The Big Diversity Issue In Fashion
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- čas přidán 9. 02. 2024
- In today's video I talk about the diversity issue in the fashion industry and why we don't see many POCs at executive roles in fashion.
In January, a survey by culture change consultancy Fashion Minority Report - which helps connect young, diverse talent with brands such as Asos and Farfetch - of 188 UK-based fashion industry professionals, found that most - 60.8% - did not believe there had been a positive shift in representation in the head offices of fashion business since 2020. More than half (50.8%) agreed that the industry is not creating change in diversity, equity and inclusion at a quick enough pace, and more than two-fifths agreed that it is harder for those from an ethnic minority background to enter the fashion industry
Federica Pantanella, founder and director of luxury fashion recruitment agency Beyond Talent, which finds diverse recruits for clients, previously worked as a fashion headhunter for more than 12 years.
She tells Drapers: “One of the biggest challenges for fashion businesses wanting to become more representative, is breaking down the systemic barriers that prevent people from diverse backgrounds from entering and succeeding in the industry. These barriers can include everything from a lack of access to education and training to unconscious biases in hiring practices.”
Despite this discouraging outlook, Pentland Brands, owner of Speedo, Berghaus, Canterbury, Ellesse and Mitre, says it is attempting to engage with a more diverse pool of perspective employees. It was shortlisted for the Diversity and Inclusion Award at the Drapers Awards 2022, for the mentoring programme it has established with The People - a UK-based organisation that helps to tackle career barriers for young people from under-represented communities.
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Its not a meritocracy, its a mirrortocracy..... jobs are given to people that resemble or look similar to those already in power
Generally, the creative industry has always been far from a meritocracy for many reasons. This is why we have the convos about nepo babies in fashion. Fashion is very much a “who you know > what you know” industry. Despite that, people statistically hire people that look like them.
There are many studies that prove this so you’re definitely right, I think I even made a point about my friends applying for jobs in the UK and not getting the jobs because they essentially didn’t look like everyone else there.
🎯 💯
I call it ‘hiring for sameness’ in my industry
great answer! I feel people often miss the economical aspects of topics like these and can't really put themselves into the shoes of a long term poor person. And its not only the future safety of a job in tech or medicine, even the costs of a creative major are more often than not higher because you need materials, more professional tech and such on top of your books. I studied in a creative field as well and was pretty much the only person there with a low class background and you'll notice that the profs and other students almost never encounter lower class people and are heavily ignorant of the circumstances that come with it, which makes it hard to even enter the field at all.
Exactly this! I experience this constantly working in the industry
It’s also very important to note that most of the diversity we see is in front facing roles (e.g stylists, models)
It tends to be the case at the same brands there is no diversity in the decision making roles (creative directors, photographers, editors, finance team etc.)
The same is true at the executive level.
I still ask myself, “Is that inherently a bad thing?”.
Like, we are told, “Racial inequality is bad,
and the result of racial discrimination and oppression!”,
but what if it’s not?
What if our the fashion industry isn’t racist or discriminatory, and just happens to not be very diverse?
@@Americansikkunt I’m really curious in what ways would these NOT be bad things? Like what positives do you see coming from the issues outlined and addressed in this video? Instead of simply playing devils advocate, could you elaborate on why you feel this way?
Also, to your point about “maybe the industry just happens to be this way,” these things aren’t just “happening.” This isn’t the Big Bang. People in positions of power make choices as to who gets these roles, and who gets to be in the decision making spaces. This isn’t just happenstance phenomena happening and *poof* somebody is there.
@@DamienMacabre The Gender Pay Gap is real,
for comparison,
but it isn’t nefarious or evidence of “patriarchal oppression” as some academics would claim.
Women happen to work less dirty/dangerous jobs,
work less hours,
and ask for fewer raises. At this point, some academics STILL insist society is to blame for “gender constructs” resulting in financial inequity,
but that is silly to attribute blame when “it just is that way”.
This makes me skeptical of other claims of oppression,
including “Western or White Beauty Standards are harmful” or “the fashion industry is discriminatory”,
and tells me inequity/inequality/disparity is not always due to or proof of oppression.
@@Americansikkunt thank you for elaborating. Just to be clear, the pay gap doesn’t pertain to who typically works tougher jobs; it is in regard to women being paid less in the same position, or when they hold the same title as their male counterparts (something that is also common in the dynamic of comparing white employees vs. POC employees). Also, your stance doesn’t acknowledge the “why” of women and POC employees typically not asking for said raises (they are often seen as “pushy,” or “ungrateful” when they do so, which could hurt their careers in the future).
Again, glad you elaborated, and I’ll just leave it at “agree to disagree.”
This is easier said than done, but POCs really need to come together in fashion and really double down to create infrastructure for themselves, even if they have to sacrifice 1-2 generations to do so. Because right now, its almost like trying to run a train on someone else's rail system
I definitely agree, but like you said it’s a lot easier said than done. It’s always better to build your own infrastructure VS trying to get people who don’t accept you to accept you in their space. However, the resources needed to build a seperate space is monumental and not something that I think will be done in my lifetime.
There’s a reason why some of the greatest designers of all time like Alexander McQueen had to work at Givenchy (even when he really started to hate it) just so he could keep the lights on at his namesake label. Even when he launched an escape plan from LVMH he had to go running to Francois Pinault to invest in his brand just so he could keep it going without needing investment from Bernard Arnault
You said exactly what everyone refuses to say, especially on the financial side of things. And it is the same on many other domains. In my area, only people with family money finish their PhDs because the scholarships are so small. Only people with family money and connections are starting bussineses. And I mean the more stable type business, if I think about creative business domains where the risk is so high and initial investment in tools and materials is so high...oh man, no chance.
Off topic "I can't imagine how people can be so uncultured" (about people thinking Nigeria is on Mars and has no internet)
So I had one college classmate, he was born and raised in the same capital city as me. He went out to visit another classmate in a smaller city. Mind you, it was around 1 hour by train. And his reaction was "and they had 2 supermarkets!!!". A smaller city in the same country!! I could not understand why he was so surprised, I asked him if he expected those city dwelers to grow tomatoes in their apartaments.
I think one of the large reasons you don't see more POC in executive roles in fashion is because there simply hasn't been enough time for current established designers to reach those positions yet. I think if you give it another 10 - 15 years, those who have been at the top for a long time will finally be replaced and you'll find more diversity before long.
IE: Lagerfield was in charge of Chanel for 36 years, and began in 1983. A lot has changed since the 80's.
So true.
I have a story to tell that would make your hair curl. Fashion is the most conservative industry going. It’s good to see Black people (men) in the industry but as a black woman you might find yourself on a hiding to nothing. Still. Yes it is a matter of making a living ultimately and women are nothing if not pragmatic when it comes to earning a living. Many cannot afford to “maybe make it”. I should add Black women in the o industry rarely make it to the top because they’re perceived as a triple threat: “Exotic” creative female. Black men however are more welcomed as they offer up a contrast to the predominantly white female upperclass cohort who love to be seen in the company of a black man it adds cool to their chic: see Andre Leon Talley and Anna Wintour .
I definitely agree, I remember when they did a stat on creative directors at major brands I don’t even think 1 was a POC woman which is actually crazy when you think about it. Meanwhile even though POC men in these roles are significantly less than white women and way less than white men. At least young POC men can look up to the likes of Pharrell Williams, Maximilian Davis, Olivier Rousteing etc and see that it’s possible. As a black woman I could easily see how one could feel like there isn’t much room in the industry for her unless you’re a model or stylist
@@FashionRoadman I was a stylist.
Interesting, I definitely see more successful black women in the industry via modelling or styling than anything else which is really messed up but an observation I’ve made working in the industry thus far. Even then, I’m sure the hurdles and hoops that need to be jumped over are monumental.
@@FashionRoadman 25 years ago. I see my white contemporaries at the time, now on the mast heads and with solid career history behind them. I barely left the traps.
@@sararichardson737 damn, sorry you went through that
I remember when Nigerian writer Chimamanda Adichie was asked by a French interviewer both if Nigerians read her books and if there were bookstores in Nigeria. Just unbelievable. Pathetic.
If people are really interested in learning about other cultures/races, then they will either find a way to come in contact with those cultures/races or do some research/reading.
Greetings from Los Angeles
I remember this! Absolutely insane
Beyond insane. I mean, really????!!!! And what was worse, I think that the French interviewer/journalist didn't even realize that she was being castigated by the Nigerian writer as she just sat there with a simple-looking smile on her face. umph....umph.....umph.
Greetings from Los Angeles@@FashionRoadman
So as you know Im also a sixth form grammar school person and just to add to what you were saying about how could we not know, I really feel like we were almost led to ignorance because literally I had multiple POC friends when I was in my state primary school and thought nothing of it, but as soon as I went into more posh education, I was immediately made aware of who my friends were and I noticed that the environment almost perpetuated the idea for us to be ignorant about the world, tho specifically Africa. I think theres a socio-economic prejudice to it, sure, but like you said, we are supposed to be the most educated people in the world, so theres really no excuse to remove these important issues from out education, especially when we are supposed to be an inclusive school. (This also goes for queer history too of course, but thats improved since I was at school whereas Black history is seemingly moving at a much slower pace). And whats more is that these are most often the kids that go into politics and high paying business roles also who then perpetuate this idea of ignorance and it becomes a cycle that is hard to break. I guess in short we can say classism feeds racism in England
I do appreciate your intelligent and not emotional approach to analyzing those issues. It's never simple and clear cut... and lol the dating comments were hilarious. Also, being in a different industry from fashion I still don't get the unpaid internships I keep hearing about, it's just exploitation and definitely for rich kids.
I really enjoyed your video.i couldn't agree more that money dictates everything in all spheres of life as someone who comes from a lower middle class background
Hi, love your content! I'm from the U.S. so I love to hear someone from across the pond talk about fashion from their perspective since London is a fashion capital itself and is close to other fashion capitals of the world Paris, Milan etc. To add to this video, for me racism is a glaring and the BIGGEST issue in the fashion industry, for ex: Edward Enninful being seated in the second row of a fashion show when he was the fashion director of British Vogue while all his white peers were seated in the front row.
Being on the cover of Vogue magazine is supposed to be earned whether by artists or models etc, that has not been the case for Vogue, US: Lil Kim, Missy Elliot, SZA, Whitney Houston, Mariah Carey have NEVER been on the COVER of American Vogue. Nicki Minaj, prior to the controversy, never being in the cover of American Vogue till 2023 is beyond disappointing. It's completely egregious and it is so obvious it is a choice despite these womens accolades, global impact in music and fashion. Vogue made and keeps making a conscious choice NOT TO have these talented, BLACK women who are MAINSTREAM on their cover.
Also, when it comes to black men being on the cover Vogue like Lebron James the magazine couldn't have missed the mark more than they did. Using racist visual propaganda as inspiration for cover, it was doomed for the beginning.Vogue depicting Lebron, a world-renowned athlete like a beast and a brute is racist plain and simple. To add insult to injury, Vogue had him SHARING the cover, when it was the first time ever for a black man to be on the cover of Vogue with him grabbing Gisele Bundchen playing to dangerous, stereotypes between black men and white women given the US history, it was despicable.
Now in 2024, Usher is on the cover of American Vogue and they not only have him sharing his cover with another white model but a random youth football league. Extremely poor execution by Vogue, why is Usher, a legendary singer and performer, forced to share his spotlight coming from sold-out Vegas residency, leading up to his Super Bowl halftime show it makes absolutely no sense. Usher in the entirety of the magazine RARELY has pictures by himself its infuriating. It gets worse, Kamala Harris. the first biracial Vice President, Vogue cover was ALSO poorly done, lackluster, it looked rushed. Simone Biles Vogue cover, they photographed her terribly, the lighting was not complimenting her skin tone, the poses they had her in dimmed her light instead of enhancing her being the best and most awarded gymnast of our time! I could go on and on.
There is a lack of creativity at American Vogue, its bland, it's boring, it DOESN'T WOW, it doesn't push the boundaries at all. When you look at the covers being published British Vogue, Vogue Arabia the covers are stunning, I'm in awe, it's clear there's an effort to be innovative. American Vogue's resistance to change, lack of inclusivity and representation both on their magazines and behind their scenes keeps it from being great, it's barely even good. For example: Vogue having their first black photographer, Tyler Mitchell, in its 126 year history in 2018 and it only because Beyonce asked for creative control of her Vogue September Issue is shameful. It's clear with all the aforementioned failures, for US Vogue have 8-time Grammy Award winning, Usher, in the BACKGROUND of his own Vogue COVER is not only CONTRADICTORY but racist and for Usher to only have ONE PICTURE BY HIMSELF (that I've seen) its evident that the leadership at American Vogue needs to change there is a clear pattern of not only RACISM but MEDIOCRITY.
Racism is the overarching factor to every explanation you gave. The talent pool has been filtered from poc due to the racist conditioning of within our ethnic groups.
As a Fashion Journalist I totally agree with all your points. As a Sierra Leonan family I get so much judgement for going into Fashion Journalism and I haven’t gotten a full time job yet in Fashion. They keep telling me to go into something else because fashion as a career isn’t stable. I love Fashion it’s been my dream since I was 12. I can write well so why give up? It’s been hard I won’t lie. Money is also a big factor I am doing a remote internship there is no way I can live in London doing an internship for free. You totally need to study Fashion Journalism.
every aspect you mentioned: access via visibility, economic viability, community/family expectation via economics, intentional media and educational misinformation, exclusionary hiring practices, are part and parcel of the modern practice of racism and capitalism.
the fact that those, who are not privileged to occupy themselves with creation and beauty only, yet still do it nevertheless, makes me appreciate them even more
To be fair, As a Londoner when I was in GCSE before going on a school trip to wales someone asked if there would be a place to charge their phone.
Before you ask…was never once implied that were going camping.
Damn, that's very poor form
Under all the layers is racism (overt, covert, "ignorance still equal racism...)
Edward did such a great job at British Vogue. Curious to see how the new editor will carry on his legacy. Saw the cover of American Vogue with Miuccia Pradaon . Still pissed off British Vogue didn't put Vivienne Westwood on the cover after her sad death......
Hey Ayo, would you be able to tag the clips from livestreams either in title or thumbnail in the future?
Like said in by someone in the comments in Britain and in France maybe is more likely that brands have POC in their team, in Italy not likely at all. And I want to point out that is also by the rules of big numbers, only now communities of non white people are starting to get the opportunity to follow a creative path, and still the numbers are very low. I am white and only had white friends all my life because that’s all I encountered. In big cities like Milan, Rome and Naples you might have a group of friends from a variety of backgrounds, elsewhere in Italy is very unlikely. So there is still a long way to go on the basic day to day level, before you see more opportunities emerge in the Italian fashion (and creative in general) industry
Also I have a question, did they not hit you with "oh, but you can speak English so well"? As an Eastern European, I got it so often...
I got hit with this a lot, it’s almost like they assume being black automatically means I shouldn’t pronounce words properly
The good thing is we now do have platforms where we can be creative and don't have to rely on others to achieve our own goals and ambitions. Of course there is a hierarchy in all of society and so meritocracy should always triumph over anything else. As someone from a lower social economic background, I can agree that having support is vital in continuing your pursuit of a creative job. But I don't think money is the reason for parents to support your passion, could it be down to a cultural difference?
I understand what you’re saying and love the discussion you had on this topic. However I do disagree with the idea of poc parents pressuring their children to avoid creative careers being that much of a factor. I think the lack of talent pool for poc is because the barriers start from arts education, I did my BA fashion at CSM and I witness so many outreach programs with a lot of poc students trying to get onto the BA programs but year after year majority of them didn’t get in. I have to stress I was in the csm building recently and I definitely see an improvement. I know that the reasons behind poc people not getting into these programs is layered but those layers are wrapped up in class, exposure and institutional racism. I did a Betc National diploma in fashion at Lewisham college, majority of us were black and yet a lot where not able to pass through the first barrier of getting in to the top art school. The reality is there is a lot more poc creatives trying to get into the fashion industry that isn’t at all reflected in the industry itself. I have some theory’s and possible solutions, I would be great to have more of a conversation with you about this topic if possible?
Would love to have more of a discussion and hear more of your thoughts
@@FashionRoadman Amazing! Thank you so much. I think it’s important for everyone to share their experience with this so hopefully we can carve out a better path for future poc creative. What’s the best way to have a conversation regarding this with you ?
@@angelicaellis not sure, depends if you want to have that discussion privately or publicly - I’d say instagram maybe
What is the fashion industry like in Nigeria? Rich resources such as fabrics and manufacturing? Bring the fashion industry to you?
In many 3⁰ world countries Internet is hard to get and really expensive, especially out of the main cities. Thankfully is getting cheaper and easier to get also with satellite connections. So I don't see strange to ask if you had connection in Nigeria
I think your statement is ignorant, even in the UK in rural areas, the internet connection is not so good.
Re: internet in Nigeria, people are funny. Even in 1989 when I went to a summer camp, the teenage girls from Maryland thought that we in Texas still rode horses to school. We said yes, we hitch them up outside the school in the morning.
Ignorant people all over - Especially in London.. People in Croydon. 20 mins from London, we’re in awe if you’d been up west..
Why don’t Asian or. African countries advocate for diversity?
Like, I understand people value “diversity and inclusion”,
but why is that only for America/Americans?
Is everyone assuming racial discrimination and oppression doesn’t exist in POC nations?
Some of them do...its called decolonizing!
@@epifanny What nations,
besides the United States and Western nations,
condemn their own Majority demographic as “oppressive”?
I don’t see any people condemning their own traditions and beliefs,
the way Americans do…