Painting Field-Applied Camo with Tamiya Paints for Scale Models
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- čas přidán 24. 03. 2018
- Today we will look at painting this StuG in a base yellow with a "field-applied" green camouflage pattern over top. This is fun and allows us to be a little more messy than you usually would aim to be with a more refined camouflage pattern.
Base Colour: 50%/25%/25% XF-60/XF-4/XF-2, then I applied thinner at an equal ratio to the paint. Sprayed at 25 psi.
Camo Colour: 50%/50% XF-65/XF-71 with a thinner ratio of about 2:1 to the paint. Sprayed at about 10 psi.
My airbrush is a Badger 105 Patriot. Nothing top-of-the-line, but as you can see, you don't need anything too crazy to get a nice camo pattern; just thin down your paint and cut down on the pressure!
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated. - Zábava
I’m really stand-offish with airbrushing because I’m not confident on mixing or application. But watching this have me some confidence to try again!
Reason I don't use one yet, one of these days
As an older Modeller, I really enjoy your videos. Even an old dog can learn a new trick... 😊. Keep up the good work !!
Excellent hoping to see.ww2.PeaDot.pattern but this came out really well
Hey Evan, nice meeting you at HeritageCon this past Sunday. Nice to see a young guy getting involved in this hobby and teaching us 'old guys' a few tricks.
Fantastic video, Evan. Some very nice tips and techniques there.
I honestly think you've done a great job man those were some good tips like the paper towel line check, helped me out 👍
Just started the vid and can already tell it's gonna be a helpful tutorial!
GREAT demonstration, buddy!
Nice work Evan, well explained and filmed, got a great look at the technique!
Another excellent video, Evan. Good stuff.
I haven't watched too many of your videos yet but I do like what I've seen so far. You show us exactly what you're doing and your commentary is very informative. I too have a Badger 105 Patriot - my first proper/expensive airbrush. I found it difficult to maintain a consistent air/paint mix with the 105 also, but I now have an Iwata HP-C Plus which has an adjustable stop so I can get the exact same amount of paint coming out whenever I want. This is the same airbrush that Andy over at his Hobby Headquarters uses, which is how it came to my attention in the first place.
Hello! Thank you so much for this video! After watching it, I finally learned how to draw thin lines and beautiful and complex camouflage! I thinned the paint and adjusted the pressure as you said, and I began to draw well!
I'm very glad to hear that!
@@Panzermeister36 Now I am building Stug 3 and will apply three color camouflage on it! It will look cool!
Thank you for doing what you do. You are so much help to us beginners. Helps keep me motivated
Really damn impressive job on that camo!!
Thank you!
Very nicely done sir!!!!
Dammit....liked before the video even started, I've got a problem! 😉😄😂
Always enjoy your videos Evan, keep them coming mate! 👍
Superb control to get lines like that with the 105. Very impressive
Thank you very much Mark :)
For someone who says he is not too good at air brushing... I think you are the bomb !
Another great show and model, I think you're putting out the best 1/35 content on CZcams.
Re video ideas, more model techniques would be great. I really like the weathering process video you made a not too long ago. Maybe something similar for a desert vehicle? I'd also be interested to see your model stash and equipment you use for your videos.
I am a complete novice but i found your tutorial very easy to follow and i have learned the basics thanks.
As they say try try again your doing a good job and thanks for sharing good luck to you london
I just subscribed to your channel for two reasons. I have seen posts where you display extensive knowledge on German (Third Reich in particular) Camo schemes of the time, and second your painting and weathering hobby skills are top level. Very professional and superb paint jobs. Great channel and great work.
Thank you very much! Hope you enjoy my stuff :)
I do, VERY VERY high quality work.
Panzermeister36... There are only two sites I visit on CZcams, you and Andy's Hobby HQ. You both get to the point and have a great presentation. No hesitation and your voice is very calm and the information given is always spot on. You give the colors you use (I'm a Tamiya guy as well as Vallejo) the PSI on the airbrush, and you get right to the point. You state that you are not the best in airbrushing which I think helps us 'hackers' out here in internet land. But you do have talent and I personally feel better about my abilities after watching you. Thank you for this site and keep up the great work. And NEVER do a box/kit review, ever!!! Those are useless and boring. Anyone can open a box and look what is inside. Keep it up, sir...
Then you miss out some of the best stuff ever. Like the legend "Scale Model Workshop" here on youtube. He is a master of modeling since many many years.
@@Octabust and "Plasmo Plastic Models", he's excellent
Andy doesnt know wtf he is talking about. He calls a primer coat a shadow coat and insists it's not primer. Also he pours that tamiya extra thin on everything when it's not a general purpose cement
Just to name a few....
Good job and thanks for the tips 👍
You do damn nice work. Your tank looks terrific! I never could get my 105 to paint that fine, but I’m sure I didn’t have the paint mixed right and I now I had the psi set too high. I’m using the Creos PS-274 now and I’ve had great luck with it so far. Anyway, thanks again for sharing your stuff!
Nice vid,good airbrush! I like model master dunkelgelb, olivegrun, rotbraun. Their colors are spot on.
I love that camo look where it looks like someone just grabbed some spray cans and filled it in real quick, a guy who lives near me has a truck that he painted like that and it looks so sick
I'm like you, I always thought Tamiya dark yellow was a bit too dark out of the bottle. I really like your color combination for dark gelb. It has a nice yellow warm tone without being too dark. I may copy your formula for use on a Tiger tank I'm working on.
Great video again! I you are looking for a good idea for future videos, you could do a review of your books. And by that i mean to analise and point out the diffrences and variations on like a factory in which tank was build, or some other usefull info and tips. Or to point some unusual reerences and weird things that they did to tank!
Love your videos and pleae keep it up
This really inspires me to make I diorama using a verilidian (if that's even how you spell it) production's figure set I found and my LHS. It's 2 Germans actually applying the white wash to their tank and it's really sloppy. Thank you
I'm working on a Stug right now and trying to figure out what camo to do. I have already chipped it and going to add camo to it for a little depth. I like the field applied method as it's unpredictable and no formal lines are needed to adhere to. I've watched this video several times so far along with your weathering on Stugs for some guidance.
It has long been known that the first thing to go from the new tank was the spraygun ! That's why you see many hard-edged schemes. Another thing that got more common later in the war was only painting the vertical surfaces and not the top of the engine deck or turret roof. They were in a hurry usually to finish. I like the early pattern side skirts, what kit are they from ? Great video, my friend. Very informative.
I'm going crazy! i ordered my Badger 105 patriot airbrush yesterday and now I'm waiting for it... lol... compressor supposed to be here tomorrow!
Very nice and informative video.
I'm the same. I start off with a rough idea of where the stripes should be, but as I go I end up just winging it and hoping the end result looks believable.
Looks great buddy
Interesting take on camo, nicely done. I thin most paints at least 50% for the base coat (15-20psi) and 60%-70% for camo colours (10-15psi) and more for weathering. Also, use at least 10psi and try to be a bit more steady with the spraying, will help reduce paint drying on the tip.
I used to keep a cotton bud with thunner nearby and take the crown off but now i just use vallejo fliw improver. Few drops per ab cup and 0 issues.
Would love to see how you paint wheels. Great video!
nice video ....... you do a good job!!!! keep it up
Thank you!
Well it's that time of the year again Merry Xmas to you an family
Thank you Terry. Merry Christmas to you and your family too!
Hey man I love your videos. I started building model tanks about a year and a half ago and ive learned a ton from watching your videos. I really appreciate it! But one question. What would you say the best airbrush for model tanks would be?? my cheap master airbrush sucks and im looking for a new one. I dont know much and they seem really expensive and confusing to choose the right one. I want something that can do very fine lines for say 1/72 camo but still be able to spray thicker paint. Please let me know what you think the best airbrush for model tanks is! Thanks!
we should make sloppy camo a thing :) more often than not it was sloppy, sometimes even worse than that. You did a very nice job at explaining your procedure there Evan!
Thank you Michael :D I sure would enjoy for sloppy camouflages hehe
Sloppy camo GB!!!!
I bought a Panther V Toon Tank and I'm going to use it for my first ever airbrushed model. Wish me luck and StuG with it.
+Christopher Merritt sounds awesome! I may do one of those toon kits myself...M5 Stuart always catches my eye. Good luck with the Panther and with the airbrushing :)
1 year later lol, i hope you did it succesfuly ;)
The other option, does your airbrush have a trigger lock at the back? One which allows you to lock your trigger at a specific point?
If so you could use that, once you find a good spot at which you get the correct line style you're after, just lock it in that position and away you go.
just watched a vid where you mentioned you werent a fan of metallic paints.I agree on armour they can look flat and textured in acrylics,or react if enamel based.For inside of Fsprocket teeth.and tips of track guide horns,even tools if you want them factory painted,use v.soft pencil,the layers create a different surface texture as well as metal finish.You can blend it too.Done sparingly it looks good and the weathering pigments for mud etc will have more surface tension on the layer -s of graphite than paint.A couple of pencils from 4B to 9B is all you need.If you overlap layers you can get different colour hues from different grades of softness.Wouldnt swear i can tell,but its easy and addictive.I justed used it to show where crew sliding over turret ring painted white to get in and out tiger turret rear escape hatch.How i couldve done it with paint in 2 minutes? With your skill in chipping youve already nailed it.Ordering MA o type,thanks for reviews.The RFM panther is the best kit ive ever seen,after building thier(revosys)RFM VK3601 kit which was a pimped dragon style kit,compared to the RFM Tigers which resembled a pimped Academy y tiger kit with int.The panther was like a pimped Takom kit it was even better.A stug seems the next obvious theme for them.They are already going to use old tiger moulds for the new sturmtiger.A stug kit with the quality and option for a stug would be worth waiting for.The mk III turret in the VK 36 kit was very good as were the other german generic parts,like exhaust system and rear deckplate,fenders jack etc.Heres hoping,there were spare unused parts for the kit,and it was the first ever mould for that kit.Heres hoping.
I`m starting to think you have a StuG obsession...lol.
personally they seem to just have a lot of character to them, same for the early M4A1 shermans with the rounded cast hulls as opposed to the later angular welded plates
7:28 So Beautiful!
good video ! thx!!!👍
Your videos have been very helpful! I use a second hand Badger 150 that came with one needle (unknown size), not fine enough for thin lines like the ones in this video. Can you recommend a needle size for fine lines?
Thanks!
+NorCal MTB I'm pretty sure the needle size is the same or very close to that of the 105 Patriot here. 0.3mm or whatnot. You can't use a smaller diameter needle since it won't seal the system; you need a different needle tip.
I'm just using a needle with a more gradual point so that I have a little better control over paint flow. I'm not sure what it is called though as it just came with the thing along with some standard tipped needles.
I use xf 59 for the yelow
Cool camou tutorial..I have a question regarding dull coating the model. Do you recommend using laquer dull coat (tamiya ts-80 or testors) to seal acrylic paint? The matt or flat coat might mess up the paint and decals. Do you have a tip on how to seal the paint and decals with matt finish without eating up the paint and decals?...thanks Mate!
So long as the varnish is sprayed on in a few thin coats, then it shouldn't react with any of the acrylics on the model. Lacquers are the best varnishes as they are very durable.
Any problem with tip-dry during the fine-line painting? Does using lacquer thinner lessen tip-dry? Thanks! Love your channel!
Messer109 Acrylics tend to dry more quickly, one of the disadvantages of using them in an airbrush. Keep airbrush at 10-15 psi and maintain a steady flow of paint. An occasional wipe with a cloth or cotton bud moistened with acrylic thinner (or lacquer/cellulose thinner with Tamiya paints) should keep the paint flowing.
lacquer thinner is the best for really thin lines. it allows you to dilute paint to a 1 part paint to 10 part thinner ratio and paint at extreme low PSI. The negative is that it is strong enough to damage O rings so clean your airbrush thoroughly after using it.
I've got a question for you. I've noticed you and virtually every one else, never use a single action airbrush even for gross work like painting the base color. Why is that ? I've always used a single action brush although I owned a double action once but I'll never be able to use one because of nerve damage in my hand. But I would rather just brush paint a camo scheme sometimes. I've never seen anyone do that either. What have I missed ?
Great, thank's
Very nice model and guide. Although personally, I like mixing XF-60 (50%) + XF-59 (25%) + XF-2 (25%) for RAL 7028. It gives a more sandy yellowish finish
Background music that doesn't blow your ears off 😁😁😁😁 other CZcamsrs take note .
I plan on getting a airbrush kit and was wondering does it put off a strong paint smell when using the airbrush, like the paint cans do? Because I plan to use it inside a bedroom and didn’t know if it will put off a strong paint smell like the cans do. Thanks
+Backpackpocalypse it does make a smell. It's not as bad as the smell from cans since you can control the spray with an airbrush and spray a lot less, but there is still a smell. You could get a small spray booth to fix that issue though...it's essentially a big open box you set up that goes behind you model, and it has a small fan and filter in it. That way, the excess spray will drift into the filter and the fumes will be taken care of. Hope that helps!
Heya, thanks for the great video/s. I like the little sandbag thing you rest your models on as you work and was wondering did you make it or buy it? If so where?
+wetwareoz it's just a paperweight I've had for a long time.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks for the response, I've got some spare leather, I think I'll make one.
A very nice look, not at all sloppy in my opinion. It's not....stark, I guess you'd say.
Grandpa Weber I
Très beau travail monsieur
je suis abonné
merci
very good work mister
i am suscribed
thank you
Merci beaucoup :D
Excellent camo work. Your DY mix is right on par with the Gunze Sanyo Mr. Color DY which is what I use. You could also leave out the yellow & just add white because later panzer DY was very pale from what I've read.
Came out nice and clean..air brush work makes it go that way! Nice work!!! Be careful with ur panel lines, easy to make somthin so clean appear real filthy but guess that's ww2 armor!
Great idea,i was wondering how airbrushing could replicate 'winter camo'.field applied with mop? and whitewash..i cut the odd bolt off the corners of the stug suspension and made a small hole in its place.Now im gonna grind some coffee and sit and find out how its done.Cheers.
Hey Darron, I'm doing that sort of winter camo on my StuG III Ausf.C/D from Bronco currently.
please get yourself a couple of soft pencils,when you layer 2 different grades,4B and 7B or 6B and 9B it gives a more to scale reflective surface.You just layer the pencils over dark paint base.With size of OVM in 1\35 scale metal paint looks good but is very flat......I have that 08 expo st IIIG ready for a winter scheme...bronco? Dragon 2017 hummel with w\kett. The instructions were B\W photo copies of Nashorn colour photo instructions from 2005 with 15 mistakes!.so bronco is looking like a good buy at moment compared to dragon...sorry rant over.will be watching.
Hey nice video buddy, its been a long while since I watched your content. I was sick but I started to build again. I'm in the process of finishing a STUG III like your but from Dragon. It had no side plates. Its a late war 1945 Ausf G final production. I was thinking of a 2 tone green camoflage to kinda copy the heavy Panzer Abteilung in Budapest. what do you think? I'm trying to do a lot of research on this one because its gonna end up in a Diorama. PM or Email me if you want. Good as always, I like your new airbrush. I think im due to change as well. Probably go with a Iwata.
Should I shade panel lines?
Nice stuff, Evan. Yes, German camo is completely unpredictable. Anything is possible. Were you using the fine tip on your Patriot when making the camo? My Pat only came with one needle (II). I think the Fine is a III? Model on :)
Hey Russ :) Thank you! I was just using the standard needle and nozzle for this camo. I bought a Badger Krome recently so that may give me better results.
What compressor do you use?
may i know...what size needle airbrush when u do camouflage ?
Have you tried XF 88,dark yellow 2?
I honestly think your the only other person I've heard say Tamyias dark yellow just doesn't look right! I can always tell if someone has used it on a German vehicle! Compared to the RAL numbers it's comp different to my eye, but that'll be another colour that changes in history notes next like Matilda n whathave you haha!
They new Tamiya XF-88 is a nicer colour. But I still find myself adding some other colours to the mix...
Hi , i use a revell sterter kit airbrush, when painting the airbrush conatantly pumps out air even when im not pulling the triggure , this makes it hard to paint camoes and even base coats as it splatters every were 😐 how can i fix this , if not what can i do ( buying a different airbrush/compressor)
Thanks..
Airable 1 you need to get a double action airbrush with a compressor.
With the badger are you using a .5 or .3 needle? I’m using a .5 on an iwata and considering going to .3. I make 1/35 afvs
+Marco Musc I'm pretty sure it's a .5. I have another airbrush that's a .3 and I use it only for sure fine camouflage work. The .5 is good enough for most work.
I know this is an old thread but what’s a good primer color to use under Tamiya XF-60 or TS 3
I tried nato black but it comes out to dark at the washers and with the tricolor camouflage Is pershading really necessary and can I do pre-shading After the paint is on with oil’s
+Android 13 I usually just use the light grey Tamiya primer. XF-60 is quite dark itself, so I usually add some white and bright yellow to it to make it a lighter colour. The new Tamiya colour XF-88 is much better.
Thanks for replying when I saw your recent video I hope you get over your cold I live in the states and I suffered with it for two months so I should use light gray primer and just apply black around the lines instead of painting the whole tank black
Hi, what needle size are you using for the base coat and for the camouflage lines?
Just the needle the comes in the Badger 105. Think it's a 0.3
Whoops it's a 0.5
If you lay small parts on a piece of window screen when you painting the air pressure will hold them in place.
Excellent idea!
Great informative vid! Can you suggest a good air brush...….Thanks...….Steve
+DieselStrom I'd recommend the Badger 105 Patriot as a good beginner airbrush. I still use mine. A Badger Krome is what I use for doing super fine camouflage patterns.
Ok great thanks so much
Hi, I am a newbie to airbrushing and using masking solution and need your expert suggestion on how to properly remove the masking solution without scratching the underlying base paint I applied. I am working on a Tamiya Leopard A4 and the two-color camouflage scheme requires that I first airbrush a layer of red brown, applied masking solution to outline the camouflage pattern, then airbrush the olive drab over the red brown and the masking solution. But maybe I applied too thin a layer of masking solution or too thick a layer of the olive drab paint, when I tried to remove the masking solution using
a small tweezers, I always scratched the underlying red brown paint. And since I applied a thin layer of masking solution (I used the Mr. Hobby Masking Sol R), it’s become difficulty to discern the contour of the masking solution under the 2 layer of the olive drab paint! Do you have any suggestion? As a last resort, I might just spray over the scratched surface and use the one-color camouflage scheme. Thanks for any suggestions!
This is a great video but I just have one question, how did you paint the tools and the wheels? Also how much did the airbrush cost?
I paint the details like tools and rubber tyres later with a paintbrush. A badger 105 is a mid-range airbrush. $70 if you find a good deal.
Panzermeister36 Thank you so much!
Panzermeister36 Sorry for so many questions but, what’s the point of paint thinner?
I know this is an old video but was wondering if you change tips needle sizes etc when you're spraying camo
I was looking in to getting that Badger 105 that you recommended and I noticed it goes down to a point 3 mm tip
I only have the stock tip on my 105. I think I have one of the smaller needles (blue end) which I use for more control on some camouflage, but typically I'll use the stock needle too.
@@Panzermeister36 stock tip is .5mm
Yeah, that's what I use. The detail needle is still the same base diameter since the internal mechanism that holds the needle is a fixed size. So the detail needle just has a more gradual point and gives more control when using the stock nozzle. But it would be even better with the corresponding nozzle which I don't have.
SUPERBE 👍👍👍👍👍
Do you use a varnish to protect your paint when weathering and if you do what varnish do you use?
I will have one up in a month or so where I show all of that.
A weathering video where I show it is what I mean :)
What needle size setup on your airbrush you usually use for painting?
The standard one in the badger 105 which I think is a 0.3?
It's a 0.5
☆STUG LIFE☆
Nothing to do with this video but was wondering wich kaizen tracks to use for panzer 4 ausf h to be accurate
You'd probably be good with any of them as long as they're not the super early ones, but I don't think Kaizen even makes those. I would personally so with the "lightweight" ones that he makes as those are type 5.
Panzermeister36 thanks i just got the new academy with decal zimm and the tracks are garbage but great kit for academy
im curious about the leather bags
Leather bags?
i didn't realize Tamiya paints need to be thinned that much, that's why my airbrush was clogging so much, also I spray 1 coat, I'll try 3 or 4 thin coats now.
+Tiberius Maximus glad my video helped you out there! Yes, these paints require thinning at least 50% with thinner...I usually do 60%. That certainly should help to solve your clogging issues :)
I know their were two different 80s performers named ant!
Atom & adam?
Jman👀
What tip size?
Camo is to break up straight lines and prominent features. You will get a better look with planning of the shape to be used to break an edge.
You're not wrong, but like I was saying, this is based off of a photograph.
👍
why laquer thinner and not acrylic thinner??
Lacquer thinner makes the paint more durable, and it also makes it spray more smoothly out of the airbrush.
On the battlefield, in ww2, how was this sort of camo applied?
Usually with a spray gun. Sometimes with a paintbrush, but usually it was sprayed. Germans applied camo at repair facilities/field workshops so they had spray equipment there.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank you very much, I greatly appreciate your reply.
So let me get this straight, your using Tamiya lacquer thinner to spray Tamiya acrylics for the Camo? Not the Tamiya airbrush thinner.
Yes. It makes them spray more smoothly.
Will this color combo fit with Tiger I (ver 131)?
No, Tiger 131 is painted in tropical camouflage colours. It was in North Africa, not Europe. So you want to use XF-59 (desert yellow) and XF-49 (khaki/green).
@@Panzermeister36 bro, ty so much, im just gonna order them.
@@Panzermeister36 i can also give you a Photo of model when it will be done. And i should add, that it's gonna be my first tank model ever
Sure. You can find me on Facebook or Instagram using the links in the video description and message me there. Or email at panzermeister36@gmail.com
The music reminds me of bill and Ted when there in the future and music is playing
Was that square zimmerit pre molded?
+Ben St. John no, it is a resin set from ATAK. Dragon does pre mold some StuG kits with the "waffle" zimmerit pattern (Alkett Factory production vehicles), but this pattern here is the Miag Factory "2cm checkerboard" pattern. Dragon does not pre mold this specific pattern, which is why I used the ATAK set. The set is very good, actually!
Panzermeister36 so it’s a pre cut resin set that you pick out for the specific tank. That’s pretty cool! Another question: have you heard of any way to diy waffle pattern zimmerit?
ya got any more of dem...
stugs?
Paul Ainsworth He has a cabinet full of stugs (idk for sure but he probably does)
He's the StuG Meister, probably has a garage full of them stacked floor to ceiling.
Lol...would be nice if it was a different tank for a change.
It's the same tank you've seen in the past 2 weathering tutorials. I seriously wish I had enough time to be an aerospace engineering student, and build one kit per week, paint one kit per week, weather one kit per week, edit three videos on those per week, but I kind of have to do other things that actually matter.
Have u ever build a panther?
Only one and it was a long time ago. I have a Dragon Panther G to do later this year
name dropper. Good video.
You know I think that Panther video is awesome :)
Anyone else confused by using lacquer thinner with acrylic paints?
Tamiya acrylics aren't water-based acrylics. They're alcohol-based which makes them compatible with lacquer thinner and produces excellent results. You can do the same with Mr.Color, AK Real Color, and Gunze.
@@Panzermeister36 Never knew that, I just use the Tamiya acrylic thinner. the lacquer fumes make me ill. THANKS!
Very nice shows better detail your way
Why is the Video under Entertainment and not (highly-)Education ;)