Chanel Vs The British Working Class
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- čas přidán 19. 12. 2023
- In today's video I talk about Chanel's recent Pre-Fall 2024 fashion runway show / collection by Virginie Viard. We talk about everything from Chanel's take over of Thomas Street in Manchester to a client visit to a Manchester United game against Chelsea.
Chanel taking to a street in Manchester, the post-industrial metropolis 160 miles from London in northern Britain, caused all sorts of a kerfuffle. Why? Virginie Viard revealed her own personal backstory for choosing to support the proudly edgy multi-layered working-class culture of the English town, and it included everything from its prowess in football to the Madchester music and clubbing scene (as it was famed in the ’80s and ’90s) to its historical status as the original powerhouse of textile mill manufacturing in the 19th century.
“I like small towns,” she declared. “Not like London-it’s too much like Paris. My grandfather and grand-uncle managed the football team in Lyons. My grandfather and grandmother also worked in making fabrics there.”
So there she nailed some of the unlikely multiple cross connections between her roots and the French luxury house (Lyons being her provincial hometown, the traditional supplier of haute couture fabric manufacturing), as well as to Coco Chanel herself, who apparently fell for English-made tweeds when she was involved with the Duke of Westminster and spending time at his Eaton Hall country estate outside Manchester. Then, there’s Viard’s own-generation love of Joy Division and the all the gritty music and arts energy that’s been characterizing this Northern rival to London since, well, forever.
The Northern culture immersion began with a Chanel invitation to a Manchester United v Chelsea football match the night before the show (itself a North-South gladiatorial contest). Guests were issued with personalized No 5 (as in Chanel No 5) Man U red football jerseys to cheer on the home team. Result: Man U 2, Chelsea 1. Things kicked off to an auspicious start.
Rain is the other thing Manchester’s famous for-think of L.S. Lowry’s paintings of ‘matchstick’ people bent against the weather as they trudged to work in the mills. Right on cue, it poured down for the Métiers d’ Art show. Throngs of umbrella-wielding international guests took to pub-style outdoor seats along Thomas Street, a typical red-brick neighborhood strip of bars, record shops, tattoo parlors, and independent businesses Chanel-ified with a roof covering for the night.
The Northern-girl interpretation was styled with a knowing wink to working-class ’60s-to-’80s pop culture, all side-flicked fringes and bare legs (Manchester types being nationally famed for defying the cold). Viard’s known for bringing a sense of the real and the youthful to Chanel. She played with variations on tweed suits, knee-length to A-line minis, cycle shorts under coats, Beatle caps, and chain belts. Then came the New Wave club girls, some clad in black patent leather-treated to some sort of cool rain-spattered effect-others in baby-doll dresses with bodices embellished with double-C safety-pin or vinyl-record jet embroidery.
Karl Lagerfeld instituted the Métiers d’Art shows to display the craftsmanship of the specialist couture supply-houses that Chanel owns. Lesage elaborates the embroidery, Goossens the jewelry, Lemarie the feather work, Montex the embroideries, and Barrie the Scottish cashmere knits. Viard had fun with souvenir slogan-sweaters, beanies, and scarves inspired partly by football terraces, partly by club flyer graphics.
It was all very Chanel and very Parisian, of course; she never strays that far from the house classics. There was also kind of a faithfulness to the smartness standards of Manchester women and girls. Even when money’s been tight-on factory-worker wages-being turned out well, dressing your best to go out has always been the way of this city. One way and another, it was a show that did the city proud. - VIA VOGUE RUNWAY
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Thanks for the amazing video. The news didn't really go abroad, but there was also a lot of controversy when LV and Gucci held their shows in Seoul this year. LV show blocked roads and a bridge to hold a show and Gucci threw an after party right next to an apartment and the residents ended up calling the police to keep the volume down. I don't get why it's so so hard for them to just simply appreciate the actual city rather than just extracting the visuals of it.
Speaking of not letting the local see the show,I immediately think about the one Chanel cruise show in Cuba,when they have native singers singing while local citizens can watch it from their balcony ,that is how to appreciate a culture before you decided to “inspired”by them.Also for Manchester ,there’re so so many cultural references,the architecture,history back in the Industrial Revolution,what footy gotta do with Chanel???
Luxury brands now a days are targeted to those who live paycheck to paycheck.( I mean, when did this not stop)? The moment the designer t-shirt debuted in 1987( I think if I remember it from I.D. magazine, a great British publication😊) I thought this is a f-ing joke! People buying t-shirts with a double "C" logos? But people were rocking it, even if it was a knock off Hamnett, Chanel, Ysl, Dior, etc, and I'm sorry but I'm not about to spend $$$ on a tshirt. My West Indian sensibility cannot allow that, travesty to rent space into my closets. People have to understand that the marketing and merchandising machine of fashion is already doing its job to "subconsciously seduce "with all the bells and whistles to part you from your money.
I certainly agree - hence why I’m fighting hard against the machine (at least where I can, for the audience that watches my videos) - I feel like I have a duty of care to continue to let people know that by all means buy stuff from these luxury brands if you want to but just know what you’re paying for in 2023 and beyond is not garment / fabric quality, it’s hype and marketing.
@@FashionRoadmancould you talk about brands/ independent designers that you think make pieces that are worth the money for quality they provide?
I do actually do this in the livestreams but I’m starting to realise most people don’t watch the livestreams hence why I’ve been clipping them into short form videos like this video for example. Definitely an idea for a future video
I've never heard of Machester before this, Im so glad Chanel brought this to my attention. Praise Chanel, praise capitalism, PRAISE MONEY!!
😂😂😂
'Dim your lights' honestly cracked me up!
This reminds me so much of the dynamics between expats and locals in Bali, Indonesia. They do their thing & us Indonesian natives are merely their servants in the process, they've no issue being “inspired” by us in their work or capitalising on us, but only as long as we're only on the sidelines and we're not the main characters on our own land. I've decided to start calling them “colonisers” lol. Love your videos. Fascinating as always. 🙏🩵
I think the tweed connection in Manchester is weak, as Linton mill, Chanel's main tweed supplier that makes all their incredible bouclés, is based in Carlisle.
Shout out to us Northerners !!
I honestly think luxury brands are not worth it unless it deters you from fast fashion of low quality. But luxury brands do seem to place care into their advertising in a way Shein does not. I find it fun to use them as a source of fashion history/inspiration, but it’s much cheaper to create your own personal style and using “chanel” money sparingly to curate your wardrobe. Either way, I think Chanel is perfect at using its legacy to disgusting declining quality.
I mainly talk about luxury brands because that’s what people are familiar with and it helps to generate a new audience.
The reality is that there are other designers / brands that are expensive but the price makes more sense for what you’re getting versus the legacy luxury brands (some of which have production chains similar to fast fashion brands) with dwindling quality but rapidly increasing prices. I just can’t understand the appeal of these brands anymore, a lot of the clothes are not interesting either. You have brands like Gucci & Balenciaga putting basic hoodies on the runway. Other brands like The Row charging Saville Row prices for ready to wear blazers. The whole thing is very fascinating to observe.
The issue is on my CZcams channel other designers that I talk about constantly (e.g Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Uma Wang, Simone Rocha etc.) don’t get much attention or views so I have to balance it.
Also, there are even smaller independent designers that do cool stuff. The last time I was in Antwerp I walked into a leather glove store and it’s just these people who have hand crafted gloves for generations in their family. I can assure you their stuff is better quality than any legacy luxury brand, yet it’s significantly cheaper.
Can you please tell us is the name or location of the leather gloves shop in Antwerpen? I’m planning to go there soon and I am for a while already searching for some nice new, handmade gloves. Thank you in advance and happy holidays!
@@FashionRoadmanas a fashion student I prefer saving my money and spending it to support fellow emerging fashion designers. When it comes to mainstream designers I prefer always buying second hand on grailed or eBay, I don’t mind the wear and tear, as long as it’s good quality.
I love what you said about Martine Rose!, Shes so organic, she understands culture, she is mother!
I am seriously loving the direction your channel is taking ...
I believe Chanel decided to choose a city in England using a dartboard but grubby Wigan won, so the team disapprovingly decided that since Manchester was the only other city they knew of in England it was the official winner. Fin
The only Mancunian thing about this collection is the model Karen Elson and shes from Oldham. This collection says nothing about the city, the people or the culture. Coco is turning in her grave.
Ian Curtis, among so many talented dead Mancunian artists, is turning in his grave as well.
That auld Nazi bitch can spin 'til she's a helicopter for all I care.
Brilliant takes!
When I think of Manchester, I think of the music scene & that movie 24 Hour Party People -- music of my childhood! I did wear my mother's skirt suits from the 60's in high school, thought Chanel suits were cool for old ladies but never for me. As for football culture, I'll take Arsenal! Love their colors. Your laugh is the best!
Not necessarily the same, but I used to work in a small town, and HBO was filming a show there, having many of the businesses shut down for over 2 weeks. They actually paid really well so it was worth it for these places to shut down, but if Chanel didn’t do that directly, it doesn’t make any sense?
It’s true that your accent would be associated with being from London to non-UK people but it’s difficult to distinguish the same way it’s difficult to tell by accent alone who’s from Toronto vs Vancouver, or Charleston NC v . Arizona.
Awesome video btw! :)
You’re definitely right! I actually can’t tell with a lot of USA accents apart from LA, NYC and Chicago. That’s why I don’t try to assume where someone is from based on how they sound because I know I’ll probably get it wrong.
USA is so big some of us see each state as its own country haha - especially because different states have their own laws.
Sports teams are increasing in value and with that their collaboration power is at an all time high. I think that’s the reason for the football club highlight
Great piece there, measured and calm but rightful critical consideration
First like ♥️👍🏽
Looking forward to this.
Chanel and brands like it is a working-class brand. They depend on working-class know-money people.❤
I enjoyed watching your take.
The show being hosted in Manchester speaks volumes of what the city has become, actually. It's no longer a working class city it used to be and for Channel to think that it still is and that by hosting a show in Manchester they are taping into some grassroot fantasy shows me how out of touch they are. This felt dated, tone-deaf and phony.
telling the locals to literally 'dim' their lights is so Chanel they can't handle the spotlight not being on them despite having a whole production lmao
excellent breakdown
I love your videos. Im starting to study fashion design and I have a hard time understanding or comprehending ideas and meanings behind collections or controversies like this. It opens my eyes and allows me to see a different perspective that I can apply to other things on my own. Great work!
Ngl I started looking at flights to and things to do in Manchester right after this show, but I also wonder how this supports Chanel's strategy. Does it bring them closer to reaching their strategic goals? As you noted, the football game was a rather random touch and seemed disconnected.
Money trickles up not down.
Hello from Manchester ❤
the olympics are actually costly and damaging to cities
It depends on the circumstances. The London 2012 Olympics for example caused a lot of accelerated development in London. It included the copper box arena, Olympic stadium (now West Ham’s home stadium), the London aquatic centre etc. It created economic growth over the long term but the drawback was gentrification and the displacement of a lot of working class people. Initially the cost of hosting the games in London cost more than the revenue they gained in the short term. But over the long term they’ve made a healthy profit.
West Ham literally pay £2.5 Million a year to lease the Olympic stadium and that’s just one source of income. They have since used the stadium for the rugby World Cup, athletics world championships, IAAF Diamond league + many other high profile sporting events
This is vastly different to say the last Olympics in Athens which literally decimated the Greek economy. People literally say the 2004 olympics sparked a financial crisis in Greece.
@@FashionRoadmanI currently live in Los Angeles, where we're seeing people be evicted and increased policing. I can imagine that profits can be generated from such an event coming to the city, but I wouldn't necessarily agree that the actual people of the city are the ones benefiting from that
@@hhhengethe people never benefit from events like this just new housing and maybe some new jobs
The only time it works is when public transport has a huge boost of investment like in Barcelona. I would love if Los Angeles prioritises it.
Chanel should come Derby next 😂
I wish I lived in one of those flats. Turn on all the lights. On the balcony in an LFC dressing gown, and a string vest drinking a tin of Bodi's, waiting for the bizzies whilst singing Yellow Submarine. Annoy AND confuse both the Mancs AND Chanel in one fell swoop.
On a very slightly more serious note, Manchester's GDP is about £87 Billion, whereas Chanel only pull about £13B.
Manchester was bringing attention to Chanel.
I'll dim your lights.
I think it's fucking hilarious that no one is talking about the clothes.
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compare that to the h.a x fila show and the way they handled it on thomas st. (where they didnt close the shops and pay them jack shit) it was stupid asf,
ty for the insight
Not even world cup or olympics can change the economics of a city sadly. There are a lot of olympic stadiums that are sort of abandoned now.
For a city, events are welcomed, but they should be contained somewhere and let the rest of people live and work. Also if a company would tell me to not use my balcony, I would move my entire life on my balcony, invite some friends too
Hahaha Americans like a good 'Oh my gosh, are y'all from LONDON???'
Manchester United is a team that historically had the hugest number of global supporters worldwide …due to the impact of their story…which = the ongoing highest football merch sales…football is only expanding globally as a sport… maybe they are simply brand interlopers
Man U aren't even the biggest team in their city these days
@@spuckuk7039 it’s not about how the team is performing now…more about the historical numbers of supporters
I'm disappointed I haven't seen a single bee motive in this collection...
Manchester is where coco Chanel found tweed? Wth? I absolutely call bullshit, what a reach!!! Wasn’t it SCOTLAND because coco had an affair with Hugh Grosvenor & loved the tweed fabrics his suits were made from, & the factory that produces the tweed now is on the boarder of Scotland? Yes Manchester had linen mills and a textile history BUT SO DID EVERY UK CITY, from Belfast in Northern Ireland to Leeds, Yorkshire, Scotland. Chanel to me.,,want to pull the WAGS (footballers wives and girlfriends) back to the brand by having it in this city. I currently live in Manchester and no it absolutely didn’t bring anything to it, but a tax payers bill for extra security from police, diverted traffic, delays and traffic being backed up in and around Manchester City…it was a nightmare. I’m glad people think Chanel coming to a city brings in revenue, but it literally DIDNT do anything to our economy, but create a logistical nightmare for normal working class people who can’t afford nor where allowed to view the show.
It was a bit of both, Coco Chanel had experience with tweed across many parts of the UK hence why it's very easy for Chanel to tie most places in the UK to Coco's love for tweed (very convenient eh).
@@FashionRoadman oh only super convenient to twist the narrative to fit the reasoning :)
Don't overthink it it's just a form of advertisement bring Chanel to the rest of the world they have every tear of market in there hands
And on top of all that the collection was underwhelming….
If you want to be a good journalist.. stop adding a phonetic question mark to everything you say. Welcome
Do ppl realize what Manchester is? Lol
I spit out my food when. You said Manchester is more than soccer. Even as a ⚽ fan. Still, I do not think of football first but music.
Happy to hear you are giving Amy O’Dell some fanboy love. 🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻
This is a great review. You gave me a bellyache of laughs this time. Thanks. Showing some fan-girl love 🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻