You have inspired me to get back into the garage and get working on rebuilding my 57' Dodge short box truck pro-street. When I find myself up against the impossible, I ask myself "What would Fitzee do!" Like so many others that have already stated, your ability to break down a complex piece into bite size bits and then communicate it to us as an educational video is truly remarkable! Thank you!
Thanks for posting. Most of us, who have looked at custom cars, never realized just how much work goes into them. Especially, the areas that we'll never see. Thanks again.
I was one of those people saying…. What’s the big deal? Just slot the holes…. Not Tony!!! No Sir he says… not goin at it…. I’m doin it right from the get-go…. That’s the reason why everyone loves this channel … no cutting corners with this guy… Well done again Sir!!!👏👏👏👏👏👌
Never miss a chance to watch you workout a challenge watching you is a trip to my youth watching my elders and them teaching me just like a mirror to my mind What a great guy you are
I'm never going to build a car frame BUT I still enjoy your approach and explanations on solving a problem and making adjustment until you get it right. Great video.
Tony, thank you for the safety tip of pinching the cut off wheel. I have never had to cut a frame rail and getting it caught under power could be a major health issue. Much appreciated. I imagine many structures can have the same issue and it is food for thought before hitting the switch.
Wow! That sure was interesting figuring out moving the frame rails in to make room for putting in your seat and then making mounts to put the seat in at a lower angle. You did a great job of explaining everything on how you did all of this. you are a fantastic teacher.
I used a similar seat mounting solution on my Firebird, but used 1”x3” rectangular tubing to bolt the seat to, I also used 2x3 rectangular tubing for my rockers and inside frame rail. I had mentioned this issue in an earlier frame video because I ran into the same problem
I don't see you figuring anything for heat in the winter and especially, no air conditioning. Don't you want to be cool running down those Canadian dragstrips in hot weather? Ok, all kidding aside, this series has been amazingly educational and interesting beyond belief. Thank you so much.
I remember these early Corollas, they were true rust bucket but their 1600HEMI engines were great. The way you build that car, for sure that it gained considerable weight but it gained rigidity too. I don't believe that you'll be able to plate it to use on the road but that car will be a real contender on the drag strips. I'm anxious to see the project completed. very good work and video.
I like your style. you know the engineers would have a fit because you didn't plan the seats out & had to rework . but they only see the theory side, not the practical side. with the way you cut your pieces makes sense. a buddy built a bunch of outdoor seating & tables for a bar out of 2" square tube. he did the same thing and had virtually no waste because he did the matching cuts like you did. many people think they have to start with a square cut before they cut the angles. good tip for everyone. your process for making parts the same are great too. common sense but seeing it makes so much sense
Hi Tony. It must have been hard to cut into the chassis that you put together so nicely. The end result is great but I know I would have had a hard time making that first cut. I guess pondering over it helps too. Thanks for the video! -mike
Have same seats I my hot rod never liked them and didn't like the fact that 2 of the bolt were to the floor sheet metal. Your video makes me realize my seat angle is all wrong maybe they would be ok if I mount them correctly. Thanks keep videos coming.
Damn man. Certainly smart fer a nufie. Lol that’s coming from Brunswick mic Mac. Love your channel and stealing ideas to get my 68 stang ifs and LS manual swap done. Thanks keep it up, can’t wait till u giver GO!!!!!
As always tony tips were great Its always a great night when i watch your videos and learn new things. And yes i was yelling oblong the holes lol. Thanks for your videos tony
If you have problems with parts pulling when welding, try sequence welding instead of straight welding. I was making some frames and having trouble with them pulling out of square , so I sequence welded them instead and they stayed square.
Its always the little things huh Fitzee that test us and bite us in the bum but you got it there mate and your sat where you wanna site so great result and great job 👍
Hi Tony interesting video. As I watched I was thinking, a dangerous thin for me to do. You knew where and at what angel you wanted the seat. If you hung the seat in position from the roof, then took measurements to make your bracing fit the hung seat position. There might have been less refitting required. A different approach to fitment issues. You got it done and can check that off your list.
Nice work Fitzee. An uncomfortable race driver is an unsuccessful race driver. In the '80's I built a '71 Pinto with an Alston kit and fit a 6'5" driver similar to how you solved your problem.
Nice work Fitzee, mind you i don't think you can get away with one of those racing buckets for Wendy. She'll be needing a Toyota Crown Super Deluxe seat😁
👍💪✌ Hey Tony, I prefer the millimeters vs. old school measurements. It's way easier to use as well. Nice job, it takes what it takes, best to redo things if you are not happy. Now is easier than once you are done! Guess the inspector Peanut didn't make it out today. Am sure she's approve 😉
Great tips as usual. Had to laugh when you said, "Hey Tony, just long gate the holes." Since I was thinking that too, to move the seat forward a little bit. You are spot on when it comes to making parts like the outside gussets. Will you make plates for the underside of the angled pieces since they will be under tension now?
Hey Fitzee, let me start my first comment on your channel by expressing my utmost respect of what you do and how you do it. I am doing some metal shaping my own, but pull my hat about your skills and knowledge. It only gave me some concerns when I saw how close the frame is towards the back of your seat. Sure - the frame is expected and supposed to remain the rigid element in case of an accident. But I still would be afraid that in case of a heavy hit from the rear, the frame could break or deform and shove that corner throuh the seat right into my spine. So I guess, I would cut off the sharp corner and flatten it.
Ponderin' an' thinkin', Where he be sittin'. A wide hide he be. Old school his glee. When throne he choose. A few inches must lose, Lower must noggin go. Cut, fit, weld, 'til just so. Task is now complete, Much ado 'bout a seat. ,
You must protect yourself. The upper part of the seat is literally in touch with the frame. Any significant blow from the rear will result in breaking your spine. That's not safe. I believe you have to increase the distance between the seat and the frame behind it and also put a buffer there.
Where the back of the seat is so close to or touching the frame rail "point". You did round it a little. Not good enough to keep from possibly feeling it on your back on acceleration or wheelies (: , That seat back WILL flex. I suggest cutting the corner out of the frame "point". Just the top and front of the rail. Then weld in a short piece of that 1" tube to make more of a rounded tip/point..... and at the same tme maintain structural by using the short piece of tube for a "new frame corner". I think you will be surprised at the clearance it will create. Anyway draw it up on the bench top and see. A larger than 1" tube would be even better, you can cut back the point further. If a piece of roll cage tube will fit, that is the Coupe De Grass. I know you will say yo can't weld all around the tube, it will be trapped inside. So let it be cradled and stick out both sides and weld. The above may spark a better idea than mine. Kudos on your progress and thanks for the videos.
I'm curious if the use of round tube on the rocker bar is due to some compliance issue. Seems like using the rectangular tube would have given you the space to weld the two cross bars in high at the front and low at the rear to get the angle you were chasing.
Yes it would have but the rocker bar is part of the roll cage and where it's tight to rocker the tubing gives a easier access to welding on the body plates later on.
You have inspired me to get back into the garage and get working on rebuilding my 57' Dodge short box truck pro-street. When I find myself up against the impossible, I ask myself "What would Fitzee do!" Like so many others that have already stated, your ability to break down a complex piece into bite size bits and then communicate it to us as an educational video is truly remarkable! Thank you!
Thanks for posting. Most of us, who have looked at custom cars, never realized just how much work goes into them. Especially, the areas that we'll never see. Thanks again.
Love watching you work through the problems , never stop till it suits you . Your the man Tony!
I was one of those people saying…. What’s the big deal? Just slot the holes…. Not Tony!!! No Sir he says… not goin at it…. I’m doin it right from the get-go…. That’s the reason why everyone loves this channel … no cutting corners with this guy… Well done again Sir!!!👏👏👏👏👏👌
Tony, I just caught up from the last two videos; they're very informative and interesting videos. Great to see Crusty move along. Thank you.
Hi Donald how are you doing today 😊
Never miss a chance to watch you workout a challenge watching you is a trip to my youth watching my elders and them teaching me just like a mirror to my mind What a great guy you are
I'm never going to build a car frame BUT I still enjoy your approach and explanations on solving a problem and making adjustment until you get it right. Great video.
Excellent problem solving. I love Crusty episodes!
Tony, thank you for the safety tip of pinching the cut off wheel. I have never had to cut a frame rail and getting it caught under power could be a major health issue. Much appreciated. I imagine many structures can have the same issue and it is food for thought before hitting the switch.
WOW! That was certainly an undertaking. I liked the way you moved the frame members without changing the integrity or the squareness of it. Great Job!
no one would ever know you mod the frame rails, and they look perfect , like it was design to be ... as always thanks for sharing Tony.
That looks like it will be a great set up. Strong, not overly heavy and clean. Nice work!
Tony, you are such an entertaining and informative guy! Truly a seat-of-the-pants engineer. Thanks for all you do!
Wow! That sure was interesting figuring out moving the frame rails in to make room for putting in your seat and then making mounts to put the seat in at a lower angle. You did a great job of explaining everything on how you did all of this. you are a fantastic teacher.
Outstsanding. Very creative. Can’t wait to see the floors installed and the dash. Crusty is almost done. The tips were good.
That was a battle Tony but the end result seems brilliant, the car is wrapped around you perfectly.
Another great episode. You have given me many things to consider in my MGB build. Thanks for taking us along.
Thank you for all your videos, I've learned a ton of stuff that makes it so much easier.
Fitzee, did you ever do a video on installing a motor on the new bead roller you bought?
Great video Tony. Can't wait to see more of this build.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE, the standard measurements. Don't change. Thank You.
Fitzee! thank you. I need to do almost exactly what you did in my 66 Coronet and thanks to you I now have a solid road map. 😎👍
Looks good and now there’s a seat brace video. Definitely much to consider for the final outcome to function correctly and feel right.
That little Toyota is going to be the "King of Wheel's"! WoW. What a build. DK. Retired ASE Master Tech.
I used a similar seat mounting solution on my Firebird, but used 1”x3” rectangular tubing to bolt the seat to, I also used 2x3 rectangular tubing for my rockers and inside frame rail. I had mentioned this issue in an earlier frame video because I ran into the same problem
Fitzee doesn't say "aluminium," might have an accent but he's still one of us. 👍👍
I don't see you figuring anything for heat in the winter and especially, no air conditioning. Don't you want to be cool running down those Canadian dragstrips in hot weather?
Ok, all kidding aside, this series has been amazingly educational and interesting beyond belief. Thank you so much.
Precision job as always !
Nice solution to the tilt issues and I think the sidestepped framework looks great, you figured out another one Tony, great job
Hey mate, I love watching this build. Keep up the awesome work.
Always great to watch you work keep up the vids 👍👍👍👍👍
You are getting a lot of progress done, brother. Great work. I love the content.
The Dream is real when you sit in that seat , NICE !
I remember these early Corollas, they were true rust bucket but their 1600HEMI engines were great. The way you build that car, for sure that it gained considerable weight but it gained rigidity too.
I don't believe that you'll be able to plate it to use on the road but that car will be a real contender on the drag strips.
I'm anxious to see the project completed.
very good work and video.
I like your style. you know the engineers would have a fit because you didn't plan the seats out & had to rework . but they only see the theory side, not the practical side. with the way you cut your pieces makes sense. a buddy built a bunch of outdoor seating & tables for a bar out of 2" square tube. he did the same thing and had virtually no waste because he did the matching cuts like you did. many people think they have to start with a square cut before they cut the angles. good tip for everyone. your process for making parts the same are great too. common sense but seeing it makes so much sense
You are the best! I love the seat. Car will fit like a glove.
Always enjoy your posts sir. Enjoy your weekend!
Hi Tony. It must have been hard to cut into the chassis that you put together so nicely. The end result is great but I know I would have had a hard time making that first cut. I guess pondering over it helps too. Thanks for the video!
-mike
Have same seats I my hot rod never liked them and didn't like the fact that 2 of the bolt were to the floor sheet metal. Your video makes me realize my seat angle is all wrong maybe they would be ok if I mount them correctly. Thanks keep videos coming.
Look forward to your videos every week Fitz ❤
Gonna be watching as soon as we get done deliveries and get chores done and the “mouths” fed. Looking forward to another one!!
Yes sir that was quite the job never a doubt .Well done sir Tony great video
Crusty is coming right along 👍
Damn man. Certainly smart fer a nufie. Lol that’s coming from Brunswick mic Mac. Love your channel and stealing ideas to get my 68 stang ifs and LS manual swap done. Thanks keep it up, can’t wait till u giver GO!!!!!
As always tony tips were great
Its always a great night when i watch your videos and learn new things. And yes i was yelling oblong the holes lol. Thanks for your videos tony
Love ya, man! Keep up the good work. 👍
Very good job on this gem.
That is one bad ass car, great work.
Great video, Tony !
Tony good modifications Looks Great
Great work, as always.
Looking great Fitz.. some nice work !!
Phenomenal work!!👍👍👍👌👌👌
Awesome again buddy!
Good job Tony.
If you have problems with parts pulling when welding, try sequence welding instead of straight welding. I was making some frames and having trouble with them pulling out of square , so I sequence welded them instead and they stayed square.
Great video fitz from Birmingham uk
Nice job Fitz! Makes me want the Datsun back. Well...always did really! LOL
Little cars big engines is in our blood.
The tips were good!
Nice work 👍
That last clip of you pretending to tool around in that car (engine noise special effects included) was priceless...
Good tips! Thank you sir!
Its always the little things huh Fitzee that test us and bite us in the bum but you got it there mate and your sat where you wanna site so great result and great job 👍
Thanks. I really appreciate the instruction that I’ve received. ❤🇦🇺🇨🇦
Thank you.
Best channel on youtube
Nice work
thanks fitzee the tips are good
Interesting, I've never seen a fishplate that goes around the corner like that...but i can see how it adds strength.
Hi Tony interesting video. As I watched I was thinking, a dangerous thin for me to do. You knew where and at what angel you wanted the seat. If you hung the seat in position from the roof, then took measurements to make your bracing fit the hung seat position. There might have been less refitting required. A different approach to fitment issues. You got it done and can check that off your list.
"I don't make templates" unless I need to make a template!! Sometimes it's the best way.
Glad i watched to the end car noises lol Brumm Brumm. Hilarious. Kev from uk
Awesome!
Getting there !
Nice work Fitzee. An uncomfortable race driver is an unsuccessful race driver. In the '80's I built a '71 Pinto with an Alston kit and fit a 6'5" driver similar to how you solved your problem.
Nice work fitz. Please put a wheelie bar on that thing.
Nice work Fitzee, mind you i don't think you can get away with one of those racing buckets for Wendy. She'll be needing a Toyota Crown Super Deluxe seat😁
Good on ya!!!!
Keep at it!
Need to weld 3/16 flat at 90 degrees to flat strap seat mounts so they will never bend in a crash!
Use to build them out of heavy unistrut back in the seventies.
good stuff.
Thanks
👍💪✌
Hey Tony, I prefer the millimeters vs. old school measurements. It's way easier to use as well.
Nice job, it takes what it takes, best to redo things if you are not happy. Now is easier than once you are done!
Guess the inspector Peanut didn't make it out today. Am sure she's approve 😉
No peanut. To cold out. She hibernating in the house till spring. Lol
@@fitzeesfabrications thought that's the reason. My three cats love the warmth of the house as well.
Thanks!
Thank you.
Great tips as usual. Had to laugh when you said, "Hey Tony, just long gate the holes." Since I was thinking that too, to move the seat forward a little bit.
You are spot on when it comes to making parts like the outside gussets. Will you make plates for the underside of the angled pieces since they will be under tension now?
love the car noises. And two mm is 0.079 inches or 5/64 of an inch. Or a small skosh 🤣
Hey Fitzee, let me start my first comment on your channel by expressing my utmost respect of what you do and how you do it. I am doing some metal shaping my own, but pull my hat about your skills and knowledge.
It only gave me some concerns when I saw how close the frame is towards the back of your seat. Sure - the frame is expected and supposed to remain the rigid element in case of an accident. But I still would be afraid that in case of a heavy hit from the rear, the frame could break or deform and shove that corner throuh the seat right into my spine.
So I guess, I would cut off the sharp corner and flatten it.
I tend to address this section at a later date
I Like it 😁
You must have hands of steel Fitzee, using a mig with no gloves!
Always thought it would take some work to get a big guy in a small car. That's a 5'10" and under daily commuter!
Could've used coped pipe mounts in the tubes. They'd have to be closer together due to the seat mounting holes.
Tony i would radius that edge on that down bar on the top side with a 3/16 steel patch.... if nothing else for piece of mind.
Merci!
Thank you
Ponderin' an' thinkin',
Where he be sittin'.
A wide hide he be.
Old school his glee.
When throne he choose.
A few inches must lose,
Lower must noggin go.
Cut, fit, weld, 'til just so.
Task is now complete,
Much ado 'bout a seat.
,
Nice to see a shield lol
You must protect yourself. The upper part of the seat is literally in touch with the frame. Any significant blow from the rear will result in breaking your spine. That's not safe. I believe you have to increase the distance between the seat and the frame behind it and also put a buffer there.
Now is the time to get it right.
Tony I weld everyday for caterpillar I do field work on-site repairs over head weld just plain sucks try dual shield spray over head it really sucks
Where the back of the seat is so close to or touching the frame rail "point". You did round it a little. Not good enough to keep from possibly feeling it on your back on acceleration or wheelies (: , That seat back WILL flex. I suggest cutting the corner out of the frame "point". Just the top and front of the rail. Then weld in a short piece of that 1" tube to make more of a rounded tip/point..... and at the same tme maintain structural by using the short piece of tube for a "new frame corner". I think you will be surprised at the clearance it will create. Anyway draw it up on the bench top and see. A larger than 1" tube would be even better, you can cut back the point further. If a piece of roll cage tube will fit, that is the Coupe De Grass. I know you will say yo can't weld all around the tube, it will be trapped inside. So let it be cradled and stick out both sides and weld. The above may spark a better idea than mine. Kudos on your progress and thanks for the videos.
I'm curious if the use of round tube on the rocker bar is due to some compliance issue. Seems like using the rectangular tube would have given you the space to weld the two cross bars in high at the front and low at the rear to get the angle you were chasing.
Yes it would have but the rocker bar is part of the roll cage and where it's tight to rocker the tubing gives a easier access to welding on the body plates later on.
Nice work.
I'd like to know how much the car weighs once it's all done.
The overall weight and also front end weight and rear end weight.
👍
🇨🇦
I'll be finding all that out