That boy is a damned genius I tell ya! I'm kind of mad that I didnt think of this first. Now... be like Kent Bergsma from mercedessource and make a kit for sale for $149.99 + $49.99 S&H.
I wish I could take credit, the brilliant minds over on Peachparts came up with the idea, I just compiled it all into a video: www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/225004-lower-micron-fuel-filter-mod.html Now if you stick around for a while, I've got about 6 or 8 of these time-serts since you can only buy them in packs of 10 online, so I'm going to be trying to do a giveaway of them, debating either one or two at a time so a few viewers have some.
Affiliate Links (I get a percentage of what you spend on these items at no additional cost to you): Here are some links to products we used in this video on amazon in case you want to try this: Time-sert 14155 (10 pack): amzn.to/2U7HUOS Baldwin BF7591-D: amzn.to/38I9lE9 Things you need to use the gigantic primary "prefilter" that I have between my lift pump and fuel tank: Filter housing: amzn.to/31lon0T Mesh filter: amzn.to/39VP14r Fittings: amzn.to/2XqYBHq 3/8 fuel line: amzn.to/3gtDdZy Clamps for fuel line: amzn.to/31mavUd
We don't want restriction, but we do want clean fuel. There was a study done by caterpillar I believe it was that found debris greater than 7 microns is the main cause of wear and damage to injector pumps, so switching out the stock filter that is rated somewhere between 10 and 20 microns if I recall correctly to this 2 micron rated filter should dramatically increase the life of the injection system, assuming it doesn't restrict the flow too much. Which if you check out my other video on testing fuel pressure, I found out it doesn't restrict it really at all: czcams.com/video/jiPonBwkxeI/video.html (Timestamped for your convenience! )
an OM606 might use a different filter thread size. I had a 95 om606 and I feel like it was smaller than M14 threads, but I'm completely unsure, I'll see what I can look up though, if nothing else maybe come up with an alternative for you!
The Racors are super nice filters. I didn't wanna spend the money for that kind of setup, but getting it for free is hard to beat! You'll be super happy with it I'm sure!
I sure did. it was a 95 E300D, there is a picture here: trythistv.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/10246357_10203792974522678_6250792671031315751_n.jpg It had 374k and a laundry list of problems when I got it. I never once got to drive it further than about 50 miles before something else would break. I loved how it rode, how it handled, heated seats was great in the winter, but the car was a basket case. I spent way too much money on it before I finally gave up and traded it for what became the drivetrain donor for my purple truck about 3 years ago. It had partially receded #5 and #6 valve seats, it would chuff out the intake ports but they'd seal up with a little RPM, so it was pretty flat below about 2500 rpm, felt very similar to how the 617 tends to build boost and come alive at around 2k. The gold W116 300SD in that photo is my very first car. I bought it for $300 at a junkyard when I was 15. I drove it until I was 25 with very minimal repair needs. The northern rust started getting bad, and a gentleman from Alabama contacted me with the intent of restoring it so I sold it to him quite cheaply as parts were getting hard to find (window regulators were a big one, A/C didn't work, windows stopped rolling down, 100 degree days...). The car was in fantastic shape other than the rockers being rusty and little spots here and there, Mechanically I'd have trusted that car to the end of the earth. The grey car you see will be making an appearance sometime soon, it's another 82 300D, but it has a 4 speed manual, and 2.88 rear diff, k26 turbo swap, and has been sitting for a while, so we'll be getting it back into shape once the blue car is top notch for my wife to drive. The blue car in all these recent videos was given to me, it had no oil pressure. I discovered that was due to a lack of oil, but it had already wiped out the cam, and vacuum pump, I checked the crank and bearings and everything was ok in the bottom end, but I'll need to do a timing chain before long as I suspect the lack of lubrication could have caused some stretch that might smooth things out even more.
I switched it back to the stock configuration because I had a whole case of the stock filters I wanted to use up, and haven't used them all up yet. I'll eventually put the Baldwin back on.
@@trythistv do you see potential that just raising the stock one with spacers (and lengthening hoses between banjo's) would work or is moving it little toward back of engine pretty much a" must" do also?
@@trevorstrasser6136 16-18 psi variable if I remember correctly for the Fass TT SS, you could still get a regulator on it if it's too high. But the pressure isn't crazy high, most gasoline pumps are in the 40s.
Not really recently, but I'm also more and more careful where I get fuel at. I ended up destroying a p7100 injector pump on one of my work trucks last year from a bad tank of fuel, started getting real careful about where I fill up after that $2000+ debacle
The piece I used to adapt the threads is meant as a thread repair sleeve, like a helicoil, Time-Sert makes them that are fully solid rather than the cheap wire ones other brands make, part number is 14155. here is a link to a 10 pack of them: amzn.to/2U7HUOS
build the bracket, it's going to fail... the engine shakes way to much to have all that on 1 bolt... Look how often the air cleaner bracket breaks, and it's on 3 bolts!
No doubt. I'll be making a bracket very soon, in the meantime I'm sorting out some other stuff on the car that'll be coming out in some videos hopefully soon as I get it all figured out, exciting things for this old w123 :)
Just what I've had since doing the mod, works great, no real seeming downsides, getting good fuel is key to filter life, as it will clog up much faster if you've got trash in the tank but beyond that kind of extenuating circumstances, it's just like factory but a little safer
Thats a pretty legit setup they offer, quite dramatically more expensive than this option, but could be a better option as those filters are even larger than the bf7291d
It looks super legit, well made for sure, had I seen that before I found this setup I probably woulda just done that. I've bookmarked their site as they have some other super handy looking bits and pieces for our cars!
It is entirely possible, with a good lift pump and overflow valve it should take some time to clog as long as you're getting quality fuel, the Baldwin filter is significantly larger, so while it does filter much finer, it also has a lot more surface area so in theory it should flow similarly and hold more contaminants before it plugs up. I'll be doing some testing as we drive the car, as well as I'm putting finishing touches on a video about testing the overflow valve and lift pump output to make sure the IP gets the proper pressure to fill the elements. I'm going to include a comparison of fuel pressure with the stock filter and this filter to see if it restricts it at all.
This is great, I'm gonna look for a filter and adapter sleeve today, thanks for the video👍
That boy is a damned genius I tell ya!
I'm kind of mad that I didnt think of this first.
Now... be like Kent Bergsma from mercedessource and make a kit for sale for $149.99 + $49.99 S&H.
I wish I could take credit, the brilliant minds over on Peachparts came up with the idea, I just compiled it all into a video: www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/225004-lower-micron-fuel-filter-mod.html
Now if you stick around for a while, I've got about 6 or 8 of these time-serts since you can only buy them in packs of 10 online, so I'm going to be trying to do a giveaway of them, debating either one or two at a time so a few viewers have some.
You got some great keyword rankings on this video. Should do very well!
Why thankya good sir!
Affiliate Links (I get a percentage of what you spend on these items at no additional cost to you):
Here are some links to products we used in this video on amazon in case you want to try this:
Time-sert 14155 (10 pack): amzn.to/2U7HUOS
Baldwin BF7591-D: amzn.to/38I9lE9
Things you need to use the gigantic primary "prefilter" that I have between my lift pump and fuel tank:
Filter housing: amzn.to/31lon0T
Mesh filter: amzn.to/39VP14r
Fittings: amzn.to/2XqYBHq
3/8 fuel line: amzn.to/3gtDdZy
Clamps for fuel line: amzn.to/31mavUd
Very informative! Thank you:)
Awesome. I am going to do this in my OM617 td that I'm installing in a Volvo 145 4x4 wagon.
Your injection pump will thank you for the cleaner fuel!
Why would you want to restrict gas flow brilliant solution tho I liked that adapter bolt
We don't want restriction, but we do want clean fuel. There was a study done by caterpillar I believe it was that found debris greater than 7 microns is the main cause of wear and damage to injector pumps, so switching out the stock filter that is rated somewhere between 10 and 20 microns if I recall correctly to this 2 micron rated filter should dramatically increase the life of the injection system, assuming it doesn't restrict the flow too much. Which if you check out my other video on testing fuel pressure, I found out it doesn't restrict it really at all: czcams.com/video/jiPonBwkxeI/video.html (Timestamped for your convenience! )
Awesome. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully there is enough space on an om606.
an OM606 might use a different filter thread size. I had a 95 om606 and I feel like it was smaller than M14 threads, but I'm completely unsure, I'll see what I can look up though, if nothing else maybe come up with an alternative for you!
@@trythistv Thanks. However now looks like I'm going to use a $$$ racor that was given to me. Thanks anyway.
The Racors are super nice filters. I didn't wanna spend the money for that kind of setup, but getting it for free is hard to beat! You'll be super happy with it I'm sure!
@@trythistv U had a 606? I thought they r forever engines? I know that 95 never had a turbo.
I sure did. it was a 95 E300D, there is a picture here: trythistv.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/10246357_10203792974522678_6250792671031315751_n.jpg
It had 374k and a laundry list of problems when I got it. I never once got to drive it further than about 50 miles before something else would break.
I loved how it rode, how it handled, heated seats was great in the winter, but the car was a basket case. I spent way too much money on it before I finally gave up and traded it for what became the drivetrain donor for my purple truck about 3 years ago.
It had partially receded #5 and #6 valve seats, it would chuff out the intake ports but they'd seal up with a little RPM, so it was pretty flat below about 2500 rpm, felt very similar to how the 617 tends to build boost and come alive at around 2k.
The gold W116 300SD in that photo is my very first car. I bought it for $300 at a junkyard when I was 15. I drove it until I was 25 with very minimal repair needs. The northern rust started getting bad, and a gentleman from Alabama contacted me with the intent of restoring it so I sold it to him quite cheaply as parts were getting hard to find (window regulators were a big one, A/C didn't work, windows stopped rolling down, 100 degree days...). The car was in fantastic shape other than the rockers being rusty and little spots here and there, Mechanically I'd have trusted that car to the end of the earth.
The grey car you see will be making an appearance sometime soon, it's another 82 300D, but it has a 4 speed manual, and 2.88 rear diff, k26 turbo swap, and has been sitting for a while, so we'll be getting it back into shape once the blue car is top notch for my wife to drive.
The blue car in all these recent videos was given to me, it had no oil pressure. I discovered that was due to a lack of oil, but it had already wiped out the cam, and vacuum pump, I checked the crank and bearings and everything was ok in the bottom end, but I'll need to do a timing chain before long as I suspect the lack of lubrication could have caused some stretch that might smooth things out even more.
any updates on this? What did you end up doing to improve the mount? Longer bolts and use spacers similar to DDay??
I switched it back to the stock configuration because I had a whole case of the stock filters I wanted to use up, and haven't used them all up yet. I'll eventually put the Baldwin back on.
@@trythistv do you see potential that just raising the stock one with spacers (and lengthening hoses between banjo's) would work or is moving it little toward back of engine pretty much a" must" do also?
I'm kinda interested to see a Fass or Airdog fuel system replace the stock system.
The psi rating on either one would be way overkill for a Mercedes
@@trevorstrasser6136 16-18 psi variable if I remember correctly for the Fass TT SS, you could still get a regulator on it if it's too high. But the pressure isn't crazy high, most gasoline pumps are in the 40s.
have you had issues with these filters clogging up? My 1st one clogged up after a month.
Not really recently, but I'm also more and more careful where I get fuel at. I ended up destroying a p7100 injector pump on one of my work trucks last year from a bad tank of fuel, started getting real careful about where I fill up after that $2000+ debacle
Have you added a valve and drain line in place of the bottom filter plug?
I have not, however that is an excellent idea, would be much easier to check for water instead of popping the drain plug out every so often.
Hi sir, il love this video! What is the ext name of your little sleeve ? is it handmand or we can buy those ? Thanks in advance!
The piece I used to adapt the threads is meant as a thread repair sleeve, like a helicoil, Time-Sert makes them that are fully solid rather than the cheap wire ones other brands make, part number is 14155. here is a link to a 10 pack of them: amzn.to/2U7HUOS
Should be the same for OM616 (1983 240d) correct?
Yes sir! Filter mount should be identical, nearly everything in my videos about my 300d should be alarmingly similar on your 240d
Great, thanks. Just replaced the filter; but will try this next diesel purge.
build the bracket, it's going to fail... the engine shakes way to much to have all that on 1 bolt... Look how often the air cleaner bracket breaks, and it's on 3 bolts!
No doubt. I'll be making a bracket very soon, in the meantime I'm sorting out some other stuff on the car that'll be coming out in some videos hopefully soon as I get it all figured out, exciting things for this old w123 :)
Would you be able to make a video on pointing out what parts you would without a doubt take out of a salvaged w123?
I can certainly try! Thanks for the suggestion!
trythistv Hope so! I look forward to it!
Any long term experience ?
Just what I've had since doing the mod, works great, no real seeming downsides, getting good fuel is key to filter life, as it will clog up much faster if you've got trash in the tank but beyond that kind of extenuating circumstances, it's just like factory but a little safer
Where do you get the time cert doohickey?
I haven't found a good place to get less than 10 at a time, but here is the link to get 10 of them: amzn.to/2U7HUOS
or you could buy the kit from doomsday diesel
Thats a pretty legit setup they offer, quite dramatically more expensive than this option, but could be a better option as those filters are even larger than the bf7291d
Great video with a great option as well I just like the bracket that he sells with that kit
It looks super legit, well made for sure, had I seen that before I found this setup I probably woulda just done that. I've bookmarked their site as they have some other super handy looking bits and pieces for our cars!
trythistv yeah he has some great stuff over there mostly aimed toward swaps Benz source also has some cool stuff as well
Is it ok for the fuel flow rate ? Just wondering, going 10 times the filtering rate, can you starve the injection pump out of diesel ?
It is entirely possible, with a good lift pump and overflow valve it should take some time to clog as long as you're getting quality fuel, the Baldwin filter is significantly larger, so while it does filter much finer, it also has a lot more surface area so in theory it should flow similarly and hold more contaminants before it plugs up. I'll be doing some testing as we drive the car, as well as I'm putting finishing touches on a video about testing the overflow valve and lift pump output to make sure the IP gets the proper pressure to fill the elements. I'm going to include a comparison of fuel pressure with the stock filter and this filter to see if it restricts it at all.
@@trythistv very much appreciated !