög musik?
Du måste lära dig att hitta en balans, mellan tal och musik, i detta fallet, så är man tvungen att stänga ner ljudet, och försöka att läsa på dina läppar!
Thanks, I had turned it down but not enough, I’m a boat builder not a video maker so I hope to get better that with time. Thanks for watching
Just don't peel off the peel ply in a vacuum!
Spelade stop plåtning, i got migrains
MORE WORK AND LESS YAP YAP WOULD BE GOOD