Why Romex Doesn't Belong in Conduit: Quality and Longevity
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- Videos mentioned in the show
Can Romex Cable be run Through Conduit? National Electrical Code Book
• Can Romex Cable be run...
• Shorted AC circuit
ABR Electric is dedicated to delivering electrical work that lasts a lifetime! In this video, we'll address a common question - why you should never put Romex in conduit - and explore the key factors that contribute to long-lasting electrical installations.
First and foremost, we'll emphasize the importance of following the National Electrical Code (NEC) guidelines. Romex, also known as non-metallic sheathed cable, is not designed to be run inside conduit. The outer jacket of Romex provides crucial insulation and protection for individual wires. When placed in conduit, Romex is unable to dissipate heat efficiently, which can lead to potential overheating and increased risks.
for all your residential electrical needs in McKinney, TX.
Here are some of the services we offer:
Residential electrical troubleshooting, installations, and repairs
Lighting installation and repairs
Panel changes and upgrades
Surge protectors
Generator installation (Authorized Generac Installer)
Meter base upgrades and repairs
Circuit installations
Electrical wiring and repair
Ceiling and exhaust fan installations
Breaker replacements
Electrical home safety inspections
Outlet and switch installations
Dimmer switches
Recessed and LED lighting installations
Outdoor lighting and timer installations
Smart thermostat installation
Smoke and carbon monoxide detector installations
Surge protection systems
Security lighting
Service panel upgrades
Tesla electrician services
Landscape lighting
Dedicated circuits
Electrical panel upgrades and installations
Breaker box panel installations
Indoor and outdoor lighting installations
Electrical installations and upgrades
Visit our website at abrelectric.com to learn more about our services and how we can assist you with your electrical needs. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for helpful tips, updates, and more. We look forward to serving you!
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
Sadly when I got my first electrical job as a helper 29 years ago, we were working on a brand new apartment complex and we stubbed the Romex from the disconnects through the flashing where the refrigerant lines passed through the wall. We stripped it and just slid the seal tight right over it. Some of the wires were too short so my journeyman handed me a bunch of yellow butt splices and had me make splices inside the flex. Even though I was green, I knew this wasn’t right but I was just a helper and had no say. As a journeyman today, I will never do anything like that.
Yes, you can run NM in conduit and should when it's vulnerable to damage. Code recommends using conduit in this case 334.15 I believe.
I have read about heat buildup. Are they crazy? NM(Romex) is usually ran inside bays with insulation often spray foam; talk about a chance for heat buildup, especially in an attic.
So, while I wouldn't use conduit for a whole house for NM I would use it in a basement from joist bay to an outlet on a concrete wall that's exposed. Or where the wire might get trashed. In fact my home passed electrical inspection with NM in conduit in similar situations and here in Westchester NY code enforcement can be quite stringent. I hope this clears up the situation of contradictory codes.
using emt as a sleeve isnt a conduit anymore
@@jeffriley-lq5np It's still a conduit, but it's not a complete conduit system when used as a sleeve.
Code doesn't "recommend" romex in conduit in 334.15; REQUIRES it. In the NEC, the term "shall" means mandatory.
@@pld8993 a conuit used as a sleeve. been passing inspection before you kids were born
We used to sleeve it when we had a light in a beam on a vaulted ceiling.
Love it when the algorithm pops up a channel I’ve never seen before. Very interesting and useful, instant sub!
As a Georgia electrical inspector and a GA Board Lic EN Master Electrician, I can attest to this issue being seen in every HVAC unit I have inspected. the joke begins with the fact that Gwinnett County inspectors who hold actual ICC or hold Board Lic is rare, who is going to work for $28 an hour, and hold legitimate credentials? Worst is one of the County Commissioners owns an HVAC company and when researching county open records we found he has never pulled a county permit to replace, install or changeout a HVAC system, hmmm maybe there is a secret permit portal ?? Next issue is the head of county planning and inspections is head of BOAG Building Official Association Georgia and is allowing new inspectors in county who can't pass ICC testing nor state boards to BUY a certification to fill the vacant low paying county positions for inspectors. This is the real problem with wiring and hack jobs in our county.
Are you telling me corrupt elections aren't Georgia's only problem.
Agreed with other reviews … please get to your point !
You spent 6 minutes and you still didn't not cover the question in the title, not at all. In your story your friend's issue was NOT the conduit, it was the damaged insulation and water. And if that was not Romex, you would have had the exact same issue.
No, THHN/THW in conduit, stranded would have fared much better I think
@@abrelectric you did not present any evidence to support that hypothesis
@@michaelkuzmin I don't need to. I'm sharing an opinion born out of experience.
Like most of my College professors.
My AC stopped working, in a packaged outdoor unit with gas heater. I pulled the cover and using schematic and multimeter poked thru the compressor wiring. I found the two wires from the 220 VAC contactor going to the compressor were hot, so why wouldn't the compressor run? Pulled that panel and found one of the factory terminals at the compressor had melted away. It had just spade slide-on connectors. Apparently, corrosion had increased the contact resistance to generate heat. Enough of a stub sticking out of the compressor that I was able to wrap and solder the wire to it. I cleaned the other terminal well and coated with silicone grease. In Atlanta and the HVAC was on the drier sunny side of the house. A good guess is the same failure happened all over the southeast since problem was with the factory design and execution. I recall I had wired the short distance from the disconnect box to HVAC input w/ NM cable inside liquid-tight flex conduit to protect it. Large overhangs on the 1-story roof so the HVAC didn't get much rain even though outside. I don't see a concern with that vs using individual wires inside the liquid-tight conduit. If an NEC violation, that sounds subjective.
I just found out about your channel and subscribed after watching a couple videos. Awesome work and thank you!
Thank You For the Power of Integrity In Working On Anything We Do. God Bless
Romex is not for wet. This was probably an issue years before the breaker started tripping, could have easily started a fire without tripping a breaker. So the answer is: Work must outlive the structure it is placed in.
I like it.
I really like that rule too. Simple and makes perfect sense. Moreover, as the new owner of a 22 year old home, I would be horrified if a bunch of electric work had to be redone by now. The structure of the home is in excellent shape, so like you said, I would expect the same from its electrical components.
I enjoyed your video but think the title is misleading since you can indeed put romex in conduit as long as you follow the rules, like dry environments (conduit in a garage assuming the size is appropriate).
I agree - it is not a complete title, given the context that included the story of deterioration of the Romex insulation in an outdoor carlon AC whip.
We have covered the rules you mentioned in two other videos.
@@abrelectric Would the area beneath a mobile home be considered a dry environment?
@GrabLifeByDaPoosy in my opinion, no. I have seen lots of romex used there however.
Great advice!!! Thanks!
I started adding type NM cable for additional circuits in my house almost 50 years ago and inspect that and superior type NMB cable that came out in the early 1980's to last over a hundred years.When I purchased my all gas home it only had 5 circuit breakers. Filled up a 40 circuit panel and had to install a sub panel. I used to put up entire front of my house with Christmas lights so ran 3 dedicated 20 amp GFCI receptacles.
Good work! Always good to have enough power without worries
Moral of this story. Don't run your electrical inside your plumbing, ; )
Hi, loved your video! What would you recommend for raceway in: a high tunnel (hoop house) that I would consider damp/wet location. I need multiple receptacles for my led lights to plug into, 3 way switches x2, other receptacles for blower, fans, water recirc pump. In a nutshell, what would you recommend to be the most watertight? Since I cannot use romex in it, is THHN about my only option for wiring? All circuits are to be 20 amp. Thanks a bunch!
I added 2 semi outdoor outlets to side of shop. I say semi cause they have carport roof over them and 1 Also walls blocking the weater and tarp over door so practically inside. Had some outdoor/direct bury wire left over and ran that through few feet of conduit on outside of wall down to outlets just to keep wire from getting bumped or knicked. Used gfci and wr outlets in outdoor enclosures. Rain can't reach them but gets humid in summer. Looks nice and should last longer than rest the building
GREAT QUESTION!!!
Thanks for sharing
Excellent video and excellent comments. Very educations. Thanks much.
Type NMB ( romex ) is never allowed in a damp or wet area. All outdoor areas are considered damp locations. We can only install say a 6' piece of NMB cable down a cement wall to protect the cable. The insulation on NMB cable never has labeling ( printing ) to identify the insulation type or guage of wire. And yes a second week appratince should be able to figure out if a solid wire is,14, 12, or 10 guage.
My house has a sunroom, and prior owner had run underground 220 for a small air conditioner. We did not use that AC, and later our HVAC had to be replaced. The fuses kept blowing from day one. A/C company finally repaced the condenser fan motor and problems stopped. Years later, we got solar and it was discoverd the HVAC circuit breaker had 2 sets of wires running from it, one set for the HVAC and another one for the sunroom AC. So the sunroom AC was decomissioned. I think the AC company got messed over and it was just an intermittent short from the sunroom run. I did run a camera in the sunroom line, and it had water in it.
It's nearly impossible for underground conduit to stay dry, if nothing else, just because of condensation.
Thank you again for the videos!
I'm replacing a 100-amp Stab lock panel with a 200-amp Square D Home Line. I pulled a homeowners permit but have a question. If I use 2-inch PCV nipple between the meter pan and the load center (using 2/0 copper) pan and panel are back-to-back. Do I need to run a ground through the nipple? does not seem Like I should, but not sure. Thanks
Of you don't have an outside main disconnect, and are going directly from the meter to the load center, you don't need a ground through that PVC nipple.
Romex is fine outside or inside of conduit inside in dry conditions. For small jobs you'd do for yourself at home, and not having to go to the expense of reels of wire used for running inside of conduit. Commercial jobs, yes, you would NOT use Romex in conduit.
My response to your question of "how long"? My time line would be "two generations". What I do for the father, when he is my younger self, should last through out his life "and" his son's. This way any change to the environment code, will be addressed at that time and by who ever now needs to improve it after a lifetime of reliable and trustable use.
When I can not use Service Romex to go up from my main panel to the attic of my garage, over to the location of my proposed sub panel in that garage and then down to the sub panel, what wire do I use to go horizontally through the 2X4 studs from my main panel to my 125 amp sub panel? I know the Service Romex sheath is to large in diameter to go through the studs (without severely compromising strength and violating Code). Thank you.
Does your service area include Arlington?
Everybody always refers to moisture, staples, exposure to sun or exposure to chemicals (paints) as a hazard to Romex.
But nobody thinks about mice, rats, squirrels and badgers. If those situations are probable, I would never NOT use conduit.
People's dogs absolutely destroy landscape wiring. In Texas,squirrels definitely damage a lot of Romex in attics.
Thank you
I agree completely about squirrels especially in Central Florida. For whatever reason they don't like 'cloth' covered romex from the 1940's. They don't touch the original wiring in an old barn, but have reeked have havic on newer wiring which I've had to protect in both metal and plastic through the years. Even have to keep bait blocks under the hoods of my vehicles. Apparently toxic chemicals can't be used in wire insulation, probably because kids may chew on it. BUT I've heard fires are dangerous to kids too.🤬
A couple of weeks ago I installed and wired in a 50/30/20 RV pedestal box for a friend of mine. since there will never be 2 RV'S at the same time, this was a great option for future RV guests. We used a 6-3wg UF wire, its flat and about an inch and a half wide. For the entire ditch it was laid right in the dirt, which is ok to do with UF wire. However to protect the wire at each end, I used 1-1/2 PVC conduit that was about 3 ft long with a 90 on each into the ditch to protect the exposed run above ground. Worked great. I have read somewhere that Romex type wire in a conduit can, if run to near capacity, build heat. In a normal situation Romex not in conduit can dissipate the heat, however if its in conduit, then that same potential heat can't escape as easily and can cause problems down the road. Thoughts?
Sounds great. With direct burial we're supposed to have 24" depth, u less under concrete.
UF is a great choice, and #6 is good for 50 amps in the 60 degree column table 310.16.
Is there a GFCI requirement for the 50 amp outdoor outlets?
Thank you!
GFI was not required unless it was to a piece of equipment or for instance a hot tub@@abrelectric RV pedestals are actually classified as "Temporary" even though 90% of these are installed and left in place for decades. The RV boxes are suitable for wet locations as long as the door is closed and there are no screws missing.
@@deej19142 awesome! Thank you
The problem was the nick in the insulation and the water.
In some states, any electrical work much beyond changing a light bulb or replacing a light fixture must be legally be performed by a licensed electrician. I think The Peoples Republics of Massachusetts and New York fall into this category. In others, like my state of Utah, I can do about anything I want though my DIY work must be able to pass inspection EVEN if trivial enough that inspection isn’t required by law. And of course, anything requiring inspection must meet code. As someone with perfectionist tendencies, I want my work to last. I hate redoing something because I was in an hurry or didn’t have the right tools or parts. And I don’t want to leave something for a future homeowner to curse me for because I didn’t do it properly.
New York definitely does NOT require this, at least not as a state-wide code rule.
In California the electrical work must be inspected but a home owner can do the work. I am not sure if changing a fixture needs a permit but …
oof, I'm in MA and did all my own outlets, light fixtures, ceiling fan and added GFCI outside, behind the porch light, didn't bother with WR, as I had regular GFCI on hand, oh well, it's protected from any direct moisture, but not humidity per se. Its a GFCI for crying out loud, point is protection, what's a little water or moisture gonna do besides maybe shorten the life. Plus I only use it for LED holiday lights.
Off topic, but I appreciate that a pro is using Ryobi power tools.
Thanks. It's stuff I use at home.
Like me, his wife probe bought him the 5-set as a present. 😂
They're ok, but little things like not having the light stay on after trigger release are annoying.
Tool snob alert!!
Ok, u can do putting 4-12/2 Romex in a 1” pvc pipe? ( for island) like 7” to wall from island!
50 years. I want it to outlast me - safe & happy owners/renters after I'm dead.
Will it hurt to run romex in conduit indoors? I am rewiring my barn,and I am running the romex inside standard steel conduit(along the wall,not inside the wall,where the studs are,because it is too difficult to remove the walls) in the room where I have my animals,from the breaker box for safety,and to make sure it's grounded.But it goes up to the ceiling in the adjoining room,so I was running the wall switch/outlet box wires in conduit up to the suspended ceiling-then above it,just running the romex open-air(without conduit) into the adjoining room along the ceiling joists to the ceiling lights/outlets which is out of reach of my animals.These are clean and dry finished rooms with walls,no moisture,that are heated and cooled(I spoil my animals).Would this be OK? Or should I strip the sheath off the wires going into the conduit?
Indoors is not a problem. You should still observe conduit fill.
From what I understand, romex can run in conduit for short distances to avoid damage to the romex, (2 or 3 feet). Of course many factors would need to be considered, no set rule.
24" for sleeving
@@abrelectric There is no length limit. If you wanted to run romex through 500' of conduit, it's not smart but it's legal.
North Carolina will allow up to 6 foot for a condenser whip for romex in a conduit!
40 years ago I put a new service panel, mast/meter socket in and rewired my house - had it inspected and I ran Romex through metal conduits in my basement and garage. Passed inspection then - would it pass now? Ohio
Possibly. Would your inspector consider the basement a Damp or Wet location?
I have a question centerpoint energy my utility company is saying that the reason half of my house has no power it's because one of the legs is out and the problem is The Wire underground. The power on half the house has been out for 3 days all of the sudden today the power cut on and off in the section that was out. If the underground wire is damaged can live electricity run through it.
No, or intermittently if it's not completely broken.
have scraps of different wire or conduit so us newbies can learn the terms. Thanks
I've never been a fan of NM cable of any kind. Rewiring and servicing are a giant pain. The possible nail or screw through the sheathing is a constant risk. Imo, you should always put NM in conduit.
Why not, then, just pull THHN?
@@abrelectric rewiring means knocking out and replacing giant chuncks of wall/ceiling/floors and taking out all those staples. During service work you often need to jiggle wires to hear/see how boxes are connected and you cannot do that with NM. The sheathing does not offer any protection at all to someone putting a screw or nail through it. Just to name a few.
Hello,
The problem i would trouble trace to (i don,t like to use the words troubleshooting) is why is there moisture/water getting into the carlon flex? When you run that from a cold location to a warm location, there will be drafts and condensation. Was the flexible raceway sealed with duct seal or any other approved sealing compound? The code intent of certain raceways is to keep liquids/gases/dust out of the raceway or enclosures . If that can,t practically be done, then wires run should have a "w" on it. And of course all raceways according to code in damp or wet locations shall be arrainged to drain. Unlike plumber's piping or their raceways is that it keeps the liquids/gases/dust inside their piping. Oposite of our electrical piping. It can be debatable about running romex or non -,metalic sheathed cable in conduit. First of all romex should be severly restricted . When i built my home from scratch, i completely wired it in EMT. IN MY OPINION ROMEX IS UNSAFE IN ANY HOME , AND I HAVE STUDIES THAT CAN PROVE IT. PERHAPS INSTEAD OF ROMEX THEN TYPE UF CABLE OR NMC SHOULD OF BEEN RUN IN THAT CARLON FLEX.
MISS PAULA WALACH-FORMER INDUSTRIAL ELECTRICIAN-UNION MEMBER IBEW-LICENSED SINCE 1972 ----STILL WORKING WITH TOOLS FOR A RAIL MASS TRANSIT FACILITY .
PS and yes , ive seen what happens in electrical splice boxes that are mounted a few inches below running rails, in which previous electricians stupidly splice wires using regular wire nuts that are not approved wet or damp locations. I,ve always insisted on using BUCHANAN ALL COPPER CRIMPED SPLICE CAPS WITH SNAP ON INSULATED CAPS. CAT #2006S & SNAP ON CAP 2007 INSULATED CAP. I,ve been using them for 51 years. They are excellent for vibrations and can be used in damp locations. Hence, when i tuck the spices into a box , i aways whenever possible stand the splices vertically so that splice cap would act as an umbrella in wet or damp locations. Rebular wire nuts corrode, even when a hack electrician wraps electrical tape around the wire nut that is listed for dry locations only.
That is excellent information, thank you!
I want have a 110 receptacle at my gate opener
I want to bury line & in case it for protection
Can i use pvc conduit using underground wire 12/2
Using underground wire, absolutely.
just get some thwn conductor. its water resistant and is why you ran the pvc conduit
24 years ago you were taught that you could put Romex in conduit except in wet or damp locations as the interior of the conduit is wet or damp.. Thus it was illegal then but I guess he stripped the Romex hoping that no one would catch the fact he needed outdoor single wires in the conduit..lol..and for 24 years the electrician was not caught..
Yep.
You can get TECK cables now. Armored and weather coated for wet and damp applications. Typically for AC and outdoor EV chargers. You can save some conduit.
All cables must be labeled
Your work should last a lifetime or longer.
If you did it to last 20 years then there was a fire or other problem and someone got hurt or died, could you sleep at night?
Always make it safer than the minimum if you can.
if i am not mistaken modern romex the conductors are rated as thhn which is not approved in a wet location
so......what IS the correct cable to run inside the flexible conduit?
In outdoor damp/wet locations, either UF cable or individual THW, MTW conductors.
Can I run romex in carlon on the inside, lets say in my garage?
Yes.
How long should a hacks work last? Easy. Once the inspection is signed off.
Tail light warranty:)
No matter how many licenses endorsements we get if we don’t work honestly
I want my work not to fail because of my workmanship .
I'd expect that residential, 120/240 volt wiring and wiring devices should have a lifespan of 50 years. For low voltage, 25 years. Leaving a stripped wire in a conduit like that is clearly not okay, for several reasons.
Romex in conduit is fine as long as you follow the rules. Conduit installed outside is considered a wet location. It is a code violation for romex to be installed outside. It doesn't matter if it is in conduit or not. Plain and simple.
I have no idea why this is so controversial in the USA. The equivalent of Romex (technically called thermoplastic-sheathed cable in many countries, using PVC insulation, with a toughened outer layer) is frequently used in plastic conduit, and I don't hear of it causing any issues. Of course you don't want to put too high a load down the same conduit, but compared to some things that are done (read directly embedded in plaster) it's really not an issue. I should add that it's only used in certain situations. For example, under suspended floors and in stud walling it it not usually in conduits. However, it's become increasingly common for such cabled to be buried in insulation material for both acoustic and thermal insulation reasons, and I would have thought that worse than conduit.
My opinion is that Code is trying to protect against installers who don't know what they're doing: undersized wire, frequently in white plumbing pipe, not correctly sealed against moisture, with grounds cut off, because they don't know what to do with them.
looks like the wire was overloaded. maybe a 12-2 that was used as a 30 amp service.
i have a question after watching your video: why doesnt romex belong in conduit?
Concern is overheating, and many of the conduit installations questioned are in damp/wet environments. Romex isn't rated for damp/wet environments.
@@abrelectric the question is why NM cable doesnt belong in conduit, not: why cant you run cable not rated for damp areas through damp areas inside of conduit that is also not damp-rated. if there's a reason not to run NM through a damp-rated conduit, it wouldnt be because NM isnt rated for damp areas, because damp-rated conduit would be protecting the NM from dampness
as far as overheating, is this an actual thing or just a problem someone dreamed up without any evidence? steel conduit is a poor thermal insulator. it conducts heat and radiates it out pretty readily. some types of conduit like PVC may be better thermal insulators, but if this is a scary problem for NM, why isnt it also a problem for regular insulated conductors?
if undamaged wires are overheating there is only one reason for it: they are too small for the load. my radical solution to that would be to use bigger wires instead of going neurotic about how heat is going to escape any conduit you run it through
i see no safety reasons not to run NM cable through damp areas inside of damp-rated conduit, or through any areas at any length inside any type of conduit
@rb-ex read the code book, article 334 and 90.4.
It isn't an issue of opinions if you want to do it correctly.
@@rb-ex The issue of romex overheating in conduit is a myth. It does not overheat because it's in conduit. That's false.
Spot the American perspective: "The house was built 25 years ago, and that's a really long time" ROFLMAO! 🤣 I'm in England, and the house I'm living in was built in 1937. The previous house I lived in was built in *18*37 (the year Victoria came to the throne). Under the wallpaper you could see the route that pipes to gaslights used to run, and under the floor you could find wires and bellcranks for the bell-pull system used to call the servants... What you call Romex is similar to what we call twin-and-earth, except there's no paper surrounding the conductors. It's what you would always run in conduit here, and "singles" would never be allowed because that would only be one layer of insulation between the conductor and the (metal) conduit, and that's a no-no. Mind you, metal conduit isn't often used these days - wires would usually be buried in the wall, inside oval plastic conduit, or if running on the surface, in plastic round conduit, or "mini trunking". Interesting to see how the other half lives!
Thank you! I love the perspectives of electrical in other countries!
If we assume the branch circuit is in a dry location, then the primary reason not to use Romex in conduit is ampacity. But we also have the problem of usage and how Romex is rated (tested). The secondary sheath on Romex limits ampacity, but as important Romex should not be confined, meaning bundled with other current carrying conductors (For example, grouping several Romex cables in a round bundle). Conduit is also a method of confinement. So, it makes sense to me that Romex in conduit should be de-rated.
Correct me if I'm wrong but romex wire its equally insulated as the wire that comes in rolls, the only difference is that romex is cover with a another layer of insulation but if you remove it it will be the exact wire,
Not by the markings on the wire. Southwire, for example, days the individual conductors are rated for 90 degrees C, but no rating for damp locations etc.
ive seen old romex with type t ( thermoplastic insulation an tw ive never seen a cable with thhn or twhn though. the paper filler stsys wet too
Well, obviously you'd want the work to last indefinitely in all cases; that goes without saying... unless you're thinking of planned obsolescence because you're worried about job security.
In conduit is too general. I got called on Romex in a stub (box upward to 8')of exposed work EMT to a switch. Heat buildup? Metal dissipates heat. If conductor heat was a problem, the Romex sheath ain't helping even in free air. I do agree that Romex in other conduit materials need their own set of rules
Work should last til the equipment fails
I like that. A long-time approach
The code just says romex ,is not allowed in wet areas
Article 334
Seen ac’s 30 years old with romex ran through greenfield let alone actual seal-tight and it be perfectly fine. But okay
It's not a problem...until it's a problem:)
@@abrelectricGreat answer!
It's still a code violation.
Every HVAC unit I ever seen has NM inside a whip lot of it is Aluminum wire.
Ewww
Can THWN be in metal underground conduit?
If you're talking individual THWN conductors, absolutely
@@abrelectricI’ve googled those wires and wasn’t able to find a good source. Where could I find these individual wires for a 14/2 set up. Thank you!
yep
@@MoparGuy1625I got mine at Lowes
@@MoparGuy1625Everywhere. It's rated THHN/THWN usually..
Might not belong...but is code compliant
My electrical work better last longer than rest the building
A life time
Arent all the conductors thhn anyway?
Personally im skeptical of the product in general - it gets stapled so tight often it cuts through the outer jacket (sometimes into conductors), at the same time if its not stapled relatively tight it's not up to code either...but.... theres plenty of it like 50 years old thats still perfectly fine, even though it does kind of seem like running extension cords everywhere... mc armored is not that much more expensive...
Anyway romex is accepted as completely fine, and has proven it lasts a long time - why would it being in conduit matter? Id think itd would have more ability too cool down inside a conduit pipe than buried in insulation....
Edit - missed the wet part. I understand the code. Still think using mc would be better in homes, so many quick connectors available to attach to jb, seems so much safer😊
25 years isn't a long time lol 😂......if you do work that endures for ever..... You just put your grand kids out of a job 😜
Good video 👍
Electrical wiring in a house should last virtually forever because unlike a vehicle the house is static and there is VERY little to no vibration. So the wiring should last forever. I see the problem with the example job being the water leak.
Electrical wiring does not last forever and has an expected lifespan of 50 years. No vibration or movement is true, but all electrical circuits generate heat which, over time, ages the insulation.
@@pld8993 The house I grew up in is now 67 years old. Will it start to see electrical problems? .....like a fire ?
Oh.....and for the record we put the equivalent of Romex in metal conduits on aircraft. ....around the landing gear where it is a very harsh environment.
@@rael5469 Fire not likely, especially if the wiring is left alone and not touched. The breakers, however, could be aged. A new breaker will trip instantly with a shoirt. An old breaker might "hang" for a second or two.
@@pld8993 "The breakers, however, could be aged."
The fuses, you mean. ;)
@@rael5469 You house caught the tail end of the fusebox era. I'd trust 167 year old fuses before I'd trust 67 year old breakers.
You can't use comes outside its a wet area
Heat
Not me doing it anyway….
Workmanship is not clearly defined very vague
Article 110
Minimum 200 years.
The video was word salad.. :) it should be re-titled to include wet location.. how about a video when it is appropriate to run romex in conduit.. :)
Romex is permissible in conduit and there is nothing wrong with using it.
Assuming it's not outdoors and the conduit fill is correct.
Or just permissible for you?
@@abrelectricit is permissible in that basement on that dry concrete wall.
Ok ... I watch way too much you tube? Last year the guy was bald, now he’s got hair? And he said romax ok in conduit, now no romax? 😢 when under no circumstances everyone else is no romax?
The title to your video is a poor way to get to how long should one's work last.
1. NM Cable is permitted installed in most raceways, not just EMT.
2. For instance, EMT. 300.18(A) exception, 334.15 (B), 358.22- 2nd paragraph, Chap 9 notes to tables.
3. NM cable is not permitted outside the building, nor in underground installation.
4. Your example could have been any wiring method - the work I could see was disgusting. NM Cable has been successfully installed in EMT millions of times across this country for decades.
5. Manufacturers for all kinds of electrical items have specification and installation instructions on their websites. Free to download. UL website has a ton of free information - such as the White Book- ll22+ pages of information. NEMA also has a long list of free information.
6. Start referencing those documents and good NEC Section numbers and your list of subscribers will grow...
Wow. Didn’t answer your own question. Change the title to storytelling
Title is VERY misleading, seems intentional, clicks generate $$. Your video is about romex in a wet location, not about romex in conduit. There are ZERO potential problems with installing NM in conduit in a dry location. Is it amateurish? In many cases, yes. Is it illegal or will it result in electrical problems down the road? No, none.
No ads on my videos. 3rd video on the topic because I keep getting the same questions.
@@abrelectric Understood, and I'm aware that it's a common question. Your video, however, specifically addresses why romex shouldn't be used in a wet location, not why it shouldn't be used in conduit. The issues you highlight have nothing to do with romex being in conduit and everything to do with it be used in wet locations. These are two completely different topics with different legal and electrical implications. In fact, the NEC requires that romex be installed in conduit in particular circumstances, 334.15. Also in your video summary you state the following: "When placed in conduit, Romex is unable to dissipate heat efficiently, which can lead to potential overheating and increased risks." This is absolutely false. Romex has no need to dissipate heat lest it overheat and pose a risk. It is regularly enveloped in insulation so being in a conduit surrounded by air is not even close to a potential overheating condition. While I applaud efforts to address common questions, answering those question with the perpetuation of false myths helps no one who is trying to understand the issue. But it does increase clicks and comments, including my own, with or without ads.
@@pld8993 that video was addressing the outdoor use of Romex. Ironically, my earlier video and the one I did recently did address Romex in conduit, only from the perspective of correct fill percentage fo the cross sectional area of romex vs. the conduit it's put in. Your codebook: Chapter 9, table 1.
Nevertheless, it’s always up to the AHJ. Where I live, romex in conduit is approved.
@@mikesteffes9999 In the NEC, romex in conduit is approved and sometimes required. Anyone that tells you it will overheat simply by being in conduit is just wrong, period. It will not.
you gave no answer yourself
the question will never be answered to anyone's satisfaction if there is no baseline
pretty bad video
just use the current code to validate