How to swap a TV tube into an arcade [K7000]
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Arcade monitor CRT Tube Swap [Wells Gardner K-7000].
▼▼▼▼ EXPAND FOR IMPORTANT LINKS & INFO ▼▼▼▼
In this episode we take a burn free standard 19" television tube and swap it into a standard res 19" K7000 monitor. Watch how we test to make sure we have a drop in replacement with minimal headaches. And the results are amazing!
Tube Swap TV info:
Brand: LXI
Tube: Funai A48JLL90X (CR-31)
Horizontal (R/B): 3.5 Ohms
Vertical (YH/G): 14.3 Ohms
Check your tube #’s here to see what pin-out the neck is:
tubular.atomize...
Monitor tube yoke ohm list:
- G07 - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 52.8 OHMS CR-23
- K4900 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 37.2 OHMS CR-23
- K4600 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 8.4 OHMS CR-23
- 20EZ - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 28.1 OHMS CR-23
- K7000 - H: 3.4 OHMS V: 15.0 OHMS (max) CR-31
As always, let me know what you think in the comments. Anything you would like to see in the future? Let me know.
Affiliate product links (I get a small kickback to fund the channel, but it costs you NOTHING. Help a guy out!)
Products used in this series:
- Hakko 888D soldering station: amzn.to/2rXYxyE
- Hakko FR-300 de-soldering gun: amzn.to/2SviOqP
- Degaussing Coil: amzn.to/2GeUdnU
- Wire stripper: amzn.to/2Q9GJdC
- Ratchet crimping tool: amzn.to/2VkcuEs
- Power Screwdriver: amzn.to/2UMKN6q
- Great Multimeter ($13.50 !!!): amzn.to/2t6RoN0
- Simple Green: amzn.to/2DcvWft+
- Novus Plastic scratch remover/polisher: amzn.to/2FA7Vk4
- Silicon Paste for lubrication: amzn.to/2Fz3Exk
- Headband LED magnifier: amzn.to/2Vjsl6l
- Case Tumbler: amzn.to/2W3b4ie
- Ground walnut shells for tumbler: amzn.to/2SRWIPr
Thanks for making this channel successful! I love this hobby and I enjoy sharing it with fellow enthusiasts.
Check out Arcade Jason's tube swap video for more technical detail: • Arcade TUBE SWAP simpl...
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Music:
"Race Between the Spires" - Teknoaxe
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UPDATE: Blurring problem has been fixed. It was the chroma transistors on the neck board. Once swapped out they corrected the issue. Video to come.
Was about to say blurring is related to chokes or caps.. didn’t realize these arcade monitors were standard picture tubes.
@@Astinsan I fix it in the next video. I was chasing ghosts by swapping out the flyback, but in the end I didn't really need to.
That’s how it always goes lol
After watching this video, I looked in my garage and found an old television with the exact same model number on the tube as yours. Ironically the k7000 tube in my Arkanoid had the exact same tube as the one you replaced. I swapped tubes and now have the best looking Arkanoid ever! Thanks for your time and effort in supporting this hobby.
That's great to hear! Glad I could help!
Oh we don't see this again LOL Shamom.😊
tubular is such a great resource
cr23 tubes are are an older tech therefore more likely to be in older sets cr31 are newer . i have been swapping tv tubes for around 20 years . at one time it seemed most tvs in the trash were cr23 but now it seems most trashed tvs are cr23 do to the age on the trashed tv .
Nice to hear the Rolling Thunder attract mode on there ! Nice video also ! Thanks ^_^
Ohhh, and Buffet makes cables for the TPG as well. Never had an issue with mine.
Thanks for the tip! I may pick one up next time I hang out with him.
The 49 in the model number is its size. 49cm or about 19 inches👍
I’m hoping ‘someday’ I’ll attempt this myself, great vid! 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! I'm going to do another in the near future but this time it won't be a drop in replacement. I will need to swap the yoke. Makes me nervous just thinking about it. :-P
Excellent video and great job on the tube swap. I’d like to swap the tube in my Ms Pac. I look forward to your video on the chroma transistors.
Thanks. I'm hoping to tackle either a G07 or a K4600 in the future. Those have CR-23 necks IIRC.
I dont know about most, but I find the TV tube or CRT to be superior to a LCD. its about the frequency emitted by the tube IMHO.
I agree 100%. Even with all the hype of the new Retrotink 4K for LCD panels, it still can't produce the OG CRT glow and flicker of the original...
Plus, you can service CRTs forever...
nice to see m8 , I plan on doing this with my silent scope , someone before I had it put a crusin usa monitor with burn in into it , so I will be doing the same enjoyes it m8 nice video :)
That's good news for you! The 25" tube swaps are more compatible with 25" TV's and easier to find.
You have a soldering iron right there....why are you using butt connectors when you could solder the wires and heat shrink them?
Much more permanent (and better) connection.
I've NEVER had an issue with the butt connectors. I'm using a ratchet crimper for good measure. Nice solid connection.
Degaussing is funnn 😁😁🌈
I agree!
Can you show us in detail how those magnetic strips work and how are made? Can you make a video on how to make those yourselft? where I live I cannot find them anywhere and I have several tubes that need them to fix the convergence on the corners. I cannot find any video on how they are made, sizes, amount of magnetism, how strong are they, material...etc Sorry if my english is a not good.
these strips 1:12:14
So I just spoke with Arcade Jason (a fellow CZcamsr who really knows his monitor stuff, you should subscribe) and he corrected me and said they are not actually magnets. They are non-magnetized pieces of steel. To make your own you can simply cut thin plastic into strips (a milk container would work well) and a small square piece of sheet metal taped to the end of it. Use packing tape to affix it onto the plastic strip.
His tube swap video is in the description above. He talks about how to use them.
Hope this helps!
@@delsarcade Yes I'm subscribed to him! So no magnet? I was going to use refrigerator magnets, the hard thing to find would be the metal sheet, do you think something else could work? like a washer or something like that. I will watch his video.
Yes, I suppose a small washer cut in half would work too. Great idea!
There is a note at the bottom of the following link that explains how to make convergence strips. Go to:
www.arcaderepairtips.com/2014/02/28/monitor-convergence-tips/
This is what the note says:
NOTE: To make homemade convergence strips, you can simply go to your local hardware store. Buy a cheap razor blade, preferably one that has a long blade that you press up, notch by notch. Also buy some thin but solid cardboard to use for the strip itself. I bought a cheap yard sign for this. This should cost less than $10. All you have to do is carefully break off a piece of the razor blade about the size of a dime. Cut a small strip of cardboard and attach the piece of razor blade to the cardboard strip using electrical (or magnetic) tape. That’s all. You can experiment with the size of the piece of razor blade you use on each strip. Sometimes I found I needed more or less depending on where I was placing the strips.
i had the same focus issue on 2 new flybacks from Ian Kellogg for my outrun and afterburner
I figured it out. Turns out it was the Chroma transistors on the neck board. I swapped them out and it fixed the problem. ;-)
Old tube still seems usable.
It does work, but the burn in was pretty bad. Since I had a fresh tube I'd rather have the burn free one.
Just out of interest, what is the proper yoke readings of a k7000 yoke I have one of these chassis that came with my SNK pow machine thin neck tube but the picture is ridiculously wide, im thinking now either the tube has been swapped or the yokes been swapped out at some point, I put the correct width cap in as it had a 68uf poly cap in 68 would make it narrow and its out of range for what you can safely use in the horizontal section according to Bob Roberts site, someones been messing thats for sure, my readings are 1.3ohms for horizontal and 15.1 for vertical, I've just finished rebuilding the horizontal secrion as the resistors were brown in the middle so defo been working hard, ive put a 33uf poly width cap in and now the horizontal is running cool and taken a yoke from a TV and the picture is just about bang on now but ideally would prefer to use the correct yoke and the one the chassis came with its definitely not not right for a start the green and yellow wires are back to front where they connect to the board, I dont know what chassis it came from because the picture is so wide its ridiculous, lets put it this way if I run sf2 I cant see the players either side on the character select screen.
I typically list the proper ohm readings in the description. But for a K7000 it should be - H: 3.4 OHMS V: 15.0 OHMS (max) CR-31 tube type.
Great channel 👍. I have a 27” Philips tv. I’m curious if anyone knows if I can use this in an aracde cabinet?. I have a mk2 that needs a monitor
Great job. Did you ever change the fly back and did it fix the focus issue?
It turned out it was due to bad chroma transistors on the neck board. Once I swapped them out it fixed the issue.
I never swapped the flyback since it's behaving just fine and the monitor is crystal clear. I do have spare flybacks on hand when needed, but this one was fine.
What are the picture quality differences between the arcade tubes and tv tubes?
Typically arcade tubes are clearer in my opinion. They are true RGB where TVs are composite (RGB mixed into 1 cable) which reduces quality.
Edit: We are talking about the chassis (interface to the tube). The tubes themselves are identical in quality.
@@delsarcade Oh wow, it would be great to see a side by side comparison comparing low hours of use and high hours arcade vs high quality tv tube.
@@RoboticusMusic I edited my comment above to be clearer.
As far as comparing them. I've already shown an old burned in tube from an arcade vs. a burn free tube from a TV. ;-)
Can you use the chassis of the tv instead of the k7000?
You can't. Well not easily... Arcade monitors run at RGB signals where older CRT consumer TVs do not, so they are not compatible. That is without hacking the chassis.
My buddy Arcade Jason explains it in his video here: czcams.com/video/MmiBhLUkKEM/video.html
@@delsarcade awesome thanks for the info! I knew there was a reason. It all makes sense now :-)
How much ohm variance is allowed between tubes? I need a tube for my k7000 and I found that same Daewoo tube (A48JLL40X). However I'm getting 4.3 red/blue and 15.1 yellow/green. The original tube reads 2.6 ohm red/blue and 13.2 ohms yellow/green.
That will work just fine. The max I would go is 4(ish) and 15(ish). It's Ok to be over or under by 1 or 2 Ohms.
My K-7000 was 3.4 Ohms x 15 Ohms (max is 15. So 15.1 is acceptable).
Awesome! Thanks dude. I'm gonna do it. I also just watched arcade Jason's yoke swap video. He had an excellent way of explaining the procedure. I'm still gonna postpone on the yoke swap procedure. Maybe some rainy day I'll do a yoke swap. Lol.
@@curtislv426 Check out my Monitor repair playlist. I have two other videos where I test yokes! ;-)
Also, my descriptions have detailed info on yoke readings.
Right on man. Thanks! A couple people on the klov forum said that I might have trouble adjusting the image with the variance in the ohm readings. I'm gonna try it anyway. I learn better if I see the problem. Lol. I posted in the monitor repair forum under the same screen name as my CZcams tag.
Hey, which motherboard should I get for my tube? I have A51ACG34X CR23 neck (orange yellow 12,2 and Blue, red 2,7) i have to use it as an arcade monitor and display RGB.
K4600 chassis should work.
@@delsarcade Alright, thanks :) and what's the best place to find that chassis? btw Keep going with your amazing videos, I learn much more your videos than in other places.
@@hugoduarte4793 Honestly your best bet is to find the whole monitor first (any arcade monitor) then match a tube that will work. Doing it in reverse it twice as hard.
I'm in for a T-Shirt LMK
#Soon