Bleeding hydroboost HBB ABS unit manually no scanner 4runner landcruiser Montero
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- čas přidán 6. 04. 2020
- follow at your own risk I show how to bleed the ABS HBB Hydrobooster commonly found on the toyota 4runner , lexus land cruiser, gx470 lx470 lx450 gs300 gs430 gs400 and mitsubishi montero (full size)
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Mate you're a star no need for expensive diagnostic equipment. Worked perfectly. Keep up the good work.
Thanks 1000 times!!! This worked so smoothly with my 98 Gs300. YOU ARE THE MAN SIR!!
My 2003 4Runner had the ABS and Brake Lights on with the high-pitched warning sound. I replaced the pump motor and bled the brakes as in this video, and it fixed my issue. Massive thanks to Wholesale Parts Express for the very informative information on all aspects of this issue and fix. Thanks!!
My ABS only comes on when hitting the brakes like 4-5 times but still don’t have a ton of brake power… still trying to figure this out
I also have an 03 with the V8 and currently have ZERO power brakes and that insanely high pitch constant beeping sound. I was just looking for the whole assembly to replace and they're hard to find new and the used ones are like $700. I may try this method first..
Awesome video, I have a toyota prado and just did a complete pump assembly swap using your video....thanks so much, very precise and easy to follow instructions
This guy really knows his stuff. See also his other video on removing a hydro brake boost assembly on these same vehicles (mine was a 4Runner). I bought a reman HBB from his wholesalepartsexpress and the whole process was easy and with good communication (and help). Received the core refund charge as promised. Recommended. Dealer wanted 4 times the price (plus labor).
Awesome video with clear instructions... Thanks a bunch mate.. my unit shit itself and took the whole unit out to remove the 12v motor of which the armature was f**ked. Replaced motor and will reinstall the complete unit following your bleed process... Cheers again 👍
Hey this is the only video on the internet that really helped me with this so thanks so much
thank you for your video, you helped me solved my brakes problem, may God bless you!
thanks so much. I'm replacing my similar cylinder on my 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Ltd. I had difficulty, but finally removed the old unit. Now getting ready to install the used new unit. Looking at the procedures, I got scared at first on bleeding the breaks, without a scanner and was going to have the car towed to my local mechanic to do the bleeding, but now, I believe I can handle it, thanks to your video. If not, I'll tow it to the shop.
How did you go im about to do the same on a Mitsi pajero ?
I installed the replacement unit and bled the brakes at the master cylinder and then each wheel brake cylinder and it worked great. The instructions were great.
AWESOME!!! I repeated these instructions several times, going through the entire cycle until I got positive feedback from the person inside the 4Runner that the brake pedal was strong.... THANK YOU SO MUCH ..... Only conundrum... Ya need to be clear on what the person inside the truck needs to do? Do they press on the pedal when turning on the key? Or release the pedal after they turn on the key? We went through the entire cycle (red-line, each caliper brake line) several times and about the 4th cycle, the person inside the truck started noticing a strong brake pedal... Still went through again (about 5 cycles total) and now I'm VERY HAPPY with the way my 4Runner test drove.... BTW, our entire assembly was out of the truck for a bout 3 hours.
We still saw some "FOAM" during the 3rd cycle, and kept going until the 'Pedal/ Key-on' wife said that she started feeling resistance on the pedal and then felt more and more drop in the pedal when the brake line screw was open as brake fluid oozed out
CAUTION - Keep an eye on the Brake Fluid Level... I made sure it never got below minimum, but have read horror stories about it going too low.....
Thank you, Really fantastic instructional post that got me out of trouble !
This video explained the bleeding process on my GX470 perfectly. Thanks for making this clear video. One thing to add is bleed the lines in the suggested order. I started the other way and had problems.
Hi there, wondering what year gx470? And if you did it after the caliper update or just a regular bleed
@@fabiandelafe5016 I have a 2004 gx470 and did just a regular bleed. I just replaced the HBB motor and used the OEM res tank to save money.
@@ronchew1581 I think I have a master cylinder failure (04 4runner) it’s the same unit as yours. Is it easy to replace this? I heard dealership wanna charge $2k plus
@@WhySooSeriouslol any info on thjis? I also have 2 2004 and they both make that accululator noise aftger caliper replacment, I think If I blled master it should go away
I just did this - for my 2004 4Runner. Shop wanted $6500 for new OEM unit plus labor. I instead sourced a tested unit from a wrecker $500 and found this video which helped finish the job. Great instructions!
our replacement motor is in the 400 range and has a full warranty but glad you resolved the issue
I have the same problem with my 4 Runner. How long have you had the part after installing it yourself?
Lmao 6500 😂
great tutourial .....clear concise to point
I took my entire assembly out to replace the accumulator motor after constant beep and stiff peddle. This worked perfect. THANKS!!!!
Did the vehicle still beep until you bled the system properly?
TwistingGrips RippingLips yes
@@stofficer2 I have the abs light and brake light on with a constant Beep (4th gen 4runner).. the brakes are still working but I’m curious do I need to replace the master cylinder or the accumulator motor?
@@WhySooSeriouslol if the pedal is super stiff then just the accumulator motor. I swapped the motor without removing the entire unit from the firewall. First replacement was faulty and really didn’t want to bleed everything again so I swapped it with the lines and everything still hooked up. It was tricky but worked
@@monkeynts mine still beep...it went off for a few mins only after a few mins drive then it came back on...what could it be? did it came on because it wasn't properly bleed? I'm so confuse I could hear the motor run 3-4 time then it stop...please help...brake worked then when the beep came back on, its stiff again smh
Great video. So appreciated.
Tanks, I just replaced the motor and this procedure worked perfect.
Great teacher!
Thanks helped a lot 🙏
Thanks ,am also good in that area
2007 FJ cruiser. Had low fluid (400k miles) I assume it sucked air into system. I bled exactly as the video and worked perfectly. I hope that you have a blessing coming your way. This video was a blessing to me. Cheers 🍻 my friend!
when installing a new unit, and first cycling the pump. will it mess the pump up on first cycle when fluid hasn’t made it to the pump yet?
Mine sounds like it’s always charging up I have never replaced any parts. I bought the truck with 250k miles my beake light ab, trac, vsc lights are all on brake fluid is at max brakes work fine . Is my abs pr brake booster going bad or should i bleed the system like you have in the video even tho i havent replaced any parts
do you need to do this if only changing the accumulator the round brass thing ,im not sure if thats whats its called?
Is it necessary to do this after a caliper refurb which was off the vehicle all day? The electric motor engages for two cycles when the key is on and then you brake when driving. Is this normal?
2001 SR5 runner 3.4 Well... I'm not sure if I messed up or not ,but I rebuilt my caliper and 1 of the pistons came out fluid everywhere of courser fixed that (bled the brakes) free of air and now my pedal is hard w/minimal stopping power. I hear the motor cycling on the master cylinder but no fluid comes from the RED line at all even when it cycles so... do you think the pump, motor or my technique is wrong ? I'm just about ready to bypass all of this nonsense and fit it with a 99 non abs system. any thoughts? thanks.
I did the whole process. Good pressure out of 3 lines. One is only a dribble. Could there be something wrong with the pump?
Great video, subscribed - I was able to
Get fluid out of the first three lines like you showed but not the last two facing the front of the car. Any advice? I’ll try again and I installed a brand new unit.
Awesome impressive superb
Dude! This is mint! Question: how do you determine whether it’s the accumulator or motor that’s failed? Or internal leakage?
hello friend I did the same thing you showed me in the video, but I feel that the pump motor starts very often when I drive it, is it normal?
Hi. Is the electric motor supposed to engage wheh you push the brakes? Is this normal?
Curious why not Dot 4 fluid, both are compatible w/eachother?
If after doing this procedure the pump doesn’t stop cycling, what does that indicate?
Great video! I have a 2003 4runner V8 and was going to replace the brake fluid by replacing the fluid in the reservoir and then bleeding the lines using a vacuum pump at each bleeder valve . Will that get the old fluid out of the Hydrobooster or do you recommend bleeding the lines at the master cylinder (like in your video) as well?
Do you offer a refurbish or rebuild for a 2003 GS300 hydro booster?
Do you by chance know the process of replacing the nitrogen tank? Or if it is even necessary to swap that..? I’m having the same issue with my car along with the screeching noise when you press the brakes and I purchased a remanufactured motor that came with the tank also
I believe the nitrogen tank - the accumulator - simply screws out. You may need a strap tool to loosen it. You also need to make sure the brake system is completely depressurised before removing it otherwise it can be dangerous. It is recommended to replace it if you are replacing the motor, as an accumulator that is not holding pressure correctly will cause the motor to run more than it should to create pressure, and ultimately destroy itself again.
At the end of this video you said "bring it back...let it rest for 15 mins....and follow the same procedure for the 4 brake lines only". Isn't that what you already did? Or do you mean go to each corner of the vehicle and do the same? Thank you for this video bc I'm about to do this to my 4Runner.
Hello there thanks for the video. Do u know if I can do the same procedure on a 2003 Lexus Is300 to remove air from the system?
The is300 is different friend
My brake line is ampty do I need to bleed the line also
I watched the video on replacing the motor. Did you replace the motor in this video? Can you replace the motor without removing the unit as you did in the motor replacement video? You mention 15 minutes was all you had it exposed for in this video, I am not sure I can get the unit out, the motor in and ready to bleed in 15 minutes. :) I will be ordering!!!
Dot 3 is spec. Dot 4 is compatible and can be mixed with Dot 3. Dot 4 has higher boiling point.
It doesn't matter if you hss 4 as long as you bleed it earlier. It has a higher boiling point and pulls more moisture over time but it might also keep a person attending to their brakes, haha.
Was this done because of a master cylinder failure?
What about bleeding all the brake lines?
Am having a problem to my break's what can I do to solve the problem
Will this work on the ls460 Lexus . Even I had the new actuator bled but the pedal is still hard like the old busted up actuator . It’s like the booster is not working . The motor does turn on but it’s rock solid hard.
Ls460 must be bled with diagnostic scanner
Good clear instructions. But shooting caustic brake fluid all over engine compartment is never a good idea. Ever.
Brake fluid isn’t caustic. You’re thinking about the brake fluid available in the 60’s up until the mid ‘90’s when they all changed the formula and went to synthetic. Try finding any brake fluid that doesn’t have synthetic printed on the outside of the bottle. It can be wiped up and cleaned off without worry. Besides, by the time your 2003 4Runner/GX470 needs this, it’s not as pristine under the hood as it once was.
thankyou
Hi I replaced the hydraulic master cylinder for a 2005 4Runner GEN three style with a same hydraulic master cylinder from a 2011 FJ cruiser. Everything was plug and play and I followed your video and the brakes worked perfectly. However the ABS, Emergency brake, and differential light all constantly remain on. Any thoughts on how to clear these lights. I already tried bleeding it more multiple times and that did not work. I also tried disconnecting the negative battery cable and tapping it on the positive and that also did not work. Thank you for your help.
Drew I’m having the same issue did you figure it out?
Also my brakes won’t work
I never figured it out. My brakes work fine and the problem was fixed, just all the lights are on.
Timmy the tool man shows how to get rid of the lights using tech stream. You might just take it somewhere to get them to reset the lights
Replaced motor and done the bleed. Still sounds like it’s got air in system
"I'm going to show you as if we changed the whole unit" So just to be sure, if I only changed the motor then I only need to do the 4 break lines? If so can I just bleed them at the wheels like I normally do?
Could you explain please why DOT4 is not good for this system? Nobody believes me
I have problem two line in abs have no oil came out
I tried doing this type of bleeding on my 2004 4runner, however it seems i only have pressure on the rear lines, neither one of the front ones has flow, what would you recommend replacing, the motor cycles normal but no pressure to the front. Thank you for any advice.
At the master or wheels?
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 I tried at wheels first, then I found your video and tried it at the master and have no pressure on either front lines, not even fluid comes out, they are dry. The rear ones have pressure and fluid.
same thing with my unit, pajero gen3.
I'm having the same problem i believe it's the master cylinder
After the red line is bled, does it matter which order you bleed the other 4 lines?
Always start at the wheel that are furthest from master brake cylinder.
when bleeding at the unit it does not matter , in other "non power head " brake systems it is important but since this unit is pressurized it is not important
Cheers
I am having ABS problem in 2002 4runner because my brake line broke and my reservoir was empty from leak for few days before I got to it. I am told I may have air in my ABS system, and is this the same procedure i should follow to bleed my ABS too?
Thank in advance
did you figure it out?
@@homeSchool-zp3gy Hard to tell, it is fine now. I filled brake oil to full, turned ignition on(not start car) and cracked right at ABS few times with all lines. Then repeated with brakes and bleed brakes as usual.
I think my problem was my ABS sensor was not bolted properly as well. They sell self bleeding screws, which I installed. Also in addition to this, take dot3 oil with you, drive on gravel and brake few times, top of oil( with only ignition), crack brake bleeders( if you have self bleeding screws this would be helpful here, or you need friend to pump brake) pump few times, and repeat. Do it on all four lines one by one. I think this would cover most of that, likely there is better way to do it, but it will cost you bleeders screw and few dot 3 oil. Good luck.
I'm having a bizarre issue where the system is charging excessively, like for a long time and more frequently than it should.
Soft-ish pedal, and shorter intervals between charging while driving.
Replaced all the brake parts, calipers, rotors, pads, lines (soft and hard line down to the wheel hub) and I've bled the absolute living shit out of my brakes. I have 2 gallons of spent fluid from bleeding, which was done with tech stream.
Would this help? I think there's either a small tiny bit of air trapped in the hydroboost system or, maybe, the high pressure cut off switch if faulty and registering complete charging too soon.
Just to update
Re- running the tech stream solenoid bleed procedure (same as slamming on the brakes at 40mph) then bleeding the brakes per the FSM, yielded more air.
Very strange on this next part.
Drained the Accumulator by stepping on the pedal 30-40x with vehicle off. You can feel the pedal get softer and softer as the system is loses pressure and empties the Accumulator.
Anyways, bled all 4 corners, same way, as in the FSM.
This time maybe a little tiny bit of wispy air... but there was something on in the fluid that bled out, some kind of liquid. It looked like oil and water mixing, little droplets of something suspended in the brake fluid. The fluid in the system was was new and this fluid from the Accumulator stuff looked much older and nasty
Did it fix your problem?
@@AR-xu2gg techstream bleed helped
I would recommend getting a bleed hose with check valve - amazon has one with a metal check valve for $10 or less. The little self bleed bottles are useless.
A few bleeds with fresh fluid, TS, the check valve, helped a lot. Could be br that they just have softer brakes given the early 2000s design. Or the boost pump res has a slight leak and needs to be rebuilt (what I think)
@@wilurbeanmine is at the point where the pedal feels low and if I double pump brakes pedal feels way firmer. Did u have this problem?
How did you clean all the fluid you let spew over wires and parts off...
You can use a can of brake cleaner from the parts store or hot soapy water and a rag
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 you can as well cover it with .. pampers :) they're going to swallow up all that brake fluid :)
Great video, I’ve found that when opening the red line I have no where near the pressure you have. Any ideas why not, I still cannot get the pump from cycling :(
for real why can't he help by replying wth...all these great common but can't help with this question which is a good question cause I have the same problem! let me know if u resolve this issue thanks
I did that exactly but my wheels were locked, I realized the pin that connected to the rod of the brake pedal was connected when the pedal was half pressed so I had to extend the rod to reach the pedal, the problem was not solved from some reason, the ABS light was still on, the car was able to move but a gentle touch on the break and it would stop but not retract back, I’m really puzzled what did I do wrong
Did you ever figure it out?
Hello, I changed the pump, did ur Instructions, and still every turning on car, and from time to time when I drive, the pump is doing this noise. What I'm doing wrong?
Did you find what is the problem?
@@sunnychandler8644 nope, it just did this noise every time I'm turning on car. On other video guy just changed pump and had the same problem. I don't know if it is a factory problem?? I don't think the car came from factory and has this noise.
Y do you fast switch off the switch when he is going to push the pedal
So the motor does not keep cycling, if it does it will cause an error and make things more difficult to accomplish
Can you tell me where you got the motor? I am having trouble finding the motor only. Thank you.
What is your year and model
@@dave8405 It is a 2003 limited with a 4.7
@@dave8405 4Runner
@@darinandwendybrockman7049 www.wholesalepartsexpress.com/product/new-4runner-gx470-abs-pump-master-cylinder-repair-electric-motor-with-gasket/
Do I have to bleed the actual breaks after replacing this unit?
you do not have to , you can if necessary only ... should be done while the engine is running and continue with single pump bleed(have your partner push and hold the pedal , be very careful in the rear has a lot of pressure and will spray the fluid everywhere -crack zerk,bleeder,line loose and allow to bleed ...close bleeder and release pedal ...move to next wheel...wheel order is standard furthest from unit to nearest -right rear ,left rear, right front, left front -do not - bleed with engine off as this will actually cause more harm than good by sucking air in !
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 is this process for 4 runners only are all trucks with abs
brake fluid on painted surface is not good
certainly , in our case it is a car we do not care so much about cosmetically ..its only purpose is mounting and testing units
If you want to neutralize it just spray the area with isopropyl alcohol
Do you have to bleed it at the wheels too? I'm change out the whole unit tomorrow.
Did you end up having to bleed at the wheels too? Or did the method in the video work fine?
@@GayPrideHD I bleed out the unit only. 7 months running strong. Hope this helps.
Great video however brake fluid is horrible on paint so said good bye to your paint please use a rag to protect your vehicle paint!😊
I bought a remanufactured ABS unit online...swapped out units, all connections...But when i try to do this bleed video, the abs unit doesnt run when ignition is in on...any help?
ты закончил?
Brake fluid everywhere. Lol🤣
Very informative. Thank you!.
What do you need to bleed after replacement of the pressure sensor?
Thnx in advance.
The pressure sensor very rarely fails also note that there are two other pressure sensors inside the module that are not serviceable with that said once you change the sensor all you need to do is pump the brake pedal about six times and it will Purge the air into the reservoir no real bleeding to speak of
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 Thank you very much!
Mine throws the C1246 code (Pressure Sensor Malfunction). This code can be caused by faulty/not correctly adjusted stop light switch. I adjusted the switch and after a couple of weeks, the code came back so I replaced the switch but the lights/code come up after a minute of driving. The scanner shows that pressure sensor voltage 9 out of 10 times doesn't change when brake pedal is depressed. The manual says "replace the pressure sensor", and I could find only one pressure sensor on 2002 - 2004.08 (mine is 2004.05).
Am I missing something?
@@nofyfb123 is that the only code?
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 Yes. First time, there also was a generic code - don't remember what it was but I read it only indicates ABS/VSC/TRAC issue but the other one (C1246) is related to a specific component.
You are one of the few people with decent videos on the Toyota hydroboost, so let me ask you a question: I want to replace my brake fluid and bleed the brakes on my 2014 FJ Cruiser, which has the hydroboost system. I have the Toyota FSM and I am comfortable with the procedure. However, I am trying to drain the old fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir by suctioning it out, then refilling it with new DOT3 fluid prior to starting the bleeding process. I can't seem to figure out how to remove the strainer in the reservoir so that I can stick a small hose in there to suction out the old fluid. I've done this on many other vacuum boost assist vehicles by prying out the strainer, but I don't see how to do it on the hydroboost reservoir. So tell me if you know, is this possible on the hydroboost reservoir (mine looks exactly like the one in your video)? Thanks in advance for any advice.
I will make and post a video of the most effective way to change the fluid shortly and post it for you
I got the same problem. Doing a bit of research it looks like you can't remove the strainer as it is built into the reservoir. No expert but it looks like you have to bleed the old fluid through the system which is a real pain.
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 I would appreciate that greatly, as I am still struggling with the most effective way to remove the old fluid from the fluid reservoir. Thus far, I cannot see any way to remove the strainer so that I can get a tiny hose into the reservoir to vacuum out as much of the old fluid as possible before starting to bleed the calipers.
@@guanghunglo3594 Thanks for your reply, this is what I was afraid of. Unless I can come up with a way to remove it, I think it will come down to either doing as you suggested or using a long, thin hypodermic needle to make a small puncture in the screen and then slowly vacuuming out as much of the fluid as possible from the reservoir into a holding container. I don't really want to do this, but it may be the only way short of pumping through the system.
@@StilettoSniper I'm going to do a brake bleed in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how I go.
K my dude help me I bleed the hole system there no foam but the brake motor ligit runs ever 10 seconds well the truck is on
Did you solve this issue?? Im having the same in my 4runner!
Is this exact same procedure for 1999 Land Cruiser?
Pretty much
Thanks. I sent you an email via your website. Can you please check that out and reply if so. I also called and left a vm. Thanks
Fault codes are c1252 and c1286.
Brooklyn mechanic brake fluid all over the place
Tela vendo otela Reparo
OMG, all that corrosive brake fluid everywhere. you must be a Ford mechanic
Will it beep until it’s bleed?
I need anwser to ur question cause mine still freaking beeping after replacing the motor smh
@@bretana7438 I figured out what worked for me, I bleed the fk out of it. And it was still beeping then I got in the car after tightening all the lines started it up drove down the block and slammed on the breaks a good 5-10 times all going about 25mph then the beeping stopped I added more brake fluid bled it one more time and haven’t had the problem since. Tell me if it worked for you.
@@monkeynts thank you mate I will definitely try that as I havent properly bleed it but I will tomorrow thanks again
@@monkeynts wait what car did u have? I have a Toyota 4runner from what people say its different so idk..and did u bleed it with car off or on?
@@bretana7438 I also have the V8 4runner, no it’s the same.
Good video but get some brake line wrenches for the love of god lol. Those poor fittings
Those fittings have seen over 3000 units
Wholesale Parts Express That’s just the Japanese quality. Still, brake line wrenches are the appropriate tool. We could argue semantics all day... otherwise great video
@@nordicpride9708 we try to make the videos as relatable to the DIYers as possible and try to use tools they would have readily available but you are right the line wrench is the way to go
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 I appreciate you taking the time to explain your approach! Not questioning your experience nor expertise. Great video and thank you
I have this problem with brake booster:
czcams.com/video/a7b8CSGRex0/video.html
Needs bleeding?
what year and model
@@wholesalepartsexpress9666 2002 4Runner, 3rd gen
What a mess. That cannot be approved by Toyota, and really bad for the paint and other parts getting coated with brake fluid.
I’d be pissed if you did this to my car Spraying brake fluid all over the engine is just lazy.
You'll be alright. It's not like it cannot be cleaned.
That’s not the point. His workman ship is down right lazy .. and brake fluid is not kind to paint work in the engine bay