Tinny Mods - DIY wiring and Bilge Pump Installation - Boat Fit out Part 2
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Snag'd Ep. 26. Boat Fit out - 2
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The links below should still work and it will give you an idea of price and where to buy the equipment. I am a man who likes a good price so I always go looking for the best deal. Hope you got something out of this video.
Bilge pump - www.whitworths...
Bilge pump hose 20mm - www.whitworths...
Bilge outlet - www.whitworths...
Float valve switch - www.whitworths...
Wiring for house electrical 4mm (used this for all electrical goods) - www.whitworths...
Wiring for battery 6mm (need for big runs to counter voltage drop) - www.whitworths...
10. Waterproof joiners - www.whitworths...
You’ll need stainless steel clamps for the bilge pump hose, silicone to make it all watertight near the holes you drill, stick on wire organises to keep all the wiring neat and terminals for the battery to clamp onto the battery.
Could've sworn you already did this. Nice soldering iron👍
The first video was the building of the switch bank. This is the first video of installing bilge pump and wiring. I've got part 3 coming soon as well.
@@snagdfishing ah gotcha. Clean setup and wiring, looks good
@@HoovyPresentations yeah that's it!
Good vid boss, Nice and clean install 😁🍻
Thank you ma man. Appreciate the support.
Hey mate, just asking about wiring. First little bit is an overview of my plan.
I’m running dual (100ah) batteries. 40yam elec start. I’ll be running a battery switch (off, batt 1, batt 2, both). Both batteries will be located at the bow (weight reasons). So positive from the motor will run to the common output on the switch using 4awg/b&s. The negative will run and join battery 1 and battery 2. This will mean the batteries are wired in parallel - so if I need to I can use both for starting the motor. Continuing, from battery 1 (house) the positive will feed to “battery 1” on the battery switch. Same will happen with battery 2 (start battery) except will go to the allocation for “battery 2” on the battery switch.
So now all batteries are connected and so too the motor, I need to install my accessories and wire them up. How do I do that? The switch panel will obviously be located at the rear where I’m sitting (noting the batteries are up the front). So, I’ve got an 8 gang switch panel with a cig plug, usb charger, 12v outlet and a voltmeter. The 8 gang will consist of live well, sounder, nav lights, anchor light, transom light, deck light, gunnel light and vhf. The bilge will be wired seperate into its own switch (due to running an automatic rule lopro). The positives from the switch panel all get grouped into the one collection and soldered/heat shrink - is that right??? Then you have all your loads from the accessories coming in and they attach to the switch panel lugs???? The negatives from the accessories are grouped together too and soldered/heat shrink??? So then, the negatives coming off the switch panel already are wired to the battery directly (house batt 1)??? Do I then run another positive wire from the switch panel positives that are grouped together into the battery switch (batt 1 lug on switch) to give the whole thing power??? That way no loads/positives are directly attached to the battery. They run through the battery switch so then if I turn the switch to “off” it stops all power running.
The bilge will be the only thing hard wired to a battery so that it is never technically off. It’s amp draw is very minimal (2amp I believe) and says none at all when not in use.
Hope you can help. I hope it makes sense aha. If not thanks anyway.
what was the appeal of fusing all the cables together before the switchboard instead of using a bus bar
I'd say I didnt have much room in the waterproof switch bank for the bus bar. Thats a good idea tho!
Is this an older video that you have had saved? I noticed that u still have the 30hp on the boat
Great video by the way I actually learned a lot and will definitely use it in the future
@@blakepaulger3042 thanks for the message. Yes it is older footage from when I set up the boat. All the wiring is still the same, except I've upgraded to 40hp 👌👌
Hey mate, did you fuse your connections to prevent wiring shorts/breakage?
At the switch behind the grey cover are fuses. I run the recommended fuses for my electronics. So everything is protected. I also have an inline fuse from my battery that will also prevent shorts and breakage.
does that float switch allow the bilge to work automatically, even if the bilge is in the off position on the switch panel... in the process of wiring up my tinny at the moment. whitworths has an auto lopro bilge that you dont need a float for, it is more exxy than the bilge and float switch - so if i can go a bilge and float switch for cheaper id prefer that... just needing to know about the automatic stuff
cheers
The float valve switch activates the bilge pump independently from the switch at the switch bank. So if water came in, my float valve switch will automatically turn the bilge pump on, even if I have the switch in the off position.
I saved a lot of money buying them separate. I installed the bilge with the inbuilt switch on my old boat and I much prefer this new one I've got in my boat now. The wiring is quite simple, happy to help if you've got questions.
Snagd Fishing cheers mate, how big is ya bilge. I was looking at 1100gph because of offshore use
Any suggestions on how to mount it to the hull? I saw you had a piece of ally welded in there, but was that already in the boat or did you put that in? And if u put it in how far up does that plate sit off the hull - how high does the water then need to be before the float realises water is in the boat. ?
@@bouttimefishingadventures the plate sits about 1cm off the bottom of the hull. You could get a plate welded or pop rivet an aly 'L' bracket onto the bottom rib of the boat. So effectively you're making your own platform with aly L bracket and pop rivet It in.
Snagd Fishing too easy - was thinking that.
Where your fuse?
The fuse is at the switch panel and also one at the battery.
1. It's DC wiring no such thing as "active" or "neutral", 2 you should not promote soldering wires like this, very poor practice, solder iron should be used and joins no wider the standard width of electrical tape. Spend the extra coin and Get glue infused (black and red) heat shrink, so water can not get it
10 points!!! for using electrical box and screen on bilge pump.
Get advice from a good auto electrician next time so you can promote good practice.