Do you feel having an oil catch cans off of the PCV valve in conjunction with the CRC cleaner and new PCV valve every 20K would be adequate to keep carbon in check on GDI's? I have a Hyundai with a 2.4L. Thank you.
Too much effort ,, get the big chunks off and then use BG carbon remover or go to a restaurant supply store and get the professional carbon remover for pots/pans (same as BG but a quarter of the price) .. turns that crap to liquid in MINUTES....
i have a 2015 ford expedition 3.5 eco boost and it is having a issue where when you accelerate up to around 2500 to 3500 rpms to pass someone or enter a freeway it starts missing and the check engine light flashes. would you say this is a carbon issue as well...it has happened cold start as well but not until it climbs a hill
I just did this on my Focus ST! I blasted it with walnuts tho. 180k miles!! The valves were WICKED!! What a brain fart of a design... Car ran so much better afterwards. Totally worth the effort.
Man keep this up. Regardless if I ever do any of these manual repairs myself, just great education for use when talking with mechanics and shops. The more you know!
Did this on my 14 focus st. Before that it had a few misfires and what not. The carbon build up was pretty bad with 82k. I used crc and let it soak for about an hr on each valve while it was fully submerged. Then scrub with a hard thin brush. Then I would use a small vacuum attachment on my shop vac and suck it up. Repeat until it was smooth. Then installed catch cans 😁. She definitely idles better and has less misfires. Worth the troubles. I'd tape off the other valves that are already clean to keep them from getting debris inside from the dirty ones. great vid and info. Wish I found this sooner.
Thanks for making this video, I just had the misfire issue for the first time at 107k and I was at a loss on how to clean the valves. The method you showed us worked great.
Have a Mazda CX-5 with GDI. I’ve utilized the BG kit at approximately 80,000 miles. Engine oil is also important for reducing carbon build up. I use Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic engine oil as well.
Do you have a video on removing the intake on the 2.0 ecoboost. Looks pretty simple but always good to see a walk thru to avoid any surprises or mistakes. Really like your channel and have put several to use.
Thanks for sharing. Just goes to show why GDI coupled with a standard PCV system is a major design flaw in modern engines that are built this way. Any engine that uses GDI should come from the factory with an oil catch can or include redundant port injectors to keep the valves clean.
No strict need for a catch can but you do need a good air/oil separator in the PCV system, to get the oil mist out of the blowby and send it back to the sump. A catch can is just another secondary air/oil separator, retrofitted because the OEM one is inadequate (or absent).
i have a 3.5 ecoboost with around 202,000 miles and have noticed a decline in gas mileage. Any idea where i can get a walnut shell blasting done? and how much will it run me?
@@easton._.141 A Lot of Shops can do that, about an hour or two for the blasting and whatever time it takes for dis and re-assembly. Periodic engine treatment will help keep down on buildup but on the other hand you done reeeeal good on getting that many miles without issue. I do not know if Ford has a top engine cleaner, personally I use GM product and swear by it. Way better than the CRC crap in my opinion.
Just called two dealers to see what they would charge to clean my valves. Both want to charge me between $135-$300 for doing the same thing I’ve already been doing with CRC’s GDI cleaner; I asked what the service consisted of… they told me they spray/ fog the intake. That’s what I’ve been doing on a regular basis… so, I’ll be doing this process myself. They’ll probably want $2000 to do it.
Run bottle of BG 44k in gas tank. I do 2× yr in my gen2 - 2.3L Ecoboost Ranger truck. She runs perfect! 2yrs/19k mis. Use full synthetic 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum changed every 5k mis AT MOST. Always midgrade fuel.
Perfect timing for this video. I'm wrapping up the timing chain job on my 3.5 ecoboost today. Your videos are incredible. Thank you Thank you Thank you!
How many miles on your 3.5? I am looking at maybe buying a used Ford Explorer Platinum with twin turbo 3.5L and 50k miles, and I'm a little concerned about durability. Not sure if it's worth buying one of these Ecoboost engines. Thanks
@@ChevySS1968 only 80k miles but that doesn't tell the whole story. I have used this truck a lot for hauling and haven't had a single issue other than this major one. If I can get another 5 or 6 years of use from the truck with no other issues I'll be happy. From what I understand, the timing chain issue is likely to happen so you should definitely factor that into your purchase decision. Definitely do a cold start of the vehicle and listen for the rattle
@@grilledxcheeze I have 285k on my 3.5. Needs its second chain job now. Aside from that its been a good engine. Did you find any build-up on your valves?
@@Wildwwill I did have some build up. I didn't get in there too much to clean that up but it is making consider a catch can. I did the weap hole thing and a noticeable amount of funk did come out. Glad to see you made it so far on your EcoBoost.
Thanks for the tips. I did this and a catch can on my 2013 fusion 2.0 ecoboost and it wasnt too bad of a job! The catch can fills a good inch or 2 every 1000ish miles its suprising! Thanks for the vids!
BG 44k fuel treatment in gas tank 3-4× yr works wonders! Do it in my '19 Ranger XLT FX4 truck. Im sold on Ecoboost tech! All I buy & drive. Never go past 5k mis on oil changes & use OEM filters. I use Motul full synthetic 5w30 oil.
@@Davido50 Fuel treatments added to the fuel tank will do nothing to clean the intake valves because the fuel comes in the chambers after the valves. If you were right about fuel additives working then these videos wouldn't be out there.
Damn, I was hoping to see the process of removing the intake. Thanks for the video, been waiting patiently since the last video as I need to do this myself.
That’s all due to insufficient filtration on the oil filter. These turbo charged direct engines require a 20 mic filter filtration, anything larger than that you see this happening. Try switching to the Amsoil filter with a good synthetic oil and you don’t have these issues. I use Amsoil signature series oil and I have 441,000 miles on my f150 3.5 ecoboost and I’ve never had these types of issues. I used a 40 mic filter when I first got it and the PCV fluid was black and gritty, I changed over to a 20 mic filter and the PCV fluid turned to a light brown fluid that feels like a good oil. The fluid will burn in the combustion chamber the black gritty stuff doesn’t.
Excellent thorough repair and video! Would you mind doing a tool box tour? Would be interesting to see what tools you mostly use to work on Ford vehicles.
Nice , appreciate the heck out of you and your videos. I have a 96 4 valve cobra with the same design issue . Different design but same issue . I cleaned mine with 1/2” round wire brush. To get around the valve I bent the end of it around itself , And then a slight 20deg bend. I use carb clean to break it up . Then I use brake clean to sterilize it . Blowing with a air gun covered with a rag so it doesn’t go everywhere.
Good trick I use is get the car to normal running temp then start tearing the I take manifold off. By the time you have the intake manifold off the engine cools enough and those deposits come off much easier when warm.
Junk engine! Requires major maintenance after only 80K. So glad my 99 Taurus has a 3.0 Vulcan - 22 years old, runs perfectly, never been apart. Thanks for another great vid, always learn something here.
uhhh that's inherent with every GDI engine from every manufacturer, Mazda, VW, Honda, Subaru. Newer engines from Ford and Toyota have both port and direct injection system so this is no longer a problem.
Your 3.0 vulcan also only makes 140hp, and 160ftlbs of torque. One of fords ecoboost engines, the 1.0 3 cylinder engine makes the same power and torque as your 3.0 v6 while getting over 50mpg.
I've got 185000 on my f150 3.5 ecoboost. I purchased new and have maintained it well. glad to see "BG" has come out with something safe for the turbos because I haven't replaced them yet.
@@alphawolfadventures1470 2011. never had valves cleaned. ran borescope ay about 150k. not terrible. I don't let it idle much when cold which helps to warm up fast. I'm in NE Ohio. I do change brands of gas often which I've also heard helps with many varieties of detergents. I'm at 189k now.
@@paulmartin8212 thx man spending too much time on the Internet will have you thinking these will blow up at any time 😂 I guess like looking up what’s wrong with you instead of seeing a doctor “it’s a tumor” 😂 doctor- “you’ve got a sinus infection” 😂
So far no issues with my 2014 F150 with a 3.5 ecoboost. I do rev the engine fairly often, not abusing it, but not driving like grandpa either. Also using Pennzoil platinum synthetic oil. I also might have a tiny hole at the bottom of my intercooler to allow some of that gunk to blow out on its own without losing any boost of course, I say I “might” have a tiny hole. ;) ;)
If I were doing all this work to clean the intake valves every couple thousand miles, I'd probably just fabricate in some secondary fuel injectors to wash the valves down 1-2 times per drive cycle. Having to do this more than once (or at all) is insane.
Not sure about fuel but I have been reading about people fabricating Methanol injection just for the cleaning. Using the existing windshield washer bottle an winter windshield wash. They are saying the Methanol content is high enough. Food for thought 🤔
I heard that some regular hard throttle can keep it from building up too bad. It's the easy city driving or mild highway use that causes a lot of build up. I'm nearing 100k on my F-150 and it's OK. Nearing 80k on the Escape that the wife putts around town in and I think it's going to look more like this video. It vibrates at 8dle a bit. But no code yet.
@@PsalmFourteenOne if I go too much past half throttle it will "stutter". Its at 55k and been doing that since around 20k. I'm afraid to take it in to have it checked. Just waiting for the right situation to trade it.
@@WarrenRCG Now you're afraid to have it checked, but at 20k it was covered under warranty. Depending on what year and model car you have, you may have gotten close to a new motor put in.
@@WarrenRCG A 4 cylinder ecoboost in a car? Our escape just vibrates at idle sometimes. Seems ok other than that. My F-150 still runs like a raped ape. I accelerate hard in it sometimes and drive it on the mountains so it probably heat cycles enough to cook that carbon off. It's a 2015. Our escape is a 2014. The new ones added port injection along with the GDI so they shouldn't have as much of the build up now.
Dang, I cant use my pressure washer ? LOL.......... anyway, thanks for this video. I used two cans of CRC and nothing really happened. But after I took off the intake and cleaned the valves like you have shown here, the #2 cylinder misfire went away.
I've often wondered - we can cut thick steel with a high-pressure water jet. Why couldn't we use a lower pressure on a small hand squirter maybe not unlike what dentists use, to blast the carbon off? We could have a suction tube in there to suck up the water and debris. Or maybe just use the air tube.
i have a carbon vac machine but with the intake desigs of todays cars the machine is not sufficent in cleaning the carbon off the valves. Renoving the intake on todays down draft intakes is the best way to get a good scrub on the intake valves. Also allows you to clean all the oil buildup from the pcv system in the intake by removal. Sea foam works good for me.
Order BG 44k immediately! I did. Great 1st start. Just add to fuel every few mos. Be sure to run a good < full synthetic > engine oil & change @5k mis max. Otherwise Ecoboost is phenomenal. My 3rd Ecoboost vehicle. Never issues! Im very religious bout oil changes & fuel quality! Pennzoil Platinum is awesome. Motul is best if ur wallets are deeper. - Ohio
Ford senior master tech her just a tip try using the Motorcraft carb cleaner (PM3) just poor it in the intake port and cover the valve let it sit for 30 mins and blow it out it will look new - great video
You're 100% right, i put a good catch can on my 3.5l EB very early on. Ran a borescope around 3 months ago at 77k miles and the valves have a very minor amount of carbon, but i also run a intake cleaner through the throttle body every 12k miles as well for cheap insurance. Thus far shes awesome, but this is a great video no doubt for those who found out too late
Its pretty much a buyer be aware issue. Be aware most Ford salesmen aren't going to tell you about GDI valve coking, and the dealer isn't going to do shit for induction service. If it doesn't throw a code, they ain't doing shit.
That is a un-masterful piece of engineering, all gunked up with just that mileage. Looks like Ford didn't give a damn about what happens in this Eco design after the warranty period.
Ford is the least susceptible to valve coking. This is nothing compared to some non-Fords I have seen with fewer miles. Ford has a patent to help curb valve coking. Should see what some Audi's look like with 40K on them!
@@acdii I remember hearing about the VW/Audi 2.0s when GDI first came out. Some would coke up enough to where the valves would hang open and blammo. 45-70k on them!
@@adamtrombino106 Yep, and a LOT of pictures that people claim to be the Ecoboost are all pictures of those Audi engines. This video is the first to actually show the buildup, and like I said, seen much much worse. This is nothing compared to old school carburated engines.
I’ve got a Chevy v8 in my g8, I’m here just to see how your carbon cleaning goes lol I got injured, went a bit too long on an oil change and my pcv sucked in and coated up my intake lol baked on crap. It’s incredible since it’s not a direct injected engine.
Ya i called my gm dealer today and said i need a cleaning service done to help reduce the carbon, cause i mentioned i got a somewhat rough idle and it just doesn't seem to perform the way it should be, service guy said do you got a check engine light on , no i dont , he said cleaning the carbon wont solve your misfire, i kinda found that answer a little misleading. 2013 chev impala 3.6 lt
Love the Escape! Good basic maintenance they run forever. Use the BG 44k fuel system treatment in ur fuel every few mos. U must run a great full synthetic oil! Tier1 fuel too yes?
@@Davido50 my girlfriend bought it originally but she bought a new 2020 so I bought her that one for a daily because it's better on fuel between my 6.0 powerstroke and mustang gt lol but honestly I just use regular 87 and motorcraft semi syn 5w30 in it always change the ptu oil every 10k and the trans every 30k and it's never given an ounce of issue. Runs really well but it does have the cold miss from never cleaning the valves.
Just needed to put a catch can system from the factory, been using them for years in drag racing on boosted engines, not a big secret . Engineers need to get off'n the porch every once in a while! LoL
Oh, and there are kits... I believe I saw one that bolts on right there, 4 extra injectors... ported so they spray evenly down the split. Think the guy wanted like $1200 for the whole setup. "upto 620hp without changing the hp fuel pump"... "Dude, I just want to keep my valves clean"... "Oh... It keeps the valves clean, really clean!"🤦♂️
I am using wynn's direct injection valve cleaner as we speak, together with some brushes. I taped off one of the cyllinders cause that one is open i will now let it dwell for the night and see what it does, the ports toward the valve cleaned up very well so i have high hopes.
That job sure takes a deep cut into any gas $$$ saved. I have a 2021 Kia Forte 2.0 with GDI but i dont hear must about any Kia issues at least yet and my engine has been out for at least 3-4 years
My catch can on my 2013 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost catches about 1/2 a Dixie-cup of syrupy, coffee consistency fluid between each oil change. Not sure how much build-up that saves on the valves, but at least I can attest to it catching some of the blow-by.
Ford has had better luck w/ its TGDI engine design than most any other automakers ! Fact. On my 3rd Ecoboost vehicle. Never issues! Love em. I ordered 2 bottles BG 44k fuel system treatment after watching this you should to. Try Pennzoil Platinum awesome engine oil
I knew this could be done, everyone says you need to get it walnut blasted. I figured a little bit of time with brake clean and brushes and you could do this in your own driveway. I wonder if applying glyptal to the intake valves would be a viable solution for keeping oil deposits from ever sticking in the first place. I know people who have used that stuff inside crank cases to aid in return oil flow back to the sump, it creates a smooth non-stick surface inside the block.
Give me the good old days of revving the engine a little and pouring a little water down the carb. Water turns to steam, engine backfired and carbon was gone.😎
Had to do that many years ago on my 74 Vega. Would ping no matter what I did until I used the water trick. Bunch of black smoke came out of the exhaust - no more ping.
@@andrewrich6198 It can. It is a GDI engine. In 2017+ they switched to use both GDI and port injection, so the fuel should help keep the valves cleaner.
Should this be done as a preventative maintenance procedure? I am about to install a catch can on my 70000k mile EcoBoost, so as long as I am pulling the intake manifold off, maybe I should take on a cleaning on as well?
Would pistachio shells work as well as walnut shells for cleaning? They seem as tough or tougher, plus theyre easy to make your own supply whilst snacking🙄
It’s ok as preventive Maintenance to use crc valve cleaner on my 2021 2.3 Ford explorer it has 11,500 miles, bought it with 5,000 miles and from there installed the oil catch can, using 5w-30 pennzoil ultra platinum.
So far so good after 148,000 miles on Shell V-Power Nitro+. Changed the original factory spark plugs at about 130,000; was still running great but I was concerned that a spark plug mechanical failure might destroy the engine. Turned out the plugs were still in decent condition.
@@niceguydmm fuel is sprayed directly into cylinder on gdi engines. Traditional port injection sprays fuel mixture into runner, which cleans back of intake valves. Type of fuel or additive into tank does nothing for GDI cars.
Someone needs to make an aftermarket kit where you can plumb in a single fuel/solvent injector, like a VW CIS cold start injector. This way you can run a yearly automated service cleaning cycle without any intake manifold disassembly required. I realize that's quite an engineering feat, but I think it would pay for itself after the traditional manual cleaning service, and has the benefit to prevent potential drivability issues too.
That would be simple enough. Tap a thread in the intake pipe. Snug a quick connect on there. When it comes time to service install an air line and bring it into the cab then blast it with solvent with the car warmed up at freeway speeds. A couple cans should do the trick.
Here's a question for you. As a dealer tech (not ford) do you think this repair/maintenance should be a warranty based repair or CP? I've had many debates with my warranty admin regarding this and neither the dealer nor the manufacturer has an answer. Just wanted your opinion
CP. Carbon deposits are not defects in materials or workmanship. Warranty doesn't cover defects in the engineers' designs. That's why the manufacturers get sued and then offer "customer satisfaction" recalls...
Not trying to start a debate, but does a well designed catch prevent this? I have a '15 F150 with 2.7 (DI only) EcoBoost. Had 75,xxx miles with a catch can since around 20,xxx miles.
Contact the rust removing laser manufacture to see if they could design a laser tool on a wand to reach in these spots. I would think a laser might be effect at this as it is on rust. Just a thought!
Get yourself a walnut blasting setup. Knock down the big chunks manually and then blast it for 30-60 seconds. Faster and comes out looking almost brand new.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for doing the video. There are so many di engines now, it is much needed information. Walnut blasting cleanings really should be routine maintenance, but no way is Ford going to add to the cost of ownership and endorse that.
I have a 16 escape 1.6l that I have torn apart right now because it has all the symptoms of a bad pcv valve, to find out it doesn't have a pcv valve. It instead has an air oil separator. Have you ever had to replace one? And I figured while I had the intake off I would clean the valves because they were worse than the ones in video
@@markkoranjr6426 Yep, let's scrub our valves every 10-20k miles, what fun! I'll add, I've seen plenty of carboned intake valves on even carbed engines (wet intake) to realize a dry intake valve is gonna be a problem. They had to know, yet did it anyway.
The problem isn't the decision to implement Direct Injection. The primary problem is crankcase ventilation that is positive pressure, being fed into the intake manifold. At hot operating temperature, it's not a problem. But during cold start up and warmup, the air in the oil pan, cylinder head and valve train cavity is cold and wet, which is sucked into the intake manifold along with cold EGR air. The oil and unburnt fuel then falls out of suspension and coats anything in the intake manifold and EGR system. Then as the engine warms up to operating temperature, these deposits then bake onto the walls. The problem has been around since the late 1960s when cylinder head / carburetor EGR plates were first used. Combustion engines can only develop negative crankcase pressure using a dry sump oil system. The drawback is complexity, parasitic horsepower loss and oil foaming / aeration depending on design. It also isn't a good application in cold operating temperatures. EGR air pumps did work, but they also were problematic and required allot of horsepower. One of the advantages of propane or natural gas is its cold burn properties. These problems never occurred with these fuels and worked great in older high compression engines used in the 70's and 80s. Especially taxis and city delivery vans. Class 8 trucks with diesel engines do use an oil separator. They can be used in gasoline engines too. But it's plumbing and maintenance headache. You also run the risk of an oil fire if it overflows from lack of servicing.
Keep up the good work Brian! My 2011 ecoboost has 300k on it now and my driver side blow off is venting more than just air. It's about time for major maintenance. Other than that your videos have kept my truck out of the shop for the past 9 years!
With 300k miles on your truck did you ever do a transmission oil change? Mine has about 105k and I’m wondering if I should change it works fine but trying to keep it to run forever
Got my wife's fusion with the 1.6l eco boost at the dealer now. It has a random misfire on cylinder 3. I've changed the plugs and swapped the coils to see if it would follow. No dice. Although I think it might be something else. I'll never own another ecoboost motor driven vehicle
For a Final Step: Scrub the valves manually with this-
amzn.to/2R4ah2K
Hey bud how much do a cleaning like this cost on 2012 f150 3.5 ? I heard Ford doesn’t do this cleaning is that true ?
Do you feel having an oil catch cans off of the PCV valve in conjunction with the CRC cleaner and new PCV valve every 20K would be adequate to keep carbon in check on GDI's? I have a Hyundai with a 2.4L. Thank you.
I was just going to ask about the CRC. Seems to have good reviews but was not sure about it.
Too much effort ,, get the big chunks off and then use BG carbon remover or go to a restaurant supply store and get the professional carbon remover for pots/pans (same as BG but a quarter of the price) .. turns that crap to liquid in MINUTES....
i have a 2015 ford expedition 3.5 eco boost and it is having a issue where when you accelerate up to around 2500 to 3500 rpms to pass someone or enter a freeway it starts missing and the check engine light flashes. would you say this is a carbon issue as well...it has happened cold start as well but not until it climbs a hill
I just did this on my Focus ST! I blasted it with walnuts tho. 180k miles!! The valves were WICKED!! What a brain fart of a design... Car ran so much better afterwards. Totally worth the effort.
walnut shells is alot faster and when you do as many as i do. the blaster is well worth it
@@dannybradford5551 how often would you recommend doing this to your car?
@@alexdonhauser8870 at least twice per time you fill up
@@alexdonhauser8870 What is the charge for that service? My dealer doesn’t do it
All in the name of getting 1/8 of a mile per gallon more. Ridiculous government standards.
Man keep this up. Regardless if I ever do any of these manual repairs myself, just great education for use when talking with mechanics and shops.
The more you know!
Did this on my 14 focus st. Before that it had a few misfires and what not. The carbon build up was pretty bad with 82k. I used crc and let it soak for about an hr on each valve while it was fully submerged. Then scrub with a hard thin brush. Then I would use a small vacuum attachment on my shop vac and suck it up. Repeat until it was smooth. Then installed catch cans 😁. She definitely idles better and has less misfires. Worth the troubles. I'd tape off the other valves that are already clean to keep them from getting debris inside from the dirty ones. great vid and info. Wish I found this sooner.
I love Ford Trucks. Man, Oh man, I wish you were my neighbor. Great videos I don't know how you do it but Sir your very much appreciated
Thanks for making this video, I just had the misfire issue for the first time at 107k and I was at a loss on how to clean the valves. The method you showed us worked great.
Do you solved the misfire?? Mine at 197000kms and after change spark plug start show misfire cilynder 4
Have a Mazda CX-5 with GDI. I’ve utilized the BG kit at approximately 80,000 miles. Engine oil is also important for reducing carbon build up. I use Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic engine oil as well.
Pennzoil is awesome oil! My 2nd choice is Motul oils.
Do you have a video on removing the intake on the 2.0 ecoboost. Looks pretty simple but always good to see a walk thru to avoid any surprises or mistakes. Really like your channel and have put several to use.
I would love to see a video with the injection induction cleaning process 🙏🏽
Thanks for sharing. Just goes to show why GDI coupled with a standard PCV system is a major design flaw in modern engines that are built this way. Any engine that uses GDI should come from the factory with an oil catch can or include redundant port injectors to keep the valves clean.
No strict need for a catch can but you do need a good air/oil separator in the PCV system, to get the oil mist out of the blowby and send it back to the sump.
A catch can is just another secondary air/oil separator, retrofitted because the OEM one is inadequate (or absent).
@@nerd1000ify or just a catch can
I do quite a bit of Walnut Shell Blasting. Definitely makes it look like factory new.
i have a 3.5 ecoboost with around 202,000 miles and have noticed a decline in gas mileage. Any idea where i can get a walnut shell blasting done? and how much will it run me?
@@easton._.141 A Lot of Shops can do that, about an hour or two for the blasting and whatever time it takes for dis and re-assembly. Periodic engine treatment will help keep down on buildup but on the other hand you done reeeeal good on getting that many miles without issue. I do not know if Ford has a top engine cleaner, personally I use GM product and swear by it. Way better than the CRC crap in my opinion.
Just called two dealers to see what they would charge to clean my valves. Both want to charge me between $135-$300 for doing the same thing I’ve already been doing with CRC’s GDI cleaner; I asked what the service consisted of… they told me they spray/ fog the intake. That’s what I’ve been doing on a regular basis… so, I’ll be doing this process myself. They’ll probably want $2000 to do it.
I run the CRC every 10k miles, yes it's probably excessive, but I have a bore scope and the valves look new.
Run bottle of BG 44k in gas tank. I do 2× yr in my gen2 - 2.3L Ecoboost Ranger truck. She runs perfect! 2yrs/19k mis. Use full synthetic 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum changed every 5k mis AT MOST. Always midgrade fuel.
@@Davido50 How does that clean the intake valves then???🤔
@@allanb3222 it doesn't
@@Davido50 this issue won't appear until 30k miles. No matter what good oil you use, the pcv system will still coat the valves with it
Perfect timing for this video. I'm wrapping up the timing chain job on my 3.5 ecoboost today. Your videos are incredible. Thank you Thank you Thank you!
How many miles on your 3.5? I am looking at maybe buying a used Ford Explorer Platinum with twin turbo 3.5L and 50k miles, and I'm a little concerned about durability. Not sure if it's worth buying one of these Ecoboost engines. Thanks
@@ChevySS1968 only 80k miles but that doesn't tell the whole story. I have used this truck a lot for hauling and haven't had a single issue other than this major one. If I can get another 5 or 6 years of use from the truck with no other issues I'll be happy. From what I understand, the timing chain issue is likely to happen so you should definitely factor that into your purchase decision. Definitely do a cold start of the vehicle and listen for the rattle
@@grilledxcheeze I have 285k on my 3.5. Needs its second chain job now. Aside from that its been a good engine. Did you find any build-up on your valves?
@@Wildwwill I did have some build up. I didn't get in there too much to clean that up but it is making consider a catch can. I did the weap hole thing and a noticeable amount of funk did come out. Glad to see you made it so far on your EcoBoost.
@@ChevySS1968 I have 254k on my 2013 F150 Lariat 3.5
Wish we had a mechanic like you close by here in central Ohio
Thanks for the tips. I did this and a catch can on my 2013 fusion 2.0 ecoboost and it wasnt too bad of a job! The catch can fills a good inch or 2 every 1000ish miles its suprising! Thanks for the vids!
Always the best explanation on the web !!!!! Master Mackoluso
Focus is out of focus, at least it's not trying to Escape. (Crappy joke, one of them days. 😏)
Ok, you get your ass outta here!! (Saying this in a joking way)
@Ben C You need to see yourself out to sir. Lmao!!!
no trying to Escape just went to Explorer but she finds herself on an Expedition
Once he's done cleaning and job is done we can have a little Fiesta 😏
Someones gonna have to Escort you outta here.. not tryna Flex but its a must
YES! Brain YOURE THE MAN!! I’ve been waiting for this video since I got my eco boost. Can’t wait to do this
When I bought my rs I got a catch can quickly, luckily the valves looked really good to my surprise, only a few had some baby mushrooms on the stems👍
BG 44k fuel treatment in gas tank 3-4× yr works wonders! Do it in my '19 Ranger XLT FX4 truck. Im sold on Ecoboost tech! All I buy & drive. Never go past 5k mis on oil changes & use OEM filters. I use Motul full synthetic 5w30 oil.
@@Davido50 Fuel treatments added to the fuel tank will do nothing to clean the intake valves because the fuel comes in the chambers after the valves. If you were right about fuel additives working then these videos wouldn't be out there.
@@pmaint1 he keeps posting that and I had the same response you did. Fuel additive will not help this issue.
Oil catch can from the start fixes this issue
Love to know your thoughts on the walnut blasting VS this method buddy. 👍🏻👍🏻
I've used the wynns de carbon foam a few times in gdi engines, I was actually surprised how well it worked
Damn, I was hoping to see the process of removing the intake. Thanks for the video, been waiting patiently since the last video as I need to do this myself.
Intake removal varies so much year to year and engine to engine so I couldn't possibly...
@@FordTechMakuloco No worries! I get it, have to reach a broad range of folks. I've got the identical car. Just looking for the easy way out!
@@elliottbran it’s just like 5 10mm bolts and the intake drops. Than just carefully remove the connectors.
Brian is so professional
That’s all due to insufficient filtration on the oil filter. These turbo charged direct engines require a 20 mic filter filtration, anything larger than that you see this happening. Try switching to the Amsoil filter with a good synthetic oil and you don’t have these issues. I use Amsoil signature series oil and I have 441,000 miles on my f150 3.5 ecoboost and I’ve never had these types of issues. I used a 40 mic filter when I first got it and the PCV fluid was black and gritty, I changed over to a 20 mic filter and the PCV fluid turned to a light brown fluid that feels like a good oil. The fluid will burn in the combustion chamber the black gritty stuff doesn’t.
Excellent thorough repair and video! Would you mind doing a tool box tour? Would be interesting to see what tools you mostly use to work on Ford vehicles.
Nice , appreciate the heck out of you and your videos. I have a 96 4 valve cobra with the same design issue . Different design but same issue . I cleaned mine with 1/2” round wire brush. To get around the valve I bent the end of it around itself , And then a slight 20deg bend. I use carb clean to break it up . Then I use brake clean to sterilize it . Blowing with a air gun covered with a rag so it doesn’t go everywhere.
at least the intake is facing the front on engine
Underrated comment, lol
Good trick I use is get the car to normal running temp then start tearing the I take manifold off. By the time you have the intake manifold off the engine cools enough and those deposits come off much easier when warm.
Junk engine! Requires major maintenance after only 80K. So glad my 99 Taurus has a 3.0 Vulcan - 22 years old, runs perfectly, never been apart.
Thanks for another great vid, always learn something here.
uhhh that's inherent with every GDI engine from every manufacturer, Mazda, VW, Honda, Subaru. Newer engines from Ford and Toyota have both port and direct injection system so this is no longer a problem.
Your 3.0 vulcan also only makes 140hp, and 160ftlbs of torque.
One of fords ecoboost engines, the 1.0 3 cylinder engine makes the same power and torque as your 3.0 v6 while getting over 50mpg.
I've got 185000 on my f150 3.5 ecoboost. I purchased new and have maintained it well. glad to see "BG" has come out with something safe for the turbos because I haven't replaced them yet.
What year and have you ever done this valve cleaning?
@@alphawolfadventures1470 2011. never had valves cleaned. ran borescope ay about 150k. not terrible. I don't let it idle much when cold which helps to warm up fast. I'm in NE Ohio. I do change brands of gas often which I've also heard helps with many varieties of detergents. I'm at 189k now.
@@paulmartin8212 yeah I’ve heard tier 1 gases are important (basically all the majors are t1) you run a catch can?
@@alphawolfadventures1470 no. never drilled any holes either. no problems with condensation.
@@paulmartin8212 thx man spending too much time on the Internet will have you thinking these will blow up at any time 😂 I guess like looking up what’s wrong with you instead of seeing a doctor “it’s a tumor” 😂 doctor- “you’ve got a sinus infection” 😂
So far no issues with my 2014 F150 with a 3.5 ecoboost. I do rev the engine fairly often, not abusing it, but not driving like grandpa either. Also using Pennzoil platinum synthetic oil. I also might have a tiny hole at the bottom of my intercooler to allow some of that gunk to blow out on its own without losing any boost of course, I say I “might” have a tiny hole. ;) ;)
If I were doing all this work to clean the intake valves every couple thousand miles, I'd probably just fabricate in some secondary fuel injectors to wash the valves down 1-2 times per drive cycle.
Having to do this more than once (or at all) is insane.
Not sure about fuel but I have been reading about people fabricating Methanol injection just for the cleaning. Using the existing windshield washer bottle an winter windshield wash. They are saying the Methanol content is high enough. Food for thought 🤔
@@thatguy3481 Thankfully I'll never run into this issue cause I have a port-injected 5.0, but that is an interesting idea. Thanks.
Great video! But it makes me sick knowing my EcoBoost is getting crusty. 🙈
I heard that some regular hard throttle can keep it from building up too bad.
It's the easy city driving or mild highway use that causes a lot of build up.
I'm nearing 100k on my F-150 and it's OK.
Nearing 80k on the Escape that the wife putts around town in and I think it's going to look more like this video.
It vibrates at 8dle a bit.
But no code yet.
@@PsalmFourteenOne if I go too much past half throttle it will "stutter". Its at 55k and been doing that since around 20k. I'm afraid to take it in to have it checked. Just waiting for the right situation to trade it.
@@WarrenRCG Now you're afraid to have it checked, but at 20k it was covered under warranty. Depending on what year and model car you have, you may have gotten close to a new motor put in.
@@WarrenRCG A 4 cylinder ecoboost in a car?
Our escape just vibrates at idle sometimes. Seems ok other than that.
My F-150 still runs like a raped ape.
I accelerate hard in it sometimes and drive it on the mountains so it probably heat cycles enough to cook that carbon off.
It's a 2015. Our escape is a 2014.
The new ones added port injection along with the GDI so they shouldn't have as much of the build up now.
@@PsalmFourteenOne 2015 Escape 2.0l 4WD I hardly drive anymore since I work from home now. Averaging 30 miles per week. It's got plenty of life left.
Love the video....I didn't have an air wand so a rigged up a shop vac with a Bic pen casing and made a mini vacume to get the crud out. Cheers
Thank you, new info about the cleaners.
Dang, I cant use my pressure washer ?
LOL.......... anyway, thanks for this video. I used two cans of CRC and nothing really happened. But after I took off the intake and cleaned the valves like you have shown here, the #2 cylinder misfire went away.
I did walnut blasting on an 2009 BMW 335i. More power and smoother idle.
An oil catch can kit can greatly reduce those service intervals,
Yup
He already has a great video showing how to install one😊
@@FordTechMakuloco will you put one on your new 2021? Or it is not needed?
@@FordTechMakuloco I wonder how many people just dump their catch cans down the drain?
I've often wondered - we can cut thick steel with a high-pressure water jet. Why couldn't we use a lower pressure on a small hand squirter maybe not unlike what dentists use, to blast the carbon off? We could have a suction tube in there to suck up the water and debris. Or maybe just use the air tube.
I need a Ford Tech Guru out here in SoCal!!! Keep up the good work and Videos
Your skills are great. My fix is never drive a GDI.engine
But they’re so efficient!
And the turbos love em. Cool me down daddy!
i have a carbon vac machine but with the intake desigs of todays cars the machine is not sufficent in cleaning the carbon off the valves. Renoving the intake on todays down draft intakes is the best way to get a good scrub on the intake valves. Also allows you to clean all the oil buildup from the pcv system in the intake by removal. Sea foam works good for me.
Weird. I was just researching this yesterday. Good timing!
Order BG 44k immediately! I did. Great 1st start. Just add to fuel every few mos. Be sure to run a good < full synthetic > engine oil & change @5k mis max. Otherwise Ecoboost is phenomenal. My 3rd Ecoboost vehicle. Never issues! Im very religious bout oil changes & fuel quality! Pennzoil Platinum is awesome. Motul is best if ur wallets are deeper. - Ohio
Ford senior master tech her just a tip try using the Motorcraft carb cleaner (PM3) just poor it in the intake port and cover the valve let it sit for 30 mins and blow it out it will look new - great video
I know the new 3.5 ecoboost f-150 has direct injection with the old school port injection to keep the intake washed out with fuel. Better system.
Makes me happy my 12 Eco blew up and I got a 20 5.0.
A high quality catch can would help with chunky oily carbon in the intake tubes, but ive only done it on turbo deisels .
You're 100% right, i put a good catch can on my 3.5l EB very early on.
Ran a borescope around 3 months ago at 77k miles and the valves have a very minor amount of carbon, but i also run a intake cleaner through the throttle body every 12k miles as well for cheap insurance.
Thus far shes awesome, but this is a great video no doubt for those who found out too late
People need to be made aware of this issue when they buy these vehicles new. I can't imagine explaining this to my coustomers
I'm sure the sale man tying to sell you that new car will let you know about the carbon build up issues
Its pretty much a buyer be aware issue. Be aware most Ford salesmen aren't going to tell you about GDI valve coking, and the dealer isn't going to do shit for induction service. If it doesn't throw a code, they ain't doing shit.
And they put them on the market without a plan to remedy the problem for years and years.
That is a un-masterful piece of engineering, all gunked up with just that mileage. Looks like Ford didn't give a damn about what happens in this Eco design after the warranty period.
Every GDI has this problem.
Not limited to Ford unfortunately.
Ford is the least susceptible to valve coking. This is nothing compared to some non-Fords I have seen with fewer miles. Ford has a patent to help curb valve coking. Should see what some Audi's look like with 40K on them!
@@acdii I remember hearing about the VW/Audi 2.0s when GDI first came out. Some would coke up enough to where the valves would hang open and blammo. 45-70k on them!
@@adamtrombino106 Yep, and a LOT of pictures that people claim to be the Ecoboost are all pictures of those Audi engines. This video is the first to actually show the buildup, and like I said, seen much much worse. This is nothing compared to old school carburated engines.
Would a catch can prevent the carbon buildup? If yes, what would you suggest for a 2.0L Lincoln Corsair?
I’ve got a Chevy v8 in my g8, I’m here just to see how your carbon cleaning goes lol I got injured, went a bit too long on an oil change and my pcv sucked in and coated up my intake lol baked on crap. It’s incredible since it’s not a direct injected engine.
Ya i called my gm dealer today and said i need a cleaning service done to help reduce the carbon, cause i mentioned i got a somewhat rough idle and it just doesn't seem to perform the way it should be, service guy said do you got a check engine light on , no i dont , he said cleaning the carbon wont solve your misfire, i kinda found that answer a little misleading. 2013 chev impala 3.6 lt
I'd say after 170k on my 14 escape it's probably due for a cleaning 😂
Yes! Now having nightmares about my '12 F-150 3.5 Eco with 220k on it!
What engine do you have in there?
Love the Escape! Good basic maintenance they run forever. Use the BG 44k fuel system treatment in ur fuel every few mos. U must run a great full synthetic oil! Tier1 fuel too yes?
@@joost1183 2.0 runs good and knock on wood no issues. So far besides filters, fluids, and plugs its all original.
@@Davido50 my girlfriend bought it originally but she bought a new 2020 so I bought her that one for a daily because it's better on fuel between my 6.0 powerstroke and mustang gt lol but honestly I just use regular 87 and motorcraft semi syn 5w30 in it always change the ptu oil every 10k and the trans every 30k and it's never given an ounce of issue. Runs really well but it does have the cold miss from never cleaning the valves.
Just needed to put a catch can system from the factory, been using them for years in drag racing on boosted engines, not a big secret . Engineers need to get off'n the porch every once in a while! LoL
That’s why I bought a Toyota RAV4 with both GDI and port injection to keep those valves clean. 😎
Since 2017 the 3.5 ecoboost in the f150 has had both.
Catch can's work wonders. Just have to remember to drain them.
Manufactures should install service ports on the intake runners for scheduled maintenance and cleaning of the intake valves.
Or make them dual injection
Oh, and there are kits... I believe I saw one that bolts on right there, 4 extra injectors... ported so they spray evenly down the split. Think the guy wanted like $1200 for the whole setup.
"upto 620hp without changing the hp fuel pump"...
"Dude, I just want to keep my valves clean"...
"Oh... It keeps the valves clean, really clean!"🤦♂️
I am using wynn's direct injection valve cleaner as we speak, together with some brushes.
I taped off one of the cyllinders cause that one is open i will now let it dwell for the night and see what it does, the ports toward the valve cleaned up very well so i have high hopes.
Another great, educational video. THANK YOU!!!!!
91 and full synthetic +150k on my 2.0 awd 2013 Escape and no problems so far... changed plugs once about to again soon. Ngk or Denso's on all my stuff
That job sure takes a deep cut into any gas $$$ saved. I have a 2021 Kia Forte 2.0 with GDI but i dont hear must about any Kia issues at least yet and my engine has been out for at least 3-4 years
My catch can on my 2013 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost catches about 1/2 a Dixie-cup of syrupy, coffee consistency fluid between each oil change. Not sure how much build-up that saves on the valves, but at least I can attest to it catching some of the blow-by.
This has to be a regular maintenance interval for those GDI engines in order for them to survive👍
Only ford lol
@@scottrussell6717 Lol...tell that to a turbocharged GM owner (Chevy Cruze)
🤣🤣🤣
Ford has had better luck w/ its TGDI engine design than most any other automakers ! Fact. On my 3rd Ecoboost vehicle. Never issues! Love em. I ordered 2 bottles BG 44k fuel system treatment after watching this you should to. Try Pennzoil Platinum awesome engine oil
@@scottrussell6717 always & forever! Ford rocks. All we buy new!
I knew this could be done, everyone says you need to get it walnut blasted. I figured a little bit of time with brake clean and brushes and you could do this in your own driveway.
I wonder if applying glyptal to the intake valves would be a viable solution for keeping oil deposits from ever sticking in the first place. I know people who have used that stuff inside crank cases to aid in return oil flow back to the sump, it creates a smooth non-stick surface inside the block.
Good idea for a build you'd have to ultra clean each one and somehow bake it before use though, doesn't work to well unless.
Give me the good old days of revving the engine a little and pouring a little water down the carb. Water turns to steam, engine backfired and carbon was gone.😎
Had to do that many years ago on my 74 Vega. Would ping no matter what I did until I used the water trick. Bunch of black smoke came out of the exhaust - no more ping.
Perfect! Great video! I've used those intake cleaners like I v system too. Don't work so well! This a for sure way to clean the valves!
Great info. Will a catch can help this issue any?
Yes it will
What’s a catch can..I’ve built Shelby 350s,500s,& Gt 40 engines the past 20+years and never heard of this term...thanks
@@FordTechMakuloco Is there a catch can you recommend for the 2016 3.5 ecoboost? My f150 has 42000 on it. Probably to late now 😂
@@FordTechMakuloco Would a 2016 F150 3.5L eco boost have this issue?
@@andrewrich6198 It can. It is a GDI engine. In 2017+ they switched to use both GDI and port injection, so the fuel should help keep the valves cleaner.
Should this be done as a preventative maintenance procedure? I am about to install a catch can on my 70000k mile EcoBoost, so as long as I am pulling the intake manifold off, maybe I should take on a cleaning on as well?
Would pistachio shells work as well as walnut shells for cleaning? They seem as tough or tougher, plus theyre easy to make your own supply whilst snacking🙄
I will happily ship out pistachio shells to anyone, free of change, just send it and get a return on it too lol.
Looking to do this on my '18 Focus ST, thanks for the video!
This is exactly why I run a catch can on my 13 f150 3.5.
Orileys brand brake clean knocks that gunk out really well. Of course some scrubbing is needed here and there
This is why i love my 383 stroker
So far my ST has 106,000 and hasn’t had an issue yet. I do have a catch can on it.
It’s ok as preventive Maintenance to use crc valve cleaner on my 2021 2.3 Ford explorer it has 11,500 miles, bought it with 5,000 miles and from there installed the oil catch can, using 5w-30 pennzoil ultra platinum.
thoughts on using a oil seperator or catch can to prevent this problem? would that help to prevent this build up?
When I oil catch can be helpful. I put one on my raptor with the 35
In Europe we use Mitsubishi EX Engine Conditioner instead of that carb cleaner.
So far so good after 148,000 miles on Shell V-Power Nitro+. Changed the original factory spark plugs at about 130,000; was still running great but I was concerned that a spark plug mechanical failure might destroy the engine. Turned out the plugs were still in decent condition.
Fuel is irrelevant in gdi because fuel is not sprayed on back of valves
@@858415 Thats not true!
@@niceguydmm fuel is sprayed directly into cylinder on gdi engines. Traditional port injection sprays fuel mixture into runner, which cleans back of intake valves. Type of fuel or additive into tank does nothing for GDI cars.
Try an oil catch can it will trap the sludgy oil and all you have to do is drain or empty it every 10,000 miles.
Someone needs to make an aftermarket kit where you can plumb in a single fuel/solvent injector, like a VW CIS cold start injector. This way you can run a yearly automated service cleaning cycle without any intake manifold disassembly required. I realize that's quite an engineering feat, but I think it would pay for itself after the traditional manual cleaning service, and has the benefit to prevent potential drivability issues too.
That would be simple enough. Tap a thread in the intake pipe. Snug a quick connect on there. When it comes time to service install an air line and bring it into the cab then blast it with solvent with the car warmed up at freeway speeds. A couple cans should do the trick.
@@markm0000 and smoke everyone behind you on the freeway.. night get some unwanted attenion for highway patrol
Ever try using a tube brush with a drill for after you got the chunks off?
Dry ice blasting works great also.
4 cylinders tend to suck on large vehicles. V6 is best for Ford Explorer.
Here's a question for you. As a dealer tech (not ford) do you think this repair/maintenance should be a warranty based repair or CP? I've had many debates with my warranty admin regarding this and neither the dealer nor the manufacturer has an answer. Just wanted your opinion
CP. Carbon deposits are not defects in materials or workmanship.
Warranty doesn't cover defects in the engineers' designs. That's why the manufacturers get sued and then offer "customer satisfaction" recalls...
No warranty it’s just maintenance.
PLEASE, I'm interested in what the injectors tip look like. Thanks
Future video coming.
Ditto!
Not trying to start a debate, but does a well designed catch prevent this?
I have a '15 F150 with 2.7 (DI only) EcoBoost. Had 75,xxx miles with a catch can since around 20,xxx miles.
The chevy has the same problem with the EGR everything in the rear. 13 hours for maintenance.
Wowwwwwwwww,smh,what you gonna do???
What about walnut shells. Works better ??what do u think
It works well but it makes a huge mess
Yes but requires adapter and special tools, this is something any diyer can do.
Contact the rust removing laser manufacture to see if they could design a laser tool on a wand to reach in these spots.
I would think a laser might be effect at this as it is on rust. Just a thought!
Informative video Brian thanks for sharing!
Get yourself a walnut blasting setup. Knock down the big chunks manually and then blast it for 30-60 seconds. Faster and comes out looking almost brand new.
Yup I may in the future but for right now I wanted to make a video on manual cleaning.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for doing the video. There are so many di engines now, it is much needed information.
Walnut blasting cleanings really should be routine maintenance, but no way is Ford going to add to the cost of ownership and endorse that.
I have a 16 escape 1.6l that I have torn apart right now because it has all the symptoms of a bad pcv valve, to find out it doesn't have a pcv valve. It instead has an air oil separator. Have you ever had to replace one? And I figured while I had the intake off I would clean the valves because they were worse than the ones in video
All because direct injection is the best idea ever, since the electric starter.
So great that they added port injection back into direct injection engines 😂
@@markkoranjr6426 Yep, let's scrub our valves every 10-20k miles, what fun! I'll add, I've seen plenty of carboned intake valves on even carbed engines (wet intake) to realize a dry intake valve is gonna be a problem. They had to know, yet did it anyway.
Do the new oils really help?
Thanks love your vids.
Yes they do
Use Full Synthetic Engine oil.
What about the oil separater? That GDI design is problematic.
The problem isn't the decision to implement Direct Injection.
The primary problem is crankcase ventilation that is positive pressure, being fed into the intake manifold. At hot operating temperature, it's not a problem. But during cold start up and warmup, the air in the oil pan, cylinder head and valve train cavity is cold and wet, which is sucked into the intake manifold along with cold EGR air. The oil and unburnt fuel then falls out of suspension and coats anything in the intake manifold and EGR system.
Then as the engine warms up to operating temperature, these deposits then bake onto the walls.
The problem has been around since the late 1960s when cylinder head / carburetor EGR plates were first used. Combustion engines can only develop negative crankcase pressure using a dry sump oil system. The drawback is complexity, parasitic horsepower loss and oil foaming / aeration depending on design. It also isn't a good application in cold operating temperatures.
EGR air pumps did work, but they also were problematic and required allot of horsepower. One of the advantages of propane or natural gas is its cold burn properties. These problems never occurred with these fuels and worked great in older high compression engines used in the 70's and 80s. Especially taxis and city delivery vans.
Class 8 trucks with diesel engines do use an oil separator. They can be used in gasoline engines too. But it's plumbing and maintenance headache. You also run the risk of an oil fire if it overflows from lack of servicing.
Keep up the good work Brian! My 2011 ecoboost has 300k on it now and my driver side blow off is venting more than just air. It's about time for major maintenance. Other than that your videos have kept my truck out of the shop for the past 9 years!
With 300k miles on your truck did you ever do a transmission oil change? Mine has about 105k and I’m wondering if I should change it works fine but trying to keep it to run forever
Could you make a video on how to remove the intake manifold?
Got my wife's fusion with the 1.6l eco boost at the dealer now. It has a random misfire on cylinder 3. I've changed the plugs and swapped the coils to see if it would follow. No dice. Although I think it might be something else. I'll never own another ecoboost motor driven vehicle
Does it help to drive these hard?