Seeding A Yard With My Kubota L3560 And Woods Seeder - #65
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- čas přidán 13. 11. 2021
- In this video I show you how I seed a yard as well as test out a new yard drag that I built. I've seeded quite a few yards with my Kubota L3560 and Woods STR72-2 Turf Renovator Seeder. I have found this is the best way to get a smooth yard with excellent germination. This seeder is similar to one made by Land Pride, Great Plains, and others.
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#65 - Jak na to + styl
Awesome setup! Just picked up a woods seeder and plan to ad this service to my excavation company!
Awesome! Congrats!!
Nice work.... Really enjoyed the video...
Now that's a nice trailer
Thank you!! I wish I would’ve opted for the hydraulic dovetail. That’s my only regret. I had planned on getting it but adding hydraulic jacks, 8k axles, and other options, I had already increased the cost a lot. Looking back, I should’ve just but the bullet and got the dovetail so I would’ve had a trailer with everything I wanted. I have pulled in and out of some driveways where I drug the back end of the trailer. Having a hydraulic dovetail would’ve given me more clearance at the back.
@@JaredsShop that would have been nice but it's still a beautiful trailer
@@thegreatnorthwoodswithbb2863
Thanks!!
I agree with you that you’ll get better results with the seeder you use, but I think you could get good results with a broadcast spreader and the use of a seedbed roller. Instead of a cultipacker. Land pride makes a nice seedbed roller that I own. It can be three point or ball hitch. Check it out sometime.
Thanks! I will check it out.
Yes, something like that will work depending on how the soil is prepped. Most of the time, it’s not powdery enough for me to use something like that. This yard was very hard packed in most places.
Great video! I picked up a new kubota M4-071 deluxe last fall, recently picked up a new landpride APS 1572 seeder that has a striking resemblance to your woods.
Do you multi pass at a half rate or do you do single pass at a full rate on your projects?
Thanks for your time, nice work!
Thank you for the feedback! Congrats on your purchase. You’ll have to let me know how the setup works. That’s quite the tractor for seeding. Will it be for food plots, yards, or pastures?
It depends on the ground, seed rate, and seed used although there’s always at least some overlap or crosshatching. Every row will get overlapped 6-12” to ensure full coverage and some jobs will be crosshatched at a different angle, preferably 90 degrees if possible.
Here’s a couple reasons I may crosshatch:
- I can’t always drop enough seed for very high rates or with larger seed. If the seed is larger or I’m wanting high seed rate I could run with the seed cups wide open and it still not be enough. For these scenarios I may close them a bit and do multiple passes. I always bring extra seed but I’d rather make multiple passes than run out of seed or blow the quote by using too much. Seed is expensive.
- If I want the ground broke up more. One of my first seeding jobs was on some land that was incredibly hard and crusted over. I set the front rollers to the most aggressive setting and crosshatched as I seeded. Making passes in different directions broke up the ground very well. The homeowner was ecstatic as it turned out better than he expected. He’s also glad he went with me over the hydro seeder. There’s no way the roots of the hydro seed couple have pierced the crust. The seed germinated well. Had I known it would’ve been like this I would have brought the Harley rake or made other arrangements. Unfortunately, this job was 1 1/2 hours away so I didn’t get to look at it first and I was told it was finish grade. I just neglected to ask how long ago it had been graded and the condition of the surface. He also had some gullies which filled in fairly decently with the multiple passes.
- I will also crosshatch areas that may get heavy traffic, risk washout, or may grow slowly. I do this just to get a lot of seed in this area since it may have a lower germination rate.
If I’m overseeding I usually don’t crosshatch and I keep my spike roller straight. I don’t want to tear up the existing grass too much. If I want to drop more seed I will make sure my rows overlap more but crosshatching can pull up grass chunks.
If I’m doing food plots I almost never crosshatch as it’s not about looks.
@@JaredsShop thank you for the great info! A ton of knowledge was displayed on the topic. I used to use my kubota m59 to do lawns, much easier with a hydro vs gear drive. I always cross hatched lawns just to make sure my coverage was adequate and to help negate any possible streaks or skips. I used a brillion seeder, but I had a ton of requests for pasture and food plot work, so I purchased the landpride as it’ll do everything pretty good, vs new lawns really good. I think I will try to drum up some sports facility over seeding this year and see if I can really make a splash in the seeding game around me. Everyone hydro seeds here, but it doesn’t work well for every application as you know.
Hi, I just picked up a frontier OS1060m overseeder which is the exact same setup as this. I have a few jobs to use it on right now and have never used it. That being said as far as new yard prep goes do you recommend tilling up bare dirt like those before using this or do you recommend going over the whole thing with the seeder before seeding or just seeding as I go? Thank you! Great video
How hard is the land? Is it packed? If it’s packed and sun baked you may want to break it up more. If your front rollers are adjustable like mine they’ll break up the ground pretty on their own. You could also turn off the seeding and use the rollers alone to break up the ground.
In one yard, I used my landscape rake to tear up the dirt before I seeded it so I didn’t have to make as many passes. If you run the seeder without dropping seed you’ll have to pick up the seeder at each end. With the landscape rake I could just drag it around and not worry about it when I turned as long as I wasn’t turning sharp.
@@JaredsShop it’s fairly loose. It is freshly bulldozed and we have been pounded by rain so it’s soft and honestly too soft for me to get into right now. I’m did a few test runs before all the rain and it seemed to tear up nicely with the adjusted front rollers all the way aggressive. I have some fairly deep dozer ruts and high spots to flatten out so I was going to till those. But if I don’t have to till the whole area I would rather not. I’m looking at around 1.5-2 acres worth of area. All of which is on a fairly steep slope that I will have to back down and work up to the top.
Was the customer going to lay straw down and was there any winter rye to help hold the soil from erosion for the winter ?
The customer is a farmer and understands that none of his crops get straw cover and that its true benefits are just for erosion control and moisture retention. He’s not worried about the moisture heading into winter and spring. He is considering wide straw mat for steep hills that border the side and back of his shop as well as a couple other places that may erode. A lot of the area is fairly flat and shouldn’t erode.
The grass mixture was a mixture of KBG and ryegrass. Whether or not it comes in depends on the ground temp but the seed company said we should see germination before Christmas. I didn’t have much hope for germination this year but the seed company says otherwise. I guess we’ll see.
That woods seeder looks very close to my Landpride Aps1572. Though mine has a cultipacker in the rear but can be ordered just like yours. I’m wanting to install a small seed box on it but Landpride wants $2k just for the small seed box. Plan on renovating my yard next spring using the new L6060. What grass seed do you normally seed there. I’m in the south which most are using common Bermuda grass.
Yes, they’re pretty similar. Unfortunately, I don’t think there is a small seed box available for mine but I can’t use large seeds. This seeder was originally designed by Gill before Woods purchased them. It still has a Gill sticker in it.
Here in Ohio we use cool season grasses. We use a lot of fescues, blue grass, and ryes. It’s always a mixture (that I plant anyway). For the yard in this video it was a sunny mix which contained about 30% Kentucky blue grass and the rest of it are ryes. Rye comes in faster and some of them creep. KBG spreads from its rhizomes, is very hardy, but slow to germinate. The biggest reason we use mixtures is because some do better in drought/summer and some do better in wet/spring. It helps make sure the lawn is healthy year round.
How do you plan on renovating? Full kill? Rototill?
@@JaredsShop plan on a full kill, rototill and leveling before seeding. Hopefully it’ll smooth it up and get a better stand of Bermuda grass.
@@braxtonwiggins6576
Nice. I have some bumpy areas in my yard I’m deciding on how to fix.
- kill, till, seed
- harley rake high spots over and over (done mildly it doesn’t kill everything)
- fill in with pulverized topsoil
Not sure which route I’ll take.