2008 Jeep Compass Overrunning Alternator Decoupler Pulley Replacement and Oil Change
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- A friend's 2008 Jeep Compass with the 2.4L engine was making a whining noise and the shop wanted $350 - $400 dollars to replace the alternator. They did not have that kind of money. Just charging for parts only and no labor, I sourced the correct part and found a way to replace just the Overrunning Alternator De-coupler (OAD) pulley and keep the original alternator for a total cost of $55.77.
While I was at it, the oil change monitoring system indicated a need for an oil change, so I did that job for a total cost of $27.03. Conventional oil was used in this case to minimize costs. (6/22/2013) - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I just had my 2014 compass alternator replaced entirely - looking back at this video, I'm sure it could have been a cheaper repair since the symptoms seemed to be the same. Its the same motor, but mine has many more miles. So perhaps smarter to have replaced the whole thing in my instance anyway. But there are many Jeeps in my family and this is a nice piece of info to have in the pocket. Thoughtful commentary and well done.
I noticed a bad squeaking noise and thought it was my belt so I checked a few things and noticed it had gotten worse so today I left it running and was looking at the pulleys and noticed this pulley was vibrating bad and it's got 197,000 miles so I'm glad I found this because I'm fixing to change it
I have actually been working on my girlfriends Compass (same color even... haha) and it has a crazy noise that almost made me think it was the PS pump, but it had no change with pressure. I noticed last night the alt had a funky looking pulley on it, but never thought it could be the problem. I replaced the idler's last night, I'll try this next time I get to work on it. Thanks for the vid. =)
Great vid!! Thanks for taking the time to do it. Just completed this job on daughters 09 Patriot(2.4l) Got the belt and pulley kit from Rock Auto,which included 2 idlers, tensioner and a new belt. The alternator de-coupler pulley was separate purchase also from Rock Auto. When I pulled de-coupler off,it had about half of it's ball bearings remaining,and was making a horrible noise. It's all smooth and quiet now!
Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences/shared knowledge. I went into it prepared, gave myself plenty of time and sunlight and got the job done in about 3.5 hours. The tight spacing was extremely difficult to work with and I found myself speaking french several times but I got the job done. My wife's 2012 Jeep Compass was making the ugliest clicking/whining sound, I could hear her coming a 1/2 mile down the road! Mechanic suggested I replace alternator, but thanks to this video, I went to Advance Auto and bought a $64 Litens alternator decoupler pulley that came with the Allen/Hex tool needed to remove/install pulley! My advice (and I am not mechanically inclined): Have the right tools to get the job done, they will help you get into the tight areas. I needed several ratchet extensions, a U-Drive Extension and Impact Gun to help speed the job along. Be extremely patient because this is not a quick job, having a 2nd person helping would be ideal, as getting the alternator and a/c compressor back up there to be bolted back on is a tough job for 1 person. Last but not least, if you plan on working on your back like I did, prepare to rub some Icy Hot on your neck as you will be straining it 3/4 of the time you're down there. Good Luck!
Hello have you had any trouble out of your Liten pulley coupler? It's now been 4 years. I've put 3 alternators on my daughter's 2014 patriot 2.4l in this last year. The first one I bought from autozone lasted a year, the second lasted a week and was throwing sparks after a week. The third I put on last month and asked for the high output alternator. I had them test it before I took, it they tested it twice, but now a month later there's rust all over the face of the alternator housing behind the pulley and whining. I can't win with these autozone alternators. If you had luck with your coupler I'm going that route because I'm seeing on my scanner desired voltage and actual when idling no load and idling with a load and it's working properly but the rust and whining is having me needing the coupler. It's sad that they have no quality control going on and their parts are failing so early. Luckily I'm doing the work I imagine if she took it to a shop she'd be several hundred dollars into labor for the three replacements. And the initial tow, lucky for her I have a wrecker and dollies and towed it home when the original alternator seized and broke the belt and wrapped it tightly around everything. Please let me know how you made out if you can. Thank you!
@V.is.4... That's unfortunate and annoying to have the same recurring issue. My wife's alternator has had no issues since I replaced that part 4 years ago...it has been operating perfectly and would recommend you give it a shot, as much as labor costs In a shop nowadays I'd say you saved closer to a thousand bucks!
just wanna say thank you. this fixed my loud problem in my jeep
my gf's Compass is making a bad whining sound then we start to brake too, noticed its getting worse today on our way home, watched this vid and going to try and fix it. hers is a 07 compass
This video saved me over $300. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the video. I just had this problem and could not figure it out. All fixed now. Thanks again.
Thank you for taking time to make this video.
Glad it helped. I hope that it will save people some money and allow them to keep their original alternator.
Awesome job and explanation! I have to do this to my 2007 Compass very soon. It's very loud and rattling. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. At first I was critical of your presentation but the bottom line was, your information was very helpful.
I welded my pulley to stop it from slipping over 10 years 100,000 miles ago & it is still going strong. My tensioner is still original over 200k miles on it & belt still good over 100k miles later. Never reinstall one of those pulleys new or used because it will fail before 60K, leave you stranded & you will have to do this job over again. You can also buy a solid pulley instead of that original junky one. Just 2 small welds across from each-other between the face of the pulley.& arbor. Cost under $1 + labor.
do you have a video explaining all of this. how is your jeep working now.
I have a 2008 Jeep patriot, and I have the same problem. I'm fixing it this week! thanks for the video.
These are all the Cars with 2.4 L engines with this type of alternator decoupler pulleys.
CHRYSLER 200 (2011 - 2014)
CHRYSLER SEBRING (2007 - 2008)
DODGE AVENGER (2008 - 2014)
DODGE CALIBER (2007 - 2012)
DODGE JOURNEY (2009 - 2014)
JEEP COMPASS (2007 - 2014)
JEEP PATRIOT (2007 - 2014)
(Rockauto.com)
I'm about to remove the alt on my srt caliber, very helpful video,thanks for sharing
Best tutorial for Jeep compass alternator pulley.
I replaced the alternator on the 2008 Compass and I found that if you remove the A/C compressor mounting bracket underneath the compressor , it’s easier to get the alternator out the bottom. I would also be very careful using the screwdriver on the stator fins to install the new pulley.
Thank you for posting this. I am in the same boat right now with my 2008 Compass & will be doing this repair myself. I suspect the spring/bearing wear in the alternator pulley comes from manually 'down shifting' with the Autostick shift knob. I do quite a bit of this on mountain driving, and it always revs the motor with a bit of high sounding whine (has become worse in the last 5000 miles) until the pulley failed.
Nice of you to help your friend.... Hope you got a steak dinner or an arbys roast beef for your efforts!
You don't have to completely remove the lower alternator bolt with the L-bracket nut. Just remove the battery B+ cable nut, the harness plug, remove the top alt bolt, then loosen the lower alt bolt and just pry the alt out. The lower bolt just sits or rides in a perch. Pretty easy.
Best video I watch on these pulley.
Thanks for this video! I am going to have to do this on the wifes 2007 Caliber here soon!
This will be of great help for our '08 Patriot. So ridiculous that they won't offer the darn decoupler. I am so glad that there is a much less expensive fix and the part easily available. Only thing is that I will need to figure out what to do for a pneumatic tool and also will need to get the huge hex tool. Thanks again!
+JorgeInTheTube the 17mm hex head is 6 or 7 bucks and the decoupler was 71 dollars. just replaced the one on my wifes 08 Patriot
+Todd Holder Nice. I managed to get ours done back then in December. I had to use a ratchet and screwdriver on the internal fan, but it's working great so far, thank goodness!
Awesome video. I have an 05 Jeep Liberty 2.8 L diesel with the same setup. Mine is still good but I have read they are also prone to fail pretty often.
Getting ready to do this on my 2016 Jeep Patriot with 160k on the clock...... got a good long life on the original so I'm not even mad
thank you for a very well explanatory video it help me out a lot
thank you for video .it help me
Wow, good call. Well done!
It's amazing how more complex cars are getting these days. Even the alternator pulley's aren't straight forward anymore.
Yeah I definitely prefer older vehicles.
You seem like a proper nice guy :)
I wish the engineers who created these machines had your logic and thoughtfulness in thinking things through.
Thank you. I often feel that serviceability is a distant afterthought in some of these newer vehicles where they try to take advantage of every little nook and cranny of space there is.
Dear god it's not lol because it cost the dealerships more money, which the manufacture has to reimburse, be it the auto manufacturer, parts supplier etc.
Great video thank you so much! I recently had to change my entire alternator out on my 2010 jeep compass. The car was making a horrible noise, and when I took the alt out peices of windings we're falling out.. There was peices to the pulley as well.. The jeep had only 68000 miles.. Sad.. But I wanted to see if it is normal for it to be making a weird noise while decelerating? And it feels like it jerks a bit while decelerating as well.. Kinda hard to explain.. Please help if you can
Thank you very much, great video. $ 72 dollars to fixed, hard to pull out the alternator but I manage to work without pull it out,,,thanks
a very good video
Excellent video good sir, only wish you had the initial noise. But thats ok other vids have it. Nice post-repair review as well, would recommend. Stay gold.
Those OAD pulleys are designed to be replaced every 50-80K miles - on Jeeps it's 50K, so they got their money's worth out of it. I just put one on my Crown Vic with the Police alternator and you could fee the engine run slightly smoother with it vs. the solid pulley. They can be a bit of a hassle, but I think it's worth it.
This job wasn't too hard except for the alternator location. In some cars, you might not even have to remove the alternator to replace the OAD pulley.
Thank you!
I have a ticking rattling sound come from that area sound clears up once it worms up not sure if it's the pulleys or something else
Great video. I have the same issue with my Caliber. With the mileage on the car I'm going to replace the alternator as well. Would hate to take it apart again 20-30K from now.
It's not a lubricating problem I had the same identical thing happen to my 07 Toyota and nice shout out for rockauto 👍👍👍
So I'm wondering if you had to replace the actual alternator itself after this, or did this solution work for a good long while?
Thank you very much, great video, I have problems with this car since the 60000 miles, now doesn't have even 100000 and I have the same problem with the pulley, i am not happy with this car, also i have to change the front wheel bearing hub too, always something, definitely I hate this car
Great video! It will definitely help if/when I go to replace this part. I do have one question: Is it possible that this pulley problem might affect the alternator's ability to keep the battery charged enough to handle normal operating loads?
It's possible, but the clutch mechanism is pretty durable and rarely fails. In most cases, it's the bearing that fails first. In extreme cases, if it is not replaced, the pulley could develop so much wobble due to the failed bearing that the belt could either come off or be damaged.
Do many cars have the overrunning decoupler? Seems like a good idea, the alternator does not have to slow down every time the transmission upshifts.
That brown substance you mentioned in your video has nothing to do with grease, rather it is rust dust/reside from a worn out/bad bearing. If you don't crack open the alternator and change the internal bearing, you have not addressed the real problem with your buddy's car.
Exactly
Great video...I think this may be the problem with my wife's 2010 Jeep Compass and I'm debating on undertaking the job myself but I have a few questions/concerns...ours isn't making a whining noise but more of a rattling noise in the same area near the pulleys and alternator BUT it does have that brown power resideu on the outside of the alternator near the decoupler so Im assuming that's the problem but I hate to get knee deep in this and then put it all back together and that not be the problem or the only problem...is there anything else that you know of that could have gotten damaged from the bearing going bad? I'm leaning towards just replacing the decoupler pulley if this is actually the problem instead of the entire alternator....the vehicle has 65K miles on it and the alternator...any advice or tips you can provide are greatly appreciated...also where did you order your pulley from? thanks
If you see the brown powdery residue around the pulley, that's dried grease. If the OAD hasn't failed yet, it will soon. You've got nothing to loose by replacing it now. At least you'll eliminate one variable should you encounter future trouble.
Tank You I Got The Same Jeep Compass And The Same Color, 🚗✌😎
My Cousins jeep doing same thing- only LOUD !! sounds like a Diesel!! What a total bitch to remove. The Belt removal /installation was damn near impossible also, even with a serpentine belt tool. The room between vehicle frame and engine is less than 3" and my hands wouldn't fit. Took a buddy to help with getting belt back on. Never touch the damn thing again..., also I had to replace both idler pulleys...yup there's two of 'em ! Excellent Dodge engineering, as usual.
how about a throttle body? i need a guide/input how to work on this.
Thanks, have a look here too...
GATES: Alternator Decoupler Pulley - How to Inspect and Replace (short version)
Thanks. The replacement part in the video was a Gates unit. I went to some length to source a Gates OEM part. I've been impressed with their products.
I understand those OAD (or ADP) pulleys began in 2001 in Chrysler. Our 2002 T&C has it (mine had a broken spring inside). I understand to both avoid kicks in the serpentine belt and perhaps to avoid throwing the belt (happened in heavy rain, at least in V-6 minivans). I understand they dropped it after 2008, and likely similar for other U.S. cars. Someone could comment if 2009+ have a solid alternator pulley and if they solve the belt kick problem in another comment (like tensioner). For idler pulleys and tensioner bearings, I just buy a new bearing, using a shop press to swap it. Doesn't save much cost, except that I can install a better quality bearing than what comes on the new parts. Most consider Made In Germany the best bearings. Just go by the number on the bearing or measure (standard metric dimensions).
Good
Supporting weight of car on lower control arm which is a follower arm?
Great video, with great tips, thanks. One comment, and one question: I notice that both Gates and Lisle make kits to remove these pulleys... Lisle kit number 57650 is one. And they list the Jeep Patriot 2.4 on their downloadable PDF. But when they list it, they only show the 17mm hex being used... not the center splined holder for the pulley shaft. Is this why the impact wrench is needed, because there IS NO spline or hex machined into the shaft, to hold it? I don't want to spend the money on the kit, if all I can use is the 17mm... I'll just buy one of those, instead.
And a comment: I noted that there is a guy online who recommends removing the A/C mount, too, with the three bolts that go through the oil pan. He says the alternator is then much easier to get out, between the A/C unit, and the oil filter, instead of out the wheel well. I have not done this yet, but thought I'd try it, when I get to the job. Thanks again...
I have not seen special kits specific to these kinds of pulleys but I know they're out there. I've pulled conventional pulleys from many alternators and the challenge has always been how to keep the shaft from turning. For me, the answer has always been an impact wrench. If you don't' have one, you could try locking the rotor with a screwdriver but if you do, be careful not to bend any of the cooling fins.
Good idea about the AC compressor mount. It was tricky to get the alternator out. Had I had known it'd be that tricky, I probably would have removed the AC mount first. I hope you can do this job yourself since you'll save a ton of money.
+proto57 dropping the AC compressor is the best way to go. Makes it a lot easier
The instructions say to just burst it tight with an impact gun 2 or 3 times.
It is a left hand thread, so the engine will keep it tight.
Using a screw driver to stop the fan could bend it.
Other than that good video.
Thanks
I've had to replace the clutch pulley on my 2008 sebring about five times.
Mike Urnise you replaced it 5 times why, faulty parts or alternator?
How many hours did it take you to do this job? My 2007 Compass is going to need the pulley replaced pretty soon. It's making a terrible clackety noise and also a howling sound.
+Infinitrium I just replaced the decoupler pulley and my A/C compressor. along with the tensioner pulley and both idler pulleys. I also put a new serpentine belt. total time was around 3 hours and total cost was around 600 dollars for all the parts and fluids
how much would this usually cost at a mechanic?
My wifes jeep just started making this noise tonight. Glad i found the vid... how long do i have before this becomes a fanger to break.
They'll run for a while like that, but you'll want to replace it as soon as weather and time permit.
Cool. Thanks for the heads up and you were spot on. I realized I had 3k left on extended warrenty through carmax. They fix it, a strut and a tie rod with their inspection and got it all taken care of for a $250 co pay. But the moral of the story, you were right on. High whining noise was from worn out altenator.
how did you get the adp off, as i look into it more it says you need a special tool to remove and install?
You just need a large Allen socket and an impact wrench.
so it seems that dealerships say replace the alternator too because of the debri that can/has from the bad pulley.
That's a judgement call that you'll have to make after you feel how smooth the shaft turns and determine end play. However, the front bearings in most alternators are sealed so there is next to no chance of dirt infiltration.
Most of the time, pulley replacement is all that is needed. Shops like to replace the entire alternator since they can get you in and out much faster with less labor. They'll make up the labor difference with the markup on the part.
and i have same year compass and same probloum. i want pulley part number please
so if the car is running fine except the noise/whinning you think the alternator is still good?
If it's putting out around 14.2 - 14.6 volts, even with a load, then the alternator is good electrically. You will need to take the belt off and rotate the alternator by hand to see if the pulley is bad and/or if the alternator bearings are bad.
HI chris i want know where you got the pulley. can i have part no and looking for jeep compass 2008 alternater pully if you know any website please let me know
Reply ·
where are u located mr.shadow rider460??
Mechanics trying to sell more than is needed as usual, did they take the car to the dealer? Dealers have a great tendency of doing that.
how are you stopping the rotor from spinning because it'v VERY IMPORTANT that you DO NOT damage the fins on the rotor because it's possible for the rotor fins/fans to detach and shoot out the side of the alternator, kind of like a rod threw a block.
pulley caps btw are metal except for the very center ;) Hope that helps anyone trying to remove them.
Sorry I didn't watch far enough in to see that you to action to prevent fin damage.
I make these for a living so I get all worked up lol.
btw yes it is a lot of stress and they test those pulleys/alternators way way past 15000 rpm for hours upon hours.
good explanation. can i have web site or number where you got pulley please help
How long did this technique work for the jeep?
what if you dont have the gun. what can i do to tighten and remove the pulley from the alt.
My guess is that you can use a breaking bar with an extension. Just make sure to block the the spinning part inside the alternator with the screwdriver. Also you can get an impact gun for around 50 bucks at harbor freight. An electric impact that is
The f* question is: how do you put back the belt on?!! The tensioner is right in the middle of this engine and it is an inch of the side frame.
Turn the wheel to the right and take off the belt cover underneath put the belt tool on from the bottom and get someone to help loop it over the last pulley.
Nate Lysy
I have pulled it with a roof strap over the support, looped the belt around, released the strap, and it's all set. :) ...4 months ago *the tool did not fit in (no space at-all under hood of this ridiculous, shity, mobile!)
I'm sure I have the EXACT problem... 2008 compass also.
I have a 2008 jeep patriot and I have to agree the engine is a nightmare to work on. I love the jeep itself but what were those engineers thinking? You can barely fit a hand in there to fix anything because it's so cramped and parts are in horrible locations!
They were thinking.. optimize weight, cost... and get you in the shop for ALL repairs.
Your too generous...
nevermind I heard you say $350
so how much did u charge them
I didn't charge them any labor. They just paid for the part. They didn't have much money, she was pregnant, and her husband was overseas. She was worried that it'd break down with a baby on the way and didn't have the money for a shop to fix it.
thats nice of you!
78601 on the odometer... I'm at 78900... time to go to the shop...
Here's the mileage if anyone wants to see it czcams.com/video/JoYT6jGDKOo/video.htmlm46s
!!!!!
get the throttle body off, fuel rail off, power steering pump and reservoir moved to the rear of the motor, intake manifold off and the alternator and starter are both completely accessible..imo..
JaseCJay .. that's a lot of work, removing all those oarts. I would replace or fix those parts removed; to avoid having to redo it again. Get it done. I do need to replace my starter. valve cover gasket, rack n pinion.
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