Thank you, been seeing NA and NB video as that discuss Allen wrench, but great to see the rear demonstration as well as front and NC is obviously different. Bleeding brakes demonstration and explanation of specific mm sockets also greatly appreciated. Thank you
Speed bleeders are your friend. 1 person and speed bleeders is pretty good. 2 people and speed bleeders allows you to tend to the master cylinder fluid level while your assistant pumps the brakes. Thanks for the video.
Hey Dan, thx for the vid. Question, does the brake fluid reservoir empty out while you remove the lines? How did you stop that, or don't, and just drain and doing full flush at that point?
Hi Joe, generally speaking, the leak-by past the master cylinder is small because it requires brake pedal movement to "pump" fluid past it. There is more of a drip leak-by so after each SST brake line change just quickly check the level in the reservoir and don't actuate the brake pedal until you are ready to fully bleed the system. It's not a disaster if the reservoir empties, but it's best not to allow this for ease of bleeding the system. Have an ample amount of brake fluid on hand and protect your painted surfaces from the brake fluid. Good Luck!
Hi Dan, do you know if I absolutely need that clamp tool to set the brake pad into the caliper? I'm nervous about doing it as there was no part in the video for it. Not confident in that step. Thanks for the vid.
For the rear you're going to need to push that caliper piston back, it actually "screws" in so you have to be aware of that. Look at some VW Golf brake videos, I believe the rears are similar. For the front you don't need a C-clamp, as it does make it easier. Some people leave the old brake pads in place then spread the pistons with two large screwdrivers, it ruins the pads and that's why you use the old ones. Then you can swap the pads. If you are uncomfortable working on brakes, you should take it to your mechanic, this is an area you don't want to mess up. Good Luck
Hey Dan. Nice video. Not sure if you're still seeing these comments, but had a question. I just finish the rear replacements on my 2007. I haven't found a good procedure on adjusting the parking break. Do you have a procedure for that?
I don't have the car anymore, but as I recall, there's an adjustment under the brake handle that you can access from underneath. You essentially want to shorten that cable. Make sure you drive your car around and break-in your new brake pads before you adjust the parking brake cable.
Thanks for the video. I'd get a lot of satisfaction from doing jobs like this myself but I don't have the jacks or ramp to lift the car up, so I'll give it to my mechanic to do. If I were doing it, while the car is in the air, i'd also service the calipers, clean everything I can get to, change the bushes and the ARBs, underseal the whole thing..... alas this is not to be.
My rear passenger brakes started to make a grinding noise after i changed the pads. Do u think it might be the little clips and holds the pads in place? Or maybe i didnt put it back correctly. The rotors are still smooth and thick
+ahdaedae Check to see if you inserted the pads (or one of them) in backwards, I have heard of this happening and you will have ineffective brakingand hear a grinding noise. Look at both side of the rotor and you will see maybe where the scraping or grinding is coming from, often this could be the inside or just quickly take off the caliper and check. Good Luck
Hi Dan, I was trying to replace the rear brake pads this afternoon, after removing the two 12mm bolts on the caliper, I still couldn't remove it. The caliper is free to rotate, with the piston as the center, and there is some room for the caliper to slide inwards(towards the center the rotor) but stucks when I tried to pull it out. Do you have any idea what's causing the problem?
1) make sure there is no pressure being applied within the brake line. I believe you meant the rotor is free to rotate, if that's the case, there is no pressure in the brake line. 2) Remember that one of the pistons has a slot that is oriented with a tab on the backside of one of the pads (the inboard pad.) . You may need to move the caliper back and forth to clear it. If your rear rotors are really warn (and have a lip) then you'll need to go to this next move. 3) Last resort, remove the entire bracket that holds the caliper- - from the hub assembly (two bolts) and remove the assembly and then break it down. Good Luck!
Thank you, been seeing NA and NB video as that discuss Allen wrench, but great to see the rear demonstration as well as front and NC is obviously different. Bleeding brakes demonstration and explanation of specific mm sockets also greatly appreciated. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Well structured and intelligently presented. Thank you!
Hope it goes well, save $$
Most of your demo was great, you should show more like how to retract the rear caliper.
Sorry, that car is long gone, but there are other sources that show that procedure in detail.
Boom it's done :::: we didn't even get to see how ta do it 😢
Speed bleeders are your friend. 1 person and speed bleeders is pretty good. 2 people and speed bleeders allows you to tend to the master cylinder fluid level while your assistant pumps the brakes. Thanks for the video.
Hey Dan, thx for the vid. Question, does the brake fluid reservoir empty out while you remove the lines? How did you stop that, or don't, and just drain and doing full flush at that point?
Hi Joe, generally speaking, the leak-by past the master cylinder is small because it requires brake pedal movement to "pump" fluid past it. There is more of a drip leak-by so after each SST brake line change just quickly check the level in the reservoir and don't actuate the brake pedal until you are ready to fully bleed the system. It's not a disaster if the reservoir empties, but it's best not to allow this for ease of bleeding the system. Have an ample amount of brake fluid on hand and protect your painted surfaces from the brake fluid. Good Luck!
@@SirFixAlotAutos thanks so much brother man, easy peasy 👍😎.
Nice work :-) thank you for the tips and suggestions.I am about to do the same myself on my NC MX-5. I hope it'll go well.
Good Luck!
Worked for me. Thank you
Glad it worked out and you saved some $$
Hi Dan, do you know if I absolutely need that clamp tool to set the brake pad into the caliper? I'm nervous about doing it as there was no part in the video for it. Not confident in that step. Thanks for the vid.
Also, Dan, after bleeding the brakes did you add any of that type 200 for 4 or is that not necessary? Thanks.
For the rear you're going to need to push that caliper piston back, it actually "screws" in so you have to be aware of that. Look at some VW Golf brake videos, I believe the rears are similar. For the front you don't need a C-clamp, as it does make it easier. Some people leave the old brake pads in place then spread the pistons with two large screwdrivers, it ruins the pads and that's why you use the old ones. Then you can swap the pads. If you are uncomfortable working on brakes, you should take it to your mechanic, this is an area you don't want to mess up. Good Luck
Hey Dan. Nice video. Not sure if you're still seeing these comments, but had a question. I just finish the rear replacements on my 2007. I haven't found a good procedure on adjusting the parking break. Do you have a procedure for that?
I don't have the car anymore, but as I recall, there's an adjustment under the brake handle that you can access from underneath. You essentially want to shorten that cable. Make sure you drive your car around and break-in your new brake pads before you adjust the parking brake cable.
@@SirFixAlotAutos Great. Thanks Dan!
Thanks for the video. I'd get a lot of satisfaction from doing jobs like this myself but I don't have the jacks or ramp to lift the car up, so I'll give it to my mechanic to do. If I were doing it, while the car is in the air, i'd also service the calipers, clean everything I can get to, change the bushes and the ARBs, underseal the whole thing..... alas this is not to be.
My rear passenger brakes started to make a grinding noise after i changed the pads. Do u think it might be the little clips and holds the pads in place? Or maybe i didnt put it back correctly. The rotors are still smooth and thick
+ahdaedae Check to see if you inserted the pads (or one of them) in backwards, I have heard of this happening and you will have ineffective brakingand hear a grinding noise. Look at both side of the rotor and you will see maybe where the scraping or grinding is coming from, often this could be the inside or just quickly take off the caliper and check. Good Luck
Hi Dan, I was trying to replace the rear brake pads this afternoon, after removing the two 12mm bolts on the caliper, I still couldn't remove it. The caliper is free to rotate, with the piston as the center, and there is some room for the caliper to slide inwards(towards the center the rotor) but stucks when I tried to pull it out. Do you have any idea what's causing the problem?
1) make sure there is no pressure being applied within the brake line. I believe you meant the rotor is free to rotate, if that's the case, there is no pressure in the brake line. 2) Remember that one of the pistons has a slot that is oriented with a tab on the backside of one of the pads (the inboard pad.) . You may need to move the caliper back and forth to clear it. If your rear rotors are really warn (and have a lip) then you'll need to go to this next move. 3) Last resort, remove the entire bracket that holds the caliper- - from the hub assembly (two bolts) and remove the assembly and then break it down. Good Luck!