I just watched this one again and I had forgotten that this was the infamous “Timmy got his head stuck in the fence again” episode. RIP Timmy- you are missed.
I have worked the dealership service departments as a Tech for over 20 years, and I seldom torque anything but heads and some intakes on the top end, and rods and main bearing caps on the bottom end. And, when I was very young, I rebuilt more than a few tractor engines without torquing anything. Good work.
Thanks for the videos. Your method of setting the front wheel bearings is the factory recommended method on my old Jag (which I follow). I've never had a problem with them.
Awesome vid. This is very similar to a 1982 Chev 3/4 ton I just worked on. It came in with the left front axle ujoint broken like that one, and the guy used it so much the ends on the axle broke. So I got a used one from the wrecker, changed the ujoint in it, reassembled everything, then I got to that same spot you did, and said to myself the old one had a snap ring on the end. This axle didn't have a groove for one, this was supposed to be the same axle but it came out of another year truck, so I cut a groove in it with a diegrinder, put the snap ring in and finished it up. Never ran into any issues with the length of axle or anything and the truck is still working, so it gets its fine. And what you were saying about torqueing wheel bearings, did it for a long time that way, worked at a dealership, policy, but I did it for so long and did so many, that its just as easy to do it by feel, tighten down, spin hub to seat bearing, back nut off and just tighten snug, basically, I've never had an issue, as long as you have proper lubrication shouldn't have a problem.
I've been tightening ball bearings by hand and feel since I was 17 years old, never ever had a problem. Warped rotors messed up that Cutlass, I got a retired guy down the street who machines them for 40 clams a pop. Also, it would be good if you keep the volume of music and speech within 100 decibels of each other, that way we can leave the volume and not get our ear wax blasted out. It takes time to collect that stuff you know
Yes,I am 71 years old this month I entered the mechanic and mechanical field professionally in 1968 Zero clearance by hand because they are lubricated with bearing grease not gear oil as differentials and transmissions If the threads are smooth and you achieve zero movement at the outer perimeter of drum or rotor and if I repeat it you are taught the proper method of packing the bearigs. When you have repetitive customers for some forty odd years the proof is in the pudding err ! packing.
Kinda late to the party, but... I've adjusted tapered roller bearings by "feel" for almost 40 years, that is how I was taught to do it. I've never had a failure or a "come back" on wheel bearings and other applications. I've occasionally used a torque wrench, when requested, with the same result. The torqued bearings always seemed to have a tiny bit of play in them, though. Again, never a failure. Tapered roller bearings are designed to run at "zero" preload , but they are very tolerant of plus or minus either way. It's pretty hard to get exactly "zero" preload out in the field. Even with a torque wrench.
Oh I was so glad you seen that Wheel cyl , I did notice that would work till you turned right ,Some of the biggest problems with torquing nuts is if a shim or retainer fails the whole system will loosen , Then again had bought a 69 chevy ll Acadian guy said there`s new wheels on it and ready to go drove home ,Ride got rough then started bouncing WTH the rim cut off the studs and cut a groove in the hub and stayed in the groove for a mile or better ,Told him he said they were all torqued at 80lb
I was taught to tighten em all the way and back em off to fit and feel ... To tighten em to make sure bearings seated completely "not to put 200lbs an break something" the only failure was a 89 Ford with wire spoke wheel's that the spokes came loose an cupped the bearings via excessive weird vibration .... Junkyard aluminum wheel replacement in 1997 and new bearing's front an rear ... It's still going smooth to this day .
Thank you for the hands on insight into your closed knuckle. I appreciate your "one man, get it done" approach to trucks and the world in general. You ever have anyone "balk" at your continuous camera work as you wander through the world? Thanks for the videos, as an appreciative DIYer my self.
I love the animal background noises. Maybe they were discussing the relative value of Torque wrenches, lol. I had always tightened things by feel. but I did get a torque wrench eventually, after a while went back to tightening by feel, just rechecking with torque. Our "manual" method has the benefit of being attached to our Brain, which can be pretty darn accurate after all. I like your honesty, and step by step delivery. Adds an element of reality sometimes missing of instructional videos..also helps me feel like I'm not the only one putting things on wrong, and taking them apart again .lol .thanks!
Your right Jeff. Seating the bearing and backing it off to the closest castle nut setting is the right way. Sometimes you don't have a choice because of where the castle nut dictates where the cotter pin is going to live. . As long as the drum or rotor will turn freely, without it being too loose that's all you can do. I am about the same age as you, and this is the method that they taught us in Pacific Vocational Institute in Vancouver BC. I have also not had a come back because of this method. I like you channel. Entertaining.
As soon as I heard it I knew what it was - we taped a piece of pvc pipe to the horns of some of our goats and that did the trick - no more head through the fence.
Some people think they know it all when you don't do things the way they think you should when in all reality if you actually met them they don't have one lick of common sense.
My dad taught me how to tighten wheel bearings the same way. Like you 30 years later never had a problem. Torque wrench on a wheel bearing just sounds wrong. like dry ice.
I had terrible luck with my Craftsman micro torque click style wrench. I had to have it repaired twice and the third time it failed I made them refund my money. I now use a beam style wrench. I too have never torqued wheel bearings and have never had a failure.
I follow two car/truck channels on U-tube: Eldrlyiron and Mightycarmods. they couldn't be more apart from each other but you both have in common. love of mechanics and doing things yourself. I just wanna thank you for making such great content, You are a great inspiration to me.
I never use a torque wrench except for cylinder heads and internal motor parts.. which I rarely work on in the first place. However, it is probably a good idea for many people because it is human nature to over-tighten. Not sure if I do 2 wheel drive front bearings correctly, I just seat it lightly with a wrench as I spin it for awhile, back it off until there is play, tighten it by hand until the play is gone, drop the cotter pin in which might involve backing it off a tad and check it in a few months. I just take the play out, I don't know, and never had a problem. Crazy thing is I saw a youtube video by a "tech" and he "packed" a fresh bearing by simply rubbing grease on the outside of the bearing.
I'm having trouble finding the red (or blue, or yellow) Spicer hub control knobs for my '70 K20 Suburban with the original drum brake D44 axle. The knobs are broken and I don't want to replace the original hubs just yet. I uploaded a couple videos of the Suburban on my channel, it's been five years and I finally got it running and driving under its own power.
ive always wanted one of these trucks... i rarely ever see them anymore. maybe one day ill have one. do a little work to it and make it look real nice and drop a diesel in it and id never want another car or truck again.
they did a study on extensions and you could use 25ft of extensions and the torque will be the same believe it or not. thanks for your videos they are great. just an fyi
Going to video tape putting the Door Panels on. After that I need to get a wiring harness before the rest of the interior is done. Then this summer I plan on body work. Piece by Piece Day by Day.
Very good job, such a joy when everything is put back where is suppose to be. Wondering , did you fill axle oil / diff oil ? I usually flush and fill it up to level .
Hey Jeff, I have that same model wrench. It drives me nuts because the grip loosens up, and partially obsures that tiny window they give you to read the numbers through.
If you are gonna use a torque wrench then you should use thread lubricant too. The silver stuff or 30 weight oil or something. Otherwise you're bound to set the torque wrong due to friction. But, I forget to use a torque wrench a lot. Saves on thread lubricant LOL
Those that comment about "specifics" on torque, should read who brought this video to us, "Redneck Restorations". What part of the first would, do they NOT understand? 🤣
If it works it works. Some people get so hung up on doing things to spec. Sometimes it does really matter but other times it does not. How many Shops actually torque sheel lugnuts to spec?? not many! most just hit em with the impact. Then when you get a flat on the side of the road you end up cursing those fools who overtightened your lugs. Great vids man Love all the projects. What axle did they use in thos? dana 44?
Since you said your particular axle was only used for a 1/2 year I was curious if you ever considered swapping it for another that's more common and with disk brakes like maybe a 8-lug dana 44 or dana 60. I don't know a whole lot about the '67-72 trucks but they sure look nice.
meh, I been tightening them thar wheel bearings up by hand for a long time. I impact those lugs on too. In fact the scary thing is I do a lot of stuff like you do when noone is watching. Customer cars I generally do stuff a little different. Now as to that extension length. Longer extensions only mess up impacts. If you are using them with a manual wrench, 100 ft lbs is still a hundred foot pounds no matter what the length is. Just because the longer extensions twists a bit doesn't change the amount of tension at the bolt. Since impacts use, well impact(little hammers), that longer extensions will absorb it and it won't transfer through. The torque wrench will just keep turning till the proper tension is reached. Did I miss the manifold job on that '69? Keep looking for that.
I've got 2 old Fords F-250 trucks with the closed knuckle {birfield} dana 44 axles mine steer alot easier after filling the closed knuckles with molly chassis grease. Takes about 2 tubes per side.
Jeff this is your truck, if you choose to not tork every thing that is your choice to make. Is it wrong? Technically yes. If you are ok with it then I would be fine with it. Even if you were working on my vehicle if it's good enough for your vehicle I say the same is fine for my vehicle. I know some about mechanics, I am not a mechanic so I defer to the mechanic. I only go to mechanics I trust. Be safe & take care & thank you.
I never torqued a wheel bearing. And I knew a guy who built old air colled VWs and he could torque any head bolt to specs without a torque wrench. i can't do that :)
The guys who will call you on the torque wrench would have NO IDEA how to care for a silly goat while fixin a Jimmy axle!!! Eff em, Jeff, and carry on carrying on!!!
I've always done bearings the same way myself.Never had a problem.Far as that Olds, if you're not going to give me a chance to fix it if I might have done something wrong, then that's as good as an insult so heck with ya. I'll eat the cost if I screwed something up. Anyhow, do you figure all closed knuckles are built similar?I wonder what the U-joints look like on my Scout after 40 years of banging around through the woods and plowing snow.Never tore one down before to that extent.
You research torque limitations with extension vs no extensions aN and you will discover there is no difference in values with or with out the extensions torque value is reached at the end of the extensions slight twist which is miniscule I had the privilege of working with R&D in the design and build of high volume/pressure natural gas compressors and engines from 40 to 4000 up and we changed the grade not size of the connecting for bolts and used a specially designed lube increased which a!!owed us to increase torque value and increased horsepower and volume of gas flow
LOL..Call the torque police..I've had the same argument with a hundred youngsters..The only failure I've seen was when a young fella at a friends shop did a safety inspection and used the torque wrench to tighten the wheel bearing and didn't back it off to line up the cotter key instead he tightened it to line it up..Poor woman drove the three miles to my shop and smelled brakes. The hub was so hot that you couldn't touch it..Needless to say the fella got canned that day.
yur supposed to go fifty on the first nut,back it off till loosish,or 90 degrees,then the lock then the second nut 80 ft lb.ish.which,squashes the first nut to correct torque.IF,you torque the first nut,then the second to 80,itll lock up.!!.it does help to use the specs,if you dont on 4x4rs,its hit & miss,i did a ford 3 times,without a torque wrench till i realised,the second nut tightens the first.,,just nuts..
You notice how calm he was when Jeff got close and pushed his head through.
I just watched this one again and I had forgotten that this was the infamous “Timmy got his head stuck in the fence again” episode. RIP Timmy- you are missed.
I have worked the dealership service departments as a Tech for over 20 years, and I seldom torque anything but heads and some intakes on the top end, and rods and main bearing caps on the bottom end. And, when I was very young, I rebuilt more than a few tractor engines without torquing anything. Good work.
I swear that goat was yelling, "Jeff!!!...Jeff!!!" Haha
That's funny right tare
Thanks for the videos. Your method of setting the front wheel bearings is the factory recommended method on my old Jag (which I follow). I've never had a problem with them.
Awesome vid. This is very similar to a 1982 Chev 3/4 ton I just worked on. It came in with the left front axle ujoint broken like that one, and the guy used it so much the ends on the axle broke. So I got a used one from the wrecker, changed the ujoint in it, reassembled everything, then I got to that same spot you did, and said to myself the old one had a snap ring on the end. This axle didn't have a groove for one, this was supposed to be the same axle but it came out of another year truck, so I cut a groove in it with a diegrinder, put the snap ring in and finished it up. Never ran into any issues with the length of axle or anything and the truck is still working, so it gets its fine. And what you were saying about torqueing wheel bearings, did it for a long time that way, worked at a dealership, policy, but I did it for so long and did so many, that its just as easy to do it by feel, tighten down, spin hub to seat bearing, back nut off and just tighten snug, basically, I've never had an issue, as long as you have proper lubrication shouldn't have a problem.
I've been tightening ball bearings by hand and feel since I was 17 years old, never ever had a problem. Warped rotors messed up that Cutlass, I got a retired guy down the street who machines them for 40 clams a pop. Also, it would be good if you keep the volume of music and speech within 100 decibels of each other, that way we can leave the volume and not get our ear wax blasted out. It takes time to collect that stuff you know
Yes,I am 71 years old this month I entered the mechanic and mechanical field professionally in 1968 Zero clearance by hand because they are lubricated with bearing grease not gear oil as differentials and transmissions
If the threads are smooth and you achieve zero movement at the outer perimeter of drum or rotor and if I repeat it you are taught the proper method
of packing the bearigs. When you have repetitive customers for some forty odd years the proof is in the pudding err ! packing.
I like your work and your thought process. It teaches us how to get things done with what you have. Please keep going
Great video as always! Nice hands on demonstration of the proper use of a torque wrench. Keep up the good work!
Excellent video, the goat episode, been there done that. I get your philosophy of R&R repair and replace as needed thanks for posting
buzz kirschner No prollum.
Kinda late to the party, but...
I've adjusted tapered roller bearings by "feel" for almost 40 years, that is how I was taught to do it. I've never had a failure or a "come back" on wheel bearings and other applications.
I've occasionally used a torque wrench, when requested, with the same result.
The torqued bearings always seemed to have a tiny bit of play in them, though. Again, never a failure.
Tapered roller bearings are designed to run at "zero" preload , but they are very tolerant of plus or minus either way. It's pretty hard to get exactly "zero" preload out in the field. Even with a torque wrench.
Oh I was so glad you seen that Wheel cyl , I did notice that would work till you turned right ,Some of the biggest problems with torquing nuts is if a shim or retainer fails the whole system will loosen , Then again had bought a 69 chevy ll Acadian guy said there`s new wheels on it and ready to go drove home ,Ride got rough then started bouncing WTH the rim cut off the studs and cut a groove in the hub and stayed in the groove for a mile or better ,Told him he said they were all torqued at 80lb
I was taught to tighten em all the way and back em off to fit and feel ... To tighten em to make sure bearings seated completely "not to put 200lbs an break something" the only failure was a 89 Ford with wire spoke wheel's that the spokes came loose an cupped the bearings via excessive weird vibration .... Junkyard aluminum wheel replacement in 1997 and new bearing's front an rear ... It's still going smooth to this day .
you do have those crazies who think everything needs to be done 100% right no matter what lol keep on truckin!
Your entertaining to watch with your video editing and cometary. Let alone you demeanor. Thanks for the vid
Thank you for the hands on insight into your closed knuckle. I appreciate your "one man, get it done" approach to trucks and the world in general.
You ever have anyone "balk" at your continuous camera work as you wander through the world?
Thanks for the videos, as an appreciative DIYer my self.
I truly enjoy your videos this one as all the rest was great keep them coming. Thank You
Having goats myself, I got a good laugh out of the goat part... been there a lot myself.
Jeff....very glad to see you back,missed yeh
I love the animal background noises. Maybe they were discussing the relative value of Torque wrenches, lol. I had always tightened things by feel. but I did get a torque wrench eventually, after a while went back to tightening by feel, just rechecking with torque. Our "manual" method has the benefit of being attached to our Brain, which can be pretty darn accurate after all. I like your honesty, and step by step delivery. Adds an element of reality sometimes missing of instructional videos..also helps me feel like I'm not the only one putting things on wrong, and taking them apart again .lol .thanks!
that was funny with TIMMY jeff..love all your videos..you Eric the Car Guy and Brians Mobile ...all awesome
Your right Jeff. Seating the bearing and backing it off to the closest castle nut setting is the right way. Sometimes you don't have a choice because of where the castle nut dictates where the cotter pin is going to live. . As long as the drum or rotor will turn freely, without it being too loose that's all you can do. I am about the same age as you, and this is the method that they taught us in Pacific Vocational Institute in Vancouver BC.
I have also not had a come back because of this method.
I like you channel. Entertaining.
Glad your back brother
and yet another great video, lets see some more!
Love the animals in the background. They "make" the video...
Hey Jeff ,I talked to wheel bearings a few times , you rock
thank you very much. now i can do my 1979 f 350 heavy duty. again thanks again
another great vid like always jeff
As always, thanks for the videos. And damn!You even torqued your lug nuts!
Great video!
Great video Jeff...
Keep em coming Jeff!
this axel is a better design than the new ones !!!
Jeff, if you were working with Fords you would be me. Great videos.
Great video, keep em coming!
Thats the same way I do my wheel bearings, never tourqed them never had a problem. Always went by feel.
As soon as I heard it I knew what it was - we taped a piece of pvc pipe to the horns of some of our goats and that did the trick - no more head through the fence.
Great video! keep them comming
One more great vid ,,, keep them coming jeff
Some people think they know it all when you don't do things the way they think you should when in all reality if you actually met them they don't have one lick of common sense.
This is the first of your videos Iv seen. I'm hooked you are so funny
rest my friend
Yup thats how I do my wheel bearings, that's how I was taught, funny that must be the right way. :)
Jolly good intertainment OLD man! LOL Some day I will show you how to clean up a grill on one of these GMC's. Cheers OLDDUDE
Love it!
good video
My dad taught me how to tighten wheel bearings the same way. Like you 30 years later never had a problem. Torque wrench on a wheel bearing just sounds wrong. like dry ice.
Love the animal rescue too !
Cool truck jeff! Still waiting for that other GMC to get the 389 in it haha
I had terrible luck with my Craftsman micro torque click style wrench. I had to have it repaired twice and the third time it failed I made them refund my money. I now use a beam style wrench. I too have never torqued wheel bearings and have never had a failure.
We used to duct tape a length of broom handle across our goats horns.
I've seen the closed knuckle assembly refferd to as birfield type.
Toyota used this design untill they quit making solid axle 4x4s
birfield is cv type,not uni.id say.better with open,as you can grease the uni.plus,dont talk about toyotas on hear.i hate them.
I usually hammer those bolts on with a air gun.One thing I always torque is allium wheels .Had them come loose
Still waiting on YOUR next one too!
and never let another man touch your shaft
I follow two car/truck channels on U-tube: Eldrlyiron and Mightycarmods. they couldn't be more apart from each other but you both have in common. love of mechanics and doing things yourself. I just wanna thank you for making such great content, You are a great inspiration to me.
I never use a torque wrench except for cylinder heads and internal motor parts.. which I rarely work on in the first place. However, it is probably a good idea for many people because it is human nature to over-tighten. Not sure if I do 2 wheel drive front bearings correctly, I just seat it lightly with a wrench as I spin it for awhile, back it off until there is play, tighten it by hand until the play is gone, drop the cotter pin in which might involve backing it off a tad and check it in a few months. I just take the play out, I don't know, and never had a problem.
Crazy thing is I saw a youtube video by a "tech" and he "packed" a fresh bearing by simply rubbing grease on the outside of the bearing.
Wow what a good Lookin pick-up
The Goat Whisperer ! My ex did the same thing , I got rid of the fence with he in it.
lol the goat! nice video. always like watchen em
I'm having trouble finding the red (or blue, or yellow) Spicer hub control knobs for my '70 K20 Suburban with the original drum brake D44 axle. The knobs are broken and I don't want to replace the original hubs just yet. I uploaded a couple videos of the Suburban on my channel, it's been five years and I finally got it running and driving under its own power.
Somebody was being sarcastic in this video lol.
I rarely use a torque wrench, tighten things till they almost snap and that is good.
ive always wanted one of these trucks... i rarely ever see them anymore. maybe one day ill have one. do a little work to it and make it look real nice and drop a diesel in it and id never want another car or truck again.
they did a study on extensions and you could use 25ft of extensions and the torque will be the same believe it or not. thanks for your videos they are great. just an fyi
Go Timmy!
LOL on the end of the video.. When nature calls!
don't you feel better now that you used the torque wrench?enjoy your videos, thanks for making them!
Going to video tape putting the Door Panels on. After that I need to get a wiring harness before the rest of the interior is done. Then this summer I plan on body work. Piece by Piece Day by Day.
well after 20 years always good to get your mind refreshed now um ready. were is dat old ford higboy at now,,
Many have come and gone!
Hey, yeah... Where you at on that now? Still waiting for # 3!
Yes you do know farm life.stay dry👍
Very good job, such a joy when everything is put back where is suppose to be. Wondering , did you fill axle oil / diff oil ? I usually flush and fill it up to level .
Hey Jeff, I have that same model wrench. It drives me nuts because the grip loosens up, and partially obsures that tiny window they give you to read the numbers through.
hey jeff , you did that wrong ha ha ha could not resist that ;)
If you are gonna use a torque wrench then you should use thread lubricant too. The silver stuff or 30 weight oil or something. Otherwise you're bound to set the torque wrong due to friction. But, I forget to use a torque wrench a lot. Saves on thread lubricant LOL
you dont need a torque wrench when you have experience as a mechanic !!
Those that comment about "specifics" on torque, should read who brought this video to us, "Redneck Restorations". What part of the first would, do they NOT understand? 🤣
If it works it works. Some people get so hung up on doing things to spec. Sometimes it does really matter but other times it does not. How many Shops actually torque sheel lugnuts to spec?? not many! most just hit em with the impact. Then when you get a flat on the side of the road you end up cursing those fools who overtightened your lugs. Great vids man Love all the projects. What axle did they use in thos? dana 44?
Since you said your particular axle was only used for a 1/2 year I was curious if you ever considered swapping it for another that's more common and with disk brakes like maybe a 8-lug dana 44 or dana 60. I don't know a whole lot about the '67-72 trucks but they sure look nice.
Thanks Klobz!
Ребята, как нам можно получить не более compiment!
3:25 i died laughing! great video man!
Could you do a video demonstrating how to put in in 4x4 and using Hi and Lo?
meh, I been tightening them thar wheel bearings up by hand for a long time. I impact those lugs on too. In fact the scary thing is I do a lot of stuff like you do when noone is watching. Customer cars I generally do stuff a little different.
Now as to that extension length. Longer extensions only mess up impacts. If you are using them with a manual wrench, 100 ft lbs is still a hundred foot pounds no matter what the length is. Just because the longer extensions twists a bit doesn't change the amount of tension at the bolt. Since impacts use, well impact(little hammers), that longer extensions will absorb it and it won't transfer through. The torque wrench will just keep turning till the proper tension is reached.
Did I miss the manifold job on that '69? Keep looking for that.
I've got 2 old Fords F-250 trucks with the closed knuckle {birfield} dana 44 axles
mine steer alot easier after filling the closed knuckles with molly chassis grease.
Takes about 2 tubes per side.
i ditched them for open high pin diffs.with disc.
Looks like Jeff got the shaft...
Jeff this is your truck, if you choose to not tork every thing that is your choice to make. Is it wrong? Technically yes. If you are ok with it then I would be fine with it. Even if you were working on my vehicle if it's good enough for your vehicle I say the same is fine for my vehicle. I know some about mechanics, I am not a mechanic so I defer to the mechanic. I only go to mechanics I trust. Be safe & take care & thank you.
theres a feel you get for certain nuts/bolts,like the one valve train bolt didnt torque.in his vids.its all feel.sumthin wrong er.
is old blue diesil? i was watching your your van rescure episode and i couldnt tell over the music when you started the truck
I never torqued a wheel bearing. And I knew a guy who built old air colled VWs and he could torque any head bolt to specs without a torque wrench. i can't do that :)
The guys who will call you on the torque wrench would have NO IDEA how to care for a silly goat while fixin a Jimmy axle!!! Eff em, Jeff, and carry on carrying on!!!
I ran a shade tree mechanic shop for years. I hope you don't find this insulting, but,,,, You sorta remind me of me....:P
"The grass is greener on the other side" possible what the goat was thinking?
I've always done bearings the same way myself.Never had a problem.Far as that Olds, if you're not going to give me a chance to fix it if I might have done something wrong, then that's as good as an insult so heck with ya. I'll eat the cost if I screwed something up. Anyhow, do you figure all closed knuckles are built similar?I wonder what the U-joints look like on my Scout after 40 years of banging around through the woods and plowing snow.Never tore one down before to that extent.
Some people think you have to torque every thing Tighten it down an letter go
You research torque limitations with extension vs no extensions aN and you will discover
there is no difference in values with or with out the extensions torque value is reached at the end of the extensions slight twist which is miniscule I had the privilege of working
with R&D in the design and build of high volume/pressure natural gas compressors
and engines from 40 to 4000 up and we changed the grade not size of the connecting for bolts and used a specially designed lube increased which a!!owed us to increase torque value and increased horsepower and volume of gas flow
40-400 horsepower
I've done wheel bearing apart the same way never had one fail...guess were not all wrong
If you zip tie a peace of pcv pipe to Timmy's horn he can get his head threw the fence.
I believe that the correct torque specification is a 1/4 turn past tight....lol
LOL..Call the torque police..I've had the same argument with a hundred youngsters..The only failure I've seen was when a young fella at a friends shop did a safety inspection and used the torque wrench to tighten the wheel bearing and didn't back it off to line up the cotter key instead he tightened it to line it up..Poor woman drove the three miles to my shop and smelled brakes. The hub was so hot that you couldn't touch it..Needless to say the fella got canned that day.
yur supposed to go fifty on the first nut,back it off till loosish,or 90 degrees,then the lock then the second nut 80 ft lb.ish.which,squashes the first nut to correct torque.IF,you torque the first nut,then the second to 80,itll lock up.!!.it does help to use the specs,if you dont on 4x4rs,its hit & miss,i did a ford 3 times,without a torque wrench till i realised,the second nut tightens the first.,,just nuts..
50# torque then back it off 90 degrees then torque lock nut to 160#
77 350