How to Restring a Bali and Graber Cellular Honeycomb Shade
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- čas přidán 12. 12. 2013
- Video ID: 181029
This video will walk you through the steps of restringing your cellular honeycomb or pleated shade. These instructions work for Graber, Bali, and Springs Window Fashions standard cord-operated shades. For replacement string, visit fixmyblinds.com/collections/c....
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Things you will need for the repair:
• Scissors
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Needle
• Wire restring tool
• Pliers
• Rubber bands
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You may purchase these parts at fixmyblinds.com
www.fixmyblinds.com/
Needle:
fixmyblinds.com/products/rest...
Wire Restring Tool:
fixmyblinds.com/products/wire...
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Copyright © Fix My Blinds Inc 2019 and Subsequent Years All rights reserved. - Jak na to + styl
Excellent video. Provided the information needed for me to restring two 19+ year old shades. Saved me hundreds of $.
This video enabled me (73 yr old woman) to repair my honeycomb shade. It was pretty simple thanks to the video which demonstrated the various parts and functions. It was very very well done and slow enough to follow. Thank you.
Great Video saved me a lot of money being a 73 yr old woman I did it twice to the same Balli shade 74" long x 44" wide. The video says to measure twice the length plus once the width. I followed the directions with doubts. After hanging them realized the width of the string was not long enough. In my case, it is twice the length and twice the width. Great satisfaction though finally getting it hung and functional for little cost, just wish I didn't have to do it twice. Hope this saves time for someone else.
I don't have Graber/Bali blinds. One end cap on my blinds is actually the cord lock. These instructions were great and I found restringing the blinds very easy. I'm actually kind of mad at myself for paying to have my other blinds restrung several years ago. I would rate myself as a long-time homeowner who has done many repairs over the years, but I think these instructions are simple enough that if you are at all handy, you can repair your blinds successfully. If your blinds are different and you are unsure of yourself, simply take photos with your phone as you take things apart so you will remember how to put it back together. Thank you very much for this excellent video!
Thank you for this video! We were going to replace all of our blinds because one had a broken string and we wanted them all to match. This video saved us $650.00! A little patience, $9.00 of string and needles, and we're done! Many thanks!
Thanks for this instructional video. Fixed my broken cords by myself. Thanks
Thank you, this is so helpful! I replay this every time my cellular shades need repair.
We have 17 year old Graber/Bali honeycomb blinds. Some are beginning to have cords break. Had a local store re-string one cord, but not all, for $12. Not a good solution with different cording. Got a spool of 1.2mm cord and followed this excellent video to repair the next ones to break. Looks easy, but still a challenge. Getting the cords through the cord lock was difficult, but trying to slide the top rail over the cord lock was the worst part. Screwdriver was way too big. Needed my old set of ignition feeler gauges to finally slide the rail over the cord lock. Thanks for an excellent step-by-step instruction video!
Great clear and easy to follow demonstration. I replaced the string for two blinds.
Great video. For $22 (cord, restring tool, needle, shipping) I fixed our 83 1/2"W x 52 1/2" H blinds. But I damaged them in a few places while restringing due to not being careful enough (you can't see the damage now that it's fully re-assembled). If I can do this, so can 90% of you. And a few extra tips:
DO
1. Watch the video all the way through a few times first. Have it available, live, to play, pause, rewind, replay, etc while you do the restring job.
2. Buy the cord, needle, and stringing tool.
3. Have plenty of room in your work space (more than twice as wide as your blind).
4. Use a head lamp and reading glasses if you can't see inside the locking mechanism to get the strings through exactly the right spot. The video shows a close-up immediately after the part where it shows somebody using the stringing tool to pull the cord through the mechanism. My one gripe on the video is this close-up should be before, not after, the step. Otherwise, this step can be very time-consuming and frustrating, even with the restring tool.
5. Vacuum up dog hair, etc from the work space before working on your blind there (mine was the living room floor). Otherwise, it ends up all over and between the pleats of the blind when you rehang it.
DON'T:
1. Don't get in a hurry.
2. Don't forget to remove the set screw or decide "mine doesn't have a set screw" and work ahead. Find the set screw on the opposite end of the locking mechanism, and remove it at the appropriate step of the process. I checked the full 83 1/2" of my top rail three times and didn't find it. Then I decided "mine doesn't have one," and kept going. I tore the top of the blinds up trying to remove from the top rail them while the set screw was still in. Finally I went back, found and removed the set screw, and the top rail came off smooth as butter, except for a few minor snags across the torn parts I created trying to force it off while the set screw was still in place. I also had to spend some extra time getting that thin little piece of plastic back in the top of the blinds and realigning that piece of plastic to the rest of the holes when I needle threaded the new cord through.
3. Don't worry the needle they sent you isn't long enough. Even with my large blinds it was long enough.
4. Don't fight the blind or force it. If something isn't going pretty easily, you've got something wrong. All of these steps go pretty easily when you do them right, even with a large blind like mine.
5. Don't cut more cord than recommended just to be safe. There's significantly too much cord that you cut and discard at the end already, using the measurements they suggest.
Thank you. You saved my day. Instruction were very easy to follow.
Good video for the basic concepts, but I'd like to make some suggestions. First, about the length of the strings : Measure each one you taking out, and cut the replacements a full foot longer. That prevents the string from disappearing into the shade if things slip before you tie on the knob or aglet. Second, it was much easier for me to remove the cord lock from the top rail, then thread the strings through it. Next, slide the top rail into place on the shade material. (Much easier because the cord lock was not in the way.) Then snap the cord lock back into the top rail. I used a ~1" wide bit of thin metal to hold the fabric out of the way as I snapped it in.
The video helped, although it took me 3 hours for just a 2 string, 32x35 inch shade. The most challenging task was fishing the string through the cord lock. The looped wire was not inserting from the outside. I finally, by good fortune, got the little metal toothed wheel to move into an open position. The the wire had a path to travel through the cord lock and catch the string ends to pull through. That could have saved me some time had it been mentioned in the video. But good video!
Your videos are amazing. I just finished restringing my Levolor cellular shade and am so grateful that it could be fixed instead of having to replace it. Thank you.
I was just wondering if this will work with our Levelor cellular shade since they don't mention that brand. Thank you for the comment!
Thanks for the great video!! Watched it a couple of times and fixed my honeycomb shade that had a broken string. Notes:
1. I live in a small town and didn't want to wait for online order of string, so I found a nylon braided cord at the hardware store that was 1.2mm and worked good. We'll see how long it lasts.
2. Measure EACH cord as 2L+1W. Mine had 2 cords. You will have cord remaining, but it was a fast way to cut the string and not worry about the final length.
3. Be VERY careful when removing the top rail. Slide it off in the direction of the cord lock (where the string is pulled from the top). Otherwise you'll have trouble and possibly rip the shade.
4. I had no special tools, so used a craft needle to thread the cord through the blinds. Then used a twist tie from trash bags, with the paper removed so it was just the small wire, to thread the cord through the cord lock. Worked great!
5. I had a little trouble replacing the shade back onto the clips. Once I figured it out, then great. Mine required me to slip the front rail over the clip facing me and then push up on the back side so I heard it click in place. I had not slipped them into the clip the first time, but still heard the click, and after several up and down pulls, the whole thing fell down.
Good luck with your fix. Thanks again for the great video.
Excellent video. Couldn't have fixed my blinds without it. I have Kirsch/Levolor blinds, which have a different cord lock and three strings, but the basic principles are the same. Well done.
Thank you for the great video, I wouldn't have been able to fix my blinds without your video. Also, the part that showed the interior of the cord lock when restringing it was VERY helpful!
Thank you very much! For $3 worth of cord, I was able to restring my shade.
Where did you buy the string or the cord? Thanks
thanks so much for taking the time to put this detailed repair video together. Very helpful and much appreciated.
We did it!!! My Mom's blind broke. We went to several places till we found cord, and it's not the right kind, but it will work until we can get the right stuff! Awesome help!
Thanks a lot. Followed exact steps & was able replace the string and save my blinds!.
Ha ! I did it and could never have accomplished it without this very clear video. Thanx so much.
Great video. Honestly, couldn''t have done it without you. Terrific step by step instruction with great tips.
Your video is awesome. After watching it a couple of times I was successful in replacing the pull cord on our blinds. I had a little trouble with the bottom rail from grabbing the material so I had to slightly bend the starting edge of the rail. Also added a little masking tape to smooth the edge. Afterwards it slipped on without any trouble. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.
That's a great idea to use some masking tape to keep the fabric down!
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial!
Worked perfectly for my shade repair. Thanks.
A few months ago a cord in my honeycomb shade broke. I was bummed as I thought this was going to cost me a lot of money to fix or possibly replace. I happened to look at a video similar to this and was sure I could do this fix with no problem. I was already going to Home Depot so I thought I would check to see if they carried cord and threading tools for me to fix the blind. Not only did they not carry such items, the clerk in the window covering department discouraged me from trying to fix it saying that he had tried it and it was very hard. I left wondering why a “DIY” store would discourage me from such a simple fix.
Well, I just received my order from Fix My Blinds for all the parts I needed to restring/replace the cord (actually all 3) on my blind. I watched this helpful video before and during the process and my blind now works like new! Take your time and you can do it too. (and skip the big box)
A+. Best instructions else spent what I do not have . Thanks so much.
Thanks for the great explanation. It was super clear and helped me to fix my blinds.
Worked great! Thanks for the detailed instructions.
This Video was amazing! I bought a kit first online before attempting this repair! My shade works perfectly now! Thank you so much!!
Where can I buy the kit to pull the strings through the pulley lock and release where the strings enter into the blind head on my cellular blinds?
This worked for my Levolor blinds also!. The needle was short so I had some trouble threading the string. Using the wire
was a great tip. This was generally an easy project. Took me about an hour total. Thanks.
Dan, we're happy to hear the repair went well!
Overall, very helpful. My blind was not exactly like this, I used it as a guide and was able to get the job done.
Thank you so much. You have been very clear and helpful.
Thank you for the walk through. This was very helpful.
I definitely could not have restrung my blinds with out this video. The instructions made it very do-able for me. I ordered the string from the fix my blinds website which was easy to order from. But I used my own embroidery needle and a piece of floral wire to make my own restring tool which worked just fine. The only thing that I disliked was that the formula for cutting the new strings made my strings way too long. I had a 6 foot by 6 foot shade with 3 lift strings. And with all that string I was constantly tripping over and tangling up the string while I was working. Not to mention all the string I wasted. If I ever have to do this again I would know that it is OK to use less string. But even so, I saved a lot of money restringing my blind vs. buying a new one. Thank you for your great instructions!
Very informative vid. I'm a fisherman so had some 80lb dacron fishing line and used it. You covered all the challenges in this repair. Thank You!
Oh, Jim, what a FANTASTIC suggestion! Darn; wish I'd read your comment/suggestion before using a traditional cord sold by a "fix-your-shade" Web site. Darn, darn, darn! Well, I'm certainly prepared for the next shade-cord that's due to snap before I get up to those Pearly Gates. I use fishing line for myriad other uses/fixes, but am sore from not thinking of this for the shade. I hope others are smarter than I am to read your comment before buying the traditional-shade-cord-due-to-break-too-soon. Thanks much.
We don’t recommend using fishing line to repair any type of blind or shade. While the material is very strong, it will quickly cut through the plastic components of the shade, creating gouges and grooves that will hurt the operation of the shade. It is best to replace the cord with blind cord. The cord we carry is specifically made for blinds and shades, and is used by all major US window covering manufacturers. If the cord on your shade is breaking often, it may be traveling over a rough spot or a groove that has been worn in one of the plastic components. Next time you have it down and apart, I’d check all of the parts and see if anything needs to be replaced.
This video helped me to repair my Levelor shade!
Absolutely Perfect video. Thank you so much!
This is very useful and may save me lot of money. Thank you so much for making this video
This was a fabulous video. Got them fixed!
absolutely fantastic - thank you
Thank you for the video! I fixed my shade!
Very comprehensive and easy to follow. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much! Helped me save my landlords about $150!
This video is very clear and helpful. Thank you so much. I just got my blinder repaired in a shop. If I had seen this earlier, I would do it by myself.
Thank you a million. Awesome video.
Excellent instructions! Thank you for helping me fix my blind!
Thanks! Glad to help!
Wow! I did it. A little patience and some flexible wire instead of the threading tool shown and it was done. You really do need a weirdly long needle, so be sure you have that before you start or else there will be great frustration and maybe some yelling;)
Thank you sooo much. This saved me 500$
Thank you so much! It was really helpful!
Very easy to do by watching this instruction
Good video but not my model of Bali. Mine was a little more complex but this video helped me with the basics!
Very helpful video.
Amazing explanation! Thanks a lot!
Better if done with a friend (2 people)
Good instructions. Some notes from my fix of some 13 year old Bali blinds: using the formula I would have 3 strings at 186 inches each. I was able to use 3 130 inch strings, trimming the nearest 2 to the lock but just barely making it with the 3rd (furthest from lock). The Bali shades did not require me to remove the bottom piece as the holes and plugs are exposed, so check this on your shades before removing the bottom piece. My Bali shades also had no top screw. I was also able to avoid using the wire tool by tying the new strings on to the old ones and pulling these though the cord lock.
I’m so glad that I read your comment! I am about to do this to one of my blinds - and while watching the video, I actually was wondering if I could just attach the new string to the old one to pull it through the cord lock. Thanks to your comment, I am going to do it this way - seems easier. Thanks again!
I'm going to use this!
very clear photography
I just got quote of $1250 to replace my Bali honeycomb shades because string broke in one of the shades. I'm planning to try to do it myself to save money. Thank you for posting.
We are here to help you with your repairs! Please reach out with any questions.
Very appreciative of the video. Thought i would just have to buy a new blind. But really! A "wire restring tool"! It's a piece of WIRE! Nevertheless; we do appreciate the demonstration. A hint if you can't find the dark brown replacement string like the color that came with my blinds; liquid brown shoe polish makes for a great match.
Rec'd and enjoyed your you tube article; one problem though, I'm working on a double shade. How do I work on (re-string) one side while leaving the other side intact as it's OK.
Thanks in advance,
-Carol
I've done this successfully a couple of times now. One (perhaps obvious) caveat - you have to have the shade fold itself up properly to get the needle through. Often, if one side breaks while someone is pulling the shade up, it will bow out or wrinkle, causing some of the folds to invert themselves. You have to tease them back into place. I used a long thin object (a bicycle spoke, since I happened to have one) to work the folds back out from the inside. Once all the folds are in place, use the rubber band to hold them while you push the needle through.
Mark - that's a great tip! Getting the fabric to fold back up correctly can be hard sometimes.
I seem to have a blind that needs new pull strings. However it is "double strung" and has a pulley at the bottom. Any suggestions?
Great video, Easy to follow. Could use a little more specificity on exactly where the string comes out the front of the string block. I suggest a magnetized screwdriver for replacing the set screw.
THANK YOU
Your video was very easy to follow and I'm nearly complete. I had to order the 2 mm cording; however when removing the original cording, it was nearly half the diameter. Will I still be able to use or do I need to find a thinner diameter before I put the assembly back together?
Vicki - Thanks for your question. The correct size string for this type of shade is 1.2mm. Is that what you replaced the string with? If you only have 2.0mm string, that will be too large.
If you don’t have a needle restring tool, you can use a hair pin! Straighten it out, then bend a small loop at the end. It works perfectly!
Great idea and tip!
Thank you very much. Your video is detailed and explicit. You can be proud of your work!
This is a good video with excellent instructions. There are two issues that are not covered in the video:
When stringing the new string, the needle may not be visible on the other side of the shade, due to the size of the shade. Pliers would not work, since they are too wide to go through the string hole.
In my shade the cord block tore the string and needs to be replaced too. There are no instructions on how to replace the cord block. There are instructions, though, on how to restring a new cord block. But I don't think that it is enough.
It would have been great if in your required list of items you had mentioned STRING. You know, the very thing that caused this repair to be needed? It would have also preempted all the "how thick should the string be" questions in the comments below.
Taemian - Thanks for the suggestion. We are always looking for ways to improve our videos and instructions.
I appreciated the video VERY MUCH, but it was for fixing a shade with only one lock box. My curtains go up on one side and down on the other side. Would I be stringing all the strings through those two holes in the shade so both the left and right sides would then work. One of the strings on the right side is broken and I think it went up into the shade itself. My shade therefore only works from up to down. I can not raise it from the bottom up. IN short...how would I deal with that problem?
Catherine - Thanks for your comment. We have a video that shows how to restring a top down/bottom up shade like you described. Here is a link: czcams.com/video/Q0UtQ9f60h8/video.html. Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
you are good
Thank you I save money
After reading all the comments about how fabulously easy this works,, I figured, “ I fix things all the time. I can do this.” Well, two hours later I did, but it was a hellish process. First, starting and pausing the video automatically muted the sound, so stopping, re-starting, changing the mute, restarting, that didn’t work, stop again, fiddle with the mute, re-starting, well....that was a giant pain in the butt. Everything went smooth as silk until it turned out that the needle supplied was far too short for the length of my blinds, so stop again, fabricate a longer needle out of 18g wire, re-start again, and string the cord. Then stop, view, re-wind, deal with audio, re-start, and finally get the cord through the cord lock. Big sigh. Then slide on top rail, which jams when it comes to sliding over cord lock. Apply flathead screw driver. Still jammed. Remove top rail, inspect, re-string, try again. Still jammed. It turns out that the procedure works great with nice, new, tidy shades, but the application of scotch tape is needed to smooth the edges if your shades are five years old. Apply tape. re-string, finally get top rail past cord lock on THIRD try.mAssembly fine from that point on. The video using brand new, small shades does not represent the giant hassle involved in stringing larger, older blinds. Now I have the stuff, I might try it again, but really, for the time I spent, it would have been worth putting the money that I spent on cord toward new shades. Just so you know, the wire stringer is just a piece of wire, about a foot, bent in two and the needle is just a long, blunt needle that you might already have, and it’s too short for longer blinds anyway.
Hi Ann, Thank you so much for your feedback and sharing the challenges and solutions you came up with while repairing your shade. First, I'm sorry the audio was being muted after you paused the video. I haven't heard of this happening on our videos before. I will look into it to make sure others aren't having the same issue with our channel. Also, I'm sorry the needle was too short for your repair, using a piece of 18g wire is a great solution when that happens. There are instances where the fabric gets snagged in the rough edges of the headrail even with new blinds. Taping the fabric to the fabric stiffener is a great idea to get past those. Again, thank you for sharing your experience.
Video is great and I already did two blinds using this video, however that was 7 years ago. Now I’m doing a third blind and find the “proper string length” directions confusing. Please clarify: Do I need 2x the length + width to replace both pull strings? Or do I need 2x the length + the width for EACH of the two strings being replaced?
Received a prompt reply through fix my blinds email. Thank you! You guys are appreciated.
This video is great and I had full confidence that my husband and I could fix the broken string in our cellular shades. I bought the $24 worth of string, needle and wire guide. We got all the way to the step where it was time to remove the headrail. Unfortunately our shades are built so that we have three separate cellular shades all on one 104" wide headrail. Only the middle shade had a broken string. So the problem is that you cannot fix the broken strings on the middle shade unless you remove and restring all of the shades on the headrail. Furthermore (and this is the biggest problem), each one of these Graber shades is attached to a single, continuous, thin piece of plastic so that all three shades must be slid out of the headrail at once. Sounds easy, right?
Keep in mind that this means they all have to pass by a minimum of 2 cord lock "barriers" inside the headrail. During our project, the fabric in one of the shades started coming away from the thin plastic guide, getting snagged up at the closest cord lock. After 45 minutes of gentle struggling, I pulled out the loose cord lock full of fabric snags, (I broke it in the process) and with a box cutter, separated the thin plastic guide so that at least the ripped up shade would be separate from the other two. Needless to say this afternoon project has turned into something that will take weeks and probably another $40-$70 to be completed. I would recommend that fixmyblinds.com suggest in each of their very well-produced videos that it's only prudent to remove one set of shades / blinds from a headrail. If you are working with multiple shades all on one headrail it is a much trickier job. DIY'ers should expect to have some tearing and snagging of the fabric on larger-width shades. How can this be avoided? Is it because our shades are 21 years old? They were in great shape except for the one broken string.
Now I am looking for a video on how to re-attach the top part of the cellular fabric to the thin plastic guide.
Eva, Thanks for your comments and sharing your experience. Fixing a three-on-one head rail shade is difficult. Because the cord locks can't be removed without breaking them, it makes for a very frustrating and tedious process. (It's always that center shade that needs the new cord.) How did this repair turn out in the end? Please let us know if we can offer you any additional support.
We ended up purchasing new blinds from a local dealer who could get the exact same color and material from Graber. The new ones will be "cordless" so that should be nice. (It was a free upgrade.) But we have the experience under our belts now in case another set of single-shade blinds in the house needs to be restrung. And we have all the strings cut to length and ready to thread.
Where can I buy the cords?
You might consider buying 80lb Dacron fishing line, as suggested about a year ago, by Jim Henderson (see below). That material is hella strong, is not supposed to stretch. Superb idea I'd like others to consider before buying traditional shade-cord, which eventually will again break.
Hi Anna, We don’t recommend using fishing line to repair any type of blind or shade. While the material is very strong, it will quickly cut through the plastic components of the shade, creating gouges and grooves that will hurt the operation of the shade. It is best to replace the cord with blind cord. The cord we carry is specifically made for blinds and shades, and is used by all major US window covering manufacturers. If the cord on your shade is breaking often, it may be traveling over a rough spot or a groove that has been worn in one of the plastic components. Next time you have it down and apart, I’d check all of the parts and see if anything needs to be replaced.
I have gotten to this point 4:17. However, I can't a hook down to the strings. There is no opening at top to thread the hook. Any suggestions?
Hi James, Is your headrail totally enclosed? Is that what you mean? If possible, would you please email us at service@fixmyblinds.com with a few pictures of your blind and the cord lock area? We'd love to take a look and provide some specific directions.
Great video, where can I buy 1.6 mm replacement string (cord) at a retail store versus on-line?
+lapar46 Other than www.fixmyblinds.com you can try a local company that sells blinds.
Can I do this with old motorized blinds??? Where would I get a cord lock? Same as string?
Hi Katherine, We don't have any parts or instructions to convert a motorized shade to a string operated shade. As far as we are aware, it's not possible to do that conversion because the top headrail is usually different on a motorized shade vs a string-operated shade.
I cannot feed the new cord through the cord lock, as it appears as if the cord lock is in place. Very frustrating trying to release it. Any suggestions?
Kevin - Is the string stuck inside your cord lock?
My Bali blinds go up and down by hand, with no exterior string that you usually pull on traditional styles. How do I determine string length for this style?
For cordless operating shades like yours, you just measure the overall length of the shade and add 12 inches. That's the length for EACH string. But, the process of replacing string in cordless shades is pretty different than the standard ones. We don't have any instructions or videos for restringing cordless shades at this time.
Thanks for the video. My Bali Cellular shade is stuck in raised position. Is there a way to fix it? Thanks!
Is the shade cordless or do you pull on strings to lift it up/down?
Thanks for the reply! I pull on strings to lift it up or lower it. It is stringed on both sides. The shade is now stuck on the topmost position and cannot be lowered (the strings are stuck and do not respond to pulling).
Try to push up on the bottom rail while unlocking the cord. Sometimes that helps. Otherwise, take the shade down out of the window and investigate. Perhaps the string is stuck inside the locking mechanism.
I have a Bali cellular shade over my 6 ft sliding door. There are 2 separate shade sections which can be individually raised/lowered. The cord locks are on opposite ends. I cannot slide the top bar away from the cord lock. Do you have a video which covers this case? If not, can you give me some guidance?
Thurman, Thanks for your question. We do not have a specific video showing how to remove the fabric when there are two shades on one long headrail. It is difficult to remove the shades on those sometimes. The shade fabric is most likely getting hung up on the cord lock, but there are also cord guides that sit on the top of the fabric inside the headrail that can get turned wrong and cause problems. To remove the fabric, I recommend sticking a flat butter knife into the end of the headrail and pressing the fabric down so it can slide past the cord lock. Do not remove the cord lock; it will be destroyed, and there are no replacements available for the older style locks. Please let me know if you have any further questions or run into any other hangs ups. - Gretchen
Thank you. That worked. There were 2 plastic cord guides that were hitting the cord lock. Hopefully that will also work for reassembly.
@@thurmanharper2691 It should. It can be tricky to get the fabric back in, but it is possible with a little patience. Keep the flat butter knife handy!
One side done. Thanks for your help. The butter knife worked for disassembly AND reassembly.
@@thurmanharper2691 That's great!!
Sorry, but it seems there is an omission when it comes to the 2x length plus 1 width dimension. Do you cut this in half? Not clear.
I apologize for any confusion. The video only demonstrates cutting one string, but in reality, two separate strings were cut and utilized for repairing the shade. To fix your shade, you will need to cut each string into a separate piece, with each piece measuring (2 times the length of your shade) plus the width of your shade.
What size is the string that you used? I ordered 1.8 mm is that right?
Melody - This shade takes the 1.2mm string. 1.8mm is too large.
DO NOT remove the strings unless and until you really need to. This otherwise excellent video assumes the strings are broken or shot. Mine were fine. My only problem turned out to be the cheap-cheap-cheap plastic washers that the strings tied around at the end. Two of my 3 washers had broken, so the strings no longer had anything to hold onto. I left the strings in place, tied them to small actual metal washers, and all was well.
The materials to replace are so cheap, I'd rather replace everything all at once while I have the blinds off the window. If one plastic bit has gone stale and brittle, all the others are likely soon to follow, and the string is likely getting old too.
I am replacing a broken string today, but when I popped all the little plastic bits out, they all disintegrated.
Although if it's possible to fix a bottom plastic bit without removing the blinds from the window at all, I will definitely do that!
What size string do you need. Where can you get it.
Hi Karen. The Graber and Bali cellular shades use a 1.2mm size string. You can purchase that on our website here: www.fixmyblinds.com/part-categories/cord-string-and-loops/lift-cord-string/1-2mm-string.html.
This may work well with a 24 inch shade but it does not work with a 6 ft. shade very difficult to get the fabric and plastic top worked through the top and string clamp. It is not as easy as they make it seem. realistically most windows are at least 4 to 5 ft. high
I broke the connector and would’ve got my ass beat if this video didn’t exist
Where do u get the lift sting from
You can purchase it on our website at this link: fixmyblinds.com/collections/lift-cord-string
thumbs up!
I got to the part about getting the fabric under the cording device and I could not get the fabric to slide underneath it. Bummer.
Hi Myra, it can be tricky to get that fabric back under the cord lock. Use a small, thin screwdriver or butter knife to hold the fabric down while you push it underneath the lock. If you continue to have trouble with it or run into any other issues, reach out to us at service@fixmyblinds.com. We're happy to help!
@@fixmyblinds Thank you for your reply. I just am seeing this. I ended up getting a new one that is cordless. I had my blind for almost 10 years so I figure I got my money's worth out of it!
I had my cellular shades re strung by a professional, twice and still have cords that get tangled constantly and can not close the shades properly without playing with the string and shade. If a pro can't fix it, does that mean the mechanism is too old???? The shades are 10 years old.
Dawn, There could be a few things going on here. How long has it been since your shades were restrung? If the strings are running over a rough surface inside the shade, it can cause them to tangle/twist. I'd love to help troubleshoot what maybe be going on or if it's time for a replacement. If you'd like, please email us at service@fixmyblinds.com.
How do I find a needle long enough and where do I buy that?
Hi Dylan - You can make your own needle out of a length of floral or craft wire. Or, you can purchase one from us here: fixmyblinds.com/products/wire-restring-tool
Do you make 2 strings?
Linda, I'm not sure I understand what you're asking. Can you please explain further?
@@fixmyblinds I have the same question. Do you use the length X 2 X the width for both sides or is that the entire length of string for both?
Troubleshooting would be nice. My end caps won’t come off😕
Off of the top rail or bottom rail? If possible, send us some pictures of the end caps and we can let you know if there's a trick to removing them. Our email is service@fixmyblinds.com.
@@fixmyblinds Thanks. Top and bottom are stuck. Manufacturing tag says they are made in 2005. I’ll send pictures to email.
My restring kit didn't come with the wire to pull the cord through so now I have to wait for Amazon to send a kit that includes the wire. Don't make the same mistake I did.
Anyone notice blood at 3:38?