Put it to the test back in late December when the second strong cold front was pushing temps in Kendall down into the 50 for 3 nights...The tree I selected was a picky but known producer that has produced large quatities in the past before it was infected with LEM but has not been cut back to treat the LEM. Two other large trees with LEM in the back yard were cut back two years ago and have regrown but LEM is still an issue and were not used but rather served as my control. I placed 3 large publix ice bags 1-2 inches from the trunk of my 30' Mauritius tree over three nights (the bags would melt slowly but keeping the ice in the bag helps slow the melting and there was always some ice present in the bags during the day until I replenished the supply each evening. It is now January 22 and I can already observe the new growth flush (about 4-6 inches) and they seem to also be pushing flowers! So it did work for me. I also have those two other large trees which I didn't apply ice to (as a control) and they also pushed vegetartive growth but did not flower - I will be pinch testing these now this week to see if I can flowering from the old growth. Coincidentally, I also have 4 small (under 4foot tall) trees (Sweetheart, and Brewster) that I had air-layered (marcotted) 2-3 years ago and which have only been planted for less than 2 years which also are flowering but without the use of ice. However I believe these smaller trees flowered due to their smaller trunks and the cold air being able to keep their internal temp lower due to the small diameter of the trunk and branches which make it more succeptible to the cold and wind chill. I'll follow up on the pinching of the tips to share if anything came of that experiment.
The soil is different. Redlands have a great soul for a lot of fruits, but the “scaring the tree” idea is also really good. My grandpa used to stick a metal nail into the trunk of mature trees on years when they didn’t want to flower, and sure enough, it fruited a lot. But then you got to feed the trees a lot the year after that
I put 50 lb of ice on my tree one year on the coldest day of the year. I put it on at night and left it. There was still ice most of the next day. I ended up with a lot of excellent fruit that year! Now the tree has the mite 🙁
make no sense-my 6 year olds fruited heavily 3 yr ago.last year zero!this year,only one fruited and very few,and they sort of puckered.2 Emporer and one new3'Maritius[for cross pollination]treesneed more air circulation,didnt prune at all.now new growth before its time,or actually,late!what must I do ?in Orlando,zone 9B.I know they are able,theyve proved it!mulched,fertilized watered.Zone 9B Orlando.Can anyone help? mahalo!
I live in Sacramento California. I think my zone 9. I want to have tropical fruit trees. I'm not sure which one will produce fruits and survive. Do you know which best fruit tree for my location?
It all depends on how much work you want to put in. Most things are manageable in the California’s Central Valley. By most things I mean mangos, lychees, jackfruit, cherimoya, avocado, Longans. There is winter and summer protection required. But once established they will be mostly fine as long as they’re isn’t a weird winter event such as snow or extreme cold temperatures. Anything below 32 for more than an hour.
@@crissalda1306 Very true! First couple of years, they definitely need winter protection -- better if can move them indoors or in a heated greenhouse/garage. You can add sapodilla and star fruit to the list -- I have found, to my surprise, that sapodillas are more cold hardy than mangoes. However, they are extremely slow growing.
Put it to the test back in late December when the second strong cold front was pushing temps in Kendall down into the 50 for 3 nights...The tree I selected was a picky but known producer that has produced large quatities in the past before it was infected with LEM but has not been cut back to treat the LEM. Two other large trees with LEM in the back yard were cut back two years ago and have regrown but LEM is still an issue and were not used but rather served as my control. I placed 3 large publix ice bags 1-2 inches from the trunk of my 30' Mauritius tree over three nights (the bags would melt slowly but keeping the ice in the bag helps slow the melting and there was always some ice present in the bags during the day until I replenished the supply each evening. It is now January 22 and I can already observe the new growth flush (about 4-6 inches) and they seem to also be pushing flowers! So it did work for me. I also have those two other large trees which I didn't apply ice to (as a control) and they also pushed vegetartive growth but did not flower - I will be pinch testing these now this week to see if I can flowering from the old growth. Coincidentally, I also have 4 small (under 4foot tall) trees (Sweetheart, and Brewster) that I had air-layered (marcotted) 2-3 years ago and which have only been planted for less than 2 years which also are flowering but without the use of ice. However I believe these smaller trees flowered due to their smaller trunks and the cold air being able to keep their internal temp lower due to the small diameter of the trunk and branches which make it more succeptible to the cold and wind chill. I'll follow up on the pinching of the tips to share if anything came of that experiment.
I was just looking at my lychee the and thinking how can i make it flower and here comes your video on lychee flowering . This is good news
The soil is different. Redlands have a great soul for a lot of fruits, but the “scaring the tree” idea is also really good. My grandpa used to stick a metal nail into the trunk of mature trees on years when they didn’t want to flower, and sure enough, it fruited a lot. But then you got to feed the trees a lot the year after that
What size nail?
I put 50 lb of ice on my tree one year on the coldest day of the year. I put it on at night and left it. There was still ice most of the next day. I ended up with a lot of excellent fruit that year! Now the tree has the mite 🙁
This is really works?
@@htrr23 it did
I just did this in Belize and it worked!
Amazing video, love seeing other tropicals too! Would love to see another Annona video with Har soon too👍
This guy is a genius 🧠
Wow great information vietnamese have this rumors as well they scraped scar the trunks
Gonna try this
It not 20 miles to the bay/ocean. It is 11.7 miles from Lara Farms to Saga Bay.
Yes but there is a slight temp difference and the soil is completely different
@@sidthekid79 in general, the more north you go the more rain. And the more inland the more rain as well.
Beutifull plants thanks for your information
I written From El Salvador
That is greatly appreciated 🤙
Which month do they flower to maturity?
Does this ice method works only on lychee trees or will it work on longan, sugar apple and jackfruit trees? Please let me know? Thank you so very much
make no sense-my 6 year olds fruited heavily 3 yr ago.last year zero!this year,only one fruited and very few,and they sort of puckered.2 Emporer and one new3'Maritius[for cross pollination]treesneed more air circulation,didnt prune at all.now new growth before its time,or actually,late!what must I do
?in Orlando,zone 9B.I know they are able,theyve proved it!mulched,fertilized watered.Zone 9B Orlando.Can anyone help? mahalo!
A bag of ice……..riiiiiiiiiiight
Need help with logan 7 years no fruit. @ the 4th year got literally 3 dry ligan fruit from it
Use KNO3 500gram , when all leaf already old (dark green)
Use KNO3 500gram , when all leaf already old (dark green)
I live in Sacramento California. I think my zone 9. I want to have tropical fruit trees. I'm not sure which one will produce fruits and survive. Do you know which best fruit tree for my location?
It all depends on how much work you want to put in. Most things are manageable in the California’s Central Valley. By most things I mean mangos, lychees, jackfruit, cherimoya, avocado, Longans. There is winter and summer protection required. But once established they will be mostly fine as long as they’re isn’t a weird winter event such as snow or extreme cold temperatures. Anything below 32 for more than an hour.
@@crissalda1306 Very true! First couple of years, they definitely need winter protection -- better if can move them indoors or in a heated greenhouse/garage. You can add sapodilla and star fruit to the list -- I have found, to my surprise, that sapodillas are more cold hardy than mangoes. However, they are extremely slow growing.
He is constantly thinking like a fruit producer….obstacles are intended to be
overcome🚧🧗🏽♂