HVAC 150 Vacuum p17 Example 5 Triple Evacuation
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2022
- Triple evacuation, there are many variation of this method here is just one of many examples
As promised here is Jeremy Smiths article on triple evacuation.
hvacrschool.com/triple-evacua...
Bryan Orr take on triple Evac
hvacrschool.com/podcasts/trip...
open.spotify.com/episode/2aUb...
In the late 60's, the accepted rule was to pressurize the units, I'm talking 90 to 150#'s and then release the nitrogen, evac and repeat. The vac pumps were belt driven at that time, the refrigeration compressors were mostly belt driven as well and the condensers had bleed ports on top of the condenser so we could bleed off non condensables. It was also believed that anything larger than a 3 cfm pump for 4 ton or less actually caused icing and was bad. Amazing how we've discovered so many new truths. Fascinating video.
Yea with certain vacuum pumps you still have to do that if not the oil shoots all out of your pump and can damage it
@@JohnnyPyro4l To be clear, purging is what can minimize oil flying out of the vac pump? To minimize vapors from atomizing in the vac pump and causing bubbles.
👍👍. Thanks for the free schooling.
I’ve never seen a vac down with a tank and hose ready to charge . Very interesting and a sure fire way to charge without contamination !
Fine video.
Thank you.
Nicely done. Thanks for the link to the other videos.
Curious if you got the videos I sent with the refrigerant bubbling out of the oil in the sight glass.
I believed that nitrogen dried moisture like a sponge. 🤣
Thanks again for the videos.
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🏌🏻♀️🎯
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
That's what I was taught too!
Since I didn't smoke, I had no idea how to guage the vacuum 🤣
Μπράβο HELLAS
Nitrogen is excellent in triple evac. I usually do triple and evac to 150 with increase of no more than 230.
Thank you Mr.Ty for informative video I’m tried with this method and I don’t like it because some moisture will still in the system I see the best method is to heat up the system then through nitrogen then vacuum.🌺
I agree but now you know!
Missed you at the AHR today, hope to meet you tomorrow.
I was looking for you, then I realized, I have no idea what you look like!
Makes it difficult.
Send me an email and I will send my number
@@love2hvac I emailed you at love2hvac
what size of your Nitrogen tank?:) many thanks
Thanks for another great video! Any recommendations for a ductless mini split with only one service port?
Thank you.
Several years ago there was only one brand that I would back. A lot has changed since then. More manufactures have taken ductless serious and greatly improved.
Right now parts availability and proper installation would be key factor.
@@love2hvac Thank you. Sorry, I did not word my initial question properly. I meant something like: say I want to apply the nitrogen purge methodology in this video to a ductless mini split system which only has one service port. Would you add the nitrogen in from the service port and crack the lineset fitting on the high side to let the nitrogen flow out, then snug it up again each time before the vacuum phase? Sorry if the question seems trivial or unprofessional I am just a beginner.
@@georgetsetsakos6088
Sorry I completely misunderstood.
That is a great question!
1st follow manufactures recommendations. Some units have solenloids and electronic expansion valves that will not be opened to allow a purge at all.
2 after the manufacture is covered or left out, you have, in my opinion, 3 options.
A Forego the nitrogen step and pull a vacuum, it's a much smaller volume.
B, yes leaving the opposite flare connection loose to allow a purge out there. Do not do this if it's a precharged line set or a mechanical connection other than a flare.
C add in a t connection with a service on the opposite line.
This one has some complexities to it. You would have use a flare tee or braze with nitrogen must must must be flowed threw when brazing it. Note that most manufactures are heavily against brazing on ductless units. Last, you have to wonder about the next person. They manufactures stoped supplying that port because it's not a liquid line. They had issues with people thinking it was one. So if you add a port and do it right, will it cause a problem with the next tech.
Great question!
Again, another great video!
Thank you Ty.
Besides AC, do you also do refrigeration work?
Thank you!
YES, I also do a good deal of refrigeration work.
I prefer Refrigeration. Once I get the base AC classes done, I will make some refrigeration videos but they are a ways out.
Wow great, can’t wait. That will catapult you over the top!
Do you also give some tech support on refrigeration problems? From time to time I run into issues on specialized equipment, where it would be nice to have 4 sets of eyes.
@love2hvac do you remove the Schrader on the side port of your first core removal tool? Because the 2nd core removal tool doesn't have a core depresser right?
Yes
Missed the point of overpressurizing with nitrogen leading to condensation of moisture?....damn....time to replay
İ love your videos 🖐🏼
Everybody wants a piece of the HVAC teet 😮
Does the same technique apply with commercial systems? If I have 250-300ft of pipe with 5 refnets and evaps? Should a little more pressure be applied at that point? I feel like rain water has gotten into the system and not sure of the best way to get it out with all the refnets and turns
It will take time. Heat the pipes as much as you can, change vacuum pump oil very often.
@@love2hvac thank you. This was solved. I had to detach the 5/8 flares on all the cassettes one by one. I put a flare x mip fitting on followed by a ball valve. After that , 150lbs of pressure each line until all or most moisture was out. Vac’d right down after. It Was a week of pondering and trial and error up to that point..
Which do you prefer in vacuum pumps,field piece or navac ?
I have not used the Feilpice so I can't say for sure but I really really really want to try it.
Hypothetically if you're breaking a system with nitrogen but you're working on a mini split with only one service valve do you can't open another end to let nitrogen flow through, what would you do to break the vacuum? Just add nitrogen to 5psi then let it out through the same way it went in?
I don't triple evac very often and I have never done it in a mini split.
Thanks for Your Video,, What about VRF/Multi systems?
The goal is to get the moisture out.
Once you get down to 200 micron range, valve the system off and it holds for over 30 minutes without rising above 500, then you have the moisture out.
Samsung mini split reccomends a 200 psi, a 400 psi then a final 600 psi pressure test for 60 minutes to check connections using nitrogen to checkfor leaks. Then a triple evacuation, 4000 microns for 5 minutes, 2000 microns for 5 minutes and finishing with 500 microns for 60 minutes. Breaking vacuums between each with nitrogen.
The COE has us do 600psi test for 24hrs with nitrogen. Then triple evac down to 300microns and it can’t go over 500 microns for an hour
Hi Ty, had a question. Is there a additional refrigerant charge per vertical foot. Air handler is located 70 feet higher than the heatpump. I did the additional line set charge but don't know if more is needed since most of the line set is a vertical run , will having most of the line set vertical make a difference? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Great question. Each manufacture will publish this in the installation manual.
Craig has a table and a writup that will better explain this
www.acservicetech.com/refrigerant-weights
@@love2hvac thank you, yea I looked into the installation manual didn't see anything about vertical line set just a line set length , add .6 per foot. Saids charging by weight is not a accurate charging method as it is a starting point. I added the length line set charge plus heatpump charge. Showing 10 superheat and 0 subcool TXV. I added one pound and still 0 subcool 10 superheat waited and added another pound and still 0subcool 10 superheat. I stopped as I didn't want to over charge . I know my testing instruments are working properly. 65 degrees outside 75 inside. Suction pressure 105 liquid pressure 180.R 410a. New air handler with matching heatpump.
It should be the same amount of refregerant for horizontal and vertical. However vertical may require traps and capacity differences . I am away from my library and computer but I will post see reasorces below about vertical piping.
hvacradvisors.com/Ice-pdfs/Piping/DuPont%20Refrigerant%20Piping%20Handbook%20by%20Garth%20Denison.pdf
www.tranebelgium.com/files/book-doc/20/en/20.aqerykdx.pdf
Shouldn’t the decay test have been below 500 for 410a too prove that system is ready
It depends on wich manufacture manual you read. Carrier says to pull to 500 microns and not rise above 1000 microns after only 7 minutes.
Goodman manual states pull down to 250 microns and not rise above 1000 microns after 10 minutes.
Another Goodman says evacuate below 500 microns and holed below 1000 after 10 minutes
A dakon manual says Evacuate system using vacuum pump to below 500 microns for 1 hour minimum.
A Lennox manual says
evacuate the line set and indoor unit until the
absolute pressure does not rise above 500 microns (29.9 inches of mercury) within a 20-minute period after shutting off the vacuum pump.
The lower you can go and hold the better you are.
@@love2hvac yeah so I just usually no matter what manufacture pull too 200 and make sure decay test not above 500, usually sit around 350 on a new install
Thank you for another great video, my question is Once you have pulled a vacuum down to 1000 µm and then you fill the line set with 2 to 5 psi of dry nitrogen and let it sit for 5 min Or so, ,,,you then relieve the pressure of the system of it’s nitrogen While continuing to allow nitrogen to flow through the line set at a very small rate,,, I am guessing you still need to have the trickle flow of nitrogen in the line set creating that positive pressure so that air does not force its self back into the line set and carry more moisture back into the line set??? I My statement/question makes some sort of sense to you😂🙏🏾
Yes keeping a slight positive pressure is important for that reason but more important to fully push out any moisture you can.
I think flowing nitrogen is more important that holding nitrogen at pressure.
If you go wick your not going to gain a lot of moisture from the pump all the way threw the hose to the unit.
@@love2hvac the teacher is teachin 💯🙏🏾☝️🍺
Anyway in the future you would be able to shoot a Video on how to use a low pressure control to set the box temperature on say a reach in cooler???, setting up the cut in & cut out Pressures….It would be great if you could use the tried and true formulas on how to figure the pressures based on a given refrigerant versus using the charts that are supplied with the pressure controls…..many thanks
Yes I actually have the rough footage of that recorded but I'm saving it for the refregeration playlist.
@@love2hvac now that is what I’m waitin on!!! Thank you🙏🏾
Terrible this is confusing