DIY Low Cost Compressed Air Dryer Water Separator Overview
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Uploading this a few months after originally recording since I've confirmed that it's been working great without any issues. I cost me ~$150 to assemble what you see in the video, took a day to put together.
Note that I am using this mostly for water separation from my small oil-free compressor. If you're a painter, high CFM, etc. the system will have to be adjusted accordingly like I mentioned in the video and may begin to seem like a less attractive option vs buying a commercial solution.
Potential upgrade options: desiccant stage after the air filter followed by another air filter (for desiccant particles), air filters with automatic drain, AC fan attached to the radiator that's wired to the compressor's switch (turns on with the motor), thermoelectric chiller stage to further assist with water condensation and separation, in-out moisture sensors (cool but I only found expensive options which are far outside the intention of this setup), DIY regenerative desiccant system (doesn't look that difficult tbh hmu if someone's interested to help me with this idea), etc.
Thanks again. After watching a ‘million’ ideas on after coolers, I ended up building one similar to yours. I got the same Derale 15300 unit, I did a drop down with a ball-cock drain after the Derale, and then through a filter / water separator / air regulator. I also have a small fan that I incorporated to blow across the ‘rad.’ Boom.
I thank you for your information on the derail oil cooler unit. Fantastic.
I would argue that the cooler placement should be between the air compressor pump and storage tank. You want to store dry air. I'd also install a fan on the aftercooler. It could very wired so that the fan only runs when the compressor runs.
Agreed. Also, I’d suggest a tee at the end of the coil with the outlet going vertical to the water separator and the downward going to a drip drum to catch water so the separator isn’t mechanically handling all of the moisture from the system.
the first cooler video I watched the guy mounted the radiator to the fan shroud so that when the pulley spun it acted as ai fan to pull air across the coils but he had a large compressor
This seems more practical than putting it between the motor and the tank. Who cares if moisture gets in the tank? Get an auto drain and keep it drained. People go to a lot of added troubled mounting these things to their compressors, between the motor and the tank.
There is a very good reason to have it between the compressor and the tank. Air holds a lot more moisture when hot so when you run it through a cooler even at room temp, it cools it down a lot and it’s very easy to get the air below dew point and get the moisture out.
But once it hits the tank and cools down you have to get it even cooler ie a refrigerated drier to get the moisture out.
That’s why they put them between the tank and the compressor.
Nice setup. I'd add a fan to the radiator and a T between the radiator and the air dryer with a valve in order to minimize the work load on the air dryer so that you can empty water before it gets to the dryer. Other than that it's a really nice looking setup!
Your entire system will work better if you cool the air leaving your compressor before entering your tank and collect any water prior to entering your tank. Also, heat transfer works better with a fan to disperse the collected heat in your heat exchanger. Not trying to be critical, but I think it could work better to prolong the life of the entire system.
This setup would work good also if you have more than one compressor. But you would still have to drain your tanks on the compressor.
Neatness counts, look good, & one good design.
Thanks a lot Nikita!. I also got the same spindle recently and was looking at s similiar solution, instead of the $1000+ dryer units. Will start ordering the parts. :)
The cooler needs to be between the compressor and the tank.
It cools the air and allows the water to fall out and never enters the tank.
By that time it enters the tank and cools down it’s harder to get the water out. You have to cool it much colder.
Wrong radiator type. Please enlighten me if I’m wrong but the radiator you are recommending (which I ordered and just received) is designed in such a way that any water that collects in the radiator is forced to flow uphill. If you look closely and follow the path from the inlet to the output, every other rung redirects the flow back uphill as it transitions from the front part of the radiator to the back part of the radiator. This particular radiator has a front and back almost like two radiators sandwiched together. With this radiator I think you will get water trapped at every other rung. Basically the water isn’t allowed to passively run downhill and I don’t think the airflow is going to consistently flush it all out. I’m going to return mine and find a single layer radiator if that exists.
You're probably better off making your own with copper pipe. Even without the radiator fins, a serpentine copper pipe set-up gets the job done.
I was scrolling through the comments looking for this catch. Im surprised how few people notice this problem. It's too bad metal isn't transparent. I've even found one video of a similar system without a water separator at the bottom exhaust. The idea was to remove moisture merely by cooling the hot air down before it got to the tank. Lavoisier's grave is a rotisserie.
The video was well made and the setup looks very clean. My only complaint is that you did not list the parts and numbers and where you found them here in the comments, that would've been nice so I don't have to search all over for them.
Hi, really enjoyed your video! Would it be possible to get a list of links to all the parts you discussed in this video?
Great idea, well done, very neat job too. Can you please give us some details on how you made the inlet and outlet tubes connections so you could plug the air hoses in?
Nice job! Have you considered putting the heat exchanger between the compressor pump head and the storage tank? I'd like to do that to cut down on water collecting in the tank, and corroding it, shortening its life. My last compressor tank failed from internal corrosion.
My 1st thought too
I did that to mine put the rad before the tank
doesnt the air create the moisture when it goes from the hot compressor motor to the tank being the tank is room temp and the motor gets the air over 200+ degrees..... I always thought it should be betweem motor and compressor tank.
A fan would help as well. Coolers work with the principle of air flow across the fins. Maybe very low voltage computer fans could work because of the very low amp draw. Nice looking so far.
I don't really see how this would work. The moisture in the air will go through the radiator and into the trap at the end.
Just condensed it to be caught more easily?
Yes essentially that’s all it’s doing, hot air = steam. Cool air condenses and water can be caught by a trap/desiccant filter.
Not the best solution but will definitely help a lot
Every one of those loops is a condensation trap, I bet it gurgles and restricts flow like crazy.
Much volume drop? 11, 180 degree turns.
Can you link something similar to the corner bracket to mount the cooler
Do you keep a fan blowing at the radiator the whole time?
Good but you didn’t say what’s the max operating pressure for this system.
Nice set up
Hey, I think your's is a very elegant solution, very nice. Most of the people build systems like this between the cylinder and the tank. Your aftercooler is built after the tank, right?
Wow you did not list the items or where one can obtain them.......I know about the cooler and dryers but where did you get that diffuser multi port output ?
That is a transmission cooler $30 Amazon
Nice work but one little thing! You loose a lot of heat just after the regulator as the air expands with a reduction in pressure so your regulator needs to be turned around so it’s upstream of the trap.
Did anyone ask if this radiator is in line between the compressor and the tank?
there is a reason for the other style of radiator which i can tell is going to be an issue for you. the reason all the tubes go through is so that any moisture will drain down to the bottom and into the seperator. the way yours is set up water will pool in each of those horizontal sections and wont be removed from the system. its a nice build though just change that one part
I was noticing this too. Do you have a recommended radiator without the loops that trap moisture?
You don't have a fan blow against it. Is that still effective.
I do now but just like baseboard heating the radiator did a good job of thermal transfer without a fan.
Do you not need a fan behind the cooler?
Can you measure the temperature drop? Some people are saying this particular configuration is not very effective.
What about a junk yard condenser
It would be really helpful if you added details in your description about what exact compressor (and it's capability) you are using this with. Everyone's compressor will obviously be different. For example I have an old Saylor-Beall 705 with a 120 gallon tank. My motor is 5hp and pump output is high with a 3/4" tube out of the pump. I've been on the fence about buying one of these Derale units because I feel like the 1/2" or 3/8" lines is going to make my pump and motor work too hard. But unfortunately if I build a copper pipe system of ~15 pipes at 36" each it will cost me around $450 with all the copper, fittings, hoses, etc. If I could get more concrete data on how or why this would be fine for a large pump I'd obviously do it instead.
I really should just make a follow up video about this setup and an update on how it’s changed. I left far too many details up to “common sense” in hindsight for the sake of keeping the video brief.
Nice setup sir! Can you please tell me what type of hose is the transparent one? Can it handle high presure? Thanks!
I don't know why but when I saw this I was like... "yeesh, that's gonna blow up" but then I remembered that automatic transmission coolers similar to this type often have rating up to like 300 psi.
just the question I was going to ask
Minimum testing psi is going to be 150% over the max rated output, for example, a max rated compressor of 150psi will test it’s tank at at least 225psi, but most tests run higher for the absolute maximum pressure. Therefore, a rated unit of 300psi operating should still be operated around it’s nominal limits for continuous use.
do you have part numbers for the connectors??
Did anyone ever use refrigeration copper y bends instead of 90s and tees to make a compressor air dryer just wondering if it would work
Can you show a before/after air temperature and humidity levels?
X2
Temps
Is this for painting
I don't get why you have clear thinwall plastic tubing on the INPUT side of the cooler(?)
The temp going in can reach near 300°F on some compressors.
It's a small 1.2HP compressor and this is plumbed in after the aluminum air tank so for me it's ok.
I like the way you have your system setup. I think I wanna do the same thing to my compressor. Question, how much air pressure can that radiator handle?
250 psi working pressure, 300 burst
@@thayerhills Thank you for the reply and the info buddy.
Hi, what material are you using for the white surface?
Whats your cfm
So it is safe using plastic pneumatic tube between pump and radiator? I was hesitating because the hot and compressed air softens the plastic tube and eventually blow it.
If your compressor’s output is hot then PU tubing is not for you
Where is the radiator fan??? It’s not doing anything without a fan or some type of cooling it with a radiator that small!!!!
X2
just use a house fan and point to it. :D
Stop thinking about radiation, and start thinking condensing.
Same as an alcohol still. Now yes they do use the water cooling to assist the condensation in the tubing. However that’s because that stuff is over 215deg F and it’s literally steam at that temperature.
Your air cooled compressor would definitely self destruct before the lines could ever possibly be at 210deg.
Like I said, not radiator but condenser.
I agree with Hippie. The poster is making a water separator not an aftercooler. However I think the flow through the cooler might work better reversed so that the water would have to resist climbing upward thus slowing it and allowing further condensation.
Great job.. been looking at using mini fridge coil at 40-60psi. and pump For air brush. But having difficulty finding a 40-60psi switch for 120v. Otherwise it should work.
Slick set-up. Question for you. What did you call the block where the air hose plugs into.? and where can I get one...? I gonna copy this. Very clean and economical
Manifold
Just a suggestion... Is it not better to put a T Coupling between the water separator and the consensor? When you open the valve at bottom the water gets out. Now you are forsing the water into the water separator. Water separator is supposed to filter the air only. Thanks Reza
I was thinking the same thing
Yeah however the tee and ball valve should be at the bottom.
And the filter should be at the top. Drained often so it doesn’t become a water pipe.
Or if you don’t want to keep going back and forth all day opening the valve. You could just install a straight going downward to allow the water a place to collect.
Where did you buy your fittings - specifically the 1/2” AN to 1/2” NPT. Also, what is that 90 and clear tubing - how is it handling the temperature from compressor.
Check on amazon 8AN to 1/2 NPT
Hi Nikita- I am close to putting mine together and was wondering about the inlet temperature you have on the radiator. I have a hose that is rated to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. I had seen modification with after coolers (compressor-to-tank radiator) reaching temperatures near 200 degrees. Would the inlet in your configuration get that hot? Just wanted to make sure I have a properly-rated hose. Thank you.
I haven't measured it, I have the air going to this system from my compressor's normal air output (after the tank and regulator) so I'd expect it to be no different than any other hose coming off those outputs as far as what's okay to use. I've noticed the rad can actually warm up a bit the few times I've used a lot of air, I'm thinking of adding an AC voltage fan and wiring it to the compressor's switch so it turns on with the compressor's motor.
@@NikitaLab Thanks for the response. I contemplated adding an AC fan but didn't think it will help much. It would definitely be important for an after cooler (compressor-to-tank condenser).
Your videos and work is very interesting and show a great deal of planning as well as attention to detail. I hope you keep posting and that you get more subscribers. I am learning a lot from the contents on your channel. All the best.
Hi Nikita - nice and tidy. love it. I want to make one just like it. I have a question. I assume that the clear tubing going to the radiator is coming from the compressor head, and that the black rubber hose coming off the manifold block is going back to the compressor tank. Is that right?
No Henry, the clear tube is coming from the compressor's air tank, and the manifold black hose is going to another tank that acts as additional volume. What you're describing is a compressor aftercooler which is nice but not ideal for me and my small, tightly integrated compressor. I'd use copper tube if I wanted the radiator to come after the compressor head.
@@NikitaLab Thanks Nikita, that makes sense.
Where is the condensate drain?
The air filter has a condensate drain and functionally acts as a water trap.
Hi I just bought one of these. What did you use for fittings in the ends of radiator? I want to hook it up to air hose fittings. Thanks for sharing, Mike
He tells you in the video. Start around 2:50. It's quick!
AN to npt fittngs
Anybody provide air dryer .
Peltier module .
Like same
Is the manifold made or store bought? if bought can you link it, thanks
He has a CNC, I bet he made it himself from a drilled and tapped chunk of aluminum.
Hint: Use air compressor hose not plastic tubing.
Would you please post a link to purchase the AN8-1/2" NPT fittings?
www.ebay.com/itm/254314633305
@@NikitaLab Thank you very much. You made a great video and an excellent setup for your compressor. I have already ordered parts to do a similar setup.
I see you have plastic tubing going from the compressor output to the radiator inlet. How is that surviving the high temperatures of air that's coming out of the compressor?
Compressor is in the garage now, air goes from compressor regulated output to a small manifold before reaching the tubing and running about 10’ through the clear tubing. A lot of people seem to want to mount these as a pump aftercoolers or their demands are greater than mine, in which case yeah the PU tubing is a bad idea.
@@NikitaLab Sounds good and thanks for the quick reply! This setup is definitely the cleanest i have seen on YT. I would only add on a fan.
I am thinking about the route from compressor outlet to rad inlet and i think ill make it in copper with compression fittings or soldered together.
Sounds good and I have added a fan, I should make a follow up video.
@@NikitaLab Please do! I would love to see it in more detail
nice great info.
This radiator has a serious problem. Have you figured it out yet?
Itll rust out in a year or two, no?
It's brass and copper I think so it shouldn't
@@NikitaLab i just built a water trap for mine, i may try this too. Has its worked pretty good??
this is not a dryer, but an aftercooler
Why on earth would you mount the radiator onto a flat surface like that? The radiator depends on air flowing through it... That setup has very minimal airflow
It's got about an inch and a half behind it, and now has a fan (mostly because I had a suitable one laying around). Even without the fan I found that most of the water was condensating inside of it, it has these embossed turbulators inside that help mix the flow but also lets the water pool inside. It's a water separator and gives me air dry enough for my requirements. I might post a follow up with some IR camera footage to show how little the radiator actually heats up when I'm using the system, people greatly overestimate it judging from what I've seen of other people's builds. Remember we're not cooling down hot transmission fluid here, just some warm air and water vapor from a small compressor so the thermal capacity of the radiator and the theoretical airflow from convection should and in my experience was enough, but like in the video and description I mention suggestions to enhance and the limitations of a system like this.
For very little a 12v radiator fan that comes on with the compressor and for goodness sake place a T just after the radiator and before the air water separator and dump all that water in the drain tube before getting to the air/water (water still saturated in the compressed air not liquid water do your homework) as separator is not designed to handle it and when you can drain 90+ % off before it gets there! Needs more educated thought all you have is well nothing! Why use a radiator when you don’t do anything with the condensed water first right now it’s almost a total waste. You change the state of the water saturated in the hot compressed air then you don’t do any thing with it. You gotta drain in off!
Worked fine lol but yeah the video is a bit outdated. Air filter isn't a replacement for a water trap so I added one, and radiator now has a fan on it.
The problems with your setup is (a) the condenser loops are too small/short for compressed air use, the tubes in the condenser are too narrow, and you have the condenser loops going horizontal. A much better design (yes, more money, but still under $300) is to make your own "condenser" with a series of loops in either black iron 1/2" steel pipe or 1/2" copper tubing (copper, being more expensive, of course). There are various guys on youtube who have done this design. If you paint or do anything where your compressed air must be absolutely dry, your setup will not dry the air nearly enough.
You want each run to be 10 feet and you want at least five 10' vertical runs of tube before connecting to any air filters or tools. You also need ball valve drains on each end of the tube to drain out the moisture (this can be done automatically with an electronic drain or manually). You want the tubes to be vertical with water drains on the bottom so that gravity can settle the moisture to the bottom of each tube.
I am sorry but all I see is wasted time and money. As fast as air is rushing through that so called cooler it isn’t doing shit. I would be willing to bet the air going is, is exactly the same as the air coming out.
Worst audio I have ever heard. Now my tinnitus is killing me.
Good, mine is too
you need a better microphone
I could hear him clearly.... maybe clean ya ears out 😂😂😂