Ultimate Bike Upgrade First Ride | GCN's Bike Makeover Ep. 3
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 12. 08. 2022
- We've come a long way but Ollie is finally able to take our upgraded entry-level bike out for a spin. Have we been able to turn it into a superbike? Let us know đ
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Just one point to stress: under normal riding, components like mechs, levers, crank arms, and brake calipers do not "wear out". Certainly not to an extent that you would ever need to replace them. Drivetrain parts like chains, cassettes, chainrings, bottom brackets do wear out. The only reason to ever change a non-wear component is because you broke it in a crash or other impact or because you want to save weight with a higher level part. If you buy a bike with 105, you can expect the non-wear components to last for a very, very long time--actually this applies to any groupset at any level. Take care of your bike and it will serve you for a lifetime.
I'm riding a 2006 Trek 1500 with 9 speed ultegra shifters and rear derailleur with the rest being 105. Still shifts smoother than the newest claris and sora groupsets.
The rubber around levers warp and start slipping by being pealed back too often, and brake calipers wear out at the spring by your going off road too much and not cleaning them.
@@paulpenfold2352 My rubber hood covers are crumbling, tearing. For now I trimmed it neatly, took and old inner tube and taped it to the brakes. I'm too cheap to spend the $12 for new hood covers.
Oh roadies. MTB goes through rear mechs faster than cassettes. :( not cheap.
yeah this isn't 1985... a lot of hollow or carbon cranks come with an expiration date. Shimano has cranks ungluing for the last 10 years in humid climates, Sram's crank axles come in different sizes (If you're lucky you'll get a proper axle) which wears the bearings and the axle itself. If the parts were well made we would be talking about non wearing parts. But they are faulty, and are at the limit of physics which make them more prone to failure. Fatigue life is a thing, if you bend a steel rod long enough for 1000 years you'll eventually break it.
Take it to the extreme! A Pinarello Dogma F frame with Claris components versus some extremely entry-level frame with full Dura Ace components.
Could you just change components with th Eurobike?
The pinarello will probably be better, claris is usable.
What a clean, clear delivery of thorough information regarding the upgrade vs replace decision. I really appreciate how talented Oli is as a presenter. Cheers for a job well done!
Thanks, Kenneth! We're glad you enjoyed the video :)
Just watched this one and I agree with @krehme! Stellar delivery/presentation from this guy!
That Turbo-Man reference was so on point đ€Łđ€Łđ€Ł
That was the point I paused to like the video.
ITSH TUERBO TIMEAA!
Arnold Schwarzenegger would be proud of that reference!
This series has really resonated with me. When I started cycling I bought a Schwinn prelude from target. It cost $200 back in like 2008. When I got back into cycling this past summer, I did extensive upgrades. I feel like I should have just bought a new bike at this point.
But I saved 2.1 kilos. I put 50mm deep superteam carbon wheels, TPU tubes, and continental 5000 tires. There are mixed opinions on the budget Chinese carbon wheels, but I have really enjoyed the superteam ones after 1000 miles. And they do make the bike look like it hammers.
I also got STI shifters, to replace the thumb shiftersđ put shimano 105 derailleurs, and a KMC lightweight chain.
Switched to a compact crankset, and did an 11 speed ultegra cassette. I also put a carbon seatpost, and a 40mm carbon aerobar set. The result is the most thoroughly invested in Schwinn prelude in the world Iâd guess. But the bike looks killer, got me really excited about riding again, got 2.1 kilos lighter, and definitely feels faster, and gives more flexibility on climbs.
Having said that, I am probably going to buy a frame set worthy of the components Iâve invested in, and buy the rest of a 105 groupset.
Very interesting video!
I wanna see the before and afters! where can i see this?!?
Iâd love to see that Sora-level groupset put onto a schmancy aero-tubed frameset and compare the two builds with two people! I run R3000 Sora-level on a steel frameset bike and R81000 Ultegra on a carbon one. I tend to ride the Sora/steel bike alot more, partially because i like the feeling of riding something thatâs bomb proof, partially because i spent alot more time building that one up. Lets see the comparison!
I did something similar to my blue Giant Defy. I upgraded the entire group set from Tiagra 4600 to R7020 105 with Ultegra Crankset. It is so much more rewarding upgrading your own bike than buying a new one already speced out.
I'm thinking of doing the same with my Giant Cadent. Nicest bike I've ever owned but I keep eyeing that electronic shifting on the new 105
And much more expensive too...feelings...lol
Yes. Bicycle is not an object. It is a process of constant upgrading :):)
Loved this series as it's answered questions I have as I plan on a similar upgrade (with 105 DI2) on my Grail AL. One small quibble. I wish episode 1 was a test ride video of the stock bike with your comments. Then episode 4 would have come full circle. But great content as ever.
I purchased a 2005 Specialized Roubaix Elite, $400 from a pawnshop in 2016, that came with an Ultegra/105 9 speed mix and FSA cranks and Alex wheels. Never weighed but I know it was over 21 lbs. I upgraded with a Chorus 11 speed and HED wheelset and shaved almost 3 lbs and gained 2 mph average in my rides.
So, buying a used, older model bike and using savings for upgrades makes more sense to a rider like myself.
Always love Ollies enthusiasm, just makes you want to put your device down and get out and smash đ„ out a ride.
Love that you are mentioning the common sense approach to upgrading components for the more casual cyclists. Spot on. Love this series đ
11:05 Back before Shimano started geo-blocking retailers (2019?), it was definitely cheaper to build part by part, sourcing components from multiple vendors around the world. I built my bike from a mix of DA and Ultegra parts from the UK, Germany, USA, Australia and it was considerably cheaper than the best deal I could find on a groupset bundle or an equivalent pre-assembled bike. Infact, I ended up with a DA/Ultegra Di2/Hydraulic setup for around the same cost as a fully mechanical 105 bundle at that time.
Upgrade to the level of your smile!!!! Ride to the level of your smile. Ollie your passion for the bike is sensational, continue to spread the joy. Thank you for what you do.
In my upgrade experience upgrading from a cable Sora to hydraulic Tiagra groupset and from Shimano factory-fitted wheels to Campagnolo wheels with better tyres instantly made a _huge_ difference. Whee! Castlecombe looks lovely, must drop in sometime.
Great videography in this too - makes u look amazing Ollie!
I really enjoyed this series! You have given me some great ideas and I expect that I will be upgrading my bike using your recommendations!
Dura-Ace doesn't make sense in any context, if it were 20% more than Ultegra then maybe, but at double the price it is farcical. Nobody should spend their money on anything higher than Ultegra... pros use it because it's free.
This series came out at a perfect time. Iâve been riding a 1988 bianchi sport sx (ishiwata tubing) with shimano sport lx group set (7 speed) and exage brakes. This bike has been so good to me and by working on it little by little, Iâm finally comfortable enough taking her apart and deep cleaning her components. Iâve ordered the shimano 7700 groupset which was the last year (I think) that shimano used downtube shifting, which I absolutely love in comparison to sti. Itâs going to be a mix between campagnolo and shimano. An homage to its Italian/Japanese heritage. Such a cool bike even if it was near the bottom tier of the bianchi lineup in that era. Good luck to everyone whoâs upgrading and fiddling around with their bike. Take that baby on a date! She deserves it.
Remember Si's GCN plus video with the Decathlon bike, the seat post was a huge comfort upgrade for a stiff and heavy cheap frame.
Carbon is a way to go, couldn't imagine riding On aluminium seatpost again, night and Day difference
Quite a few years ago I decided to upgrade my mechanical groupset from SRAM Rival to Red. I had dreamt about doing this for a few years and had finally saved up enough money to do it. A few months later SRAM released eTap so my upgrade was on the wrong side of a game changer. I am still riding my SRAM Red mechanical groupset and electronic shifting still seems a distant dream.
Great mini series Ollie. I love everything GCN.
fear not. i upgraded from ultegra 6800 mechanical to red etap on my bike, and i'll just say that a very well kept upper tier mechanical isn't worlds different from electronic.
Yes ! Do a Expensive Aero frame set with cheap components
I like Olli's references to old movies. He's such a nerd:D
Good to see Ollie as himself and not the "getting dropped" Ollie. Well done sir !
Thank you for responding to the comments. Looking forward to 105di2 once you get it.
Great series Dr Ollie. Would love to see how this upgraded bike performs over a long, long distance or multiple day long rides.
Honestly I think it comes down to if u have the money yes upgrade, if not stick to what u have and upgrade little by little, I recently got a Specialized Roubaix full 105, all I did was upgrade the wheelset DURA ACE C35 and it made such a difference. Everything else works amazing. đȘ đđČđČđČđČ Much love from California Ollie.. Ride safe.
Tires are the main thing I think. I'd like to see a test where you put 25 mm road tires on a dual suspension MTB and compare to the lightest gravel bike with the fattest tires a gravel bike can fit.
I bought the cheapest Canyon Ultimate 2 years ago, with a 105 and rim brakes for just under 1600 Euro - replaced the rims 1 year after, replaced the seat post and the saddle too, got it down to almost 7kg - changing the cockpit next to save another 300g. Might consider changing to an electric shifting Ultegra too, wont save any weight/watts but I like precisely changing gears. Overall it might still be less than 4000 Euro investment and the performance will be close to what the pros ride.
Going for Ultegra on the STIs, the front- or rear derailleur is a thing to do. Yeah, wheels, too. But using a Dura Ace cassette is just a waste of money, since it wears out much quicker and costs like 3-4 times the 105 price.
A high end bike vs superbike would be an excellent one (e.g. Aeroad CF vs CFR). More helpful too, it's not often one wonder if one should buy 105 or Dura-Ace, it's typically 105 vs Ultegra or Ultegra vs Dura-Ace (if one are made of money)
I have a niineties Le Mond aluminium frame , with 11 speed Ultegra , and its my favourite bike , got he groupset seconhand , everything including teh Ultegra wheels , for 300 quid just had to find a chainset that cost me 50 pounds from ebay . Its light , agile and stiff and good to look at !
I have a similar frame, AL Endurace. It doesnât have disc brakes thou. Iâve upgraded wheels from 2kg Mavic cheap junk to nice 1400g semi deep carbon wheels with 30mm tires, 38cm bars and swapped 105 rear mech to ultegra clutch one and it feels like a different bike. Love it and wouldnât think of change for a moment if not for the disc brakes⊠If onlyâŠđ€·đ»ââđ€Ł
love these part upgrade session â€â€â€â€â€
Thanks gcn
Good job Ollie, I have no questions!
I upgraded my Cube Attain from an 8 speed Claris to 11 speed Ultegra and definitely was worth the upgrade. Now I also got an Aero bike Cube Litening TE replica with the 12 speed Ultegra and this groupset is even better than the previous model. Still I'm super happy with both my bikes.
I have a colnago C60 but Iâve only got Campagnolo Chorus rim brake group set but it still gives me the chance to upgrade when ever I want too, and Iâm very happy with what Iâve done with it.
I'm winding down my racing these days, and looking forward to switching to an endurance bike like the one in this vid - easy geometry, big head tube, disc brakes, a biga$$ 30mm+ comfy tubeless tires. Going to go back to riding for enjoyment rather than going out to bash out a ton of miserable intervals. 105 seems perfect to support the fun.
I love how I always get the kick of getting back into cycling for fun when it gets really cold outside.
It's this weird feeling that when October gets cold I want to ride my "gravel" bike in the woods
I guess I really hate Summer
Great video. Sure, most people canât afford top of the range gear, but you can only show how good something from the lower range is, when you compare it to the top of the range. This was really excellent for comparing cost, weight, aero, etc. and itâd be great to see more of this.
PS. Always great to see Ollie doing the videos. As a presenter, heâs tied in the top spot because he can easily pull off looking really goofy and awkward with self-deprecating humour and great comedy timing, but is also incredibly intelligent and articulate.
I bought a Cube Nuroad Race (aluminium) gravel bike about 3 years ago and have since upgraded the wheels to Hunt Gravel Race and changed the alu seatpost for a more flexy Canyon carbon leaf spring one.
The wheels make a big difference and are about 700 grams lighter and roll much nicer than the original set.
Still using the original wheel set during the winter time when it gets all damp, muddy and, ocasionally, snowy around these parts.
There is a middle ground where the most value is to be had without having to spend the insane amounts "top" components go for these days.
Apart from performance differences in groupsets, do you ever try to monitor the durability and longevity of each groupset over mileage/time?
Great video series Ollie. đ
Latex tubes and upgraded tires for sure is best first upgrade.
Always like the style in which these videos are produced. Honestly, cheerfully but never condescending and GCN seem to understand that we all don't have the budget of Ineos.
Thanks Alan. That means a lot!
I agree. I enjoy upgrading my used basic bike and wife's as much as I enjoy riding it. I could just go out and buy a new fully equiped bike but where is the fun in that? And it seems like the first thing you need to do on a new bike is wheel, seat, peddles, tires, innertubes and handlebars anyway.
One of your best Ollie - you can tell you were having fun. I know GCN like cycling relies on sponsors but Iâd love if you could test Di2 against AXS.
This is a reallyÂČ good bike, good enough
I will use it for daily commute and weekend long ride as well
Hi Ollie thanks for the shout out! I guess me binging GCN content made me stand out haha
I like your final recommendation - if you have an aluminium frame, upgrade to 105.
Ollie with the Jingle All The Way joke⊠niiiice!!!
Great series !
Thanks, we're happy you enjoyed it :D
Awesome ideas!
I love projects like this, go for it,
LOL the gears are turning in my head to see what is possible with my 8 speed commuter bike but realistically I know the money spent would be better used just buying a nicer bike.
I'll keep my commuter as it is I'am looking to add another bike but I looking at an e-bike a pedal assist, Im 60 with a bit of arthritis which the bicycling and walking helps keep it under control.
There is a future project idea upgrade an e-bike maybe not.
I like what you did with the Canyon.đ
Great video series. Probably the safest upgrade would have been to upgrade to Ultegra group set. I love mine!
Jingle all the way!!
Awesome bike!
Ollie sticking to true beginner form and keeping his helmet on through the entire interview. đ
Turbo Man reference!
Look forward to seeing the cheap/ expensive bike vs the expensive/cheap bike. Been struggling to find the parts to upgrade my entry level Salsa gravel bike with Shimano Sora to GRX. I can tell you itâs very difficult to find bike components here in Canada. Iâm at the point of giving up and just ordering a canyon grail or grizl with 2x grx and selling my bike.
Unexpected Jingle All the way reference... that's a supernice from me!
I switched my bars from 42cm to 38cm and it made a massive difference to my comfort. It took a lot of pressure out of my neck and upper back.
Have you noticed any difference when climbing out the saddle?
No absolutely none at all. I did notice it being slightly twitchier but nothing major. I stayed with exactly the same make and model of bars, just narrower.
I started with 10 Speed Durace Di2. "Upgraded" to an Ultegra double pivot brake calipers and Ultegra crank with power meters several years down the road. :)
The Turbo Man in 1996 reference was brilliant Dr. Bridgewood đđđ. The only thing better, would be a Tickle Me Elmo referenceđ.
Oh yeah, and the bike was nice to đđ.
All jokes aside, well done!
Looking forward to a video on the best road/gravel bike you can build for $1000.00 (U.S/pounds/whatever lol).
Year ago I have found Van Rysel RR 900 AF frame and decided to make it as second bike. And week later I have found the Di2 9010 full set for my Giant TCR SL. So I have moved 9000 set from it to Van Rysel and I am happy with this.
That Turbo Man comment is all I need to give this video a thumbs up đ€Łđ€Ł
@gcntech you should consider putting the sora groupset on a top range frameset to compare the impact of groupset vs frameset when upgrading.
I have to say that great mechanical disc brakes are really really good what comes to both modulation and stopping power. I was surprised how good they are when I bought my commuter with TRP Spyre C's in 2019.
For a road bike that needs less breaking than my mtb I would gladly take good mechanical disc brakes. I hate bleeding, it's pain in the ass. Mechanical disc brakes are so easy to maintain.
Watched upgrade videos 2 and 3 back to back.
New drinking game.
One shot every time Ollie says â bang for your buckâ
âŠâŠhammeredâŠ.. *hic*
You gotta slam the stem! This is GCN after all. đ
Yeah man, it has be slammed . It is the law
hi GCN, Great upgrade! As you mentioned in previous videos, the bike's geometry is the biggest upgrade. can you make the geometry of an endurance bike more race oriented/agressive? Then compare it with others.
Must admit when I saw the start of the series I couldn't see the point, but seeing it in completion it has been a good exercise. Well done Ollie for highlighting the lessons learnt. Being able to mix comonents in group sets is so useful, I tend to favour Shimano and have run various Shimano levels, and other compatible products in drive trains over the years. I also agree you should experiment with cheap components before buying the 'final' expensive one for components like seat posts, handlebars, stems. Ask your mates if they have anything laying around or buy some thing second hand on ebay.
We're glad you found it helpful, Tony!
I'm leaving my entry level bike as it is (for now) and building a completely new custom bike to my own liking. Funnily enough, I combine a really expensive Specialized Allez Sprint frameset with a 105 R7000 mechanical groupset and put Zipp 303 S on it. All in all, a relatively mid-range bike.
Great content
Iâd like to see the crap groupset that was on the canyon on the top canyon frame v dura ace on this basic frame.
Great vid
I upgraded my entry level ribble to tiagra hydro brakes and can attest to it being a night and day change. This has been a great series! My question isâŠwhat would you do next??
That would probably be my next upgrade if I upgraded anything. Nothing like hydraulic disc brakes, although the cable actuated ones are much easier to work on.
What wheels do you have on it? If you haven't upgraded wheels yet, I'd say that would be next. They make a very noticeable difference
Wheels are the most important , start there,. Menial feels "night and day change" to you? Wait till you do a real upgrade.
Couple of grams = night and day = lol
@@mericanignoranc3551 rotating mass reduction on wheels is 3-4x more of difference in feel
@@mericanignoranc3551 cool. Iâve upgraded wheels. Thanks though.
Also putting cryo-treated rotors and good pads, and a set of lightweight wheels is exactly what I did with my old Mazda3 lol
I've seen all videos from this serie and well they are all great and very entertaining to watch as always. What I've probably missed is how you managed to install di2 in a frame that probably wasn't di2 ready. how did you connect the components to the battery? Back in the day even on bikes that entered the showroom as di2 bikes had a box underneath the stem. How did you manage to do this? I am asking this because I want, in time, to upgrade my titanium non-di2 ready frame to e-shifting and SRAM has the best cards since I have a Hammerhead K2 unit and I thought it would be a huge pain in the bum to get the battery connected to all components.
Review episode 2. He talks about it a little
When you do the blind test on 105 di2 and dura ace di2 can you please use the same hood covers for both if possible? Because I think that you can tell which one is which based on the hoods of the groupsets.
Thanks for the shoutout, will be looking forward for that video đđ„
As we are often told, weight is less important than aero except on climbs. A road bike is essentially a torso lowering bike, but this has spacers under the stem so that Ollie is showing his stomach to the wind even in the drops e.g. 12:27. The biggest bang for your buck would be removing the spacers, imho.
I went to the University of Bath. Nostalgia.
Good bike makeover video. It would have been even better if you timed yourself using the original group set and then rode the same route and timed yourself with the Dura Ace group set. The bike got lighter and in theory should have gotten faster too.
Looking forward for the next episode then...
Dura Ace wheel set 1500 g. ÂŁ997
My own built alloy wheelset 1350 g. For climbing at 15kmh. ÂŁ89.
How about an old alloy frame, loaded with the latest tech? Find the fastest bike of the old generation, and putting in the latest tech and seeing how itâll match up to todays super bikes!
I bought this frame but with 105 mechanical & rim brakes 2 months ago - it's a decent weight, and only ÂŁ1250 for the bike. Love it and great value for money.
Nice đ
Rebuilding bikes has always been something I have enjoyed doing (one of my frames has had three drivetrain swaps), but rebuilds similar to this video NOW (as in today) make no sense. Two reasons: 1. The performance difference between top tier (Dura Ace/Red) down to mid-tier (105/Rival) isn't what it use to be and are damn near identical; and 2. The cost of bike parts is just too expensive to justify such an attempt unless you have the money in the first place.
Back when I first started to ride the cost of top tier parts was high, but still within the budget of most people. Also, even though mid-tier parts cost about half/third of the top tier these mid-tier parts are still extremely expensive.
I have learned through experience to not go higher than second best (Ultegra/Force) because the performance is almost exactly the same with a minimal weight penalty. (A hard crash going down a mountain in HK damaged a Red rear derailleur and the replacement was $300 versus a Force at $100).
One thing I completely agree with is mixing parts up on the drivetrain to minimize weight and maximize cost efficiency with the crankset and cassette being the two parts that contribute at least 50% the weight difference, so if the money is available get 105/Ultegra/Rival/Force with the top-tier crankset and second best cassette. With the money you save get better wheels/tires
To give an idea on the weight difference with builds:
2005 Giant TCR Comp (aluminum steering tube fork) with a Force 22 drivetrain, Dura Ace 9100 cranks, Ultegra cassette, Ritchey WCS cockpit, wheelset weighing about 1525 grams comes in at 16.5 lbs. (Pirelli tires)
2011 Giant TCR Comp (full carbon fork) with a Red drivetrain, Dura Ace cranks, Ritchey WCS cockpit, 1500 gram wheelset comes in at about 15 lbs. (Kenda Valkyrie tires)
2021 Giant TCR Advanced Pro SL built with the same set up as the 2005 bike except the wheels weigh 1435 grams comes in at a little under 15 lbs. (Vittoria Corsa tires)
If it wasn't for the fork on the 2005 frame the odds are they would all be with a pound of each other. (The Red used is the 2013 10 speed version).
Tires and powermeter for performance, wheels and handlebar/bartape for enjoyment.
As long as you have (at least) the latest 10 speed tiagra on your bike, I wouldnÂŽt bother upgrading the groupset
As a 9 speed tiagra rider. I feel called out.
Hi GCN,
Interesting to note that cross compatibility opens doors to save weight, especially when replacing wear and tear parts.
Do you guys have any experience with miche parts like cassettes?
These is some cases save more weight than a complete groupset at good prices. Was wondering if these run as well as the standard shimano parts as per your opinion.
Any other brands inter operable with shimano might be nice to see compared to stock shimano đ
I love you too Ollie đ
Thanks Ollie and crew...sorry about Turbo-man in 96 dude . The coolest shot was the Bee on the bar ?
Thanks for the video series Olle!! I have wonder the same question for some time on what to do with my Specialized Roubaix Carbon SLR 2016 bike, since it has mechanical shifting and brakes. 105 would be the best upgrade for my budget. Thanks
You might not have been able to get 105 DI2, but you would have been able to get hold of mechanical (with hydro disc) 105.
For me 105 DI2 is just too expensive for the market it is aimed at.
Conveniently Ribble offer the Endurance SL with a variety of group sets so you can see the difference in prices.
So with the hydraulic disc version,
Compared with mechanical 105, DI2 105 adds ÂŁ600 and mechanical Ultegra adds ÂŁ300.
What scares me even more about DI2 is the difference in price for parts. You can get a mechanical 105 front mech for around ÂŁ30 whereas the DI2 version is >ÂŁ200!
Ollie seems your front tire is on backwards check your rotation arrow.
I have a 2017 giant rapid and am hoping I can do upgrades on it. Delighted to see this video but disappointed to see its so expensive, be cheaper for me to get a base model road bike. GCN can you do a more budget friendly one
What about the sensah empire pro groupset?
Its said to be comparable to a mechanical 105 and is a lot cheaper.
maybe thats also an interesting upgrade path
Their sponsors wouldn't like that lmao
Expensive frame cheap group set!!
Love the comparo videos. Maybe you can help me with my current conundrum: I have a 1x gravel bike with a mullet drive train (10-50) and 2 different sized front rings (40 and 44). One for road and one for gravel. I also have a road and a gravel wheelset, both about 40mm deep. But Iâm curious how much slower than gravel bike in full road mode is compared to a road bike with the same tires and wheels. Only difference is would be the frames and gearing (assuming itâs be 2x). I have my first stage race coming up and am second guessing my road going gravel bike for the job. Technically it has a lower climbing gear than 2x for the super steep climbing but Iâm not sure how much the frame and lower top end speed will effect my ability to stay with the group. Thanks!
Are those carbon bars with the flatter aero profile a good upgrade over standard aluminium bars? I've considered them more for their flatter profile as it seems would be more comfortable as it spreads out the weight on your hands better? I have at times gotten numbness in my fingers and find myself repositioning my hands to compensate.
Go carbon, it absorbs vibrations milion times better than aluminium.
doing the same extreme edition as upgrade a bike like the super cheap from amazon just put the front carbon fiber wheel with high end tires atm and as you say you can feel it, waiting for the trasmision components