6 Gravel Bike Trends That REALLY Annoy Us!
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
- Gravel bikes seem to be taking over the world of cycling, but quite frankly, they are deeply flawed. As the discipline as boomed, it seems as though the tech hasn't been able to keep up with the level of popularity and it's left the bikes feeling a bit confused. We've rounded up all of those flaws and told you everything that we hate about gravel bikes. They are by no means perfect and there's a few things you should know before buying a gravel bike. What annoys you most about gravel bikes?
00:00 - Intro
00:56 - Gearing
03:09 - Rack Mounts
04:21 - Tyre Choice
05:31 - Lack Of Aggressive Tyres
07:11 - Too Pricey
08:51 - One Size Doesn't Fit All
10:18 - Outro
Subscribe to Cycling Weekly here: czcams.com/users/CyclingW...
More at:
Cycling Weekly: www.cyclingweekly.com
Facebook: / cyclingweekly
Instagram: / cyclingweeklymagazine
Twitter: / cyclingweekly
Email: cycling@futurenet.com
#cycling #bikes #bicycles - Sport
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
Can barely remember ever wanting higher gears… but many many times wanting to shift to a lower gear and finding no more ! 😢
3x anyone?
@@ajthmmht 2x is still enough
@@ajthmmht 1x is just straight up stupid, bad chainline and stupid gearing
Mullet drivetrain is the answer. And the SRAM AXS architecture? "This is the way"
I have a Ti bespoke monstercross rig (dam thing doesn't know WHAT it is. 100mm sid fork, wide flared drop bars, AXS dropper post...) has a Ethirteen (purple ano of course) 9-50t rear-end shifted by an axs x01 rear mech, and shifted with force brifters.
Getting turned with a Force 1x chainset running (purple ano) a 42t garburuk narrow wide chainring.
It doesn't spin out at an absurdity low speed on flat pavement or gravel, and it gives you a better than 1:1 climbing gear for technical single-track climbs.
I once did a 30 mile pavement ride with 4k of climbing to a trailhead, did a 10 mile no shit MTB trail loop (which had a 4 mile single-track flow trail decent with lots of air and a few wall rides) and rode 30 miles home on that thing.
Mullet is love, Mullet is life. (Unless you are a cadence guy... I guess... I'm a seated power masher so being "between ratios" isn't a problem)
I switched my gravel cranks to Ultegra road cranks. I rarely use low gears. Hilly ,steep climbs no man's here near Ann Arbor. Mich. Nice video
The versatility of the gravel bike is the appeal. I can hop on and off different surfaces, leaving my house on tarmac, getting on a crushed limestone rail trail, heading out to the country where I find varying degrees of light to chunky gravel on hills that can reach 15% gradient. As for tires, the Rene Herse Hurricane Ridge 48mm's are perfect for gravel while rolling smoothly over tarmac.
In addition, cassettes are easy to change if you really need lower gears.
I've bought a hybrid bike for that reason. Does the same like a gravel for half the price. Only difference is that my hybrid bike has a slightly longer wheelbase
Agreed. I'm looking at a Marin DSX1 flat bar gravel bike mainly as a timesaver. So much quicker for a ride after work to ride a bike from house instead of loading up my mountain bike and driving to the local trails. Looking for a simple bike with a 1X drivetrain and a couple of mounts for water bottles.
@@frankking439 Hydration bags are much convenient than water bottles, especially if the water bottles are stuck in the holder and hard to pull them out. N9t t9 mention they are prone to be dirty especially off-road. Nowadays I use a Hydration bag for water and the bottle holder only for drinks which I would only drink when i am stopped and for drinks i would not put in the Hydration bag due to cleaning issues (like Cola) Meanwhile the Hydration Bags straw is right at me. Only issue is that sometimes its dripping but now i have one with an open/close lever and also it has a cap which easy to handle by one hand.
You can apply the same logic to any number of other bikes, from touring, hybrid or MTB to city bikes and traditional roadsters. They will all cope with roads, dirt roads and trails, woodland paths and the like. There are so many variations of the above, that there's pretty much a bike to suit everyone without buying a so called "gravel bike". And as not two manufacturers gravel bikes are alike, clearly they can't even agree what a gravel bike should be. 😂
My gravel bike is a Giant Escape 3 hybrid converted to a 9 speed 11-36 cassette with a triple up front 48/36/26, hydraulic brakes, 45mm Pirelli Cinturato's and 790mm flat bars. All for under £1000 including the bike itself (£415 Jan. '22). I have toured on it, forest trails and various bridle paths and what have you.
My road bike, because I like a bit of comfort, is a Boardman 8.9ADV gravel bike with the original tyres removed, a Redshift stem and a set of 32's fitted. It doesn't have many attachment points, but I don't care. I live in a very hilly area so the standard gearing is ok but it wouldn't be any good at all if I loaded it up with bike packing stuff.
In other words, there's a lot of marketing shite going on and I for one haven't fallen for it. What I've done is a bit of research, decided what suits me and ignored the bike industry.
How often you use your top gear on your gravel bike?(48/11) It's 65 kmh at 110rpm. NO use outride pro racing situation
@@viliuskaminskas8946 Try riding in North Devon (UK), nothing but hills and it ain't just up, so yes it gets used ;-) Maybe not often but it does.
@@gregbrown8503 Exactly my set up except I stick with 3x7 , works great, cheap to maintain, A £4000 gravel bike with a 1x setup wouldnt be so good for me as my £400 Giant, its great
Why wouldn't the Boardman be any good loaded up I have one and it takes all my luggage just fine curious what is stopping you.
@@zedddddful nothing stopping me other than when loaded up I want Granny gears. The bike is fine for any hill unloaded, but stick around 9 kilos more on it, which is the weight of my camping kit .................
Excellent points, but the gearing misconception is also valid for road bikes, as not everyone is a young, slim and fit pro rider and might use it for long bike packing days in the Alps. So lower gearing would help road bikes as well, but I agree that for gravel bikes it becomes even more obvious of how wrong the gearing is. For the last 4 decades I always looked for the bikes with the lowest gearing and modified my current road bike from an 11-34 cassette to a MTB cassette with 11-40.
Same here, 11-40 and even 11-42 work with a RoadLink DM derailleur hanger on my RX810-specced gravel bike. And yes, with a literal mountain range on my door step, it does make a difference 😅
I keep telling this to my cycling friend but they’re too insecure to admit it is true haha
@@phil4455 triples are irrelevant now. A 3x9 has 14 independent ratios, 2x11 has 14 independent ratios. That’s why it’s dead. A 30x28 is a bigger gear than a 34x32, so big range cassettes defeat its former use as well.
Same issue here. I would love it to use a GRX groupset. As I’m an roadie I love a wide range but I couldn’t find a good option. I was transforming an old Cannondale M500 mtb frame into a gravel bike. I like mechanical groupsets cos it’s easy to maintain travelling and no need for ‘special’ tools on the road. I ended up using Shimano Sora 2x9. Shimano levers, sora FD, Alivio long cage RD with a 11-42 microshift cassette. On the front I installed an old square tapered crank and I change the rings with Zephyr 42/34 rings. This was the best for me I could get with a low budget. Its not the lightest option ofc but in need you can always walk ;). I use shorty V-brakes aswell. It works really well. In my opinion there are too many people with overgeared bikes and stuff they don’t need for the things they do with bikes. But yea, if you have the money why not.
Crying at my 9 speed 53/39 12/25
I think gravel bikes splitting into two categories of adventure bikes AND race bikes is good. It leaves both to excel at their indented use. Id rather not compromise my bike for bikepacking so that a guy on the other side of the spectrum can do gravel racing with the same machine.
what a comment. Dude you are my hero. Id love to meet you in real life.
How many bike categories do we need? There are already a plethora of racing bikes and there are already a plethora of adventure, touring, hybrid, utility and off-road bikes. Why would people want to change the basic "gravel bike" identity? What you're basically saying is that the gravel bike isn't really a super idea. Which I agree with, as there are plenty of bikes that can already fulfill that niche, and they've been available for many, many years. This is what happens when marketing teams are told the company isn't selling enough bikes... a "new" and "better" category appears. And then disappears. 🙄
mounting points for a rack in the rear are hardly "compromising" the raceability of your frame
@@another3997anyone who rides though and even the bike industry themselves have conceded that gravel bikes are basically just revamped versions of old school mountain bikes. There’s nothing wrong with this concept really, obviously they get to market and profit off a “new” thing but I think the bike industry started to get way too high end and people wanted to get back to simpler times while maybe sticking with higher end parts.
Gravel bikes are cool. But they can be very expensive as you mentioned. I rented one, did 40 miles and felt the vibration of each one of those miles in my arms for a week. The cost to buy of that one was $1700. The owner showed me a better option with a suspension for $5000. It was too much for me. I did love it, so the idea that came to mind was that I was basically riding a MTB with drop bars. And I did just that, fixed my old MTB into a “gravel” bike with drop bars. It does great! And I only spent $360 fixing it and replacing old parts.
"vibration of each one of those miles in my arms" - can also have something to do with poor core muscles or bike fitting. Beginners often support/lean their body on the handlebars with their arms straight instead of holding the handlebars relatively loosely with their arms slightly bent. With your arms stretched straight, every bump in the road hits your joints and you'll notice that for a few days. There is more “spring” in the bent arm position.
Probably overpressure tires. When I first started riding gravel that killed me. Also supporting your weight off your arms (core baby)
pfft
As others have said - the gearing issue is pretty ridiculous. With a 1x setup on a 11-42, I really had to switch down to a 36T chainring - which is great, except it obviously leads me to spinning out when I’m just using it on steeper descents or for road-riding. For a bike that solidly works as both a bikepacking/gravel bike and road-capable all-arounder, I really think a wide-range 2x is the best option.
My bike came with a 2x. I don’t do any backpacking. Mostly Road and gravel, Gravel 48/31 with 40-11 cassette. For Road is 48/31 with 34-11 cassette. I have 2 wheel set with tires rotors and cassette on each. So it goes from Road to Gravel bike in 10min or less
You could eaaily switch cassette up a 11-46, maybe 10-46 even. Also keep chainring as is or move it up to 38t.
I'm running 40t chainring, 9-52 kcnc cassette.
I never understood why people (or manufacturers) feel the need for a single chain ring setup if they're going to be riding a wide variety of terrain. There's a reason why bicycles developed two and three chain ring setups, and most people benefitted from them. Trying to cram a huge range of gearing solely on the back wheel leads to lots of compromises.
i do not understand this hype about 1by drivetrains. especially on gravel bikes that are adventure orientated a 2by is the way to go.
@@another3997 also, the 1x dinner plate cassettes are ridiculously expensive for a wear item!
Thank you for making your first point that especially for bikepacking most gravel bikes don't have low-enough gears! I couldn't agree more!
Thats why most touring bikes use triple chainrings up front. I get 17 gear inches when using the 22 on the front and 34 on the back. 17 gear inches will get you up almost anything.
@@martinhughesireland True, I also use one with an old MTB cassette on my road bike. It's worth staying away from the trend of 1x systems.
Change your chainring. Mountains out of molehills.
@@JohnDough-yr2zt If your chainring is too small, top speed downhill can be reduced. Thus, depending on the personal requirements, a smaller chainring might just do the job, but it can also be insufficient.
@@lesand5484 Depending on 1 chainring to be as good for top speed, and low gears for the steep stuff, doesnt work, it never will.
But 1000's argue every day that 1X is the only way there is.
Bicycle and parts makers HAVE to have a new system to sell pretty often, for now 1X is the big push...................After all these years with sketchy 2X shifting up front, now that 2X works perfect, shifts as fast as rear shifting? Now is the time to say it doesnt work right, too complicated, and go 1X.
I've got a gravel bike, it has brilliant gearing, all the mounting points i could ever need, mud guard mounts, pannier rack mounts, and running g one all rounds and its great on the road and the trail.. 👍
Spot On. Going for the adventure side I went for a Bombtrack Beyond, 36t 11/42, and fitted Smart Sam's 2.1. Plenty of attach points. Very happy about this setup. But found the EUR 2600 price tag a bit pricey...
Good summary. We all knew these & they will continue to be issues but oh well.....I agree about the gearing. Huge front chainrings on a lot of gravel bikes that will never see a race of any kind.
I’m so glad I still ride the original gravel bike, my atb (all-terrain-bike), a 1986 Zebra I bought new at Bicycle Habitat.
I run 1.6 Continental Contacts.
Great points particularly about gearing. I’m now on 38 26 upfront and 36 11 at the back. Tyre wires I put wtb senderos on for the winter and they are fab, although 650b only. Good point about rack mounts I can’t imagine a steep descent with no dropper and a bag stopping me gettingbehind the saddle. I do own a proper mountain bike. But from the house the gravel bike is king. Todays ride can be done on a mountain bike. But the easy trails and roads are more fun on a gravel bike
Great stuff! I hope the industry hears you!
I'm rather new to road and gravel bikes, absolutely love how they feel but am also annoyed by many of the points you made. The rather weak brakes you find typically installed also restrict the versatility of gravel bikes imo. I personally do need a sturdy and grippy brake on a 1k decline with 10% slope, esp. since the brake handles aren't quite ergonomically placed. So in my pov hydraulic brakes with 180mm discs should be far more available.
I'm a firm believer in a 2X drivetrain for gravel bikes. The 1X just doesn't have enough gears for the variety of terrain one may encounter. IMHO
Poseidon Redwood:
Cheap
Room for big, aggressive tyres
Wide range 11-48 cassette
Lots of mounts including rack mounts
Heavy stock wheels... well, I guess you can't win 'em all!
BRILLIANT I TOTALLY agree with everything you said, I live on the edge of Dartmoor and ride mostly off road on an amazing variety of terrains from dismantled mineral railways to moorland, all just outside my door, my bikes get a hammering but I never spend a fortune, my favourite bike at the moment is a used Giant Escape that I picked up for £150, I fitted drop bars and shifters, I ALWAYS fit a carrier as I always need to carry clothing/tools/ food etc and the Giant has frame mounts front and rear (as you say WHY leave them off??) it has a triple chainset (26/36/46) with a 7 speed screw on freewheel (14-28 recently replaced for £15) and I can climb anything with that and also have a decent top gear for the road, and I ALWAYS fit mudguards otherwise I would get plastered in crud much of the time and have never found a problem with using them, the Giant has loads of clearance and I use 700x38c tyres, I could go much bigger and still have room for mudguards, so yea, for me gravel bikes are an expensive fad, they wont last, Even a cheap Carrera Crossfire Hybrid from Halfords would be a better choice for me most of the time, I have tried mountain bikes but I much prefer 700c wheels for the extra pace and there are just loads of great used Hybrids about and the frame construction on even cheap Hybrids is up to the job now, I have never broken a frame
Done something similar with my Escape. They're as tough as old boots these bikes, and comfy with it. My gravel bike is a Giant Escape 3 hybrid converted to a 9 speed 11-36 cassette with a triple up front 48/36/26, hydraulic brakes, 45mm Pirelli Cinturato's and 790mm flat bars. All for under £1000 including the bike itself (£415 Jan. '22). I have toured on it, forest trails and various bridle paths and what have you.
Spot on with the rack mounts!
On tyres I find it's more of an issue with 650b tyres not having enough choice. I can get lots of lightweight options but no super tough options for commuting or bikepacking, like say Marathon Plus or Conti Contact Plus, which only come in 700c
This is on the face of it a bit of a clickbait-y list video, but is actually very nicely considered. Thanks!
650b is dead. 28 and 29 inch tires is where most frames are headed
I just got the state 4130 all road with 650b and 700c tires love the gearing because most of the time I ride slow
Try Conti Contact Urban..have a look at bicyclerollingresistance
@@Hansmeiser2008 cheers. I went with Conti Ride Tour in the end.
@@PaganiZondaF650hp thanks I'll let my 27.5-fitting frame know & just toss the whole thing in the bin.
One of the point Gravel bike better than touring/ hybrid bike is the weight usually sit between 8.5kg to 10.5kg, plus drop bar provide different handling positions and more aero, in a long distance it saves a lot of energy, and reduce chance of fatigue
In terms of mounting bolts, there are two types gravel bike, for example gravel “road” bike like Specialized Crux and Specialized Diverge which is on the touring adventure side which has as much as mounting points as touring bike
Then gear raito, 1x setup is very enough for a average 9kg ish gravel bike, although touring/ mountain bike got a lower ratio, they are also from 12kg up, so that that 3kg different makes up a lot more room for luggage if you are doing bikepacking (touring)
Tyre clearance, new disc brake road bike can usually fit up to 35mm tyres, but on rougher gravel road, 35mm is not enough unless you are pro…..plus bottom bracket of gravel bike sits a bit higher than road bike, which does a better job when you are riding on forest terrain, also the vibration absorption of the frame is much better than a road bike
I haven't yet felt to buy a dedicated gravel bike. When I'm afraid to leave the tarmac with my road bike, or winter approaches, I just put some cyclocross tires on like you said. When I want to go on trails, I take my mountainbike. And for longer tours I have my trekking bike fit with Schwalbe Marathon tour plus for rougher terrain and mounts for four saddle bags.
Or, you could have one gravel bike for road, gravel, mountain and touring uses, like I do :) 2 sets of wheels is all it takes.
What's the difference between a trekking bike and a gravel bike?
@@p504504 which is a nice setup if you don't race or do fast group rides where you want the gearing and handling of a road bike
@@Pionirish If you are logical : flat bars (or drops), 50mm+ tyres clearance, stronger tubing, longer chainstay and more relaxed position.
Here in France we used to call such elongated and sturdier road bike "randonneuse" (female hiker) before they disaperead... Only for them to come back 30-40 years later with a vengeance 😅
Good points, especially gearing and rack mounts
I built a bike to maximize riding fun on my home terrain. It looks like a gravel bike. If you did the same for where you live, your bike might NOT look like a gravel bike. I also have a vintage hardtail, a vintage road bike and a touring bike. The “gravel bike” is a daily rider for getting away on short notice.
My build was “expensive,” but the bike you want might cost more than you think. Nobody is making big money in bikes these days, especially dealers and mechanics.
Ya!!! Finally, intelligence !! Extreme low gearing, isn't offered. Which is most important system on bicycle. I added triple crank , shamano 9020 ,22 x30x40 ,to my rei adv 3.2 10spd cassette 11 to 36. And dropped weight.650b x50mm .20lbfront 23rear. Comfortable,
Very efficient. Hauls large, heavy loads. Total confidence. Gearing,I would like to play with 11x40. I've never pushed, guess some enjoy pushing. Many new bickers, get discouraged (can't get up hill ,or even crash. Enter electric market. No thanks,for me!!! 👍😁
My '16 Niner RLT RDO was hopelessly over geared. So I changed the whole damn kit. XT 11-42 cassette. GRX 810 rear mech. Praxis 32-48 front crank. The Ultegra 8020 shifters handle everything with aplomb and can even cross chain big/big with ease. Wasn't an inexpensive endeavor but she climbs like a beast now. The only thing I could ask for is more tire clearance: 40mm max. Guess I'll need the new frame now........
Bought a Treck checkpoint ALR 5 2 years ago. Had not done more than the odd mountain bike ride in the last 20 years. I’m hooked again. The bike is nothing short of awesome. It’s on the smart trainer in winter and on the road and gravel the rest of the year. Our roads are not the best. I bought an aero bike last year and had a puncture the very first ride. I’m super careful where I ride it now. The other thing is I like the rigidity of the Aluminum frame in some situations. Yes the aero is far faster, but the gravel bike does pretty much everything. The company that I looked at hiring a bike for the North coast 500 used that exact model. If it’s robust enough to be a rental and versatile enough for that ride, it can’t be bad. Got me back into cycling and I’m so grateful for that.
The Checkpoints are great bikes! I own a 2023 Trek Checkpoint ALR5. I upgraded to a Shockstop suspension stem, mounted a pannier rack (this bike still has mounts for pannier racks) and it’s one of the most versatile and comfortable bikes I’ve owned.
Good to know you are riding a bike that old. So many of us want the latest and greatest.
Well, for one I can tell a big issue is the HTII system - you are more or less forced to use cranks with very little, but expensive possibility to change the cranks gearing - e.g. a 42-26 double. I went back to square bottom bracket, so I could freely choose whatever I wanted. That's the best decision I made with my bikepacking rig.
The second best decision was to have a frame allowing to be used with both drop and flat bars (8bar tflsberg). I switched to flat bars and do not regret it at all. 55mm Rene Herse 29ers, 42-26 double with 11-40t cassette. There's nothing I can't conquer anymore.
I have the setup you are asking for. Pivot Vault, sram mullet components, 10-52 cassette, 42 single crank, with room for up to 45 tires, enve 5.6 sea road rims that will fit all sizes.
Taking notes... But agree to disagree on many levels... My main concern is why to say or supply a electronic shifting on a gravel bike... That is destined for the most harder longer and distant places to ride... When you need is not micro smooth shifting you need is a long last durable group set that has not limited battery... Except your legs... Ergo a lot of potential in gears... For many different cadences and comfort.
Di2 battery lasts for approximately 600km, your legs make it that far?
@@jonathanzappala 600km? I have been averaging around 3000km per charge on 110 model battery.
@@_MPP_ I can believe that’s just the number I have heard shimano say. I know I only charge mine about twice a year but I loose track with indoor time and when they sit.
This video can be summed up by the following: Gravel bikes are the adjustable wrench of bikes, and while it works almost everywhere, the experience is typically better with a set of wrenches i.e. bikes designed for the specific use case. Also, there aren't enough tire options.
Special tip for aggressive tyres -> Schwalbe Smart Sam is avalieble in 42mm and performes very well. The only downside is that I only found models so far that you have to use inner tubes for.
But it´s cheap and I recomend it absolutley! Just give it a try :)
I have found Teravail Rutland to be very good at getting through mud and shedding mud (have to get through fields in winter on my local routes) they come in 4 sizes in 700s from 35 to 47 👍🏼
I love Teravail and was going to mention the Rutland.
Some of these issues, like the gearing can be solved by not going for an out-of-the-box solution, but mix and matching different components. I know most people are not bike mechanics to be able to do this at home, but shouldn't be a huge deal to have it done in a bike service shop.
Maxxis Beaver 1.9" is perfect for the winter. My XC HT has 28-52 and often I click down for another gear. Even when not carrying bags and panniers
I have 50-34 & 11-34, 2x. It's a forgiving road setup on a gravel frame. I wont be able to climb trees, but whenever it's vaguely flat (mileage of "vaguely" will vary), it means i have lots of gears to play with. A 1x setup with a huge cassette is great to climb trees, but miserable whenever it's vaguely flat, as you can somehow never find the cadence that feels right.
Great point with the aggresive tires!
I just don't understand why there are no alternatives in the 40-50mm range
Grx 46-30 chainring and 11-40 cassette on my gravelbike. Installed goatlink and longer chain. Works great.
I love my gravel bike, but strongly agree with your comments about gear range and mounting points for rack, fenders, etc.
Some excellent points. For a mud tyre though, the Continental Mud King in 29 x 1.8” fits the bill but granted, it’s just about the only choice in this sector.
Pirrelli cinturato gravel M.
Herse Hurricane Ridge 48
From riding in different parts of the country i would add the gravel and terrain is very different. I have a Trek Boone CX bike, a Hook Gravel bike, and a specialized Epic XC bike. On chunky or mucky gravel the Epic is faster up to 20 MPH or so max speed and I'll drop all of the gravel bikes in these chunky conditions. The Hook is better for those faster group rides on hard pack and I have wider bars for more stability. The Boone I've got set up as an any road bike, it's good for bad pavement and does okay on hard pack and wash boards, but feels slower than the other two. I have no issues with gearing on the Hook, but I run a 2 by 11 and don't haul cargo. You can give up both sides of your gearing to run a one by on a gravel bike- do the calculations with a GRX 2 by 11 and see what you end up with.
You are spot on. Add another front sprocket or two, flat bars, chunky tyres, just like my 1990 mountain bike. Surely a gravel bike is like an SUV, it gives the looks of something that can go off road without actually being any good at it. But there is a need for less aggressive mountain bikes.
I see a big issue at brake capability: a lot of gravel bikes come with 160/160 and can be upgraded in best case to 180/160. But going up and down a lot with a fully loaded bag (in my case including my office-laptop) can show the limits of this lightweight brake setup. Also by only having PM brakes on my other bikes I dislike the flatbed standard at gravel bikes.
I didn't have most of these problems 30 years ago when I owned a Rock 'n Road bike hand-built by the late, great Bruce Gordon. Wide gearing range even though only 3x8 was available at the time, Avocet Cross-K 700x38 inverted tread tires that rolled smoothly on asphalt but gripped decently on hardpack, enough rack mounts, and the whole bike was only about $1200. I miss that bike.
$1200 in the early 90s seems a bit steep to be calling 'only' 😅
@@InnuendoXP You're probably too young to remember. $1200 back then would be worth about $2400 today. With RX600, today's mid-range components, a gravel bike goes for about $3500. And the Rock 'n Road was built to order, not off the rack.
Is 1x really so important on a gravel bike? I put together my gravel bike with an old 9 spd 2x SLX chainset I had, Sora levers, XT 11-34 cassette and an XT shadow mech. Most of the time I run with 44-36, but have run it with 44-32 and even 36-24 that originally came the chainset. With a dogfang it has been a great setup (apart from not being able to run hydraulic brakes which I can live with). I always considered myself a mountain biker but this bitsa bike has really hit the spot.
Agreed on the gearing. My gravel bike came standard with a 42T single chainring and 11-28 cassette. Considering it is also marketed as a commuter bike, I found it nonsensical. Even on a tarred road, 42-28 on a 10% gradient is bloody hard. I modified it to a 38T chainring and 11-34 cassette. A lot better, but still not easy.
You aren't kidding.
My gravel bike is an old crosser, with a 38T chain ring and an 11-51 cassette. It gets me up anything, although it's not so fast on the flats. I might split the difference and get a 40T chain ring.
Yes 1x11/12 looks clean but the range limitations cannot be denied, also when u often do steep tracks in the lowest gear the chainline is not straigt and combined with the high forces it leads to fast wear out.. In the 90s i bought a mountainbike (3x9) with Continental 26x1.75 travel that can handle up to 75 psi, i did everything with that bike, still ride it..
@@johndrawing1176 I still prefer single chainrings, though. Not so much for the clean look, but more because it simplifies the cockpit, and shifting. Re wear: I think its more a case of how thin the cassette cogs and the chain are on 12spd bikes that leads to the high wear; more than the cross-chain issues. My 8 spd chain has to cross the same lateral width as my 12spd, but it lasts 4 times the distance ridden. I think megarange 10spd like the Microshift Advent X is probably the best option in terms of durability and versatility (and cost).
Was into my MTB back in the 90s and loved it for many years. I eventually moved across to the road full time, but the 'fairly' recent gravel scene caught my eye. I now own a lovely titanium gravel bike which I bought a couple of seasons ago. I bought it thinking this will get me back into offroad riding but with the latest kit. Wrong.....This is not a go anywhere offroad bike. With the mtb I could plot any offroad route I wanted and 99% of the time I could pretty much manage the terrain. With the gravel I'm limited to say 60% of the offroad trails. The gravel bike, with the current gearing, just won't cut the steep or steep/techy stuff. Its an okay bike and enjoy the fast Towpathy/Kielder forest type gravel stuff, but its not what I expected. If I plot an offroad route I've never done before (I live next to the peaks) I can be sure that I'll be pushing some of it...Its a gravel bike and thats what its sold as I suppose. Like many more I feel as though I was marketed into something that wasn't what I was really after. I'll continue to use it but I have to be selective with routes. In hindsight (LOL)I should have gone for an MTB, circa 2000 frame/wheels and the latest hydraulic/tech stuff fitted (with barends)...fast and fun, up or down anywhere.
And that's why I built up a hardtail bike instead. Mainly my issues wasn't the gearing, it's the tires. I found gravel tires to be way too soft for any real off road use, or at least for me.
a gravel bike is more for commuting and backpacking
@@scruf153 yeah I never had the impression it was sold as doing anything more than unsealed dirt or gravel paths without having hugely compromised road performance, not so much trails and steep or technical terrain.
It's a "go anywhere" bike that's less "anywhere" than a MTB, but a fair bit quicker on the flat.
That's a case of believing the hype put out there by manufacturers and journalists who don't own or ride these bikes long term, not doing enough research, and buying the wrong tool for the job. You bought a capable ratchet set, but tried to use it to hammer a nail and cut wood.
There's a wide range in variety of gravel bikes out there. Although the gearing options are indeed pretty comparable on most of them, whether or not that is an issue is highly dependent on the sort of terrain one will be riding on.
Personally speaking, when it comes to uphill, off-road, and in particular with luggage along, if I am planning a route which is predominantly this sort of terrain, my first choice of bike wouldn't be a gravel bike. Likewise, if I know I'll only be riding on tarmac, I also wouldn't have a gravel bike as a first choice. The gravel bike shines when it comes to a healthy mix of tarmac and less strenuous off-road segments during the trip. Giving a good balance between nature and more populated areas. But it's not perfect under all circumstances. No bike fits that bill.
Having said that, pannier bikes are far from dead. There are still numerous of brands creating touring bikes with panniers. Most of these bikes are more oriented at cycling predominantly on tarmac or less complex off-road stretches. But ultimately, this makes sense. I can tell out of experience that panniers on more complex off-road tracks, simply tend to be getting in the way pretty fast. For starters, in terms of pushing a bike uphill with panniers is more cumbersome than with frame bags. I often find myself having a pannier hitting the back of my leg pushing my bike up steeper segments. And whenever there are bushes around, the panniers on the other side of the bike do create additional width.
But panniers are great for trips on tarmac only. In particular if you are just hopping from hotel to hotel with limited luggage. Everything may fit in a back pannier or two due to their large volumes.
"No, I can't go on that ride with you this weekend because when I bought my bike two years ago I didn't plan for a series of steep off-road sections that you now propose. Can't we just take a less interesting 50 mile diversion on flat main roads?"
Hutchinson Toro CX+ Tyre 700C x 47 perfect for mud even works well on wet slippery chalk on the winter southdowns
I like the handlebar on my gravelbike. I like light cross country mountainbike too, and they both are good on dirtroad/gravelroads in the forest. I got 42 cog behind on the gravelbike, and that is light enough.
WRT gearing, I'm currently building a bit of a mullet bike. Microshift advent, 11-47 dinner plates at the back with a 42 1x at the front. The intention is to do south downs way in the summer, lets see if thats enough gears 😁
I run either 36x 11-46 or 36x 9-46 because I rarely ride more than 100GI and I need the lower XC gearing for muddy rocky hills. And when it comes to tyres, I removed the 700c and have 2 650B wheelsets fitted with either XC Dry race tyres or XC Mud Race tyres.
Basically, I think a good gravel bike should be fitted with Dry XC race gearing for to be good on Tarmac and off road with fast comfortable XC tyres with low rolling resistance.
I do feel like the mounting points being curtailed to certain locations may have to do with handling tuning. If you buy a racier bike, loads in certain areas could throw balance off enough to not be safe or just not allow the handling to feel like it should. If those positions are important to you, congratulations you've narrowed your choices!
A lot of it is that these bikes are carbon and are meant to have loads in specific areas in very specific directions. If you start attaching traditional panniers, you’ve got 2 possibly mismatch loads on either side of the bike, which could create torques on your seats stays and axial forces, which are not in the direction that it was designed for. Leading to things like fatigue and cracks. Aluminum bikes, though have absolutely no excuse. It’s possible that the engineers at these companies are mostly focused on the carbon bikes because that’s what makes money and for the aluminum bike version they just don’t add them in due to laziness or conformity.
My gravel bike is a hybrid Giant Seek 0 upgraded to Alfine 11 speed IGH, Giant SLR cockpit/saddle/post, Shimano XTR trail pedals, Magura MT4s, DT Swiss rims, Shimano dynamo and supernova lights f/r. For some bling and to stop corrosion all bolts are titanium. 20t rear 39t chainring.
Agree with everything but the more aggressive tyres. Dont really need them but maybe someone else does.
However I absolutely agree with the gearing. Wouldnt be suprised if the next iteration of GRX offered bigger cassettes.
The mud tire you're looking for is the Specialized Rhombus Pro at 700x42
I dont know if you looked at bianchis gravel bikes because the one I bought around a moth ago, gr0013 comes with h.disk breaks grx 810 rear and front derailleur and the rest is grx 600 with a carbon fork and it costed 38.000 tl which is roughly 1300usd. I have rided it for around 200km and had no problems with it.
Love this video! Couldn't agree more all the points.
I am happy with my focus atlas 6.7eqp. it is ready for commuting and bike packing, touring on mixed terrain and has rags, lights and I like the shimano grx it comes with- for its range and the clutch etc. And it has a nice stable geometry and is not too sluggish. It is extremely versatile. The rags and fenders make it look less cool but tbh it makes sense for me and the way I use it. For more fun riding offroad and singletrails I prefer my mtb or my fatbike, anyway.
“tyres” Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge. Pretty dang good balance that performs well in most conditions, and they have 650b options too. Expensive but I’m a fan so far.
WTB Nano is all you need for a "mud-capable tire" on a Gravel bike. The road bike-based mech that are put on gravel bikes from Shimano and SRAM will be gummed up if you're riding in MTB-level mud where such a tire is necessary, especially if you have a front derailleur.
''Not enough low gearing?''. Simple remedy : put all these left fingers back into use to activate a good old front derailleur and this will be better too for the longevity of the chains with a better chain line.Obviously only if the operator avoids extreme cross gear . It is only necessary to re-educate the newbys.
A gravel bike will not do *everything* great, but will do better than most other options over the full range of possible use of "a bike"; yes an XC bike would be a better choice on rough and super steep terrains, but have you tried riding a century on one? Yes, a pure aero road bike will get you faster on tarmac, but have you tried riding one in the woods over roots and cobbles? A gravel bike can do all this, so you can plan for longer rides on mixed terrains with a good confidence the bike will get you through. That's big when you think about it.
i want a gravel bike because it looks so good, but i feel if i had 35c-40c tyre like in the past, i would have spun out on the lahar trail i recently rode on on my mtb hybrid that has a corner bar and rigid fork and that has 2.3 tyres. i had a couple of near misses on that mtb tyre so what more with a smaller tyre? cant ride it as fast as well even with lower pressure vs an xc tyre
I remember the times I went bikepacking on a bike with a compact (50-34) and a 11-36 cassette. More than enough for anything I did. I had a simple steel frame with Schwalbe Marathons and did both on- and off road. I'm talking about 20 years back. I never spent more than a few 100 euros on my bike and it got me everywhere I wanted. People that do slow bike packing adventures really shouldn't bother buying anything more expensive than 1000 euro in the current market, and the best is still to build one yourself based on an old steel MTB or randonneur frame.
It was hybrid bikes fifteen years ago, and they was go-all-around versatile bikes with racks, fenders and wide(er) tyres. But they was very low-end, basic proposition, no brand made hybrid bikes with full Shimano 105 or higher, components on hybrids were mish-mash of lowest group sets possible.
And here were cyclocross machines which were pure sport/race oriented bikes in UCI limits, without any additional mounting points.
Now we have this «new» gravel things, and they become more and more racy and more and more expensive.
And still there is no turing bike with high specs - gravel is for races in UCI limits now, like cyclocross.
There are plenty of gravel bikes with mounts and if you go 2x plenty of low gear options. No problem to mount mud guards provided tire size if compatible. Tires for off road mud riding are terrible for roads in the rain so I don't see this as an issue.
Go 27.5 for tyre choice and go Garbaruk for gears..
What bugs me the most about gravel is the marketing around it that has become a bit repulsive. “Gravel specific” products that are just road/mtb models with some fancy colours, the “spirit of gravel”, “party pace”, enamel mugs with some pretentious quote about adventure (ie following someone else’s gpx tours) and so on.
The bikes and the sport are great fun though.
Urban areas in general have very little knarly gravel or woodsy single track. Gravel bikes are still very popular there because it's a social thing. The shortcomings you mention like over gearing, a scarcity of rack mounts and a lack of knobby tires are because these are not needed in the urban market. Manufacturers tailor there bikes to urban buyers who comprise a much larger share of the market than adventure riders
No, manufacturers like to follow fashions and trends set by either sports or by someone's marketing department. Very rarely do manufacturers design bikes to be practical and usable by for the vast majority of people. Otherwise the vast majority of bikes would have built in lights, usable mirrors, comfortable saddles, a wider variety of riding positions, mudguards, stands and pannier racks. Not flashy paint jobs and exotic, lightweight parts that are expensive to replace.
Regarding gearing, the answer is simple. Regardless of what kind of bike it is, and how it's marketed, the reality is they're all set up anymore for racing. Because "That's what the pros use/do". Same with the (lack of) mounts. Even on the less expensive models, they are still patterned after what the pros use, despite the fact that the pros (and serious amateurs), are generally all using very expensive and high-end bikes.
Modern "endurance" geometry is considerably more aggressive than the endurance geometry of 20 years ago.
One of my gravel bikes, that was specifically marketed and designed as "not a racer", is still quite aggressive, and I run the maximum allowed amount of spacers, with a high angle stem, and that gets me in a semi-comfortable position. And it's funny that they call it "not a racer", because it's geometry almost exactly matches another company's bike, that is specifically marketed as a racing bike. One that has won many many races. None of it makes any sense. but then again, it is all just marketing.
And this is probably why the bike I ride the most is my Fairdale Weekender. It can take bigger tires than my gravel bikes, and has all of the traditional mounts. It's comfortable, and all-purpose. Not as fast as my gravel bikes, but then again I don't ride my gravel bikes as fast as they are capable of going. And not as capable off-road as a full suspension mountain bike, but I don't ride those kinds of trails anyway. If it weren't for the fact that I do like to do fast, long rides, I would just assume sell all the carbon fiber I have, and exclusively ride the Fairdale. I feel like bikes like the Weekender are all the bike most people need, and the kind of bike that most people don't even realize they're looking for. Forget about what the pros do and use. Find a bike that doesn't beat you up, does the job you need it to do, and most importantly, you just have a blast riding!
... I agree ... the bike I use for gravel "Rails to Trails is a 2012 Trek 8.6 DS w/ a 3X10 Drivetrain and 700 X 38mm tires. It has a front suspension w/ lockout and a "soft-tail" seat stays and disc brakes ... and w/ my current bi-lateral torn rotator cuffs it is my favorite bike to ride ... as it is easy on my shoulders ... Please note I will NEVER (!!!) ride a "compact double" or a "single" unless it is a "beach cruiser" ... down by the ocean side ...
The versatility of the gravel bike was its strength but became its biggest weakness. Now we are starting to get this splitting of models. We get "race" gravel bikes (backward development to a road bike with more clearance) and we get "adventure" gravel bikes (just more clearance and more fork angle, standard gravel bike). When will we get a full suspension aero TT gravel bike?
My 2019 Salsa Fargo with it's 1 X 11, 32 tooth chainring and a 11 - 42 cassette, clearance for up to 29 x 3.0 tires and loads of mounts including rack mounts, works very well for gravel adventures. Would it win races? Based on pure speed, probably not. But if you want an adventure capable drop-bar bike that will carry you through your next adventure, it's hard to beat.
The exposed mechanical aspects of gravel & "adventure bikes" reminds me of Scott heading to the South Pole with ponies then karking-it in his tent (whereas the Norwegian who got there and back took sled dogs).
I built my gravel bike with a Shimano GRX 12-speed wide-range cassette and a 34-t chainring; a dropper post; loads of mounting spots; and Continental RaceKing tires, 2.2x29 front and 2.0x29 rear. Of course, as it's a custom frame and a high-end build, it was too expensive and since it fits my 94cm inseam it definitely doesn't fit everyone...
I found the best aggressive gravel tire to be a Rhombus pro at 700×42. It has an incredible tread and great wear at close to 2000 miles on urban pavement in the Midwest, beat from weather variations, and a mix of trails and gravel.
Whilst I kind of agree with most of your points. I must point out, that I have just purchased a pair of Pirelli Cinturato gravel M tyres (40mm), which are fantastic in muddy conditions. I'm unsure whether your choices are clouded by your sponsors, but the tyres are out there.
Also, why on earth would anyone need more than 45mm tyres on a gravel bike.
Are they fast tarmac? I’m looking for a tire for my cross bike.
@@milan4ever Not noticeably so, my average speed dropped by 1.1mph according to Komoot. I'm running 36/43psi front and rear on road.
You need wider tires if your gravel roads have a lot of sand. My roads are a mix of sand and gravel. They ride much easier and faster with a 48 tire. I’ve ridden them plenty on 35-42, if they are well traveled, those work fine, if tractors/maintenance has been through, it is not a fun time on the narrower tires.
You speak from my heart, especially with point 1 and 2.
6 years ago gravel tyre selection was very poor. I'm happy to see so many options now
Most of these gripes would vanish if you'd stop conflating gravel with bikepacking, cyclocross, and commuters.
This has got to be the biggest "pander to the angry CZcams mob" vid I've ever seen. Point 1 is true where as 2-5 is just exaggeration. 2. Wrong, it's only the top end bikes that are foregoing rack mounts. Majority of bikes still have them. 3. Wrong. Vast array of tyre choice is on par with road and MTB. Always a balance between grip/puncture protection/fast rolling in all disciplines 4. Partially true. A Hybrid doesn't = a gravel bike. Totally different geo. If the point was that flat bar equivalent (e.g. Norco Search vs. Search flat bar version) then fair call. Hybrids are just terrible bikes in general, the worst of all worlds (twitchy upright bike with heavy barely functioning touring suspension). 5. Wrong again, gravel bikes (like all bikes) are on a spectrum. If anything, this point makes more sense if you replaced "gravel bike" with "road bike" as 95% of people on road race bikes are inflexible weekend warriors running 40-50mm of spacers defeating the whole purpose of the geo in the pursuit of riding "what the pros ride". Gravel bikes have meant that people are actually buying bikes that fit them.
I'm one of those people with lots of spacers under the stem. I would love to have bought a decent racing bike with a more upright position, but there isn't the same choice! Even cheap bikes out of Halfords have over-racey positions.
Very keen to see what the real difference is between a hybrid bike and a gravel bike. Is it really just the drop handlebars?
For heavens sake, the clue is in the name. If you want a bike for deep mud, buy a deep mud bike (hint: cyclo-cross). If you want a bike to climb really steep hills, buy a really steep hill bike. A gravel bike is for gravel. And on gravel, it does really, really well.
2x on a gravel bike all the way if you plan on using it on the road too. Especially if you come from a road bike background and like to keep a given cadence. 1x fine for gravel and/or your background is mainly mountain biking.
Did you consider the effect of the rolling diameter with respect to gearing. As the Mountain bike has a bigger rolling diameter then the gravel bike. Personally, I run 42T and 11-46T cassette on GRX 800 with a Garbaruk OSPW cage. Could go to a bigger cassette range
Literally all I use my gravel bike for is commuting, road, canal, then back to road, use my mountain bike for absolutely all the fun stuff
Thanks for this. I have a (newbie) question: Would it be possible (although not ideal) to have just 7 or 9 gears from super low to super high? Yes, there would be a big leap between gears. But would it be possible?
Yes if you can find the parts and the mech can handle the big shifts. There are some 11-50 9 speed cassettes out there, so top gear about 4.5x the low
@@robertsandiford6223 Thanks! If the rider is willing to adjust the speed up to down a bit to fit the gear, and not riding at the highest speed possible in the conditions, this would be a viable option, right_
@@stefanhansen5882 Well what's the goal - a super versatile drop bar bike with an older gearing system? And are we talking 1x or 2x? I have a 1x11 with 10-42 (4.2x) and 40t on the front. That works fine. Gearing has the same low end as a typical gravel bike (11-42), but the range can easily be lowered with a smaller ring on the front.
@@robertsandiford6223 Well, I'd like a bike for a long-distance biking tour, and noticed what he said at 1:14. However, I am not trying to break any records, and most of my life I had bikes with 1 or 3 gears. I don't want to spin like a frantic hamster on the long open roads. However, I also don't want to have to jump off the bike and pull it every time there is a steep incline off the pavement. And I prefer simplicity over performance. No front derailleur appeals to me. Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
@Stefan Hansen I would say cost wise you get the best deal with 2x or 3x systems. They seem to be priced based on number of gears on the back rather than total gears, so you get both range and small gaps for a similar price that way. That's probably the "optimal" for versatility.
That said I had the same use in mind with my bike, ended up with 1x just because there was a deal on, and changed out the 11-42 for a 10-42 for 10% higher top end. Have the option to move to a smaller front gear if I ever want to bring the whole thing lower.
Bear in mind that having bigger sprockets at the back means your mech has to travel further - measured in teeth, so going from 11-42 to 11-50 is 8 more teeth and generally needs a new rear mech, like a MTB mech, then you can (read: will) start running into problems with incompatibility between shifters and mech. The change I did to a 10-42 is only 1 extra tooth so within the reach of a GRX rear mech without change.
Changing front rings is comparatively easy on a 1x though. No mechs and easier to get the sizes you want (at least on mine). Maybe have to shorten the chain a bit with a chain breaker (haven't had to do that yet).
I ride on roads and don't plan to off-road more than needed if I travel - haven't found the gears too high and would travel with this or any gravel gearing on road, I think that would be just fine (30s, not very fit). I don't live in the Alps though.. could be a limit to that :)
If you want to be able to handle rough and hilly stuff, practical options IMO: buy a 2x or 3x with the range, e.g. the Trek 520 somehow has road shifters mated to mountain gears through some wizardry I don't understand, 3x9 and range out the wazoo (over 6x top vs bottom), must be lots of perfectly good similar second hand stuff out there.
Or get a 1x and and put a smaller front ring on. Pretty simple job, and not to hard to swap out again in the future if you want to tune up or down.
Or of course anything with flat handlebars gives you access MTB gearing and no issues there.
Hope that helps you out... Hardest part trying to pick something out is not being able to feel it for yourself, so obviously test riding something is an idea too :)
CX bike is my race/general use/ gravel-light MTBing bike.
Shimano GRX is 46/30 11-42
Many good points in this video.
The claim that " you don't have any gravel roads " (ie, in UK) is utter bollocks . . I live in N. W. England and know of plenty of gravel roads here and N. Wales just for starters !
Just install a drop bar on a 90s mountain bike - you got yourself a gravel bike.
Silly things, really
Great video and long overdo. The simple fact of the matter is the term "gravel bike" is about marketing and selling more bikes. It reminds me of SUV commercials where the vehicle is off-road, climbing mountains and crossing rivers. When in fact, I would suspect the vast majority of SUVs never get off the tarmac. But, humans are animals of conformity or "fitting" in. The current trend in "gravel" bikes is just that a trend and furthermore I bet most of these bikes also never get off the road. Then in a few years another supposedly unique bike will come out with another marketing name and everyone will flock to buy one. When in fact it will be something like a ridged mountain bike (revolutionary). Any ideas on what name we can call it? Maybe something like "the Swiss army bike"
Not sure I am impacted by any of these. Riding some of the biggest races in the US as well as long distance, fully-loaded bikepacking tours, I actually found the gearing provided by the original GRX groupset to be too low. I've since taken a cue from many others and swapped GRX for Ultegra (compact cranks for me) and an 11-34 cassette. Maybe for BWR Asheville I'd consider going back to GRX (12k' elevation etc.) but otherwise haven't missed the lower gearing at Unbound or other races I've participated in. (Ultegra also has the 165mm cranks I prefer.)
As for bike mounts I used to lament their absence. I have since grown to appreciate the versatility and cleanliness of a frame without them. With a through-axel mount and seatpost strap I can mount a very strong rack. My winter mudguards likewise don't require mounts and are super-firmly mounted.
Tires - well I only ride IRC so maybe that's why I haven't experienced either a lack of aggressive tread or confusion over choice. They provide a full range from road to fire-road (Boken) to gnarly gravel (Doublecross) in all sorts of sizes.
In short this video does a good job breaking down the stock setup shortcomings of a bike. For someone just starting out or considering it for commutes, etc it might apply. For the vast majority of riders who enjoy tricking out their steads over years of ownership - I don't find my gravel bike to be any more challenged than my road or MTB rigs.
The gravel bike with some customisation depending on its intended use seems to be the best of all worlds. So some of your grievances are actually strengths - depending on how the bike is to be used. There is so much choice I expect any requirement could be easily met.
Your logic applies to just about every other category of bicycle too. Drop bars on an MTB or a flat bar hybrid, or a touring bike etc.
What does this guy say? With the Shimano GRX 812 rear derailleur are 11 /42 cassettes possible!
812 is the 1x version. It actually has a lower total capacity than the 2x 810 (31 vs 40). Bigger casette, but lower gear range than a 2x bike.
I think the first gearing observation is highly dependent on the sort of gravel or hills you are riding. I do agree that gearing for many riders is somewhat tall - but it really depends on how strong a rider you are, how well you climb hills, and if you are going 1X or 2X - A crankset (or chainring on a 1X) is easy to change.
The same basic comment goes for gravel tires, they can, and should, be tailored and selected by the user for the types of dirt, mud and gravel you see. Tires are easy to change;
or run two sets of wheels - its just that easy. Its not a detraction, its literally what makes a gravel bike so damn versatile, guys !
and yes, I agree there are NOT many aggressive tread tires out there that would fit most gravel bikes (between 38 and 55 I'd say), which is really annoying.
Not that easy.
I was looking to get a 40/24 road crankset, that covers all my needs for road and gravel hill climbing, but the market don't have the one. Now I have to assembly this chainring combo from several niche suppliers of cranks, spiders and chainrings from all over the Europe which is first time consuming second quite pricey: the whole set will cost me no less then 300 Euros.
@@atticushexcel9567 But I don't need the third ring) I am more than happy with two))
@@atticushexcel9567 The GRX 31/48 crankset with 2X isnt a bad attempt, I stuck a 11x40 cassette on the back and that is a pretty darned good low gear ratio.
My last mt bike with 2X, a 2012 KONA, I put a 22 x 36 crankset on it, with 11x36 on the back, that 22 let it climb as steep as I could hang on while going up.
I've got 24-44 chainrings and 13-36 cassette. You see I have little interest in speed. Gravel tires and road tires both suit. It also takes racks and panniers for legit road touring. Rando anyone? Got that covered too! Topstone aluminum frame. Supposed to be an adventure bike.
Also, my sram Rival setup is 11-44 works absolutely perfectly
i totally agree with the gearing. What else would you like to ride on your gravel bikepacking adventure than a delicate carbon frame bike with a 1by groupset and poor gear ratio...
And missing out on rear rack mounting options is a pain too. Whoever ridden a fully packet ass-rocket, tangling left and right does understand the value of a propper bike panier mounted stable on both sides. Soo much marketing bullshit going on with gravel, they‘ll kill the segment. And then touring bikes will come back for sure 😂
My BMC URS has SRAM gearing and is 38t by 10-52t
It seems like the creator wants a bike that can do everything and then ends up complaining that it is a half way house since there is always a bike that does it better. The nice things with gravel bikes is that you can spec them to be best at your riding. If you want a bikepacker bike, go for a bike that has that focus. if you want a race-oriented gravel bike - go for that, if you want an xc oriented gravel bike - go for that. don't buy a bike that tries to do everything, because that'll leave you with a bike that is master of nothing.