I notice on that Ford that there are grease pencil markings on the bottom of the rear end. This suggests to me that the rear end came out of a salvage yard. This, along with the general condition of the truck and your statement that it recently had a new clutch installed makes me think the truck was being driven by a kid who liked to do burnouts by bringing the engine up to stupid RPM and just DUMPING the clutch. The extreme shock load imposed by this occasionally leads to a catastrophic failure somewhere in the drive train. This would appear to be a prime example of why it's a bad idea. The damage here is actually pretty impressive.
Funny, you mentioned the burnouts. I used to do that and, fortunately, never damaged the drive train. My dad, not so lucky as a kid. Done in my grandfather's car, so dad did everything to hide that damage
Years ago I had a truck that used to blow drive shafts you joined she used to break out of it and for a long time I was pressing you joints in on the road trying to fix it had a box behind the seat finally I found out that I had bent yolk out of the transfer case but till I figured that out I went through about a dozen u-joints but I never lost to drive shaft somewhere in the road I managed to get it back in and back home have a good day
I have a 3.7l they drop valve seats easy when overheating anyone with a 4.7 or a 3.7 my advice is.... get a cooler thermostat and a better radiator heat will kill these engines, really tough motors but heat will zap them very quickly.
@@emer07jiffy I agree with you. A 3.7 can be a strong motor if it can be kept cool. The 3.6 was the first 21st century motor produced by Chrysler/Fiat/Whatever, and it's had it's share of problems, like the 2014 oil cooler fiasco.
Old trick when you suspect communication with coolant and oil, but it is not visibly contaminated. Put a drop of oil from the dip stick on the hot exhaust manifold. If there is any significant coolant in the oil it will spatter.
Hi Ray. Just want to thank you for what you do. The past couple of years I have fought Cancer twice and spent a great deal of time down and out and your channel made me laugh sometimes when I really needed it. Your way of presenting the videos is brilliant. I know you get some ugly comments so I hope this one finds you well. Keep up the good work. PS..Up here in Canada those wobbly bits wouldn't even be in the equation :)
Charlie, you may indeed live continents away from me here in Bonnie Scotland; But that said Charlie, may I both echo your succinctly and skillfully crafted words which in truth; describe not just your own, but many visitor/experiencers to Rays channel Rays' clearly pitched tone in delivery, but also whilst doing so; he doesnt try to baffle with unneeded patronising jargon, he calls a nut a nut and not "regulated securing attachment which requires this specialised wrench from Snap-On to secure" i.e. on goes lug nut or equivilent and *Click* job done. *Ray is too explaining fixing automobiles, what David Attenborough is too describing the minutiae' of critters/nature in their respective natural enviroments* *Ray For Sure Is A Natural Both; Diagnostic Engineer And Communicator* *Regarding your health Charlie please accept my most sincere wishes for a complete and full recovery, and if you are not offended shall, with your permission add you to my prayer lists/requests too the Saviour* Best Fyodor
When you said I don’t know what to tell them after seeing all that carnage on that pick-up, we have a saying here in the UK for that: it’s fucked mate 💀😂 Great content as always!
Listen Ray, I'm going to tell it to you how it is....I'm addicted to your videos brother lol. The content is great, filming is great, the commentary is amazing. HUGE thumbs up. Loving every minute of it. Keep up the great work!!!
Here I go again…ah…memories: Back in MY day we used to hold a piece of newspaper where it would hang over the exhaust pipe and the movement would give a visual representation of the miss. I think that was used because a lot of mechanics back then were partially deaf because of the noise level at the engine. No computers and LOTS of engine noise! Be safe.
we used to simply grab a plug wire with a well-insulated pair of pliers and remove it to see if the miss worsens or not, and would work down the line until we found the culprit. A couple of times, those pliers weren't as insulated as I thought and I developed a "miss".
My dad was ornery as all get out. I used to help him fix our old cars when I was little. Or be in the way. Anyway. He was like hold this plug wire while I crank it and see if there's any spark. Yeah there was spark all right I was electrified like The Rock. And he would just be laughing his butt off at me. I was a dumb kid didn't know any better. But I learned quick
Engine oil pressure is usually in the 50 PSI range, coolant pressure cap is limited at 15 PSI. You likely have a cracked head situation letting oil pass into the coolant through a micro crack in one of the heads. It was really overheated bad because there's no chance the engine head got freeze cracked damage in Florida. The crack is probably in the valve throat passage and coolant is getting sucked into that rear drivers side cylinder while oil is being pushed into the head cooling jacket.
yep how cheap stuff made now days i had olds 78 ford with 302 they was over heated 100s of times still run great owner before me woulnt fix leak keep runing it dry lol
My Saab 2.3t overheated twice recently(water pump broke, hose came off few days after replacing pump). Both times needle pegged full red. Stills runs fine, no mixing of fluids.
@@thingserik7269 It was meant that it can literally take only once overheating to ruin an engine. Doing so can cause numerous issues, many of which can lead to the death of the engine.
Ray, what I always do is take the suspected cylinder spark plug out and screw in my hose to that cylinder and by pushing 150 psi of air watch for air bubbles in the overflow tank.... if it does either cracked head or blown gasket. Takes a few minutes and you know right away.
Ray reads the "Caution: do not open when hot" warning on the radiator cap, as he gently opens the hot cap. This is one of the many reasons we like Ray so much. 😎
I had a 67 Impala 283 and I just think started seeming I got it home and it died in the parking spot started pulling plugs out my cousin said well check the plugs pulled out finally got to the back of the motor or the seven and eight hold seven out and it came out like a champagne Cork and antifreeze just spewed out then went over to eight and it did the same thing hold the heads had a busted head stud got the piece out put new head gasket had the heads deck both in the back together put all my fluids in and drove it and drove it for a long time remember when cars was simple made life easy and I did all this work in the street not in the garage hey those with a good old days buddy everybody have a good day
On another topic that guy with the squeegee at the end gave me flashbacks to basic training. The drill instructor gave us push brooms and told us to keep the rain off his parking lot in a storm like that. Lol.
this will be a front line vehicle at a tote your note lot in a month, then back to the shop in 5 weeks with a ruff engine. Ray can peek down the rabbit hole again.
I love watching your content! I may not be very knowledgeable on cars, but you are so willing to explain everything out and tell us whats going on 😊 Thank you for making content!
I can first hand agree to never open a hot rad especially when over heating. I had a truck overheating and squeezed the upper rad hose and the cap blew off and my arm got 3rd degree burn. Worst thing ever, thanks as always for the awesome videos.
I usually don't point fingers or criticize but if you have to and I mean absolutely have to do that do not use a paper rag put some heavy heavy rags over so and break it loose let the pressure off and then when it let's go it'll blow the cooling hot coolant down towards the ground and not towards your face have a good day
Hey Ray! just to let you know, the 3.7 loves to crack heads too. the 3.7 and 4.7 are basically the same motor just the 3.7 is missing 2 cylinders. they have the same hydraulic lifter issues and timing chain tensioner issues. basically if one has a common issue, the other likely has it too.
YEEPS... cuz they belong in trash heeps :P sorry I know all cars are bad cuz I was a mechanic too :P FERD FOUND ON the ROAD DEAD.... dont make me say what Pontiac stands for.... and the sad part is I'm addicted to rotary engines and boxer engines too soooo.... yeah lots of crying for me over broken stuffs.
I noticed that the power lead to the starter was Zip tied up. I'd say that the starter grenaded literally cracking the bell housing. And after that they were basically bump starting it . Probably parking it on hills to start it. And was on a steep hill and when they dropped the clutch they had it in Frist instead of second gear and Bamo took out the universal joint.
Or it could be the mechanic forgot to install the passenger side crossmember bolt as someone else mentioned at 9:44 LOL The zip tie probably was installed by the tow company or the shop when they went to get it as it did not drive back!
Another great job Ray. You have no idea how many people would love to have. You as my next door neighbor Simple one of the best. 🇺🇸💙🇺🇸🚔 Keep up the great work Ray. God bless you and your family !!! 😁👍😊
I was hoping for the owner's sake if they're willing to fix it it was just a gasket but I have a suspicion is more Carnage than that because of the stuff that was inside the cylinder have a good day
Boy I remember those Jeep’s and dodge from around 2003 to 2013 they where so cheap inside. Love watching ray vids it makes me miss the work kinda but also remember the headaches of it😂
Reminds of when I was a kid and got my first car. Head gasket went and mixed oil with the coolant. Using my Haynes manual, I stumbled my way through changing out the head gasket, which I was incredibly proud of. Some dummy told me to add paint thinner to the coolant which would break down the oil residue prior to flushing. Sounded logical so I did it. Went for a drive and nearly every coolant hose either popped or bulged. Towed home and spent a small fortune (to me at the time) replacing all hoses, mostly from the wreckers. Fortunately I’m a much more proficient mechanic now and only add paint thinner to the gas as a cheap injector cleaner. Jk.
I did a timing chain on a 2003 Camry I own with 282K miles. Needed it, the Toyota service manual said, drain oil and remove pan. CZcams said nah, just remove the 4 bolts holding the timing cover to the Pan the reseal when done. Yeah, after I was done and I did put a half tube sealant 😂 it still leaked oil. Next day, took the pan off, regasketed it and put it on no leaks. Lesson learned, follow the instructions
The toughest engine is the old school jeep 4.0. My brother had one and it had a leaking radiator. He would fill it up at home and at work but sometimes it would run out before getting there and run without coolant for periods of time. It never got any issues. He sold it and the new owner would take it cross country and never had any issues with the engine.
Four months ago I bought a low-mileage '99 Cherokee with the 4.0L. It's a great motor, plenty of smooth torque, decent on gas (when factoring in the t-case, automatic tranny, and a body with the aerodynamics of a flying brick), capable of 300k or more with routine maintenance.
Good old Rambler engine, designed in the Stone Age of engine design. Engineering rational was "Does this feature make it run? If not then it doesn't need it"
As always, this is entertaining but also informative. Me, I love playing around with cars, I currently have 7. I watch a huge number of youtube channels, and to be honest when I come up to something and get stuck, I often say to myself, "What would Ray do?" Now there's a compliment...
You are one great mechanic. If you were near Tampa I will take my vehicle over there for you to fix it. You are great what you do. Keep up the good work. See you on TV again soon
Good day to you Ray from your friends in the UK 🇬🇧, even if we are sad at the moment at the loss of a great, inspirational, and humble lady. Rest in peace Elizabeth 😢
Many years ago I had an oil gallery to combustion chamber leak type head gasket failure. It was rather a lot of burning oil. I pulled up in a petrol station to check, opened the bonnet, there was so much smoke the console operator shut down the pumps because he thought my car was on fire. That was an E series Falcon, so head gasket failures were not uncommon until Ford developed an MLS style head gasket.
Had similar thing happened to wife’s 2 litre Ford Granada. Head gasket went and we were leaving a smoke cloud behind us. Really embarrassing couldn’t see a thing behind us. Garage had head skimmed and new gasket fitted. No further problem, ran for yrs. Great car still miss it. Had 2 litre duel over head cam engine.
My dad cooked the crap out of his ED Fairmont towing caravan across Nullarbor, to the point of climate control displaying 90c. He didn't fix it, and still running over 15 years later.
One day it started raining, and it didn’t quit for four months. We been through every kind of rain there is. Little bitty stingin’ rain, and big ol’ fat rain, rain that flew in sideways, and sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath. It even rained at night.
Ray, which borescope are you using in this video? I’ve been looking to pick one up and am exploring different options, would like one that I can use with my phone for easy recording and picture taking. Always look forward to your videos I’m usually at work when they get published but I make the time to listen/watch them while I work! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and humor with us!
Great vids ray, always fun to see your process of deduction. Looking through the parts catalog to see if the cooling system was hooked up to anything else is something I probably wouldn't have thought of. 👍
At 9:44 it looks like the bolts for the transmission crossmember to the frame rails are missing. If those bolts fell out that could have allowed the transmission to move out of alignment under torque from acceleration, which could cause the driveshaft to bind and the u joint cap to break, and then as you said that event could have grenaded the transmission. I could be mistaken but aren't there supposed to be two bolts on each side bolting that crossmember to the frame rails that should be visible coming through those two holes on the rail?
There should be one bolt on either side. The right side bolt is missing. The other holes is for crossmember adjustment for different transmissions. The same frame has been used since about 1981 or 1982
Yes you are right. That also explains the exhaust being broke when the crossmember came up and slammed against it. I would like to see if the shop admits this or tells costumer it's not anything they did. Ouch it's going to be a big hit over 1 bolt being left out.
Personally I think well yeah the boats were missing but personally I think somebody was out on the weekend cruising around had half a bag on ran off the road and ran over something pretty big knock the starter motor and the drive shaft out stumbled home got a friend the next morning they went and drag it home with the chain and I could be wrong but just an assumption of my part have a good day
I think it's worth dropping a used engine in it. Replace the radiator and flush the evaporator core. Should run around $3k and the Jeep is worth about $8k, at least it is out here in the SW.
If you can afford $3k in repairs, are you really going to be driving a $8k vehicle? You are probably better off doing minimal repairs and trading it off.
I love our 91 F350 so much, if it had the same damage, I'd repair it. No questions asked, it would get repaired. It's a Dualie, with a full crew cab and the 8' bed. It would take us a while, but we'd get it running again.
I assume the failure chain started with the water pump leak which lead to low coolant which lead to overheating which destroyed the engine. Another vehicle sent to an early grave because auto-manufacturers deliberately avoid providing low-coolant and over-heat engine protection systems.
More than likely on that missing drive shaft is that the "uni" joint failed on the front end and it dropped and was shoved violently against the rear "uni" breaking the support. IF the car was moving, the drive shaft could have even "pole vaulted" the rear of the car up in the air. I've always thought that a safety bracket or cable should be mounted just below where the front end of the drive shaft attaches for just those occasions. That way the shaft will be caught and not dropped on the ground.
Doesn't explain how it could have hit the starter which is well in front of the driveshaft. I think it's more likely the owner ran over over something on the road, or managed to get it in a ditch and landed the underside on some rocks.
@@ferrumignis True but since we were not there when it happened, things...........strange things happen. It's obvious that it was a very violent event.
@@Echristoffe Did you see the mythbusters episode where they investigated whether a broken driveshaft coukd flip a car? Even if the front end dug into a pot hole they could only make the rear jump a bit.
Depending on the condition of the rest of the vehicle, maybe a junkyard engine or 'rebuilt' could be an alternative to junking. Although not a stellar product (model) from the get-go.
LOL typical male reaction, and there's another 6 thousand of us gear head viewers thinking the same thing. I bet some guys already have this jeep envisioned as a rock crawler with a new gen Hemi swap. Reality sets in.... It's a 2011 tin can that was rode hard and put away wet. Its kinda like trying to feed oats to a dead horse. The jeep's only worth is to someone with enough interest, extra time, money and resources they got to throw at it. I'm assuming, given the jeeps age and present condition, the person who owns it, is most likely low income, doesn't have a fist full of dollars and its their primary mode of transportation for getting to and from work. I agree to an extent but in this instance, I think it would be wise for the jeep owner to cut the loss and just buy something else that is dependable.
@@IR-nq4qv I don't know that it is fair to say they are low income. It is a perfectly acceptable grocery getter. Not everybody needs a top of the line vehicle to drive the kids to soccer practice. At the end of the day, this is still someone's transportation and it was probably doing just fine till the head gasket blew, or whatever went wrong with it. However, I don't think doing an engine swap on an $8k car is a good idea. If you have the four grand it is going to cost to replace the engine, then you are probably better off sinking that into getting another vehicle. Unless the car is paid off and you can't afford a payment of any type (in which case, why would you have four thousand bucks sitting around to repair it?) then repairing it just doesn't seem like a good idea. Better to sell it to someone for three or four grand and let them do the swap if they feel like it. It's not about being low income or high income. It's about sinking half the value of the car into the repair of that car. IT's still only worth $8k even with a new engine in it, so it makes it a tough decision.
@@ocdetails I’ll bet this jeep was on the deferred maintenance program, where you don’t open the hood EVER, no oil changes. Then a few years later when the needle is pegged on “H” for a few days, the driver says “hmm, what’s up with that?” They accept zero responsibility, learned nothing, and will definitely do the same in the next car.
"Non-Jeep" is correct, sir. For the last several years if you ask what I drive, it's a Wrangler. I know a guy that insists that his Renegade is a "real Jeep, made by Jeep".
It's possible there is a leak of engine oil somewhere in the highest pressure part, enough that the engine oil is overpowering the pressure of the coolant and is just squrting into the coolant, which is bad.
There is a definite crack and the combustion pressure in the cylinder is pushing oil back into the coolant which is a lower pressure side have a good day
That looked like a leaf and sand in that first cylinder, you can see all that debris around the spark plugs threads going in.. Just make sure to blow out every sparkplug hole before removing plug. The Ford looks almost like they were testing that new clutch doing some high rev clutch drops.. I'd be looking for new wear on rear tires . however that's inconclusive because it may have blown the first pull. But I bet they were excited about a new clutch and just hauling butt and lost it at a stop light taking off.
And pick up the rear end will start spinning before the drive shaft to let go unless they had a heavy load in it it's a possibility you never know what people all around bars the tires they're probably in bad shape before they even did a burnout if they did a burnout who knows that thing was a mess hey have a good day
Transmission cross member wasn't bolted on. At 9:55 there should be 2 bolts sticking down that hold the crosdmember on. Under engine torque the Transmission moved enough to bind up the driveshaft breaking the housing on one end and the u-joint on the other end. 100% the shops fault.
Hey Ray, I had the opposite fluid contamination happen to me on my Kawasaki Concours. The coolant got into the oil, and tuned the oil that coffee with creamer color you were seeing on the Jeep. Even the shop I had it at wasn't sure about it- But they had also just set the bike on fire, so I wasn't going to let them have the bike any longer. (long story, and unrelated..) Since the engine didn't seem to be burning coolant or oil, and no external leaks- my focus shifted towards the water pump. There were minor tales on the internet of the concours pump seals going bad and allowing coolant to get into the oil system through a weep hole. Not willing to give up on the bike, I pulled the trigger and got a new water pump and installed it myself. Got lucky, as that seemed to be the cause of the contamination. It was strange because it was a one-way contamination of fluids, but the bike is still running 10K after the repair, and in about 3K or so more miles it will turn 100,000, and then I can sell it with zero miles on the odometer! Thanks as always for the chronicles!
Get the fork, it's done. Up here in the rust belt, that would be a good candidate for an engine swap for either a good used one, if any exist, or a rebuild. @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Lmao then you'll luuurve this story... One day i was working on a clients car, now in South Africa it is illegal for garages to charge to fill the tank for repairs, the client has to provide the cash then we " fetch the fuel" and continue working on the car. I go to the client and say to her, we need to collect money for fuel as the tank is empty and we cannot test it if it's empty. Her reply, you're driving it, you put in fuel. My reply... We are contracted by you to work on your car, we are not hiring the car nor borrowing it. If you dont supply the fuel, the car can stay in pieces and you can get someone else to finish the job.
To be fair, the vehicle was overheating. I'd probably hesitate to make a stop at a gas station. Plus if they give you bad news, the last thing you want to think about is that you just put gas in a vehicle you will probably never drive again. But still, this is why some guy invented the gas can. Put a gallon or two of gas in it so that you don't make the mechanic spend time getting gas for you.
The F-150 reminds me of a story an automotive instructor once told me. Some students were reinstalling a manual transmission and they didn't engage the input shaft with the clutch friction disc. They used the bellhousing bolts to force the transmission into place and busted the bellhousing of the transmission, which also destroyed the clutch disc. As he mentioned, a good practice is to verify that the transmission mates against the engine with a healthy "clunk" by hand before bolting it to the engine. It's also good to rotate the output shaft and shift the transmission in and out of gear to make sure the splines are engaged before bolting it up.
I have a jeep liberty that has the sludge in the coolant like that. It has been running for about a year with no real problems. I did flush it really good.
Two possibilities have occurred, overheated from waterpump leak and they added two different types of coolant that don't mix causing it to make what looks like jellyfish. In this case I believe that you are correct head problem oil getting back into antifreeze since no white smoke out exhaust like coolant into combustion chamber. I have never really liked jeeps to prone for engine problems
I think you are on to something with the 2 coolants. Jeeps take orange coolant. It looked like I saw green. I’m still watching so I could be wrong. But 8 know they take orange coolant
@@RacingRacing-lf3fw He's not. The whole "don't mix coolants" thing is largely an old wives tail. You should try to match what you already have but it's most likely not going to gunk up if you get it wrong either.
@@MonkeyJedi99 The actual base of almost all coolants is the same, what's different is the additive package that prevents corrosion. You start mixing them and the effectiveness of the additive package becomes a mystery, that's it. As you said, color is also no indication of what additive package a coolant uses.
That looks like a buggered head gasket/cylinder head to me. Where the leak is determines what happens - coolant into the engine oil, coolant into the exhaust, exhaust into the coolant, engine oil into the coolant - or any combination of the above. With that F150, I bet the rear driveshaft joint siezed up, broke, and the subsequent whirling of the shaft connected to nothing at one end cracked the the bellhousing and took the starter with it.
I had blown head gasket once, that was dumping oil into the #4 cylinder (on a 4 banger). When I reved the engine, I laid down a smoke screen just like a WW2 destroyer!
That's also a strong possibility but how that drive shift got up to the starter motor is beyond me cuz it had to make one hell of a racket I blown drive shafts but I mean I picked them up took them home well I actually threw it in the four-wheel drive and use the front wheels to get home you can do what you got to do if you use a little ingenuity hey have a good day
If the drive shift broke at the rear end it couldn't whip around enough to hit the starter motor if it did it would have beat up everything underneath that car and if the front broke loose it might hit the star tomorrow motor then those planted in the ground pole vaulted the rear end and broke it off I've seen it happen man the rear end of all about six feet in the air it's a fun ride not really hey have a good day
Used to live in western PA myself. Good point on inspection. Used to see a lot of vehicles from Ohio where they don’t have inspection. Unreal. Also, lived in CA many years. No safety inspection just checked to see if your vehicle has bad breath. Lots of accidents there because of bed tires and brakes.
I notice on that Ford that there are grease pencil markings on the bottom of the rear end. This suggests to me that the rear end came out of a salvage yard. This, along with the general condition of the truck and your statement that it recently had a new clutch installed makes me think the truck was being driven by a kid who liked to do burnouts by bringing the engine up to stupid RPM and just DUMPING the clutch. The extreme shock load imposed by this occasionally leads to a catastrophic failure somewhere in the drive train. This would appear to be a prime example of why it's a bad idea. The damage here is actually pretty impressive.
Good eye on the code on the rear end. Definitely a junkyard unit. That ride is toast lol.
Funny, you mentioned the burnouts. I used to do that and, fortunately, never damaged the drive train. My dad, not so lucky as a kid. Done in my grandfather's car, so dad did everything to hide that damage
Years ago I had a truck that used to blow drive shafts you joined she used to break out of it and for a long time I was pressing you joints in on the road trying to fix it had a box behind the seat finally I found out that I had bent yolk out of the transfer case but till I figured that out I went through about a dozen u-joints but I never lost to drive shaft somewhere in the road I managed to get it back in and back home have a good day
Maybe the diff was there in the first place, I’m sure ray would’ve picked up on that. I recon they hit a foreign object, fun video 🇦🇺
@@jimamizzi1
Obviously it came there with the rear end already in. The numbers are stock numbers for a junkyard.
"Ooh, that's less than ideal." -- understatement of the day.
I think you nailed it, Ray. Likely chain of events from my experience with 3.7: Leaking water pump, low coolant, overheated, cracked cylinder head.
and whatever was going on with that piston.
I have a 3.7l they drop valve seats easy when overheating anyone with a 4.7 or a 3.7 my advice is.... get a cooler thermostat and a better radiator heat will kill these engines, really tough motors but heat will zap them very quickly.
@@emer07jiffy I agree with you. A 3.7 can be a strong motor if it can be kept cool. The 3.6 was the first 21st century motor produced by Chrysler/Fiat/Whatever, and it's had it's share of problems, like the 2014 oil cooler fiasco.
@@jayztoob dont forget the 3.6l oilfilter housing leaks
@@lsswappedcessna
I think the flakes on the piston was carbon with was getting power washed by the head gaskets leak into that cylinder.
Missing a drive shaft brings a whole new set of diagnostics to the table when somebody says they have a engine miss.
That Ford was the gift that just keeps on giving. Every time the camera moved there was something else.
And, Ray stated later....it had no windows. I've heard some junk yards pay $500 for junk cars.
Some vehicles, by mechanics, need to avoid at all cost.
Old trick when you suspect communication with coolant and oil, but it is not visibly contaminated. Put a drop of oil from the dip stick on the hot exhaust manifold. If there is any significant coolant in the oil it will spatter.
Prehistoric knowledge
@@almarkowbender Correct. This was how they checked for blown head gaskets in the late teens and early 20's of the twentieth century.
Im about to become a Tech so I will consider using this when possible, Thank you
Hi Ray. Just want to thank you for what you do. The past couple of years I have fought Cancer twice and spent a great deal of time down and out and your channel made me laugh sometimes when I really needed it. Your way of presenting the videos is brilliant. I know you get some ugly comments so I hope this one finds you well. Keep up the good work. PS..Up here in Canada those wobbly bits wouldn't even be in the equation :)
Charlie, you may indeed live continents away from me here in Bonnie Scotland; But that said Charlie, may I both echo your succinctly and skillfully crafted words which in truth; describe not just your own, but many visitor/experiencers to Rays channel Rays' clearly pitched tone in delivery, but also whilst doing so; he doesnt try to baffle with unneeded patronising jargon, he calls a nut a nut and not "regulated securing attachment which requires this specialised wrench from Snap-On to secure" i.e. on goes lug nut or equivilent and *Click* job done.
*Ray is too explaining fixing automobiles, what David Attenborough is too describing the minutiae' of critters/nature in their respective natural enviroments* *Ray For Sure Is A Natural Both; Diagnostic Engineer And Communicator*
*Regarding your health Charlie please accept my most sincere wishes for a complete and full recovery, and if you are not offended shall, with your permission add you to my prayer lists/requests too the Saviour*
Best
Fyodor
@@Fyodor48 Thank you very much and please do.
Im a retired master tech and love the channel. I am so glad I don't have to deal with working on cars anymore.
Trust me I do not miss it LOL
When you said I don’t know what to tell them after seeing all that carnage on that pick-up, we have a saying here in the UK for that: it’s fucked mate 💀😂
Great content as always!
🤣
Lol!
our expression for a pick-up like that is "You just need to jack up the radiator cap and throw a brand new car under it and it will be fine."
It’s fooked lol
Yes we say it how it is dont we!!
It will cost more to fix it, then the jeep itself. Jeep heaven.
Listen Ray, I'm going to tell it to you how it is....I'm addicted to your videos brother lol. The content is great, filming is great, the commentary is amazing. HUGE thumbs up. Loving every minute of it. Keep up the great work!!!
I agree :-)
100% agree very addicted to these amazing videos. Keep up the amazing work you dodedoo
I feel exactly the same way.
Me too. I have no idea why I watch these videos but I am hooked.
I first round Ray last July iirc. Then came the weeks of isolating after catching the Bug. Binged episodes to pass the time.
I love how through you were saved the customer alot of money especially with the amount of Mileage
One thing I say for Ray he always goes above and beyond trying to help the customer have a good day
Here I go again…ah…memories: Back in MY day we used to hold a piece of newspaper where it would hang over the exhaust pipe and the movement would give a visual representation of the miss. I think that was used because a lot of mechanics back then were partially deaf because of the noise level at the engine. No computers and LOTS of engine noise! Be safe.
we used to simply grab a plug wire with a well-insulated pair of pliers and remove it to see if the miss worsens or not, and would work down the line until we found the culprit. A couple of times, those pliers weren't as insulated as I thought and I developed a "miss".
My dad was ornery as all get out. I used to help him fix our old cars when I was little. Or be in the way. Anyway. He was like hold this plug wire while I crank it and see if there's any spark. Yeah there was spark all right I was electrified like The Rock. And he would just be laughing his butt off at me. I was a dumb kid didn't know any better. But I learned quick
Kids these days: "News...paper"? Lol 😆
@@adotintheshark4848 Been there done that and boy does it jolt you. 🤣
Engine oil pressure is usually in the 50 PSI range, coolant pressure cap is limited at 15 PSI. You likely have a cracked head situation letting oil pass into the coolant through a micro crack in one of the heads. It was really overheated bad because there's no chance the engine head got freeze cracked damage in Florida. The crack is probably in the valve throat passage and coolant is getting sucked into that rear drivers side cylinder while oil is being pushed into the head cooling jacket.
"It only overheated once" That is all it takes sadly
yep how cheap stuff made now days i had olds 78 ford with 302 they was over heated 100s of times still run great owner before me woulnt fix leak keep runing it dry lol
My Saab 2.3t overheated twice recently(water pump broke, hose came off few days after replacing pump). Both times needle pegged full red. Stills runs fine, no mixing of fluids.
@@thingserik7269 It was meant that it can literally take only once overheating to ruin an engine. Doing so can cause numerous issues, many of which can lead to the death of the engine.
@@thingserik7269 better keep it not many engines can do that now days
"Only overheated once then driven 50 miles home with no coolant."
Ray, what I always do is take the suspected cylinder spark plug out and screw in my hose to that cylinder and by pushing 150 psi of air watch for air bubbles in the overflow tank.... if it does either cracked head or blown gasket. Takes a few minutes and you know right away.
Ray reads the "Caution: do not open when hot" warning on the radiator cap, as he gently opens the hot cap. This is one of the many reasons we like Ray so much. 😎
Its amazing that motor still runs. Mudd water is not good for a motor. Have a great day. Stay safe and be well.
I had a 67 Impala 283 and I just think started seeming I got it home and it died in the parking spot started pulling plugs out my cousin said well check the plugs pulled out finally got to the back of the motor or the seven and eight hold seven out and it came out like a champagne Cork and antifreeze just spewed out then went over to eight and it did the same thing hold the heads had a busted head stud got the piece out put new head gasket had the heads deck both in the back together put all my fluids in and drove it and drove it for a long time remember when cars was simple made life easy and I did all this work in the street not in the garage hey those with a good old days buddy everybody have a good day
“Is that a garden hose? Yes, yes it is” 😂😂😂😂
On another topic that guy with the squeegee at the end gave me flashbacks to basic training. The drill instructor gave us push brooms and told us to keep the rain off his parking lot in a storm like that. Lol.
".......... like putting lipstick on a pig." Love it 🇬🇧
Still a pig, but a little prettier.....LOL
Brilliant diagnosis. Love your videos. 👍👍
this will be a front line vehicle at a tote your note lot in a month, then back to the shop in 5 weeks with a ruff engine. Ray can peek down the rabbit hole again.
Hey love your analogy brilliant man have a cool day man and everything will be all right hey have a good day
As soon as I saw Jeep Liberty I knew this was going to be a fun video to watch.
I find your videos therapeutic and educational. They are very help for a novice mechanic like myself. Thank You!
I love watching your content!
I may not be very knowledgeable on cars, but you are so willing to explain everything out and tell us whats going on 😊
Thank you for making content!
Pressurize the crankcase with a smoke machine, you will be able to see if the smoke is bubbling out of the coolant cap
Spot on diagnosis as always
This has to be one of the most interesting vids you ever put out. NICELY DONE!
Something tells me that the U-joint failing was a combonation of it needing to be replaced and someone dumping the clutch constantly
I can first hand agree to never open a hot rad especially when over heating. I had a truck overheating and squeezed the upper rad hose and the cap blew off and my arm got 3rd degree burn. Worst thing ever, thanks as always for the awesome videos.
I usually don't point fingers or criticize but if you have to and I mean absolutely have to do that do not use a paper rag put some heavy heavy rags over so and break it loose let the pressure off and then when it let's go it'll blow the cooling hot coolant down towards the ground and not towards your face have a good day
I hear the scientists have said that steam can be 212 degrees Fahrenheit... or much hotter!
This was a good video, I loved the troubleshooting sequence. I kind of figured it was done when I saw the coolant.
Thank you for not letting us keep wondering . That was good . You covered all possibilities.👍🏼👍🏼
Hey Ray! just to let you know, the 3.7 loves to crack heads too. the 3.7 and 4.7 are basically the same motor just the 3.7 is missing 2 cylinders. they have the same hydraulic lifter issues and timing chain tensioner issues. basically if one has a common issue, the other likely has it too.
I know the 4.7 hates being overheated, that's why I take such great care of my cooling system so I don't have to hear my heads are warped/cracked
YEEPS... cuz they belong in trash heeps :P sorry I know all cars are bad cuz I was a mechanic too :P FERD FOUND ON the ROAD DEAD.... dont make me say what Pontiac stands for.... and the sad part is I'm addicted to rotary engines and boxer engines too soooo.... yeah lots of crying for me over broken stuffs.
@@CrazyCat229 If it aint broke, just wait a year or two.
@@CrazyCat229 KGB tt
@@airplanemaniacgaming7877 True. Although I have had good luck with wankles on the track.
looks like the result of dexcool mixing with green.major issue when the stuff came out everyone thought you could just mix them
Oh crap, I was told by a coworker that coolent is coolent. Change of plans for tomorrow got to get that crap out.
I always enjoy your videos, learn alot and enjoy your work ethic, awsome job.
Great video! I like that you kept looking even though you were pretty sure what was going on
I also noticed that you had bubbles coming out of the radiator which is a good indication of head gasket leak.
I noticed that the power lead to the starter was Zip tied up. I'd say that the starter grenaded literally cracking the bell housing. And after that they were basically bump starting it . Probably parking it on hills to start it. And was on a steep hill and when they dropped the clutch they had it in Frist instead of second gear and Bamo took out the universal joint.
Or it could be the mechanic forgot to install the passenger side crossmember bolt as someone else mentioned at 9:44 LOL The zip tie probably was installed by the tow company or the shop when they went to get it as it did not drive back!
Great/thorough diagnosis most mechanics or garages wouldn't have gone the distance. well done
Another great job Ray. You have no idea how many people would love to have. You as my next door neighbor Simple one of the best. 🇺🇸💙🇺🇸🚔 Keep up the great work Ray. God bless you and your family !!! 😁👍😊
i LOVE that you diagnose things to death because its a great teaching tool and shows your experience!
Good times replacing my radiator because the LIM gaskets on my Commodore failed and dumped oil into the coolant. Nice sludge.
I was hoping for the owner's sake if they're willing to fix it it was just a gasket but I have a suspicion is more Carnage than that because of the stuff that was inside the cylinder have a good day
Boy I remember those Jeep’s and dodge from around 2003 to 2013 they where so cheap inside. Love watching ray vids it makes me miss the work kinda but also remember the headaches of it😂
Love the ending, with the 'Florida Hurricane' - LOL
Reminds of when I was a kid and got my first car. Head gasket went and mixed oil with the coolant. Using my Haynes manual, I stumbled my way through changing out the head gasket, which I was incredibly proud of. Some dummy told me to add paint thinner to the coolant which would break down the oil residue prior to flushing. Sounded logical so I did it. Went for a drive and nearly every coolant hose either popped or bulged. Towed home and spent a small fortune (to me at the time) replacing all hoses, mostly from the wreckers. Fortunately I’m a much more proficient mechanic now and only add paint thinner to the gas as a cheap injector cleaner. Jk.
I did a timing chain on a 2003 Camry I own with 282K miles. Needed it, the Toyota service manual said, drain oil and remove pan. CZcams said nah, just remove the 4 bolts holding the timing cover to the Pan the reseal when done. Yeah, after I was done and I did put a half tube sealant 😂 it still leaked oil. Next day, took the pan off, regasketed it and put it on no leaks. Lesson learned, follow the instructions
I used Cascade dish powder mixed with coolant to clean everything up. Then flushed it all out, works great.
The toughest engine is the old school jeep 4.0. My brother had one and it had a leaking radiator. He would fill it up at home and at work but sometimes it would run out before getting there and run without coolant for periods of time. It never got any issues. He sold it and the new owner would take it cross country and never had any issues with the engine.
Four months ago I bought a low-mileage '99 Cherokee with the 4.0L. It's a great motor, plenty of smooth torque, decent on gas (when factoring in the t-case, automatic tranny, and a body with the aerodynamics of a flying brick), capable of 300k or more with routine maintenance.
Good old Rambler engine, designed in the Stone Age of engine design. Engineering rational was "Does this feature make it run? If not then it doesn't need it"
Wow, very risky
Love your narrations Rainman.
This channel is so much fun. Something different almost every time.
As always, this is entertaining but also informative. Me, I love playing around with cars, I currently have 7. I watch a huge number of youtube channels, and to be honest when I come up to something and get stuck, I often say to myself, "What would Ray do?" Now there's a compliment...
As I am watching, we are getting that sort of rain outside. Fun to watch that level of rain when you are completely protected inside. :)
I love these videos so much thank you RAY
You are one great mechanic. If you were near Tampa I will take my vehicle over there for you to fix it. You are great what you do. Keep up the good work. See you on TV again soon
Good day to you Ray from your friends in the UK 🇬🇧, even if we are sad at the moment at the loss of a great, inspirational, and humble lady. Rest in peace Elizabeth 😢
Condolences, friend. Her and I shared a birthdate. 4/21
It's sad to see her go she was a beautiful lady have a good day man
May she rest in peace after such long and hard duty.
Many years ago I had an oil gallery to combustion chamber leak type head gasket failure. It was rather a lot of burning oil. I pulled up in a petrol station to check, opened the bonnet, there was so much smoke the console operator shut down the pumps because he thought my car was on fire. That was an E series Falcon, so head gasket failures were not uncommon until Ford developed an MLS style head gasket.
Had similar thing happened to wife’s 2 litre Ford Granada. Head gasket went and we were leaving a smoke cloud behind us.
Really embarrassing couldn’t see a thing behind us.
Garage had head skimmed and new gasket fitted. No further problem, ran for yrs.
Great car still miss it. Had 2 litre duel over head cam engine.
My dad cooked the crap out of his ED Fairmont towing caravan across Nullarbor, to the point of climate control displaying 90c. He didn't fix it, and still running over 15 years later.
One day it started raining, and it didn’t quit for four months. We been through every kind of rain there is. Little bitty stingin’ rain, and big ol’ fat rain, rain that flew in sideways, and sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath. It even rained at night.
Great content!! Thanks!!
Ray, which borescope are you using in this video? I’ve been looking to pick one up and am exploring different options, would like one that I can use with my phone for easy recording and picture taking. Always look forward to your videos I’m usually at work when they get published but I make the time to listen/watch them while I work! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and humor with us!
Once coolant circulates through the engine bearings, they are toast. The ethylene glycol destroys the thin coating on shell type bearings.
I drove a VW 2.0 for a few years with coolant in my oil and vice versa. I junked it for many reasons other than that.
Great vids ray, always fun to see your process of deduction. Looking through the parts catalog to see if the cooling system was hooked up to anything else is something I probably wouldn't have thought of. 👍
Your troubleshooting expertise is astonishing.
At 9:44 it looks like the bolts for the transmission crossmember to the frame rails are missing. If those bolts fell out that could have allowed the transmission to move out of alignment under torque from acceleration, which could cause the driveshaft to bind and the u joint cap to break, and then as you said that event could have grenaded the transmission. I could be mistaken but aren't there supposed to be two bolts on each side bolting that crossmember to the frame rails that should be visible coming through those two holes on the rail?
Oh your right!!! The bolts are missing. Shops fault if they left them out.
It would appear you are correct besides maybe one bolt at 9:48.
Good eye
There should be one bolt on either side. The right side bolt is missing. The other holes is for crossmember adjustment for different transmissions. The same frame has been used since about 1981 or 1982
Yes you are right. That also explains the exhaust being broke when the crossmember came up and slammed against it. I would like to see if the shop admits this or tells costumer it's not anything they did. Ouch it's going to be a big hit over 1 bolt being left out.
Personally I think well yeah the boats were missing but personally I think somebody was out on the weekend cruising around had half a bag on ran off the road and ran over something pretty big knock the starter motor and the drive shaft out stumbled home got a friend the next morning they went and drag it home with the chain and I could be wrong but just an assumption of my part have a good day
I think it's worth dropping a used engine in it. Replace the radiator and flush the evaporator core. Should run around $3k and the Jeep is worth about $8k, at least it is out here in the SW.
If you can afford $3k in repairs, are you really going to be driving a $8k vehicle?
You are probably better off doing minimal repairs and trading it off.
Thanks!
I love our 91 F350 so much, if it had the same damage, I'd repair it. No questions asked, it would get repaired. It's a Dualie, with a full crew cab and the 8' bed. It would take us a while, but we'd get it running again.
I assume the failure chain started with the water pump leak which lead to low coolant which lead to overheating which destroyed the engine. Another vehicle sent to an early grave because auto-manufacturers deliberately avoid providing low-coolant and over-heat engine protection systems.
It's called planned off selection said it's finest most people if they blow an engine or just go out and buy a new car think about it have a good day
@@michaelpressman7203 It appears your comment suffered a technofart.
More than likely on that missing drive shaft is that the "uni" joint failed on the front end and it dropped and was shoved violently against the rear "uni" breaking the support.
IF the car was moving, the drive shaft could have even "pole vaulted" the rear of the car up in the air. I've always thought that a safety bracket or cable should be mounted just below where the front end of the drive shaft attaches for just those occasions. That way the shaft will be caught and not dropped on the ground.
Doesn't explain how it could have hit the starter which is well in front of the driveshaft. I think it's more likely the owner ran over over something on the road, or managed to get it in a ditch and landed the underside on some rocks.
@@ferrumignis True but since we were not there when it happened, things...........strange things happen. It's obvious that it was a very violent event.
I could see some jack-ass wonder, what putting the F150 in Reverse would do, while going down the highway.
Indeed I think the driveshaft should always have something to prevent the front to drop …
@@Echristoffe Did you see the mythbusters episode where they investigated whether a broken driveshaft coukd flip a car? Even if the front end dug into a pot hole they could only make the rear jump a bit.
Nice diagnostic work
Between Two Pulleys with Rainman Ray? What a. Fantastic name for a podcast, maybe proper merch site? Get at me lol
That goop is NASTY. The borescope view is great. I was wondering if that was fermented goop in the cylinder.
Ray do you do endoscopies you might be a good sideline but it's a s***** deal have a good day
Depending on the condition of the rest of the vehicle, maybe a junkyard engine or 'rebuilt' could be an alternative to junking. Although not a stellar product (model) from the get-go.
A toyota engine in a jeep patriot would be sweet. Kind of like a poor man's fj
LOL typical male reaction, and there's another 6 thousand of us gear head viewers thinking the same thing.
I bet some guys already have this jeep envisioned as a rock crawler with a new gen Hemi swap.
Reality sets in....
It's a 2011 tin can that was rode hard and put away wet. Its kinda like trying to feed oats to a dead horse. The jeep's only worth is to someone with enough interest, extra time, money and resources they got to throw at it. I'm assuming, given the jeeps age and present condition, the person who owns it, is most likely low income, doesn't have a fist full of dollars and its their primary mode of transportation for getting to and from work. I agree to an extent but in this instance, I think it would be wise for the jeep owner to cut the loss and just buy something else that is dependable.
an engine replacement is the only way to go here. That coolant has a ton of rust from the block.
@@IR-nq4qv I don't know that it is fair to say they are low income. It is a perfectly acceptable grocery getter. Not everybody needs a top of the line vehicle to drive the kids to soccer practice. At the end of the day, this is still someone's transportation and it was probably doing just fine till the head gasket blew, or whatever went wrong with it. However, I don't think doing an engine swap on an $8k car is a good idea. If you have the four grand it is going to cost to replace the engine, then you are probably better off sinking that into getting another vehicle. Unless the car is paid off and you can't afford a payment of any type (in which case, why would you have four thousand bucks sitting around to repair it?) then repairing it just doesn't seem like a good idea. Better to sell it to someone for three or four grand and let them do the swap if they feel like it. It's not about being low income or high income. It's about sinking half the value of the car into the repair of that car. IT's still only worth $8k even with a new engine in it, so it makes it a tough decision.
@@ocdetails I’ll bet this jeep was on the deferred maintenance program, where you don’t open the hood EVER, no oil changes. Then a few years later when the needle is pegged on “H” for a few days, the driver says “hmm, what’s up with that?” They accept zero responsibility, learned nothing, and will definitely do the same in the next car.
"Non-Jeep" is correct, sir. For the last several years if you ask what I drive, it's a Wrangler. I know a guy that insists that his Renegade is a "real Jeep, made by Jeep".
I literally said verbatim with exactly the same tone as you Ray: "Oh nooooo... Oh nooooo." I just said it before you did. I have had this pain before.
It's possible there is a leak of engine oil somewhere in the highest pressure part, enough that the engine oil is overpowering the pressure of the coolant and is just squrting into the coolant, which is bad.
Yeah that’s usually a head gasket.
There is a definite crack and the combustion pressure in the cylinder is pushing oil back into the coolant which is a lower pressure side have a good day
That looked like a leaf and sand in that first cylinder, you can see all that debris around the spark plugs threads going in.. Just make sure to blow out every sparkplug hole before removing plug. The Ford looks almost like they were testing that new clutch doing some high rev clutch drops.. I'd be looking for new wear on rear tires . however that's inconclusive because it may have blown the first pull. But I bet they were excited about a new clutch and just hauling butt and lost it at a stop light taking off.
And pick up the rear end will start spinning before the drive shaft to let go unless they had a heavy load in it it's a possibility you never know what people all around bars the tires they're probably in bad shape before they even did a burnout if they did a burnout who knows that thing was a mess hey have a good day
Wow that smoothed out pretty good...
Well done!👍
Refreshing to see a Jeep with a trans outlasting the engine
did the truck hit something while reversing, and then tried to use the driveshaft as a pole-vault??
Looks a lot like what happened to our car when a truck tire got sucked under on the highway. That car was toast.
the kids ' borrowed it ' and a mate of their's asked to do drifts with it .... took it over a curb or something
Transmission cross member wasn't bolted on. At 9:55 there should be 2 bolts sticking down that hold the crosdmember on. Under engine torque the Transmission moved enough to bind up the driveshaft breaking the housing on one end and the u-joint on the other end. 100% the shops fault.
Hey Ray, I had the opposite fluid contamination happen to me on my Kawasaki Concours. The coolant got into the oil, and tuned the oil that coffee with creamer color you were seeing on the Jeep. Even the shop I had it at wasn't sure about it- But they had also just set the bike on fire, so I wasn't going to let them have the bike any longer. (long story, and unrelated..) Since the engine didn't seem to be burning coolant or oil, and no external leaks- my focus shifted towards the water pump. There were minor tales on the internet of the concours pump seals going bad and allowing coolant to get into the oil system through a weep hole. Not willing to give up on the bike, I pulled the trigger and got a new water pump and installed it myself. Got lucky, as that seemed to be the cause of the contamination. It was strange because it was a one-way contamination of fluids, but the bike is still running 10K after the repair, and in about 3K or so more miles it will turn 100,000, and then I can sell it with zero miles on the odometer!
Thanks as always for the chronicles!
I’m just looking forward to you working on my car this coming week. Keep up the videos. Cant live without them. Lol
Get the fork, it's done. Up here in the rust belt, that would be a good candidate for an engine swap for either a good used one, if any exist, or a rebuild. @Rainman Ray's Repairs
It's not easy but if you can find the motor and a wreck and a boneyard that's a good idea pull a swap have a good day
And once again I am stupefied by the fact that somebody has the huevos to bring a vehicle in for repair with the fuel gauge on empty.
Lmao then you'll luuurve this story... One day i was working on a clients car, now in South Africa it is illegal for garages to charge to fill the tank for repairs, the client has to provide the cash then we " fetch the fuel" and continue working on the car. I go to the client and say to her, we need to collect money for fuel as the tank is empty and we cannot test it if it's empty.
Her reply, you're driving it, you put in fuel. My reply... We are contracted by you to work on your car, we are not hiring the car nor borrowing it. If you dont supply the fuel, the car can stay in pieces and you can get someone else to finish the job.
To be fair, the vehicle was overheating. I'd probably hesitate to make a stop at a gas station. Plus if they give you bad news, the last thing you want to think about is that you just put gas in a vehicle you will probably never drive again.
But still, this is why some guy invented the gas can. Put a gallon or two of gas in it so that you don't make the mechanic spend time getting gas for you.
The content is great, big thanks
Good job Bob!
God Save The King
That’s a real Florida man truck (F150) hahaha deng how can someone drive that thing
The F-150 reminds me of a story an automotive instructor once told me. Some students were reinstalling a manual transmission and they didn't engage the input shaft with the clutch friction disc. They used the bellhousing bolts to force the transmission into place and busted the bellhousing of the transmission, which also destroyed the clutch disc. As he mentioned, a good practice is to verify that the transmission mates against the engine with a healthy "clunk" by hand before bolting it to the engine. It's also good to rotate the output shaft and shift the transmission in and out of gear to make sure the splines are engaged before bolting it up.
yep shop did something wrong and caused this as ray said it only lasted 5 mins after shop just had it apart
I have a jeep liberty that has the sludge in the coolant like that. It has been running for about a year with no real problems. I did flush it really good.
Two possibilities have occurred, overheated from waterpump leak and they added two different types of coolant that don't mix causing it to make what looks like jellyfish. In this case I believe that you are correct head problem oil getting back into antifreeze since no white smoke out exhaust like coolant into combustion chamber. I have never really liked jeeps to prone for engine problems
I think you are on to something with the 2 coolants. Jeeps take orange coolant. It looked like I saw green. I’m still watching so I could be wrong. But 8 know they take orange coolant
@@RacingRacing-lf3fw He's not. The whole "don't mix coolants" thing is largely an old wives tail. You should try to match what you already have but it's most likely not going to gunk up if you get it wrong either.
@@madmatt2024 As long as you are using the same chemicals, the color shouldn't matter.
@@MonkeyJedi99 The actual base of almost all coolants is the same, what's different is the additive package that prevents corrosion. You start mixing them and the effectiveness of the additive package becomes a mystery, that's it. As you said, color is also no indication of what additive package a coolant uses.
@@madmatt2024 Ah. I started learning car maintenance back when the change was being made between ethelyne glycol and propelyne glycol-based coolants.
3.7Ls do not like a lack of maintenance. Oil changes every 3-5k. Coolant every 30k and fix every leak every time…
3.7 is 3/4 of the (in)famous 4.7L sludge generator. Replace the oil with Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella and the sludge problem goes away.
Jeep is toast mate fubar comes to mind great video as always take care and all the best
My dad use to have a sign in his shop that read "We will kindly tell you when your car is no longer worth your money or our aggravation."
F150 bottomed out at some point, watched to many Duke's of Hazard episodes. Hey, Bubba hold my beer....
That looks like a buggered head gasket/cylinder head to me. Where the leak is determines what happens - coolant into the engine oil, coolant into the exhaust, exhaust into the coolant, engine oil into the coolant - or any combination of the above.
With that F150, I bet the rear driveshaft joint siezed up, broke, and the subsequent whirling of the shaft connected to nothing at one end cracked the the bellhousing and took the starter with it.
I had blown head gasket once, that was dumping oil into the #4 cylinder (on a 4 banger). When I reved the engine, I laid down a smoke screen just like a WW2 destroyer!
That's also a strong possibility but how that drive shift got up to the starter motor is beyond me cuz it had to make one hell of a racket I blown drive shafts but I mean I picked them up took them home well I actually threw it in the four-wheel drive and use the front wheels to get home you can do what you got to do if you use a little ingenuity hey have a good day
If the drive shift broke at the rear end it couldn't whip around enough to hit the starter motor if it did it would have beat up everything underneath that car and if the front broke loose it might hit the star tomorrow motor then those planted in the ground pole vaulted the rear end and broke it off I've seen it happen man the rear end of all about six feet in the air it's a fun ride not really hey have a good day
Thank you Ray, I did enjoy this video. More good diagnostics from the Rainman. Speaking of, I'm sure that Ford truck got a good bath inside.
"that's less than ideal"! 😂😂😂 Truer words have never been spoken!
My milkshake brings all the... heads... to the machinist?
Yup - nice one
My milk shake brings all the heads to the garage and there like it's leak'n like yours...
that f150 is one of the reasons why we have yearly inspection in pennsylvania. ive been down south and seen some real unsafe cars on the road.
Used to live in western PA myself. Good point on inspection. Used to see a lot of vehicles from Ohio where they don’t have inspection. Unreal. Also, lived in CA many years. No safety inspection just checked to see if your vehicle has bad breath. Lots of accidents there because of bed tires and brakes.
The lax inspections are easy but you’re right it leads to poor quality vehicles
I had a 96 Chevy Blazer that had the dex cool anti freeze and it did the same thing. It was mt mudmore erupting from the radiator.
as a "young" technician aspiring to be a driveability tech one day, this is probably my favorite video.