Really High Head Head Pressure on Ruud Heat Pump Package
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2022
- Customer called because sometimes her heat pump would blow cold. System had really high head pressure. Here’s what I found.
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I always weigh what I recover,just a mental mind satisfaction for me I guess. Keep strong brother!!
Only way to do it.
Your a great tech you perform all kinds of tests to find the problem...very smart n experiansed man.
One of the best HVAC Channels on CZcams. I Learn a lot from these videos.
Good job, i like to check compressor amps when recovering just to see where it started and where it ends at. Keep it up👍🏼
Love your videos thank you for making
Thank you Curtis interesting problem
Once had to pull out charge from a Rheem condenser the was near double the factory charge. 600 psi R22 is a problem and the compressor did not like it. Thankfully Rheem added a high pressure cut-out, which was not typical of most manufacturers during the R22 era
Installs in FL during this cold days.... Kids never heard of pt chart and charging it by the pressures. All of my recovery tanks full in June. As far as a package unit - I would recover and put critical charge in it ... Never failed on me, never had to go back. Do same thing with split HP's, but do count on linesets size and length. That's cool to see different approach tho.
Great and honest .
this was a puzzler.. stay well
Great one👌🏻
I agree with you it's over charge or metering device not working properly
540 to 340 PSI is a massive difference. That would’ve been going off high pressure like crazy during the summer. Good catch 👍🏻
Well that's always good when you see a random barrel Jack under a house just sitting there in use yeah that's one thing I would never do and no one else should either
6:32 was the bane of my life. That and small attics. Made me want to walk off the job.
Curtis i may miss my guess....but i don't think you like crawling up under those houses. I have always hated having to inspect under my crawl space. I wish they would code them out of existence. Either put in a full basement or build on a slab.
Your amazing...
I have a dual fuel system I installed that's running high head pressure in heat. I did the install. It is the factory charge but only 10-12: of linset. I talked to the factory tech support and they said it could be running at 500+ psi. I still think that's high. I may do the same thing you did and recheck it in a/c this summer. Btw the crawl space does have a unique taste.. lol
Nowadays system is supposed to be charged for 15 ft. Of line set. But, I have recently found that’s not always dependable.
Second that☝🏻
Good practice - to adjust charge in cooling (ID conditions stable, OD ambient high enough, clean coils and sufficient airflow). Retrofits often have insufficient/undersized ductwork in now days wich starving EVAP alot - smthn to keep in mind as well. I had to rip out 2 yr old 21seer Trane(sold and installed by competitor) and replaced it with 14seer because ductwork( enlarging ducts was not an option due to very limited space).
@@HVACGUY yep. With prices on 410... Used to be pretty damn on. 2023 is coming up. We all will be afraid a bit to use those torches. Good thing - industry pushing those HVAC "sharkbites" wich will secure our jobs. 😂
Had a Lennox same issue , weak head pressure switch
Just realized you’re running it in heat mode
Hi bro from west Alabama
Wow that superheat is nuts
That wasn’t superheat. I just had the sensor on hot gas. Lol. Sorry that was misleading
@@HVACGUY A lot is misleading on this channel
@@HVACGUYoh that scared me😂
Well I am not an HVAC technician and nor do I ever want to be but I do watch you and other people because knowledge is power and power is money I do electrical plumbing and a few other things but knowing things that the customer does not know makes me look good and usually throw with money to someone I recommend now granted I know you're not in my neck of the woods or I would recommend you but when it comes down to it knowledge is power and you never stop learning LOL :-) :-)
I have a unit I’m working on currently where a heatpump condensor runs normal pressures but after about 10/15 minutes the pressure on high sides starts to climb until 400s then trips on high head, I was thinking possibly the reversing valve but I would assume my suction would look off the suction stays @120 but the head slowly climbs from 300-400 over the course of 30 minutes any thoughts dryers same temp on both sides inside up unit the accumulator seems to be sweating excessively
Is that bird poop on the blower housing and end bell?
If so, how did it get inside?
If fan speed taps not working,
Why wouldn't you replace motor module ?
do you start with your recovery jug in a vac?
What about maybe weighing out all the refrigerant and checking the data tag to see what the factory charge is? And then weighing that back in
In hindsight I should have asked for approval for the extra time to do so.
Would have been the smarter move. You can’t tell the charge on a heat pump in heat mode without truly weighing it out and in, unlike air conditioning where you can just check sc and sh. Yeah, some manufacturers allow you to block off the outdoor and some have subcooling charts and pressure ranges but it’s never truly accurate I’ll tell ya.
Blower won’t stop , it stays on to alert the customer there’s a problem
Package unit weigh in factory charge and it will be good to go
I think some of those rheem motors only have certain speed taps programmed
Agreed moved heat tap and in cool mode x13 did not run blower
Good thing i did maintenance on both modes after blower clean, was just looking for better temp rise, my own system
did you weigh the tank before and after? Been selling Rheem / Rudd last 15 yrs and have seen this several times. Over charged right out of the box
I weighed before and after. I recovered 8 ounces. This system is four years old though.
@@HVACGUY IMO 8 OZ wont make that big of a pressure difference. Id be looking at the TXV. Its a matter of pounds over when its happened here.
Is it normal for a few ounces to make such a big difference in pressure? I have a 6 month old 5 ton Amana HP that keeps showing a "low refrigerant" message. Installer (a reputable company with multiple techs) has been here 7 times in last thirty days. Once with Amana rep. The low ref message shuts off the HP and turns on the auxiliary heat strips. But when the HP does function for a short period of time (before it gets the low ref msg) it does a poor job of heating. The vapor line (big line) never gets warm. I noticed you were at about 140. Installer has tried removing ref and later added some back. I don't know what the pressures are. I am concerned about how finicky HP's are with charge level and if I will need charge adjustment twice a year (summer and winter) just to keep it running correctly. I haven't had a coronary over this yet because it's still under parts and labor warranty but I am worried about cost after the 1 year warranty is up. FWIW, I have a 9000 btu mini split HP in my bedroom and has worked perfectly for the last 3 years. Today in the DFW area, it's 21 degrees and the mini is pumping 80 degree air into the bedroom.
The Reps don’t always have great diagnostic skills, few do. They may be well versed in the literature, but…I’ve told more than one they don’t know what they’re talking about. The SEER rating and outdoor temp have a lot to do with hot gas temp. But, it should get hot at some point. If there have been that many visits by one company, I think I’d call someone else, and make it clear what you’ve been through. I know you don’t want to fork out the money, but if you can prove the other company has messed up, they might reimburse you for your efforts. I’m curious if your system is R-32 or R-410A. If everything is up to par, you shouldn’t need to add or adjust unless there’s a leak.
Could you recover and weigh it back in being it’s a package unit. I would have been curious how much was in the unit
Yes, that would be an option.
@@HVACGUY either way…. Just subscribed to your channel and enjoying watching them. I’m binge watching your videos at the moment. Good stuff!
youre correct, absolutely what could of been done to avoid coming back twice.
but you don't always have a fresh vacuumed recovery cylinder. so this real world lol. I'm sure he was within 6 oz of factory charge at least
I can’t tell you how many times that’s happened to me I get a call and someone overcharged the unit because a coil, or filter was dirty and they see low suction pressure and just assumed it must be low on Freon. Lol. Or they just Dont know what they are doing. It is weired the customer sais no one has added any Freon. I Dont get that. Strange.
I actually had a little straight air unit one time I really believe someone had added Nitrogen in with the refrigerant. It run perfect, pressures were in the norm but just wouldn’t hardly cool. I didn’t have anyway to know a 100 percent but that seemed to end up being what it seemed to be. You never know what someone has done before you get there.
Overcharged from the factory?
I don’t think so. I believe someone else has been there.
Its a 3 speed 1 2 &3
4&5 taps on some of those are dead like don't go to anything
Was that Mickey Mouse overturned next to the bottle jack when you crawled in?
What does “Two Hous” in the title mean??
That means I don’t know how to spell
@@HVACGUY Ohhhh!! Lol!!!
Doesn't anybody do cfm formula anymore. Cfm = btuh/ ( delta-t x 1.08) for gas furnace temp rise formula. For electric it's cfm = (V x A x 3.41) divided by ( delta-t x 1.08) then you know for sure whether it's an airflow or refrigerant problem. If your not sure then do this formula 1st....hvac guy would of been there half as long.
Are these formulas only good for heat?
@@biblebloopers946 no its good for ac but you have to run the heat and fan must be in high speed..easy when it's a psc motor. This will tell you if your getting 400cfm per ton thru the system with high speed fan.
@@97Napkins what I'm asking is this formula can only be applied to heat mode, correct?
@@biblebloopers946 that is correct
@@97Napkins when you say that cfm=btu/ (Delta t × 1.08) how do i know what the btus are for the heat pump and furnace? My guess is if it's a heat pump then the tonnage will tell you. For example, a 2 ton equals 24,000 btus. Is this right?
Why didn't you just pull it all out and weigh it back in,the charge should be on the name plate. 🤔
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🎯🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
Should’ve made sure I would have the time and approval to do so.