When I installed our water heater, I removed the drain valve and installed a ball valve in it’s place. This allows full flow through the valve and you can fully open it by moving the handle 90°. Drains much faster.
If you haven't done this for a few years. 1)Turn power/gas off. 2) Hook up your water hose on bottom drain valve. 3) Without turning off the water supply valve, open your drain valve at bottom. This will clear out any sediment/debris that might be stuck in the drain valve. 4) Once you see a good flow of water out of the water hose, close the main valve, and let it drain. 5) Disconnect the cold side flex hose to break the vacuum (optional). If not, it will take longer to drain. 6) Once drained,reconnect the cold side flex hose to the supply valve, and let it run with the drain valve at the bottom still open. 7) Once you see clear water coming out the water hose. Shut the drain valve. Let it fill up. 8)Turn power/gas back on once heater is full.
Do not flip the T & P valve trying to help an air locked water system. Unless u are planning on replacing it anyway. T & P stands for Temperture and Pressure. The valve is designed to open when the temperature or pressure inside of ur water heater becomes to high. Opening the valve manually can cause malfunctions. Even if its in the near future.
Whoa there. If you’ve consistently done this since obtaining a new water heater, yes, do so and continue to be consistent. Especially if you have hard water. If you have not been consistently doing it, don’t. Dig deeper into the subject to find out why.
I got news for you I have been a plumber for over forty years, And unless you replace that factory drain valve on that water heater, you will not flush out any sediment whatsoever. All you will do is get a piece of lime stuck in that. But I'll have a little probably drip and then need replacing. Edit homeowners that attempt to do this by themselves usually wind up calling a plumber.
Completely the opposite… Relief valve should be tested at least once a year. Opening it to test it removes mineral deposits near the seal. Excess deposits can block the valve causing failure.
Don't listen to this guy because if you open the relief valve chances are, it's never going to stop dripping all you need to do is leave the water on force it through the heater shut it off
I knew I had city well water, but the amount of orange sludge that came out of the water heater. I hadn't drained it in years since it had clogged the first time I tried to drain it.
Where can I find the full video? Bc I heard you say “also if you’re on natural gas-“ but then it cut off and I have natural gas and need to do this project. Thank you for posting these
One thing that should be done regardless is that you turn the knob on the gas valve to off before draining to avoid damaging the burner assembly or just wasting gas to light water thats only going to be drained. I'm not sure what he was going to say but it was either that or turn the gas supply line off(yellow knob on the gas line at the bottom of the heater)
Showing shark bites looks more like a home owner job. 1 if you shut off the water relief the pressure. What's going to happen to the sediment? It settles. The drain is not the lowest point. So the settled sediment will be there. If you leave it one and just flush it for 5 to 10 minutes that slurry will drain out until it's clear.
no dont flush it once a year have it replaced under warranty every 2 years when it fails due to not flushing it out my last house was the only house i flushed it out and really it was unintentional supply line frize under the home i had the hot open in the tub to hear when it thawed and by the time i got out from under the house and in the bathroom to shut it off all the crap was in the tub
Way overdone. Do nothing other than drain off 1 gallon once a year. You don’t need to turn the water off or anything like that. Way more important than flushing the tank is replacing the anode.
I know you think this is clever, but you’re actually wrong. Let’s say you set your heater at 140. The thermostat heats water up to 140 and then shuts off. The water drops in temperature to the lower set point of the thermostat, which might be 3 degrees lower at 137 degrees. So it spends nearly its entire life heating water from 137 to 140. In my book, water that is 137 is hot. So, for 90% of its life when hot water is not being used, it’s a hot water heater.
@@master-oppressor it's like you didn't even read what I wrote. What is happening more often? Is cold water flowing in or is it just keeping the water that's already in there hot? You would have an actual point if we were talking about a tankless unit. So, unless you're washing with warm/hot water, taking a shower, washing dishes, etc more than 12 hours per day (which you aren't), the unit spends the vast majority of the day keeping hot water hot.
No no no no no. Shut down the power. Hook up the hose. Leave the cold water on so the pressure will blast whatever sediment and calcium through the discharge hose. Then shut off the cold water. Open the hot side to help relieve vacuum pressure in the tank. If it doesn’t allow much then crack one of those supply lines loose and it will open up. Let it it drain Then tighten the supply back Unhook the discharge hose and close the drain. Leave the hot in the house open. Turn on the cold supply and leave the hot on until it comes out freely with no air “spitting” to purge all the air from the tank. (This is very important with electric heaters) otherwise you will pop a heating element. Once the water is running from the faucet as normal you can flip the hot breaker back on wait an hour and you’ll have hot water again. Do not mess with the T&P valve 50/50 chance it will leak after. Plumber of 22 years just adding my knowledge.
When I installed our water heater, I removed the drain valve and installed a ball valve in it’s place. This allows full flow through the valve and you can fully open it by moving the handle 90°. Drains much faster.
If you haven't done this for a few years.
1)Turn power/gas off.
2) Hook up your water hose on bottom drain valve.
3) Without turning off the water supply valve, open your drain valve at bottom. This will clear out any sediment/debris that might be stuck in the drain valve.
4) Once you see a good flow of water out of the water hose, close the main valve, and let it drain.
5) Disconnect the cold side flex hose to break the vacuum (optional). If not, it will take longer to drain.
6) Once drained,reconnect the cold side flex hose to the supply valve, and let it run with the drain valve at the bottom still open.
7) Once you see clear water coming out the water hose. Shut the drain valve. Let it fill up.
8)Turn power/gas back on once heater is full.
You are very correct, sir
Great tip and reminder ! 👍 Thank you. Be blessed my friends 🙏
Do not use the relief valve to break the vacuum
why not mine needs to be replaced anyways as it leaks and so does the valve for the hot water in the shower
In all my years I've never seen a hot water heater...my water heater heats cold water....lol.
The manufacturer's tag on my PR valve says to open it up monthly to test it for functionality.@user-tk2mf5lt9b
Do not flip the T & P valve trying to help an air locked water system. Unless u are planning on replacing it anyway. T & P stands for Temperture and Pressure. The valve is designed to open when the temperature or pressure inside of ur water heater becomes to high. Opening the valve manually can cause malfunctions. Even if its in the near future.
Whoa there. If you’ve consistently done this since obtaining a new water heater, yes, do so and continue to be consistent. Especially if you have hard water. If you have not been consistently doing it, don’t. Dig deeper into the subject to find out why.
Thank you dad ❤
I got news for you I have been a plumber for over forty years, And unless you replace that factory drain valve on that water heater, you will not flush out any sediment whatsoever. All you will do is get a piece of lime stuck in that. But I'll have a little probably drip and then need replacing. Edit homeowners that attempt to do this by themselves usually wind up calling a plumber.
DO NOT MESS WITH THAT RELIEF VALVE ,, YOU COULD CAUSE IT TO FAIL.
Completely the opposite… Relief valve should be tested at least once a year. Opening it to test it removes mineral deposits near the seal. Excess deposits can block the valve causing failure.
@aroger. Disagree.
I was taught not to open that relief valve unless you are installing a brand new one
The more you open it, the more it will continue to leak when it’s shut.
Thanks, you Dad,you are wonderful. 😊
Don't listen to this guy because if you open the relief valve chances are, it's never going to stop dripping all you need to do is leave the water on force it through the heater shut it off
I never touch the relief valve if not absolutely necessary. Too often, they leak afterwards.
I knew I had city well water, but the amount of orange sludge that came out of the water heater. I hadn't drained it in years since it had clogged the first time I tried to drain it.
Disconnect cold and hot on top of wtr htr. Do not mess with t&p valve!
Love how it cuts off at the end lol
There was more info huh
Where can I find the full video? Bc I heard you say “also if you’re on natural gas-“ but then it cut off and I have natural gas and need to do this project. Thank you for posting these
You can google the account name. I found the full video on Instagram.
@@nightwing321 thank you!
Be careful, read on it….
they used to say
not to drain
if you didn’t do it as regular maintenance from beginning.
One thing that should be done regardless is that you turn the knob on the gas valve to off before draining to avoid damaging the burner assembly or just wasting gas to light water thats only going to be drained. I'm not sure what he was going to say but it was either that or turn the gas supply line off(yellow knob on the gas line at the bottom of the heater)
@@XxXxBartenderXxXx thank you!!
Thanks dad
The green valve plugs up and won't allow you to drain it. The relief valve will leak after you have opened it. So you'll have to replace it.
Showing shark bites looks more like a home owner job. 1 if you shut off the water relief the pressure. What's going to happen to the sediment? It settles. The drain is not the lowest point. So the settled sediment will be there. If you leave it one and just flush it for 5 to 10 minutes that slurry will drain out until it's clear.
Do you have to let the hot water in the water heater cool down first before draining or no?
Had no idea this had to be done, thank you!
Google it first…
If you’re on natural gas. You’re heckled lol. Really helpful video, jokes aside !
Never use the relief valve.
You turn the cold water on with the relief valve still open. I bet you closed that fast :-)
Ok , Scotty
he does sound like Kilmer doesn't he?
Came here to see all the CZcams plumbers cry 😂
We followed these direction last night... but now we have no hot water pressure at all, just dribbles. What djs qe so wrong!
If your water heater is in the basement, get a sump pump to pump out the water.
Good for me I don’t have to do that cause I have a tankless heater
What was that last part you were saying about natural gas?
Sounds like Scotty the car guy instead of radiator a water 💦 heater
If you're in a basement get out the sump pump and a garden hose
So, not to drain your tank in one minute.... a one minute video on how to drain your tank...
People gonna break there t&p valves
For sure
What if I have a sump pump? Could I just drain it all out into it? My boiler is literally right next to my sump pump.
Is the blue object on top a need to be on the other side?
Dang I was waiting!!
-Also, if youre on natural gas...... 👀
I just did this now and after I put all back that valve you told me to open is leaking water. 🙆♂️
He’s wrong, if you have an old water heater and you open that the corrosion that builds up around, it will make it not shut all the way
Save the water to water plants etc
Why do this in the winter?
To ice-skate on the water that freezes on the driveway/sidewalk.
I haven't drained mine for 22 years. It's gas. Should I drain it?
Hell no..don’t even touch it.
Oh look...sharkbites. typical homeowner
If you have a natural gas heater,what?
Leave your water heater alone. These guys are trying to get you stuck calling a plumber when you create a problem that didn’t exist before…
no dont flush it once a year have it replaced under warranty every 2 years when it fails due to not flushing it out my last house was the only house i flushed it out and really it was unintentional supply line frize under the home i had the hot open in the tub to hear when it thawed and by the time i got out from under the house and in the bathroom to shut it off all the crap was in the tub
Hot water needs no heater.
Way overdone. Do nothing other than drain off 1 gallon once a year. You don’t need to turn the water off or anything like that. Way more important than flushing the tank is replacing the anode.
Gas???
My hot water tank doesn't have a drain plug
Put air to it. You can drain uphill that way too.
Why would I drain my heater?
I rent so idgaf 😂
Water heater, not hot water heater.
I know you think this is clever, but you’re actually wrong. Let’s say you set your heater at 140. The thermostat heats water up to 140 and then shuts off. The water drops in temperature to the lower set point of the thermostat, which might be 3 degrees lower at 137 degrees. So it spends nearly its entire life heating water from 137 to 140. In my book, water that is 137 is hot. So, for 90% of its life when hot water is not being used, it’s a hot water heater.
@@toddrf Measure the temperature of your inlet water. It's cold.
@@master-oppressor it's like you didn't even read what I wrote. What is happening more often? Is cold water flowing in or is it just keeping the water that's already in there hot? You would have an actual point if we were talking about a tankless unit. So, unless you're washing with warm/hot water, taking a shower, washing dishes, etc more than 12 hours per day (which you aren't), the unit spends the vast majority of the day keeping hot water hot.
@@toddrf An on demand water heater says you're still wrong.
@@master-oppressor for a tank heater, I'm right. Are you mentally challenged?
Not sure I got all of that!
I thought you weren’t supposed to do that if you never did it for years
because it could cause problems?
Another comment says not to.
For the same reason you don’t flush your vehicle radiator if hasn’t been done regularly, not all the sediment will flush, & eventually it’ll clog up.
Did i just see sharkbite on the cold supply ? What kind of shit is this
Water heater not hot water heater
This is a joke, right? Coming from a man with a license who knows about 6 Master plumbers who all laughed at this
If you can’t drain by gravity, you need a pump to get the water out
Do none of this ..master plumber
Way too fast. I’m confused.
😢😂
ga
It takes 1 minute but 30 minutes to drain 😂
No no no no no.
Shut down the power.
Hook up the hose.
Leave the cold water on so the pressure will blast whatever sediment and calcium through the discharge hose.
Then shut off the cold water.
Open the hot side to help relieve vacuum pressure in the tank.
If it doesn’t allow much then crack one of those supply lines loose and it will open up.
Let it it drain
Then tighten the supply back
Unhook the discharge hose and close the drain.
Leave the hot in the house open.
Turn on the cold supply and leave the hot on until it comes out freely with no air “spitting” to purge all the air from the tank. (This is very important with electric heaters) otherwise you will pop a heating element.
Once the water is running from the faucet as normal you can flip the hot breaker back on wait an hour and you’ll have hot water again.
Do not mess with the T&P valve 50/50 chance it will leak after.
Plumber of 22 years just adding my knowledge.
The comment above you that's exactly what ended up happening. Exactly why I don't trust what these videos are saying.