HVAC 147 Vacuum p14 Example 2 single hose setup
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 01. 2022
- Another example of fast vacuum but with a single vacuum hose.
There is a lot of similarities between the first method and this one.
This is also a long but detailed video covering every individual step.
excellent I have learned much more watching the videos on CZcams than going to school
The amount of effort and thought you put this channel is rare. Thanks so much.
Thank you
Never did a vacuum pump test before every use, just changed the oil regularly.
I think I'll start checking before each use 🤔
Thanks again for the videos!
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🎯🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
If you flow nitrogen before, and use the gas ballast, you will find the oil can last a few runs. I don't is when I'm working on multiple unit in a row.
If there is any time between calls like service, the I still prefer to change it right away for the sake of my pump.
However getting a freezer back online at 2am, the rules and best practices get bent bent and broken. 🤫
A lot of info, quick 👍.
great information
Thank u sir
I do everything the same these days except I think it's best to put your micron gauge on the liquid side, I don't like how you have it on the suction because it's close to your pump. If you put it the same way you have it w the core removal tools but put it on the liquid side,it's the furthest point from the pump so I feel confident the whole system is pulled down to what it's reading. It may not make a difference but it gives me piece of mind
I am not a fan of the single hose setup.
I like to pull 2 large hose from both sides straight to the pump no manifold.
This prevents restrictions in coils and metering devices.
It also always me to pull from a hose to the Refrigerant tank on the liquid side port of the core removal tool.
This way after the dacay test I can open the liquid refregersnt directly into the liquid line with 0 contamination.
Even if I need to open a service valve, it prevents contamination when the valve caps are removed as it will now be under positive pressure.
@@love2hvac ya, I used to go both ways too back in my gauge manifold days 😆 but now with these big hoses and pulling cores I'll never go back and I really think unless you know you have a wet system one hose on the suction is well enough. Hey if I can pull down to 250 or less with one hose most of the time and hold under 500 for 15 min, I call that pretty dam good. Much better than how I was taught years ago
Good information! I was a little confused on what you were saying and pointing to at minute 17:15.
meaning we have to introduce liquid refrigerant into the system while its in a vacuum.
If we put it in the liquid line it will make its way back to the vapor side as a vapor and all is good.
If we put the liquid refrigerant in the the vapor side direct we will get liquid refrigerant to the compressor and damage the compressor when we start it up.
Very thorough video! Subscribed!
What tank heater model do you use?
Awesome video man I swear
4:48 a wrench with about a ¼ turn on the manifold would allow the hose to connect without the adaptor
👍👍
Couple kinds of vacuum pump in the market so is there a guide to know which size can use for applause because if working in small appliances the vacuum pump will be different than that one on AC residential system with 50 ft or more?Thank you Mr.Ty.🌹
Working on appliances many times also means less space to work.
The 8 CFM pump will pull a good and proper vacuum. However a compact 2cfm pump is lighter smaller and will do the same job.
I would not buy another just for appliances.
Also, there is nothing wrong with appliance work. I have 3 friends that have appliance businesses. However you are bright and eager to learn. Set your goals high and achieve them. You can always do appliances on the side or at any time in the future go back to them.
Consider supermarkets, rack systems, process refregeration, chillers, home building science, building automation.
Lots of demand for these. It takes time to get into them.
Aim for the moon, if you miss, you may hit a star.
Great video! Why not attach the vac gauge on the liquid line, to get a more meaningful reading?
Thanks
I prefer to have my gauge at the indoor coil for a more meaningful reading but after the decay test it will show either way.
I like to pull a vacuum all the way to the refrigerant bottle on the liquid side. This way I ensure the charging hose is dehydrated and there will be no contamination when breaking the vacuum.
Now when I break the vacuum liquid refregerant enters the liquid line with 0 chance of contamination.
I see very often techs undo a beautiful vacuum by connecting the charge hose and introducing air and moisture. Even if they purge the hose there is still air and moisture that can turn to acid. This is also true even with the service valves that can leak.
Either way I made multiple vacuum videos showing multiple different methods for people to see and evaluate the differences.
Is it better to have the micron gauge on the high side vs suction side?
I will be happy that you are using one!
I personally like it on the low side because I will be charging on the high side. However there are many methods. Bryan Orr with HVAC school has a method I did not show here.
Did u said nitrogen can flows through compressor even 3 psi? Please explain why 🙏
do you have a video on a mini split . had a leak and loss all the refrigerant .can not run the compressor ,how do i fell it up ?
I don't have any mini split videos but Craig with "ac service tech" has a lot and a mini split ductless book!
I'm bit confused, that's not how I was told to do it. Was told that vacuum gauge goes on liquid line if we are pulling vacuum from suction line as it is far away as possible from the vacuum pump. Also not sure why we had to vacuum leaky yellow hose, it could have been purged, connected, and had refrigerant ready to go. I get that 3rd CRT may be needed. Thanks
There are many ways of doing something. That's why made many videos of several examples.
Pulling a vacuum from the yellow hose ensures it is dehydrated as much as possible. Purging the Bose will not get the moisture out. The hose also has a valve so it can still be isolated.
You will also have the small space between the connection and the hose that cannot be purged.
The micron gauge can be in rather side. I apply it to the suction side with it's separate valve core tool to protect my micron gauge and save having to move anything.
Since I have the tank ready to go on the liquid line, that port is used up. having it on the suction line provides room for it. I use a separate valve tool to valve off my micron gauge so oil is not pushed into it.
If you watch the entire series, it's about seeing different ways and understanding. I was told to do a lot of things one way and later realized where in some cases better ways and in some cases those ways were not right at all.
Get the book, vacuum for the service engineer and get the facts right from the source.
I pulled a vacuum the same way yesterday and a new tech said another senior tech said you have to pull from both sides because the TXV will close and you'll only be pulling from one side and not the other. I was perplexed. I've heard something similar regarding low temp refrigeration systems but not on a heat pump. Please clarify if you have time. Can you perform your method in this video on one side only on a heat pump? Thank you.
I prefer pulling from both sides myself, there is an example in the video series.
Some TXV are hard shut off designed to prevent refrigerant migration however they should remain open in a vacuum. They work off a pressure differential to close and a vacuum should not be enough for it to close.
As for refrigeration, there is a solinoid valve that should be manually opened during nitrogen flow and vacuum. This can be done by energizing the fan coil and having it call or a manual ring magnet, or the solinoid magnet tool.
Not mentioned is EXV.
Some equipment will require an operation code for the EXV to fully open. There is also battery powered manual controllers to drive them open. There is also a magnet tool that has to be spun manually to force them open.
New equipment comes open but if your working on existing equipment you need to know how to open them especially since they only have one service side to work with.
Hopefully that helps.
I confuse the technic may i learn more..
Thankfully for full demonstration Mr.Ty. Q: What is the purpose of open gas ballast till 20000 micron? Thanks.💐
Prevevets moisture from condensing into the pump oil
Keeping the pump oil lasting longer.
Ballast is connected between stage 1 and 2 of your pump. Instead of pulling moisture through 2nd stage and adding more contamination to the oil, we open ballast and dump that air/vapor out the ballast. 1st stage can pull a pretty low vacuum but adding in second stage later on can help us pull a very low vacuum.
I was using a single hose vacuum pump with my ex boss and when my new company asked me to connect a dual hose vacuum setup I was confused lol
Yea that's why i made so many versions of the vacuum set up trying to cover the pros and cons of each.
Hopefully it helps
I noticed your micron gauge shoot up at 15:30 in the video when you shut the valve to it, you think maybe that NYLOG cr@p ain’t all it’s cracked up to be?
The nylog works great. I the old days we used refregerant oil to do the same. NYLOG is made of refregerant oil.
The reason for the increase is 2 part.
1 the ball valves trap gas behind the valve. When the valve is closed it releases the gas and you immediately see that.
The second is conductance the pump is the lowest pressure point. When it's closed off you still have some flow for the piping to that point to balance out.
@@love2hvac So it’s oil? Never tried the stuff, I thought it was some kind of goo like that system clogging leak stop they’ve been selling for years.
That video sucked