Full axle rebuild for a GM 10 bolt to handle over 500 horsepower
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2020
- This video is the complete rebuild of the GM 10 bolt 8.5 axle assembly in my 1971 cutlass 442 that i originally bought in high school. In this video I change out the stock 2.56 gear set, open differential and 28 spline axles to a new set of 3.73 Yukon gears, Yukon Grizzly locker and 30 spline Dutchman axles. The video includes information on the following and not necessarily in this order. Identifying axles and gears, parts selection, proper axle disassembly and cleaning, pinion bearing removal, How to make a pinion setup bearing, axle pre assembly and gear ware checks. Pinion bearing install. How to check pinion bearing pre load, how to assemble the carrier, Gearing install, how to check backlash, final axle assembly and proper break in procedures.
Below are the list of parts and contact information for the great companies and people i used to help me make this happen.
Randys Worldwide
www.randysworldwide.com/
1-425-347-1188
Tate Hudson ext 5573
Parts included in this build
YGLGM8.5-3-30 30 spline grizzly locker
YK GM8.5-HD rear master rebuild kit
YHCC-GM8.5-S rear nodular iron diff cover
YY UB-004 1350 & 1410 U joint
YESRP Yukon extended gear warranty
YESLOCKER Yukon extended locker warranty
YG GM8.5-373 Yukon 8.5 gearset
Dutchman axles
dutchmanaxles.com/index.php
503-257-6604
TJ
Custom 30 spline axles
If you like the video at all hit like and subscribe. Thanks for watching!
Jake - Auta a dopravní prostředky
So this was a good video, straight forward, no history on the evolution of carriers, good hands on stuff, I like the ingenuity things like “If you don’t have this you could also use…”, good stuff, good job
Man, this is an amazing video! Great work!
Thank you for taking your time and patience in making this video. It wil greatly help a person like me with little money to have to take my vehicle the shop and little knowledge of automotive fixings to get it done correctly. 👍👊🙏
Killer video ! Everyone else doesn't show how to do bearing shims and how to install and shim properly.
Excellent tutorial. I have a couple of additional pointers. 1. Before installing the ring gear on the carrier, thread in all the bolts to make sure there is no manufacturing defects with the threads. 2. Because of the limited time to slip the heated ring gear on the carrier, before heating, install four 3" studs in the ring gear. Turn the ring gear teeth down and drop the carrier on top. The studs instantly align the bolt holes and the extra weight of the carrier insures a good fit.
Great tips!
Thanks for the video. Just purchased all of the parts from Randy’s worldwide to rebuild my 12 Bolt for my 68 Chevelle seeing your video will help us walk through it I’m sure.
Glad you liked it. I made I after I couldn’t find anyone online who did a full build.
My little 8.2 with the Yukon 373 posi with ring and pinion set has handled all my abuse I'm been able to throw at it. Very nice product with them
Great video, best 10 bolt rebuild on you tube. Not many people go into great detail - step by step. Thank you
Thanks glad you liked it
Just finishing up my first build in 30yrs and boom this video is exactly where I’m at. 500+hp with a stock 10bolt in my 68 camaro. Will watch this video more than once,!!
Lol. Same here. Im 31, and this is my first build. Got a crew cab truck with a little under 500 thats already killed one stock axle, trying to build a 2nd one to last me.
Thank you your video was one of the more informative videos and in plain English 👍 should have my truck up and running tomorrow!
Great video, thank you for making it.
This is exactly what I’m looking for. Just picked up a v6 1500
Outstanding!!
Absolutely awesome video!
Thanks!
Very nice video I’m debating on adding a limited slip to my 72 lemans with a bop no idea if it’s a 8.2 or a 8.5 10 bolt but I’m not used to the way the axles are retained vs a Chevy with c-clip plus finding parts for the bop and identifying the gears is great help I’ll pull the inspection cover and watch your video a couple more times. 👍
Great Video.
casey leneker thanks Casey!
Very nice video learned a lot thanks
265chevy thanks!
This is great if you're trying to save about $1000 in parts and maybe another $1000 in shop fee's so there is $2000 saved.
If you're having the work professionally done at shop you might as well spend $2,500 for a stronger Ford 9 inch with 31 spline axle, 1/2 inch stud and GM 5x4-75 pattern and 3.73:1
12 Bolts are expensive these days around $4,500 for a nice clean baddass one.
you need a set of brass drive pins to remove the races.
Hardest part seems to be the break-in period...how do I behave for 500 miles? :)
Thanks for the video! This will help me do my own rear diff will a little more ease! Question does the locker make a loud clicking noise when turning?
Some do. I have not noticed this one clicking. But my car is also a little loud. :).
I didn't see you put the original crush sleeve back in there for measurement of pinion depth. Also, some pressure has to be applied to both pinion nut and ring gear case when running pattern in marking compound. It makes a huge difference.
Interesting Nolan. nope i ran and checked it with no crush sleeve. the tolerances are so tight and most times the original crush sleeve is just that. already crushed. So it's a matter of making sure you have a little tension on the pinion bearings to check ware pattern. " not too lose not tighte" sort of a thing. Final tension is done like i did in this video with the new crush sleeve and a inch LB torque wrench after you set your ware patterns.. Talked to a ton of people and known one I talked to said use the existing crush sleeve while checking ware patterns. I'm not certain how it could make that much of a difference but maybe your on another level with this stuff and well above my pay grade. : ) thanks for watching as well as the incite.
@@JakesShop Yeah, so of course new crush sleeve on final assy. Incidentally, did you know there is a crush sleeve eliminator?
Getting back on track, I bet there wasn't .001 between the pinion shim that was in there, and the one you finally selected for the new build. I know the old sleeve is crushed, but that's the point. It ran down the road just fine, so it's close to right.
When you run the pattern, put a socket and ratchet on the pinion nut, and a wrench or Allen on the case, applying pressure to each as it makes it pattern, back and forth. Didn't want to confuse anyone.
Just one more thing. Run a pattern on the old R&P before you disassemble diff, because knowing that will give you an idea of where you need to go. Suffice to say, i enjoyed your video, and look forward to new content. Enjoy.
hey jake so on my pontiac 10 bolt 355 rear end, the seals are inside the tube about 2-3 inches, are your seals in between the bearing and the retaining cover? so i have to press on the bearing with the cover behind it but the seal installs inside the tube. and you use the cover to draw your axles in place I think. both videos are really good and lots of good info I feel better about taking on the rebuild now.
Joe there should be an outer seal on your press on style bearings the inner seals most guys will not use or just throw out. Most BOP Buick olds Pontiac set ups for the most part have press on style bearings on the axles and when you replace those or have them replaced there should be a new outer seal. When I did This one the axles came new and complete with bearings installed and outer seal in place. Since they were much larger axles the inner seals would have never worked or done anything.
Curious I have the same locker on the 10 bolt did you have inner c clips for the axle shafts.yukon said it takes c clips so I'm confused
If your working on a Chevrolet axle then yes it has c clips. This video is of an Oldsmobile 8.5. So it has bolt on axles. No c clips. My older video I did of the 8.2 in for my 68 camaro is the same basic process but has c clip axles and shows you more about that. Thanks for watching!
You had a dura locker in one picture when you were setting up the pinion depth but noticed you had a mechanical locker after??
HA nice catch. without specifics on what part you were looking at I believe i did cut in some old footage or pics i had when i was showing ring and pinion ware patterns. I had to use some old sections i had on just that one section as I didn't get a good view of it when I did this axle. On this axel I did used a grizzly locker. The dura grip is there Posi style which i ran in the 8.2 i previously built and did a video on. The box the lockers come in also have pictures of all different types of differentials they use so depending on the angle of the box that is also a possibility. Thanks for watching.
i have the same r/e ...BOP 2.56 . going behind a 283(+ .030 so...287 really)and a th350. i'll need to change my gearing to something similar mid to upper 3's to maintain proper rpms
I find 3.73’s to be the most user friendly for hot rods with most common tire sizes. Thanks for watching!
@@JakesShop 3.73 is probably what i'll be looking for. you like those Yukons? seem to be a popular brand. especially for these BOPs
Yeah I think they are great. Planning some good burn out videos on a few months to see if I can break something :).
What size driver did you borrow to drive the pinion bearing race in? The race driver kits I have borrowed from the auto parts stores don’t fit. Either too small or slightly too big.
Sorry don’t remember.
Ok this gear sets normally run in oil so there is less drag and no metal to metal contac. In setting preload wouldn't be better the was at least some oil on bearing that way you wont have the drag of metal on metal and get a more accurate preload with some oil on bearings the way its going to be running.
Checking the pattern the first time around with the check bearing, I though you were supposed to have preload on it?
Only on final assembly did I worry about the exact pre load. I just make sure it’s sung and spins when checking initial wear patterns
So can I use a 10 bolt 8.6 position centre in my 8.5 with 30 spline 12 bolt axles, is it a straight drop in centre compatibility, they list gear sets as 8.5/8.6 thanks
I believe the ring and pinion match. But the carrier bearings are different size so i don’t see how it would work.
HELP. What part can I use for upgraded yoke? I found one but apparently it only works for the impala ss? The rest of my axle will be aftermarket except for the housing, and I feel like stock yoke may become a weak point?
Yea I did upgrade my yoke to a modular iron one. There are a few aftermarket options. Mine was a Yukon brand. But you’ll want to call them to verify depending on what pinion your running, and size of u joint you want/need.
@@JakesShop yeah I think I do remember seeing a yukon one back when I was looking them up. But the one i wanted is Moser or strange (can't remember), and it looks 10x better than the yukon one lol. Oh well, could always paint the yukon I guess
Question? on the pinion bearing itself, my bearing does not just pop in, is it supposed to be tapped in the race, mine does not just fall into the race, is this normal?? I have a 10 bolt 8.2 going back into my 66 Chevelle, I am reinstalling the carrier that came out of it with the same stock factory gearing nothing changed, basically just doing an RR on the rear, the ring gear and pinion are new just the same ratio as factory.
Joe. The bearing rides in the race. If your just replacing your races and bearings I assumed you used a pinion bearing puller to pull the main pinion bearing? You will have to press on the new one. Which I did just realize I never put in this video as I made a setup pinion bearing to check ware patterns and verify shim depth once that’s done and the part I talked about but didn’t show was pressing on the pinion bearing. I typically use a pice of pipe and carefully press the new pinion bearing onto my pinion. In your case don’t lose the existing shims. They should be perfect as long as you checked your gear ware pattern before you removed everything and it looked good.
Can I get the hole rear end housing. For 1982 camaro z 28 mouthing brackets welding in place 411gear
They do some complete stuff. Worth a call to them to ask.
awsome video..... but did i hear it right? break in, no more than 35mph for 50 miles? people would get really pissed at me doing 35 in a 65 lol
Ha. Yeah. The idea is to heat the gears up and cool them down a few times to get them set and then change the diff oil before you go crazy on them
@@JakesShophow much did parts cost to do that
Can you still
Use C clips with this locker as well?
Yep
@@JakesShop any idea what to re torq the socket head Allen bolt back to on the carrier? The bolt that holds the cross pin in?
I have a 1996 camaro z28 and my rear end broke I drove it with no rear end oil was leaking small leak couldnt tell so I would like to beef my stock one is mine 10 bolt can i buy a rear end that u molded for my lt1 1996 camaro
Is that locker really $800? Plus ring and pinion, plus install kit?
Is there a cheaper option to do a similar set up like the one you did?
Not that I’ve seen. Lockers are expensive. Unless you want to fully Lock it. You could always go for a spool. But that’s mainly just for drag strips stuff.
@@JakesShop Just a heads up. I ordered the Yukon limited slip, 3.42 gears and the install kit for $600 on EBay. Not sure why Randy’s worldwide is so expensive.
Interesting I’ll have to check that out my only concerns with eBay or sometimes people sell knock off stuff that isn’t real and Warranty is no good or it’s a used part but sounds like you got a great deal
@@JakesShop Understood. I got my kit in today. Checked it out. Everything seems legit. Yukon limited slip, Motive Ring and pinion, Koyo bearings install kit. Has everything, crush sleeve, all bearings, diff cover gasket, gear tooth pattern paint, and limited slip oil additive. (Ford brand).
@@JakesShop www.ebay.com/itm/274835772742
Seller has really good reviews.
What did you paint the axle with?
I used a krylon industrial cheap flat black. I love the stuff. Sticks very well and lays down nice. Nothing special. Por-15 may be a little more industrial if you plan to drive it in rough weather or areas that may ever see salt.... just doesn’t look as nice if you ask me. :)
@@JakesShop awesome thanks jake! One final question what did you do to prep the surface? Just grid it to a rough finish?
Wire wheel and a lot of break clean. Dry it off then spray it after masking off parts that shouldn’t have paint
Bro this isn’t ment to be hating on u I’m very interested n knowing bout what u r doing it’s all the blather that’s got me fast forwarding the vid to get to the meat n it’s what actually what made me shut it down n move on
Keep it short n sweet show me the meat