thank you, now I can easily know my resistors. and calibration is very easy thank you for the video, I can now move on with my fresh knowledge and my project. enjoy your day!
I'm late to the party here, but this was a great walkthrough of what this tester can do. I ordered mine based on seeing it in action, and just got it today. Sure enough, it works exactly as you showed. One suggestion: it may be worth mentioning that if you are going to use the test clips it comes with, you should do the calibration with those attached and shorted together, and then keep them plugged in and separate the clips for the isolate step in the calibration. That way it takes into account the resistance of the leads.
Thank you for posting this. I received my TC1 yesterday but it comes with no instructions whatsoever. I had no idea how the various pins are wired. And especially no idea about the self-test procedure. I'll have to try the "zener area" as well to see how that goes. Anyway, handy little device but they make using it so mysterious. I guess that in the 2020's CZcams is the new user manual. 🙂
Nice video and explanation But why do u keep flipping that lever which is not only noisy but you would damage the unit , instead hold it and release it gently
These are sold with probes also, and you definitely can test all components in circuit so long as there is no mains power on the device you're testing.
@@wefukthenwo You also have to deplete the capacitors before testing. Any voltage above 4.5V on a test input pin can damage the tester. However, I suspect in-circuit testing will produce numerous "No, Unknown, or Damaged Part" readouts.
I like the review video, thanks. But you skipped the IR port for reading remote control codes. Does your work? I have this same unit but it won't read a Samsung or Sony remote. Can anyone out there reading this comment on how their unit's IR port works?
Same as the other discrete components provided...to show user the tester works on various parts, to help neophyte users gain some experience on using the ZIF socket (Zero Insertion Force).
*IMPORTANT NOTE* ALWAYS deplete any capacitor before inserting into the tester. A charged capacitor can damage the tester (this is because the specified maximum input voltage on any test port pin is < 4.5V). *POSSIBLE Longer Battery Storage Life* The instructions for the TC-1 (confirmed version) tester I bought about 3 years ago instructs that to turn it "off", one should press and hold the button for 2 or more seconds. Perhaps some people see shorter battery use between charges because they instead simply let the TC-1 "timeout". I don't KNOW if this actually makes a difference because I can charge the TC1 I bought and after a year of "sitting on the shelf" the Li-Ion cell still shows a charge of about 3.6V...still tests components accurately...and I do NOT use the 2 second "off" method. *Li-Ion Cell Aging* After about 3 years of use, the original Li-Ion cell charges to a maximum of ~4.0V using a 5V charging source (the maximum input allowed is 6.0V). *Change 3.7V Li-Ion Cell to Increase TC-1 Usage Time Between Charges* The spec sheet for the TC-1 I have also claims the 3.7V Li-Ion cell is 350mAh, but the actual physical size compared to available cells, suggests it MAY be closer to 500mAh. I've also noted that if I want to increase the TC-1's Ah capacity I can physically fit a 3.7V 600mAh cell in its place, and I can scavenge 2x 600mAh cells from some rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries I have on hand.
We can design a similar device for transformers. I do not know the designer of TC1 tester. If I new the name I would design the analog portion of transformer tester, and other people could do the digital part.
Thank you, I ordered one of those and now I know what to expect. Really helpful!
Thank you!
This is what I've needed for years.The IR reader works perfectly as well.
thank you, now I can easily know my resistors. and calibration is very easy thank you for the video, I can now move on with my fresh knowledge and my project. enjoy your day!
Thank you!
Thanks for showing this!!
I'm late to the party here, but this was a great walkthrough of what this tester can do. I ordered mine based on seeing it in action, and just got it today. Sure enough, it works exactly as you showed.
One suggestion: it may be worth mentioning that if you are going to use the test clips it comes with, you should do the calibration with those attached and shorted together, and then keep them plugged in and separate the clips for the isolate step in the calibration. That way it takes into account the resistance of the leads.
Thanks for the suggestions 👍
Good video. My tester arrived today. I like it. If you are aware of its limitations, it is an excellent tool.
Exactly. You put it well!
Cool man,thanks.
Quisiera saber ¿cuál de las dos referencias es más completa TC-1 Vs TC-7?.
EN ESPERA DE SUS COMENTARIOS.
GRACIAS.
Excelente!
Obrigado.
De: Brasil.
Thank u sir
Good tiching karte hai 👌👍👌👌👌👍👌👌👌👍👌
7:12 7302pF is NOT 4,7 nF !
Thank you. Cringed hard.
I agree, time to test that capacitor with a real LCR meter. Is the capacitor off, or the tester?
Ya. How do you test a battery 0.1 to 4,5 V😕
Thank you for posting this. I received my TC1 yesterday but it comes with no instructions whatsoever. I had no idea how the various pins are wired. And especially no idea about the self-test procedure. I'll have to try the "zener area" as well to see how that goes. Anyway, handy little device but they make using it so mysterious. I guess that in the 2020's CZcams is the new user manual. 🙂
Glad it helped! Thanks!
I love the colored board images. It seems like basicallY the same thing as the ebay DIY kit that dont have a case and takes a 9v battery.
great, but mine wont go into self test.. why?
Double check that you are shorting three different ports i.e 1,2,3 and hit start when they are short-circuited.
Me interesa
Cuánto para la cdmx
Nice video and explanation
But why do u keep flipping that lever which is not only noisy but you would damage the unit , instead hold it and release it gently
Is it possible to do on board measurements for capacitors?
Certainly not, Testing voltage is simply too high.
These are sold with probes also, and you definitely can test all components in circuit so long as there is no mains power on the device you're testing.
@@wefukthenwo You also have to deplete the capacitors before testing. Any voltage above 4.5V on a test input pin can damage the tester.
However, I suspect in-circuit testing will produce numerous
"No, Unknown, or Damaged Part" readouts.
Have you tried to install some alternative opensource firmware to the device?
I like the review video, thanks. But you skipped the IR port for reading remote control codes. Does your work? I have this same unit but it won't read a Samsung or Sony remote.
Can anyone out there reading this comment on how their unit's IR port works?
only displays in hitachi codes. trying to find a way to Cross reference
what is the purpose of the included electrolytic
Same as the other discrete components provided...to show user the tester works on various parts, to help neophyte users gain some experience on using the ZIF socket (Zero Insertion Force).
Now explain what is the IR port on the device for. 🤔😕
point a remote control at it and it'll display the code
@@TheSnuffda Yeah I've gotten this advice on other videos too. Thanks ! 😏👍
What does the Calibration do, and what does it Calibrate?
Are you joking?
@@allancopland1768 You Obviously don’t know because I don’t know
*IMPORTANT NOTE*
ALWAYS deplete any capacitor before inserting into the tester. A charged capacitor can damage the tester (this is because the specified maximum input voltage on any test port pin is < 4.5V).
*POSSIBLE Longer Battery Storage Life*
The instructions for the TC-1 (confirmed version) tester I bought about 3 years ago instructs that to turn it "off", one should press and hold the button for 2 or more seconds.
Perhaps some people see shorter battery use between charges because they instead simply let the TC-1 "timeout". I don't KNOW if this actually makes a difference because I can charge the TC1 I bought and after a year of "sitting on the shelf" the Li-Ion cell still shows a charge of about 3.6V...still tests components accurately...and I do NOT use the 2 second "off" method.
*Li-Ion Cell Aging*
After about 3 years of use, the original Li-Ion cell charges to a maximum of ~4.0V using a 5V charging source (the maximum input allowed is 6.0V).
*Change 3.7V Li-Ion Cell to Increase TC-1 Usage Time Between Charges*
The spec sheet for the TC-1 I have also claims the 3.7V Li-Ion cell is 350mAh, but the actual physical size compared to available cells, suggests it MAY be closer to 500mAh.
I've also noted that if I want to increase the TC-1's Ah capacity I can physically fit a 3.7V 600mAh cell in its place, and I can scavenge 2x 600mAh cells from some rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries I have on hand.
We can design a similar device for transformers. I do not know the designer of TC1 tester. If I new the name I would design the analog portion of transformer tester, and other people could do the digital part.
how do i test a led...?
stick it in two slots push test
What is meaning Of KAA.?
I believe k is kathode and a is anode and that's used for testing diodes.
7:11 this doesnt make sense, it shows the wrong value.