K40 Laser Power Supply Pinout / Safety Mod
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- čas přidán 1. 10. 2019
- A look into the Power Supply of a K40 Laser Cutter. What cable belongs where and what are they hooked up to.
I sketched the in- and outputs and show you a little mod how to make your K40 safer by adding a safety switch into the lid of the machine.
Please note that at 3:38 a mains switch should always be wired to the hot wire! My laser is wired the wrong way, what is potentially dangerous!
Overview:
Pinout diagram:01:11
Installing a Safety switch: 10:51
K40 generic Power Supply: amzn.to/3HAXuvq
Cloudray K40 Power Supply: amzn.to/3u8QRgD
Check out the video from Geeksmithing: • Making the K40 Safer!
There is always more!
More videos about the K40 Laser and other interesting Projects on my Channel!
/ kennnix
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I was just so excited when I realized that there was a flux capacitor lying next to the laser. Great Scott!
Thanks. My 40W PS came without any instructions at all. But looks like the one you have there.
Best video explanation I have seen on this type PS. This helped me get back into operation!! THANK YOU!!
Thanks for the information. Good job.
Very helpful, thanks
Good work I am in process of building a 60W Co2 Laser
Hello, I watched your video very well. I want to ask how to connect the cables to the terminals G, P, L, G, IN and 5V? I just installed PS Cloudray with the MYJG 40W type. Why when I press the laser test button, the laser beam keeps on?
The main power switch should be on the live side. If you disconect the neutral anything else connected will be at live potential so even if its powered of its still a potential danger if you were to touch anything thats not isolated by a transformer or something.
You are right, it is however connected the wrong way (at least on my machine) i will put in a note into the video. Thanks!
Finally great useful information! Thanks vm! Sub and liked!
I agree this one is just what I needed!
At 14:00 use a pin connector, they are amazon with the crimp tool
I've heard you say you have grounded your machine to the radiator. That was my first thought of doing with mine but is that enough for safe operation? I mean the radiators are connected trough metal to the wall and floor.
Do you have any suggestions, videos or pictures for me of your grounding of your machine?
I'm not operating my machine because of me not having grounded my machine.
Thanks
Do you not have and earth/ground connection through your mains power socket?
Isn't the pot being supplied by 5vdc? You did not show the voltage. Just askin'. Great video though. Also is it possible to install a digital amp meter in series with the analog meter?
So... I suppose a key switch would be done in serie with the main switch (220V in France) but i'm not sure about the required Amperage capacity of the said key switch.. Can you help me on this one ? I would think not much but... asking is safer than trying and burning the house.. If i try to think at this time of the night i'd guess "40w" would be around 0,2A ?
The safety switch gets connected in series to the laser switch, not the main switch. The laser switch only uses 5v.
However if you need to hook up some sort of safety switch to the main voltage i would use a relay. Let me know what exactly you want to do on Patreon ;)
My laser works in full power all the time no matter the settings I set. Even with zero power. What do you think is the problem? Controller or power supply? And how to I check it?
I have a 50w power supply from CLOUDRAY . It has G AC Ac. H L P G IN 5V. Then the last four that go to the cohesion 3d mini board . What would be the letters on your diagram ?
It would be +24v out / GND / +5v out / L control line
@@MancaveEffects those are the last 4, how about the ones in the middle?
Just subscribed. Just got a K40, still not working correctly. While I usually see “won’t fire” troubleshooting, my problem is it won’t stop firing. When I turn on the laser switch, it’s firing, without touching the test fire button. Keeps firing as it drives to the park position and continues until I turn off the switch. Any suggestions where to look?
If this error occurs only when usb is connected, i would check the usb board. The last input on the power supply (on the right) is the latch cable coming from the mainboard that gives the impulses when the laser should fire. Check if everything is soldered correctly. If i remember correct this is a 5v line where 5v means laser „Off
“ and 0v means laser „On“. Try carefully to measure it with a voltmeter using ground what is pin 3 from the right on your power supply (as shown in the video). Be careful with the high power lines! You need to find out if it is a software problem on you computer or a problem with the mainboard.
If you are using Corel Laser, be sure you have chosen the right board in the laser preferences.
I'm reworking a older Golden Laser to a new Ruida 6445G it has 2 80 watts tubes, I'm have a bad time trying to wire the laser up
Hello, i used the same power suply and also use the same electric wirering, i can use the potentionmeter and test button to create a pulse with controling the power output, but with autolaser/lightburn it doesnt` matter if i use 1% or 25% oe 100% the output of the laser is always 23ma, als when i switch the safety to off i still can create a pulse with the test button... so it seems i have 2 problems. DO you see a way to help?
I think this sounds like a motherboard issue. The original board that i have does not support software controlled output power, only pulse rate. The physical poti can control the output
@@MancaveEffects thank you for your quick response even after 4 year post, i know it can, but its better for corners to have a controler to handle that. thank anyway !!!
Thank you for this great video, i was looking for a diagram, this is much better.
I'am new with the K40. Yesterday i tried to fire the K40, the head moved but didn't fire.
Do you have any idea which way to go?
I am using the cohesion 3d laserboard. With Regards, Ben
Does your “laser test boutton” works? I dont know Cohesion laserboard.
@@MancaveEffects, when hit the control light of the (new) electronic control unit lights up but no fire. Thank you for your super fast response.
Sorry i dont know the electronic control panel, but i am pretty sure that for safety reasons something in the settings prevents the laser from firing.
lets hope it is as simply as that. thank you so far.
I just took a measurement for you. At the “laserswitch” i measure 4,3 volts when the switch is deactivated (“off” state) and 0 volts when it is activated (“on” state). This will tell you if it is a hardware or software problem. I hope this helps.... be careful when take the measurements the mains are right next to it...
Hello, What type of potiometer did you use ?
My machine came with a 1K-2w potentiometer
Mein laser ist keine 2 Wochen alt und der laser hat 3 mm MDF in einem Zug bei ca. 6mA geschnitten. Das ging über 10 Schnitte gut. Jetzt nach ca. 2 Wochen und 10 Schnitten. Kommt der laser bei vollem Anschlag (potentiometer) 35mA laut Anzeige, auch nach 5 Läufen nicht durch das gleiche Material was der laser bei 6mA geschnitten hat.
Sind die Spiegel und Linse sauber? Bei mir hatten sich Kabel zum Potentiometer gelockert so das ich die Leistung nichtmehr regeln konnte.
Die Röhre oder das Netzteil könnten auch hinübersein.
Useful video but the water interlock would have been my choice, lifting the lid is not disastrous to your eyes as we professionals always wear our safety goggles but running out of water is disastrous to our wallets!! In general I would prefer to see a key operated switch on the front panel rather than the red rocker switch, the price isn't much different and thats a better feature and more safe than an interlock.